Rear Ballast Weight DIY Build

[Bearsixty7]

I was pouring a slab and figured to have excess concrete so I had the ballast box built and ready. I wanted something that didn't stick back far or wider then the tractor for manuevering in tight spaces.
I calculated the dimensions and was aiming for 1,000 lbs (~50% of what my loader lift capacity is). I got close enough for me .
To me the ideal weight of the rear ballast should be 50-70% of your loader lift capacity.

Your tractor will lift a lot with no ballast, so with 50% or more on the 3pt, you can lift all your loader can handle and the rear tires will stay planted.

 

[garry1p]

I was planning to add ballast more to prevent roll over, I seldom have much weight in the FEL but don't like the tipsy feeling I get on a shallow side hill.
Now I'm not sure if I have the right idea or is it the same principal.

 

[MTGreen]

I was planning to add ballast more to prevent roll over, I seldom have much weight in the FEL but don't like the tipsy feeling I get on a shallow side hill.
Now I'm not sure if I have the right idea or is it the same principal.

Some ballast is often a good idea -might also look at spacing the tires out & filled tires

 

[EddieWalker]

I was pouring a slab and figured to have excess concrete so I had the ballast box built and ready. I wanted something that didn't stick back far or wider then the tractor for manuevering in tight spaces.
I calculated the dimensions and was aiming for 1,000 lbs (~50% of what my loader lift capacity is). I got close enough for me .
To me the ideal weight of the rear ballast should be 50-70% of your loader lift capacity.

Your tractor will lift a lot with no ballast, so with 50% or more on the 3pt, you can lift all your loader can handle and the rear tires will stay planted.

View attachment 842151View attachment 842152 View attachment 842153

Thanks for the pictures. I didn't think about having a way to lift up the ballast and move it around when it's not on the tractor. Having the rebar sticking out like that would make it easy to pick up with a chain and move it out of the way if I needed to!!!

 

[Bearsixty7]

Thanks for the pictures. I didn't think about having a way to lift up the ballast and move it around when it's not on the tractor. Having the rebar sticking out like that would make it easy to pick up with a chain and move it out of the way if I needed to!!!

You're welcome.
I do recommend spending more time placing and SECURING the PVC pieces for tool holders (Shovel, pitchfork, rake, etc). I last minute threw in 2 scrap pieces that were too short and didn't secure them. I had to position them and hold them in place while the concrete went in. I should have had pieces long enough to go to the bottom board and secured them in place so that rain water would just run out the bottom. One day I'll use a mason bit with an extension and drill them on through the bottom.
I also had planned to install a small board in the form with a 45 degree bevel by the lower 3pt links to provide hookup clearance in the concrete. I forgot and had to use a mason chisel to remove some concrete.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've seen where some people put tubes in their ballast to hold shovels, or something else. What do you use the shovel for? Do you haul stuff around in the ballast box? It's been my experience that if I need a shovel for something, it's part of a bigger project like fencing, and I have a big load of stuff that I'm hauling to where I'm working.

It would be simple to add some PVC tubes to a ballast box, I just don't see what I would use it for.

 

[old and tired]

...I just don't see what I would use it for.

I removed the tubes from mine, wasn't worth it. I didn't put a drain in the tubes, so they just filled with water. Also found a manhole cover that fit perfectly on the top of the 55 gallon drum that I used.

I'm thinking of modifying mine to set out even further back away from the tractor to increase the effect of the ballast. I need to relocate the 3PH pins anyway, so trying to kill 2 birds with one welding job.

 

[CADplans]

Thanks for the pictures. I didn't think about having a way to lift up the ballast and move it around when it's not on the tractor. Having the rebar sticking out like that would make it easy to pick up with a chain and move it out of the way if I needed to!!!

Luckily, the guy that built my welding table thought ahead and added a lifting loop.
That top is double 1/4" steel sheet, plus structure,,
my estimate is that the top weighs 700 pounds.

I can move it with forks, (my 48" forks reach beyond the center of the 6 foot width/length)
but, lifting off that loop on the side is MUCH safer!!

The legs are kinda flimsy,, probably only 150 pounds total,, but, it survives!!

 

[Bearsixty7]

I've seen where some people put tubes in their ballast to hold shovels, or something else. What do you use the shovel for? Do you haul stuff around in the ballast box? It's been my experience that if I need a shovel for something, it's part of a bigger project like fencing, and I have a big load of stuff that I'm hauling to where I'm working.

It would be simple to add some PVC tubes to a ballast box, I just don't see what I would use it for.

I haven't used the ballast box a lot, I usually have the backhoe or boxblade on. The few times I did, I carried a square shovel in the ballast box for the material cleanup or fine tuning I couldn't do with the loader bucket.
The rebar loop also has served as a tie down for my chainsaw in it's carry case when moving some trees/brush with the grapple.

 

[sixdogs]

I've weighted a lot of tractors and have found rear wheel weights are the best choice because it leaves the three-point open and distributes the weight better. The price is high but these days many weights cross over and fit many other brands. This matters because at auctions or on resale, odd branded weights bring way less money. You can somewhat search this online from the places that sell knock-off weights and it's increasingly common that weights cross-fit. Used weights are often hard to sell.

The counter weight works but I've never felt comfortable with the weight on the rear or hydraulics. I may have used a heavy implement on the rear as a stopgap while I locate used weights, however.

Loaded rears don't work for me. First, they all corrode the wheels and the weight makes trailering difficult or impossible without bigger equipment.
Here's a picture thread I did on removing "non-corrosive" windshield washer fluid from loaded rears.

Think washer fluid in rear tires won't corrode?

I bought a used tractor with rears loaded with windshield washer fluid. Granted, it's not calcium chloride and most people think it doesn't corrode but here are some rusty pics. Tires were loaded for "a couple" years I was told and look at the rot. Luckily, I caught it in time and dumped the...

www.tractorbynet.com

My tire shop will no longer change beet juice loaded tires from rears so I'll add that. I don't know why. Also, I've decided buying a tractor with loaded rears doesn't work for me any more unless I really want it. I usually have to replace the wheels and some are shocking expensive.

Just my personal opinion.

 

[MTGreen]

I've weighted a lot of tractors and have found rear wheel weights are the best choice because it leaves the three-point open and distributes the weight better. The price is high but these days many weights cross over and fit many other brands. This matters because at auctions or on resale, odd branded weights bring way less money. You can somewhat search this online from the places that sell knock-off weights and it's increasingly common that weights cross-fit. Used weights are often hard to sell.

The counter weight works but I've never felt comfortable with the weight on the rear or hydraulics. I have used a heavy implement on the rear as a stopgap while I locate used weights, however.

Loaded rears don't work for me. First, they all corrode the wheels and the weight makes trailering difficult or impossible without bigger equipment.
Here's a picture thread I did on removing "non-corrosive" windshield washer fluid from loaded rears.

Think washer fluid in rear tires won't corrode?

I bought a used tractor with rears loaded with windshield washer fluid. Granted, it's not calcium chloride and most people think it doesn't corrode but here are some rusty pics. Tires were loaded for "a couple" years I was told and look at the rot. Luckily, I caught it in time and dumped the...

www.tractorbynet.com

My tire shop will no longer change beet juice loaded tires from rears so I'll add that. I don't know why. Also, I've decided buying a tractor with loaded rears doesn't work for me any more unless I really want it. I usually have to replace the wheels and some are shocking expensive.

Just my personal opinion.

Reading through that thread you tell us about rim corrosion that you attributed to windshield washer fluid that was contained in tubes.
I'm trying to wrap my head around why you are condemning the windshield washer fluid as corrosive as that was not really addressed in the thread?

 

[EddieWalker]

As of now, I'm committed to the rear ballast weight approach to deal with tippy issue that I'm having with my tractor. One of the things that I like about it is that I don't have to have it attached to my tractor if I trailer it anywhere. Or I can if I want to do loader work on my other farm. Either way, it gives me options that I wouldn't have if I had rear wheel weights, or loaded tires.

 

[sixdogs]

Reading through that thread you tell us about rim corrosion that you attributed to windshield washer fluid that was contained in tubes.
I'm trying to wrap my head around why you are condemning the windshield washer fluid as corrosive as that was not really addressed in the thread?

I'm not that deep of a thinker on things like that but look for cause and effect. Two tractors. One had ww fluid in the tubes and the other had just air. The ww one has rust and the air has no rust.

Therefore, ww= bad in my book and air =good. It may not be that way on a molecular level but I don't want to be a detective. That's the extent of my thought process.

I just want the easiest way in life that allows me to get where I'm going with the least impact on other people. Life has taught me to be wary of certain things so I avoid them. Likewise, sunshine has smiled on me about other things so I do those. So far, so good. I hope I answered your question.

 

[bigtiller]

My 2720 with cab weighs about 2200 lbs.

My ballast box weighs 600 lb with some concrete in it. It balances out the front mount snowblower, but only I only need it when the snow is very deep, otherwise I don't need it.

I add about 500 lbs of steel to it when using my pallet forks.

Both weights (600lbs & 1100lbs) seem about right...not to heavy and not to light.

 

[MTGreen]

I'm not that deep of a thinker on things like that but look for cause and effect. Two tractors. One had ww fluid in the tubes and the other had just air. The ww one has rust and the air has no rust.

Therefore, ww= bad in my book and air =good. It may not be that way on a molecular level but I don't want to be a detective. That's the extent of my thought process.

I just want the easiest way in life that allows me to get where I'm going with the least impact on other people. Life has taught me to be wary of certain things so I avoid them. Likewise, sunshine has smiled on me about other things so I do those. So far, so good. I hope I answered your question.

I see where you're coming from in seeing the correlation, thanks.

My mind is going down the lines of condensation forming on the fluid filled tubes from air getting into the tire/rim interior from around the tube valve stem. Air filled tubes would follow ambient temp much more closely and wouldn't be nearly as prone to collect condensation. Makes me wonder if one would see this effect with tubes filled with the various other fluid options. Makes me also wonder if windshield washer fluid really corrodes rims when there's no tube and you have a completely sealed rim/tire/fluid/air system

 

[LD1]

My 2720 with cab weighs about 2200 lbs.

My ballast box weighs 600 lb with some concrete in it. It balances out the front mount snowblower, but only I only need it when the snow is very deep, otherwise I don't need it.

I add about 500 lbs of steel to it when using my pallet forks.

Both weights (600lbs & 1100lbs) seem about right...not to heavy and not to light.

JD 2720 bare tractor 2000lbs (according to tractordata) you find 500-600lbs good ballast. Thats about 25%-30%

My old L3400.....bare tractor 2600#. I liked 1000# on the back. Thats 38%

My MX I find 1000# not enough for my MX.....bare tractor 3800. 26% not sufficient.

George2615 in post #3 has a 3200lb bare tractor and likes 927# ballast. Thats 29%

Steven Gables post #5 has a 7000# tractor and likes 1700#....24%

Bearsizty7 has 989# on a 2900# tractor....34%


Dont get any more real-world results than this. Seems 25% of bare ROPS tractor weight is what people use on the lower end of the spectrum. And 35%ish on the higher end. I know I personally tend to favor the heavier weight, especially for a heavier machine that can handle it.

For eddies 4707....t-data lists bare ROPS tractor weight at 7734#. So the 25%-35% range would equal 1933#-2700# for ballast. Maybe able to favor the lower end of that number because he has a cab which adds a tad over 900#.

But in either case, I think the initial 1000# idea is just a bit too light. Especially given so many find 1000# about right for 2500-3500# tractors

 

[bigtiller]

JD 2720 bare tractor 2000lbs (according to tractordata) you find 500-600lbs good ballast. Thats about 25%-30%

My old L3400.....bare tractor 2600#. I liked 1000# on the back. Thats 38%

My MX I find 1000# not enough for my MX.....bare tractor 3800. 26% not sufficient.

George2615 in post #3 has a 3200lb bare tractor and likes 927# ballast. Thats 29%

Steven Gables post #5 has a 7000# tractor and likes 1700#....24%

Bearsizty7 has 989# on a 2900# tractor....34%


Dont get any more real-world results than this. Seems 25% of bare ROPS tractor weight is what people use on the lower end of the spectrum. And 35%ish on the higher end. I know I personally tend to favor the heavier weight, especially for a heavier machine that can handle it.

For eddies 4707....t-data lists bare ROPS tractor weight at 7734#. So the 25%-35% range would equal 1933#-2700# for ballast. Maybe able to favor the lower end of that number because he has a cab which adds a tad over 900#.

But in either case, I think the initial 1000# idea is just a bit too light. Especially given so many find 1000# about right for 2500-3500# tractors

Is 1100 lbs when using my pallet forks to much? That figures to about 50%. I can remove a few suitcase weights if needed.

 

[EddieWalker]

So I'm at home this week with Covid for the 4th time. This time it's not even like having a cold, it's just exhausting and slightly uncomfortable, but otherwise, no big deal. My wife and I have it with similar symptoms. Our biggest concern is doing anything physical that might make us feel worse and extend how long it lasts.

Since I have nothing else to do, I went to Calculate Bags of Concrete Mix - Round Square Footings Holes Slabs - Inch and punched in a variety of measurements to see where I could get to 2,000 pounds using 60 pound bags of concrete.

It looks like 2 feet wide, 2 1/2 feet deep, and 3 feet tall will give me a total weight of 2,040 pounds with 34 bags. When I buy a pallet of 56, I get a bulk discount and my Military discount, so that's what I'll buy. The rest will get used for fence posts, or under fencing to block baby goats from getting into the chicken area and eating all their food. Nothing is better at getting through fencing then baby goats, and they never give up trying to get to the chicken food!!!!!

Amazon sent a message that the 3 point hitch was delivered today. It's at my front gate, 800 feet away. I'm too tired to go get it right now, I'm gonna wait until the mail is delivered and do it all in one trip.

I have some scrap plywood laying around, but I'm not sure if it's enough to build a form this big. Before I build anything, I'm going to hook up the 3 point hitch to my tractor and confirm my measurements. I could make it a bit bigger, but I think this is what I'm going to shoot for.

 

[Bearsixty7]

So I'm at home this week with Covid for the 4th time. This time it's not even like having a cold, it's just exhausting and slightly uncomfortable, but otherwise, no big deal. My wife and I have it with similar symptoms. Our biggest concern is doing anything physical that might make us feel worse and extend how long it lasts.

Sorry to hear that! I Hope you get better soon and have no long lasting effects.

I have some scrap plywood laying around, but I'm not sure if it's enough to build a form this big. Before I build anything, I'm going to hook up the 3 point hitch to my tractor and confirm my measurements. I could make it a bit bigger, but I think this is what I'm going to shoot for.

In case you don't already know, Brace around it with 2x6 boards overlapping and bolted together at the corners with the 2" edge against the plywood or the concrete will push it out of shape and possibly bust out. I used 2 rows of 2x4's since mine was only going to be about 1000lbs and it still bowed just a little across the back but doesn't matter or affect anything.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thank you. I looked at it yesterday and I'm a bit nervous about all the weight of it being held up in the air, while off roading around my land, by the two tabs of metal welded to the frame that will support the concrete. I'm going to weld on some more metal to it so it will be stronger before building the wood frame. Is there such a thing as too strong? I have some scrap, so it's not going to cost anything, and with the ground getting so muddy from the rains, it's a good project to work on once I feel better.

I agree with wrapping the plywood frame with lumber. It's easy to unscrew too much lumber, but hard to add it when something goes wrong!!!!!