[KUBOTA B3200] Grader Blade / Box Blade Recommendation for Driveway Maintenance

[paulsharvey]

In my opinion, a multi-adjustable HD rear straight scraper blade is definitely the most versatile and useful, BUT, you really need a bigger, heavier tractor in order to do a lot of work with them. A small, light tractor can't carry and pull the 800+ lb blade that you need in order to cut into firm soil or materials. A generic 250 lb 5 or 6' scraper blade doesn't do much besides smooth out loose materials or plow snow; they just bounce along on anything firm.

I'm not that familiar with the size/weight of a B3200; but could he not run an 84" Rear scraper like KK HD-RB-84? It looks like it's around 700#, offers tilt, pivot, (maybe side shift, but not tool free side shift?), for $2200, with a 32hp, 4x4 machine?

 

[deezler]

I'm not that familiar with the size/weight of a B3200; but could he not run an 84" Rear scraper like KK HD-RB-84? It looks like it's around 700#, offers tilt, pivot, (maybe side shift, but not tool free side shift?), for $2200, with a 32hp, 4x4 machine?

The Kubota B3200 sounds impressive at 32 HP, but it only weighs 1700 lbs. Without wheel spacers, only 53" wide too.

 

[Forest_Man]

The Kubota B3200 sounds impressive at 32 HP, but it only weighs 1700 lbs. Without wheel spacers, only 53" wide too.

My B3200 has 8" spacers (4" on each side), a quick hitch and loaded tires.

If not a 7 feet rear blade, how about a King Kutter 6' Heavy Duty Rear Blade, # HD-RB-72?

 

[paulsharvey]

My B3200 has 8" spacers (4" on each side), a quick hitch and loaded tires.

If not a 7 feet rear blade, how about a King Kutter 6' Heavy Duty Rear Blade, # HD-RB-72?

View attachment 868739

So, that appears to be a well made, heavy, rear blade with pivot and tilt. I "think" there are two bolts/nuts on the back, that can be loosened and the entire moldboard shifted left or right by about 12 inches; basically allowing offset work (such as cleaning a ditch). I can't 100% confirm just looking at the pic though. Found a picture on Northern Tool, and it doesn't appear it can shift the blade left or right; but at 72", I dont Think that will be an issue.

Iron Craft I think offers a similar set up for comparison; Looks like Ironcraft 4406 is the comparable; which offers side shift, But only weights 340 lbs vs whatever the KK weights.

 

[Forest_Man]

I can't 100% confirm just looking at the pic though. Found a picture on Northern Tool, and it doesn't appear it can shift the blade left or right; but at 72", I dont Think that will be an issue.

I think you are correct, the KK does not seem to offer the offset adjustment.

Iron Craft I think offers a similar set up for comparison; Looks like Ironcraft 4406 is the comparable; which offers side shift, But only weights 340 lbs vs whatever the KK weights.

I see the offset pin on the Ironcraft and I can visualize how this adds more versality.

 

[D&D]

I think you are correct, the KK does not seem to offer the offset adjustment.


I see the offset pin on the Ironcraft and I can visualize how this adds more versality.

just to help add to the confusion

6-Way Articulating Back Blade Pinnacle Series

6-Way Articulating Back Blades for Cat-1 & Cat-2 Tractors from Homestead Implements. Shop heavy-duty implements for the difficult projects around your homestead or hobby farm!

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[2manyrocks]

I'm several days late to this thread, but may I suggest the Center for Dirt and Gravel Road Studies as a how to resource?

materials estimator tool: https://dirtandgravel.psu.edu/general-resources/dglvr-materials-calculator/

They also have a number of technical bulletins all focused on common issues with building and maintaining gravel roads.

As for the box blade/rear blade question, I have a Yammar 226d 2wd and a Kubota L2501 4wd. The Yanmar will pull a 5.5' box blade, but the Kubota does much better due to the 4wd.

IMO, the box blade is much more useful than a dirt blade for basic road maintenance because you can drag gravel to where it's needed, and it's more user friendly when it comes to getting a smooth finish without digging in.

The dirt blade is better for when you need to cut the grade down or clean a ditch, but I just keep my box blade on the L2501 all the time for maintaining our gravel driveway.

I'd lean more towards 5' rather than 6'. If it's too wide relative to your tractor, you won't be able to use it to its full capacity. It's not just the weight of the implement, it's also the weight of gravel, plus friction, and having to contend with hills if you have them. 5' will cover about half of a normal road bed in one pass.

 

[California]

Maybe someone can adapt this to their application:

I have a lightweight, ancient back blade. Trade name 'Carrington Terracer', but I don't know how it could cut terraces going across a hillside. No matter how much I set one of the 3-point arms lower, this doesn't cause that end of the blade to cut deeper. It's too light, and flexible. (Prior owner had this for snow).

Solution: Ballast added to the side that is supposed to cut. I have two more of these 70 lb wheel weights I could add, but this was sufficient for bringing back the gravel that had been tossed out of the roadway.

This pulls easily with the 4wd 18hp Yanmar.

 

[Forest_Man]

I'm several days late to this thread, but may I suggest the Center for Dirt and Gravel Road Studies as a how to resource?

Actually yes! Someone linked a TB and from this TB I found the main program from PennState and it is very informative. The ESM Guide is comprehensive.

As for the box blade/rear blade question, I have a Yammar 226d 2wd and a Kubota L2501 4wd. The Yanmar will pull a 5.5' box blade, but the Kubota does much better due to the 4wd.

IMO, the box blade is much more useful than a dirt blade for basic road maintenance because you can drag gravel to where it's needed, and it's more user friendly when it comes to getting a smooth finish without digging in.

The dirt blade is better for when you need to cut the grade down or clean a ditch, but I just keep my box blade on the L2501 all the time for maintaining our gravel driveway.

I'd lean more towards 5' rather than 6'. If it's too wide relative to your tractor, you won't be able to use it to its full capacity. It's not just the weight of the implement, it's also the weight of gravel, plus friction, and having to contend with hills if you have them. 5' will cover about half of a normal road bed in one pass.

Thank you for sharing this!

 

[paulsharvey]

Dont know if our OP has purchased yet; but the Rhino 3505 60" Rear Blade 'seems' to offer pivot, tilt, and offset, for a pretty affordable price.

 

[Forest_Man]

Dont know if our OP has purchased yet; but the Rhino 3505 60" Rear Blade 'seems' to offer pivot, tilt, and offset, for a pretty affordable price.

I have not yet - still looking for a used one with around me. Very good find with the Rhino 3505 - see used prices as low as $600.

 

[oosik]

When I had my Ford 1700 I had a smaller, lighter Land Pride rear blade - around 350#. It did great - clearing snow on my driveway.

Otherwise - in the summer. It drug along behind the tractor - bumping, chattering and making sparks. It just was not heavy enough to do any work.

The first thing I bought when I got my new Kubota M6040 - a HD 8 foot Rhino rear blade. It weighs a tad over 1000# and will cut into my gravel driveway with ease.

 

[Bendboater]

I wonder how much it would cost to have someone come in with the right tools to do the job? Might actually be less expensive in the long run. Then, after the road has been properly constructed, you can use your tractor to maintain it. I know money can be tight, but IMO, I would consider having an all weather road into my residence to be much more important than having all the fun toys (including the tractor) discussed thus far.
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.

 

[paulsharvey]

I wonder how much it would cost to have someone come in with the right tools to do the job? Might actually be less expensive in the long run. Then, after the road has been properly constructed, you can use your tractor to maintain it. I know money can be tight, but IMO, I would consider having an all weather road into my residence to be much more important than having all the fun toys (including the tractor) discussed thus far.
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.

I would 'guess' we are talking right around $40,000 to hire it done.

So, if we wanted to break this down as a bid job, I'm looking at approx $27,000 in Material; $6400 in a dozer/operator; $3000 mobilization; $1600 for a vibratory roller; or $38,000 cost; now, 18.75% profit; we end up at a contract price of $45,175. That's a Lot of money for a driveway that our OP has successfully used for years; when we can add some base material in areas, dress it up, do some water control, and all; for $4500 or so.

 

[D&D]

I wonder how much it would cost to have someone come in with the right tools to do the job? Might actually be less expensive in the long run. Then, after the road has been properly constructed, you can use your tractor to maintain it. I know money can be tight, but IMO, I would consider having an all weather road into my residence to be much more important than having all the fun toys (including the tractor) discussed thus far.
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.

well……

Yes, 50% of the reason I bought the Kubota was to maintain the driveway. Right now I need to get it fixed by the Timber company then hopefully I'll be able to maintain it with a box blade after they are done with the work.

 

[rScotty]

I have not yet - still looking for a used one with around me. Very good find with the Rhino 3505 - see used prices as low as $600.

Twenty years ago, the type of project that you are wanting to do was very commonly done with 30 hp tractors. ALL YOU NEED IS THE RIGHT 3PT IMPLEMENT.

At one time, every USA implement company made an affordable manually adjusted 3pt six foot back blade that worked nearly as well as a road grader. IT DID JUST WHAT YOU WANT.
We have one, and I still have an old spread sheet showing half a dozen companies that made their own version. Although these have mostly been discontinued in today's cheapie US implement market, a used one would be just exactly what you want for that muddy long driveway.

In fact, since I have one I know it well. No, unfortunately not for sale - but a used one would be just as good. An example is a Land Pride RB3572 (discontinued, of course)
Then RB3572 came with manually adjustable tilt, angle, offset, reversing, end plates caps, stand, trailing wheel, and skid shoes. Every part well built. Well matched to your B3200.
Price in 2002 was just over 2K. Used ones are now about that price today.
It will cut, smooth, ditch, and berm. Does mud & gravel. Has optional rake.

Here's all the info on one typical model. There are others.
It does need to have all those adjustments, and most of the optional parts to really work well. The end plates/caps are what makes it work like a box blade. The tilt+offset does the ditch & berm.
Then trailing wheel keeps it all honest.
rScotty

 

[Forest_Man]

I would 'guess' we are talking right around $40,000 to hire it done.

So, if we wanted to break this down as a bid job, I'm looking at approx $27,000 in Material; $6400 in a dozer/operator; $3000 mobilization; $1600 for a vibratory roller; or $38,000 cost; now, 18.75% profit; we end up at a contract price of $45,175. That's a Lot of money for a driveway that our OP has successfully used for years; when we can add some base material in areas, dress it up, do some water control, and all; for $4500 or so.

I have not gotten an actual quote but I wouldn't be shocked if I got a quote more expensive than that.

And yes, the driveway is functional and needs proper maintenance that I am willing and getting ready to do it.

 

[Forest_Man]

Twenty years ago, the type of project that you are wanting to do was very commonly done with 30 hp tractors. ALL YOU NEED IS THE RIGHT 3PT IMPLEMENT.

In fact, since I have one I know it well. No, unfortunately not for sale - but a used one would be just as good. An example is a Land Pride RB3572 (discontinued, of course)
Then RB3572 came with manually adjustable tilt, angle, offset, reversing, end plates caps, stand, trailing wheel, and skid shoes. Every part well built. Well matched to your B3200.
Price in 2002 was just over 2K. Used ones are now about that price today.
It will cut, smooth, ditch, and berm. Does mud & gravel. Has optional rake.

Amazing recommendation and literature. Thank you very much! Having a model/series that has been tested to search for helps a lot!

Here's all the info on one typical model. There are others.

How could I find comparable models with full adjustments? Do you happen to know another model that i could start a search for too?

 

[rScotty]

Amazing recommendation and literature. Thank you very much! Having a model/series that has been tested to search for helps a lot!


How could I find comparable models with full adjustments? Do you happen to know another model that i could start a search for too?

Amazing recommendation and literature. Thank you very much! Having a model/series that has been tested to search for helps a lot!


How could I find comparable models with full adjustments? Do you happen to know another model that i could start a search for too?

Well, they used to be common. The same blades are now hydraulically controlled and over twice the price. But I'll bet manual ones are stll out there. Once you get it set up for an operation like ditching or berming you tend to go the whole length of the drive that way. It often requires many passes moving only minimal material to get it right.

There are a number of used implement warehouse dealers online. Used ones work as good as new, but all of the 3way adjustable work much better with the end caps & sliders. I've not found a tail wheel (depth adjustment) as handy as I thought it would be.
But all those parts are pretty much universal and can be adapted later.

Here is a screenshot I made up when looking. Old, but might help. Most blades angle, but what you really want is one that will also tilt & offset. They are built much heavier that a simple angle blade. They are expensive, but 90% cheaper than hiring it done - and when done you can keep or sell the blade. rScotty

 

[Forest_Man]

View attachment 872561

This is great! Thank you very much for sharing it.