Excellent!!
More problems on the 425 Kohler CH25
- Thread starter Modrob
- Start date
- Views: 24417
Plus, I’m gonna start using the recommended Kohler 10w-30 oil. I’m guessing the zinc and any other additives in it make the difference in keeping those touchy lifters from sticking solid. I decided to try and “rejuvenate” mine, since I found them to be so simple…but…I may have to rethink that…the first one wasn’t too difficult to disassemble and reassemble. But, the next three have been a near nightmare getting apart—first, in order to get the retaining clip out, they need pumped down. I tried using the half-pushrod mounted in a drill press method, but it was taking so much effort to crank the press down, it was pushing the head unit away from the table! I had to end up putting it in a vice with a small socket to push in. And THEN, trying to get the two sliding parts out, they would hang up at the point of coming out of the main shell. It took quite a while maneuvering with PBBlaster and other stuff to finally get all the pieces out. I then cleaned and polished them and the spring, and with a little oil coating put them back together. About 24 hours later they all still plunge just fine, but I’m kinda worried that they might solidify again, since the newest oil hasn’t become totally clean again. (Meaning I’m sure there’s more gunk/varnish, crud, etc. to flush out)
I believe it wise to not experiment in this case, and just order new lifters…
Oh and that Kohler oil? At Tractor Supply I paid 14.99 per quart! Ouch!Plus, I’m gonna start using the recommended Kohler 10w-30 oil. I’m guessing the zinc and any other additives in it make the difference in keeping those touchy lifters from sticking solid. I decided to try and “rejuvenate” mine, since I found them to be so simple…but…I may have to rethink that…the first one wasn’t too difficult to disassemble and reassemble. But, the next three have been a near nightmare getting apart—first, in order to get the retaining clip out, they need pumped down. I tried using the half-pushrod mounted in a drill press method, but it was taking so much effort to crank the press down, it was pushing the head unit away from the table! I had to end up putting it in a vice with a small socket to push in. And THEN, trying to get the two sliding parts out, they would hang up at the point of coming out of the main shell. It took quite a while maneuvering with PBBlaster and other stuff to finally get all the pieces out. I then cleaned and polished them and the spring, and with a little oil coating put them back together. About 24 hours later they all still plunge just fine, but I’m kinda worried that they might solidify again, since the newest oil hasn’t become totally clean again. (Meaning I’m sure there’s more gunk/varnish, crud, etc. to flush out)
I believe it wise to not experiment in this case, and just order new lifters…
ponytug
Super Member
Ouch! It is $6.61/qt if you buy a case of 12 at Amazon...
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,142
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I picked up a 20 ton shop press from harbor freight a few years ago...Plus, I’m gonna start using the recommended Kohler 10w-30 oil. I’m guessing the zinc and any other additives in it make the difference in keeping those touchy lifters from sticking solid. I decided to try and “rejuvenate” mine, since I found them to be so simple…but…I may have to rethink that…the first one wasn’t too difficult to disassemble and reassemble. But, the next three have been a near nightmare getting apart—first, in order to get the retaining clip out, they need pumped down. I tried using the half-pushrod mounted in a drill press method, but it was taking so much effort to crank the press down, it was pushing the head unit away from the table! I had to end up putting it in a vice with a small socket to push in. And THEN, trying to get the two sliding parts out, they would hang up at the point of coming out of the main shell. It took quite a while maneuvering with PBBlaster and other stuff to finally get all the pieces out. I then cleaned and polished them and the spring, and with a little oil coating put them back together. About 24 hours later they all still plunge just fine, but I’m kinda worried that they might solidify again, since the newest oil hasn’t become totally clean again. (Meaning I’m sure there’s more gunk/varnish, crud, etc. to flush out)
I believe it wise to not experiment in this case, and just order new lifters…
seems prudent to spend $250 on a press VS $79 for 4 new lifters...
But seriously, it's pretty handy to have around at home now. I had access to a press at my former employer, so never had the need to have one at home. But haven't worked there for about 6.5 years now. Plus, getting set up for retirement in a few years, so gathering the necessities for the garage... shop press, band saw, small refrigerator.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,142
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I switched my engine oil to mobil 1 after the 1st oil change. That's all that's been in it for 20+ years.
Yep…I believe I’ve read a few comments from that mention as long as it’s a high quality oil with the proper specs, then it should be fine…at this point, and seeing the carnage up close and personal, I’m running a bit “sceert” for now, so I’ll stay with the Kohler stuff and pay more attention to inspections—might be worth it to pop off a valve cover every so often and see how it all looks in there…
And yes—I wouldn’t mind having a real shop press too…probably safer than some of the things I’ve rigged up over the years. You should see my “valve spring compressor”…a big C-clamp and the U-shaped bottom of a chair castor…
Update: sorry, not really an update…yet. I’ve been covered up with other stuff and “honey do” items…and the nasty weather hasn’t given me many opportunities. But I do have all the parts now to get this thing back together and see what happens. Will update then.
2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,517
Is that the same cylinder where you found the mystery pin?
MTGreen
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2022
- Messages
- 999
- Location
- Montana, USA
- Tractor
- Deere 5220, Ford 1720, Deere Progator 2030
Does the dent extend down to the first piston ring?
Also it likely has bulged up material at the head sealing surface that will need to be taken down before a head gasket will seal properly. I would check with a straightedge or precision scale
Also it likely has bulged up material at the head sealing surface that will need to be taken down before a head gasket will seal properly. I would check with a straightedge or precision scale
It’s hard to see, but I wouldn’t call it a dent (a depression from the top surface down towards the bottom)—it’s more like the side of the bore is missing some surface material…make sense? Sorry, I should have lowered the piston down to examine closer…I’ll do that shortly and repost…
ponytug
Super Member
I hate to armchair quarterback, but for an engine, that looks like a big dent outwards and upwards. Have you measured how much the deviations are?
All the best,
Peter
All the best,
Peter
Last edited:
I hear you!
It sure alarms me too, but I haven’t gotten back to it this evening (had to make long distance run with wife for groceries and meds, and it’s been pouring the rain…arrrrggggg) Also, it appeared to me that the surface area of the impression is smooth—I would have thought it would have some kind of roughness to it…maybe constant heat had something to do with it, since the gasket was leaking in that area…?As soon as I can, I’ll investigate closer…
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,142
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I know you want to see if you can get it going. I'm pulling for you.
I think I would replace both heads and be done with it.
But that's coming from a guy who's engine has been sitting next to his PT for several months doing n-o-t-h-i-n-g!
I think I would replace both heads and be done with it.
But that's coming from a guy who's engine has been sitting next to his PT for several months doing n-o-t-h-i-n-g!
LOL I probably didn’t detail it correctly—the impression is in the block part. I think the heads are ok after a little prep work, and all new parts to boot…but…I know you want to see if you can get it going. I'm pulling for you.
I think I would replace both heads and be done with it.
But that's coming from a guy who's engine has been sitting next to his PT for several months doing n-o-t-h-i-n-g!
Now…I’ve come to the point of it being apart so long I kinda dread starting back on it. (Seems to have gotten worse with age
) I have to get my mind fully involved in it again with no other distractions. And my mind keeps getting excited at new fix prospects, so I tend to be all over the place. I think they call it “too many irons in the fire”…LOL
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,142
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I'm sorry, I knew you meant the block not the head. I'd replace it.LOL I probably didn’t detail it correctly—the impression is in the block part. I think the heads are ok after a little prep work, and all new parts to boot…but…
Now…I’ve come to the point of it being apart so long I kinda dread starting back on it. (Seems to have gotten worse with age
Oops—my fault! I didn’t think it through enough, and when you mentioned “jug” I remember that from a small Honda cycle motor I was working on a couple years ago…
So that “jug” separates from the block as well, enabling it to be replaced? I think I need to study a little more—I thought I had it all figured out! LOL
I’ll be lucky if I ever get this thing running again…
When I first saw it, I had been considering…(keep in mind I have no real “skill” but have always relied on trial-and-effort, printed materials, and plain old ‘I think it works like this—what if I try this?’”
) …that since that depression opened up that space just a little more that it would be contained by the gasket and the head above it. Maybe not enough to hurt the performance too bad—after all it’s been running fine for about the last three years. I know that’s not the way it should be looked at and everything should be replaced, but sometimes I have to get there the “hard way”…LOL
