1 tractor rest of forever -- what brand?

[Bentrim]

They are leaking internally, not externally. When I first got the tractor, when picking up something heavy with my forks, I could lift the loaded rear tires off the ground, even if I had my rear blade on it. Wouldn't happen if I had the backhoe on it. Now it won't lift the rear tires even with no implement on the back. It is not uncommon for the piston seals to roll/leak in these tractors. No intention of taking it to the dealer. I just need to find the time to figure out which cylinder is leaking, pull it and replace the seals.

If the cylinders are leaking internally the loader will not hold position, that is the frame will drop or the bucket will dump with the control in neutral. If you suspect it is an internal leak use a piece of pipe, screwdiver, or what ever place it against the cylinder and you will hear the oil bypassing.
If the frame or bucket doesn't drop I would suspect either the relief valve is bypassing too soon or the pump is leaking internally. To check relief valve again the ole pipe trick may work, or plumb in a pressure gauge. The same applies to the pump except two other "tests" does it lift better with the oil cold and/or does increasing the engine speed help?

 

[nknelsen]

I would guess that Kubota is the most popular compact tractor these days. Thinking that it and John Deere are 1 and 2? So, I have a Mahindra but I might sell it in order to get exactly what I need in a tractor. Primary needs are pasture clipping 7 acres and use in a 50-acre woodlot for managing trees and trails. Was thinking that JD or Kubota would provide...

- parts availability
- dependable
- design
- performance
- ease of maintenance
- resale ability down the way
- plenty of dealers

If you could find exactly what you want in a tractor, what brand would you buy? Being as dependable as possible, easiest to maintain, parts availability and ability to resell down the way are very important in this discussion. Easiest to maintain probably No.1 because I am age 70 and do maintenance and repairs that I can but I am not the type that relishes tinkering, lol, plus, I work alone mostly. Buying used would be great if one is found but not averse to buying new if have to. Should be my last tractor.

Doesn't have to be JD or Kubota but that's my thinking.

TIA!

I think Kioti would be number 3 overall. But for me Kioti is number 1. I purchased the CX2510 to replace a much loved but significantly smaller Kioti CS2410. Other than one hydraulic line that failed prematurely, I've had great success with the brand.

My search started long ago and originally focused on JD and Kubota. I quickly realized that I just didn't want to spend the extra 40% for the JD that needs special proprietary loader attachments and I just couldn't get used to the shuttle pedal design on the Kubota, my ankles just aren't as flexible as this design needs.

So I then looked at Kioti and Mahindra. I ruled out the Mahindra quickly as I just didn't like the design and fit and finish and they have some really bad reviews. I'm also keenly aware of the country these tractors are made in. I think the Koreans are second only to the Japanese when it comes to design and development of anything with a motor.

That and the JD was a full 20000 more then my Kioti. That money buys a lot of quick attach toys for the loader like a grapple and forks.

But I do think that JD and Kubota are great tractors and to be honest, it's much easier to buy parts for a JD or a Kubota. But Kioti is getting better in parts availability.

I hope this helps

 

[Sawyer Rob]

My normal response to all such questions is "shop the dealer." If you can't get parts and service conveniently and with a good attitude from the shop, buy a different brand.

"Forever" is a long time from now, IF the mfg. no longer makes the part that you need, it doesn't much matter what dealer you have.

LESS parts to go wrong is MUCH better, simpler means easier to figure it out yourself.

Not everyone is an electrical engineer to keep one of today's tractors going, so the less of that junk the better!

An example is, engaging the PTO. What do you think is more reliable, a lever with a cable, or an electric switch with a solenoid and a hydraulic powered clutch pack.

Maybe even a puter to "feather" the PTO in, VS. a lever and your arm, to slowly move the lever to feather the PTO in.

My neighbor bought a new deere, he hates it for several reasons and one of them is, when he has his double Kuhn hay rake on it, the PTO switch slams the PTO on. The deere dealer says it's how they work, it's working normal.

SR

 

[Bentrim]

Tractors built before the 80's were built simply and easy to maintain by the owner, tractors then started to get "electrified" and became harder to self maintain, currently tractor contain computers water and rodents along with normal wear and tear can make the unreliable and expensive to maintain, and the emmissions equipment doesn't help any either.
At 73 a few years ago I picked up a MF 245 that needed work, was able to find a 232 loader with the right brackets so I am happy with my "forever tractor".
As has been stated before if I was going to look for another tractor I would check out the online classifieds and see what a potential purchase was selling for and the availability of that model, then I would check the wrecking yards for used parts availability.
I used to work for a MF dealer so I prefer MF of course. The older 135, 165, 175, 230, 245, 255, 265, 275 were pretty reliable tractors that used fuel efficent Perkins diesels. Just a warning though the tractors with the swept back front axle were not the best for loaders and avoid a 235 as they had a "new improved" steering gear that was weak.

 

[LDR812]

They are leaking internally, not externally. When I first got the tractor, when picking up something heavy with my forks, I could lift the loaded rear tires off the ground, even if I had my rear blade on it. Wouldn't happen if I had the backhoe on it. Now it won't lift the rear tires even with no implement on the back. It is not uncommon for the piston seals to roll/leak in these tractors. No intention of taking it to the dealer. I just need to find the time to figure out which cylinder is leaking, pull it and replace the seals.

Might as well rebuild them both. I remember going to the local NH dealer and buying a kit for 1 lift cylinder. The parts guy told me “I got one more kit - you want it? Your gonna need it!” I didn’t buy it but in about 6 months I needed it for the other cylinder!

 

[jyoutz]

"Forever" is a long time from now, IF the mfg. no longer makes the part that you need, it doesn't much matter what dealer you have.

LESS parts to go wrong is MUCH better, simpler means easier to figure it out yourself.

Not everyone is an electrical engineer to keep one of today's tractors going, so the less of that junk the better!

An example is, engaging the PTO. What do you think is more reliable, a lever with a cable, or an electric switch with a solenoid and a hydraulic powered clutch pack.

Maybe even a puter to "feather" the PTO in, VS. a lever and your arm, to slowly move the lever to feather the PTO in.

My neighbor bought a new deere, he hates it for several reasons and one of them is, when he has his double Kuhn hay rake on it, the PTO switch slams the PTO on. The deere dealer says it's how they work, it's working normal.

SR

You have to lower RPMs before engaging an electric PTO, then raise them as the implement is engaged.

 

[D'oh]

Minty Ford 4610 II Low Hours, Shuttle Shift.

 

[scootr]

You have to lower RPMs before engaging an electric PTO, then raise them as the implement is engaged.

Common sense required for both mechanical and electrical PTO engagement.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

You have to lower RPMs before engaging an electric PTO, then raise them as the implement is engaged.

Absolutely, but that's not possible on my neighbors new deere, it idles at a 1,000 or more RPM's and the dealer says that's for emissions, can't lower it and can't feather it in.

My AGCO's idle at less than half of what his deere does, as does his older tractors.

SR

 

[Shady oak]

I have several Kubotas. I have not looked at a Kiota ina long time. But back when I did they were very well built. The frame and the loader looker extremely tough. U dear the hood, it looked like they took a Kubota engine apart and copied it, right up to the oil filter placement.

 

[jyoutz]

Absolutely, but that's not possible on my neighbors new deere, it idles at a 1,000 or more RPM's and the dealer says that's for emissions, can't lower it and can't feather it in.

My AGCO's idle at less than half of what his deere does, as does his older tractors.

SR

I do that on my Kubota, and 1000 RPMs is plenty low enough to engage the PTO without clanging. On an old pre-emissions JD (Yanmar engine) I used to own, running at RPMs less than 1000 would result in the low oil pressure light coming on.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I do that on my Kubota, and 1000 RPMs is plenty low enough to engage the PTO without clanging.

Tell that to my neighbor who has two Kuhn rakes, and they go bang when you hit the switch.

He's worried it will chip a tooth in one of the gear boxes, and I thought the same as you, until he started the tractor and showed me how it slammed in, pretty hard.

SR

 

[jyoutz]

Tell that to my neighbor who has two Kuhn rakes, and they go bang when you hit the switch.

He's worried it will chip a tooth in one of the gear boxes, and I thought the same as you, until he started the tractor and showed me how it slammed in, pretty hard.

SR

Must be a JD thing. Mine works fine with my rotary cutter.

 

[oosik]

We moved onto our property in 1982. I was 42 and this property is 80 acres.

This property was part of an original homestead.

It had basically nothing when we moved onto it. No driveway( we accessed thru neighbors land), no power, no water, no sewer. Over a period of six months we built a house( Pan Abode ) - new mile long driveway - water supply - sewage disposal. And the local Co-Op brought in power. Local contractor did the water, sewer, house foundation and driveway. He lives just four miles down the road.

Right off I knew I needed a tractor. Brand new Ford 1700 4WD. It did a magnificent job - for 27 years - on the smaller projects. Then in 2009 I upgraded to a brand new Kubota M6040 4WD. It has helped with my larger projects.

This will be the last tractor I ever buy. Anything bigger - I'd probably just be doing damage.

 

[Redlined0002]

I would guess that Kubota is the most popular compact tractor these days. Thinking that it and John Deere are 1 and 2? So, I have a Mahindra but I might sell it in order to get exactly what I need in a tractor. Primary needs are pasture clipping 7 acres and use in a 50-acre woodlot for managing trees and trails. Was thinking that JD or Kubota would provide...

- parts availability
- dependable
- design
- performance
- ease of maintenance
- resale ability down the way
- plenty of dealers

If you could find exactly what you want in a tractor, what brand would you buy? Being as dependable as possible, easiest to maintain, parts availability and ability to resell down the way are very important in this discussion. Easiest to maintain probably No.1 because I am age 70 and do maintenance and repairs that I can but I am not the type that relishes tinkering, lol, plus, I work alone mostly. Buying used would be great if one is found but not averse to buying new if have to. Should be my last tractor.

Doesn't have to be JD or Kubota but that's my thinking.

TIA!

What size tractor and cab or open station

 

[Redlined0002]

Good point. Some of these tractors are not meant for large people. Not sure how you stack up physically but I can tell that the Kubota tractor is built for a smaller framed/sized person than most resulting in some ergonomic compromise. Common to see keys bent over by the operators knee if he is 6 ft tall and gannon and gear/speed controls feel like they are in your side pockets.

Scooter you may need glasses. There are a lot of 6' + men here with Kubota's and have no problems or complaints

 

[scootr]

Scooter you may need glasses. There are a lot of 6' + men here with Kubota's and have no problems or complaints

I do wear glasses and my tractor experience is from a long line of Industrial construction tractors. Yesterday I had the displeasure of operating a JD 3038. My knees were in my chest with little room for my size 12 feet. Seat was small, etc.
If you like operating like that well - enjoy.
My MX tractor is better but near the room and comfort of a full size tractor whose seat turns and locks at 45º for gannon work.

 

[Rustyiron]

We have a JD with over 17000 hours and besides a few electrical issues there has been zero work done on it. Need I say more?

I wish any "color" from 1960-80 could be had now new!

 

[livemusic]

What size tractor and cab or open station

Open station. Size... hard to pin down at this time, still pondering needs. It's pasture clipping and improvement by removing saplings and trees but also 50-acre woodlot use. But 40-50 hp is a range that I envision would work. My Mahindra 5010 is 50hp and that's fine except it's a bit large for the woods. Might enlarge my trails, lol.

 

[NYlumberman]

We are at a similar point in our lives. At 74 I sold my 21 year old “Green Yanmar“ a JD 4200 and bought a new Red Yanmar YT235. The green one had more responsive hydraulics on the FEL. At two years in, I have been very pleased. Our application is about the same. Except I bought a used municipal commercial mower for that particular task. It never dawned on me to worry about the dealer. Our JD and Kubota dealers in area seem OK. In 21 years all I bought was one hose (turned out I actually only needed the O ring), a fuel solenoid (the problem ultimately was a corroded fuse), 2 front tires and a battery I killed by bumping the key switch as I elegantly dismounted So the hose and the spare solenoid went with it when I sold it. I did invest in a digital copy of the shop manuals, which turned out to be a security blanket with a low ROI. The new machine is tier 4 so no more prolonged idling or low RPM operation under load. Regen hasn’t been an issue. My mantra is keep on top of grease, oil, filters, and fuel quality. So far so good, your mileage may vary.