Diesels are much more efficient and longer lasting as well and as far as fuel gelling in cold weather, a shot of Power Service silver label cures that issue no sweat. One thing to keep in mind is a diesel will be purring along, long after that gas motor is completely shot.I dislike diesel.
Can't stand the smell of it if it gets on my clothes. And, I've never failed to get a gas engine to start in cold weather. The little CH25 Kohler has started as low as -15F with just a shot of starting fluid.
Diesels, on the other hand... I used to work with a lot of them when I worked at the airport back in the 70s and 80s. Gelled fuel was the biggest problem. All required pre-heating. All cost a lot more, etc.
Now it does not get as cold here as it used to, but I need it to start if it does. I don't want to have to treat fuel, pre-heat, etc.
When you think about a machine like the PT425, all it is is an engine spinning pumps. 25HP is 25HP, no matter what makes it. The pumps do not know. I'll lose traction and spin the tires way before the engine bogs down.
In my opinion... hahahahaha, I see no need for a diesel for my own uses.
For that matter, my first tractor was an IH2500b tractor loader. 8000# machine. 50PTO hp. Cab. Dedicated loader on the front and 3pt hitch on the rear. It was hydrostatic and had a gas engine.
Did I mention I dislike diesel?
And much more expensive, and too large to fit in the unit...
I repaired an oil leak on a friends Xmark o-turn with a Kohler 26hp. it was the crank seal. another person replaced it twice, still leaked. I inspected it and kept cleaning and looking at the seal when it was seeping. it was leaking around the outside of the seal, I got a new one and put a light dab of silicone around it and installed, problem solved,fortunatly they also had a big forklift so we raised it up in the air & I removed the pto clutch then the seal. then put it back togetherMy 2001 PT425 developed an oil leak. About 1/2 a quart every 20 minutes. Can't seem to locate it, other than a pool of oil under the engine. So time to pull the engine, put it on a stand, clean it up, and run it to locate the leak.
Trying to avoid disconnecting hydraulic hoses.
Pulled the gas tank and fuel pump all on the bracket. Just 4 bolts and a hose clamp.
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Pulled the muffler. 4 nuts. Didn't break the exhaust studs this time.
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Pulled the battery.
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Unmounted the hydroback assembly.
Disconnected the wiring harness and positive battery cable from the starter.
Disconnected the tram pump from the mount on the front.
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Disconnected the PTO pumps from the engine on the rear.
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Removed the 4 bolts that hold the engine mount to the bottom of the tub.
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Started lifting the engine and found one (1) hydraulic hose that goes through the engine mount. Grr.
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Pulled the right rear tire, cleaned the fitting, bagged it and pulled the hose.
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Pulled the engine.
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Took about an hour and a half. Overall, not too bad.
I'm going to get a cap/plug kit and pull the hoses off the pumps, reassemble everything after locating and repairing the oil leak, and put it all back in as one unit. That will be much easier.
I think that Superclean degreaser is amazing at getting oil off. Of course it has lye in it, so eye and skin protection is a must.
I'll power wash it, then wipe it down with something to get any oil off. Doesn't have to be pretty.
