John Deere 430 I just bought

[arto98607]

Update

My plan all along was to service & dismantle my "new" 87 JD 430 enough to be able to inspect hydraulics, drive train, belts, drive shafts etc. in order to repair or replace whatever is needed, in order to make this into a long term use reliable garden tractor.

I have ran into a little difficulty when trying to remove the drive shaft rear yoke from the hydrostatic pump shaft!

It looks like it has never been removed previously, and has gotten stuck in the shaft (IE. rusted in place over 37 years). The front end is already loose and has cleared the engine V-belt pulley so that's not holding it.

I've been spraying WD40 over two or three days and trying to removed it gently, without hammering chisels in too hard in order to loosen the yoke.
Hammering chisels in too hard could easily damage the hydro pump outboard bearing & shaft surface.



Anyone else here who has had to deal with the same issue?


Panels removed for better access:

Two chisels, one on each side of the yoke split:

Lots of WD40, but so far it has not budged:

 

[beenthere]

Not to disappoint you, but WD-40 is not a very good penetrating fluid.

A very good one, but not well known is Blue Creeper, by LogRite

Bluecreeper

Bluecreeper is a penetrating, multipurpose synthetic lubricant designed to creep into tight spaces, loosening rusted or stuck parts while providing ongoing lubrication for the loosened parts to move against each other. It incorporates technology used in today's industrial lubricants, coupled...

logrite.com

Another is Kroil.

But heat may be needed if absolutely necessary to get it to move off those spines.

Wish you well. Admiral plan to try to do this up right.

 

[BravoXray]

Is there room to get a ball joint removal tool, or pickle for in between the yoke and housing and put some pressure on it?

 

[dodge man]

Can you do something on the other end to get some pull on it?

 

[5030]

Update

My plan all along was to service & dismantle my "new" 87 JD 430 enough to be able to inspect hydraulics, drive train, belts, drive shafts etc. in order to repair or replace whatever is needed, in order to make this into a long term use reliable garden tractor.

I have ran into a little difficulty when trying to remove the drive shaft rear yoke from the hydrostatic pump shaft!

It looks like it has never been removed previously, and has gotten stuck in the shaft (IE. rusted in place over 37 years). The front end is already loose and has cleared the engine V-belt pulley so that's not holding it.

I've been spraying WD40 over two or three days and trying to removed it gently, without hammering chisels in too hard in order to loosen the yoke.
Hammering chisels in too hard could easily damage the hydro pump outboard bearing & shaft surface.



Anyone else here who has had to deal with the same issue?


Panels removed for better access:
View attachment 883292


Two chisels, one on each side of the yoke split:
View attachment 883293


Lots of WD40, but so far it has not budged:
View attachment 883294

Arto.... From personal experience, mix up equal parts of red Auto trans fluid and Acetone in a spritz bottle and apply that to the stuck part and do it over a couple days. That mixture has to be the best unlocking solution ever made. I keep a spritz bottle handy all the time now. You will have to agitate it prior to using as it will separate if left sitting. Better than even PBlaster and much, much cheaper...

You gonna add a fuel polishing filter to it like you did to your F Series? Get the IFJF filter base from Amazon and add the 2 micron Racor filter (also on Amazon) and be happy. For me, under 30 bucks for the base is better than 120 for the Racor base anytime... Besides, I'm cheap.

 

[arto98607]

Arto.... From personal experience, mix up equal parts of red Auto trans fluid and Acetone in a spritz bottle and apply that to the stuck part and do it over a couple days. That mixture has to be the best unlocking solution ever made. I keep a spritz bottle handy all the time now. You will have to agitate it prior to using as it will separate if left sitting. Better than even PBlaster and much, much cheaper...

You gonna add a fuel polishing filter to it like you did to your F Series? Get the IFJF filter base from Amazon and add the 2 micron Racor filter (also on Amazon) and be happy. For me, under 30 bucks for the base is better than 120 for the Racor base anytime... Besides, I'm cheap.

Thank you, I will make a mixture like that and give it a try!


The fuel filter on these is a 10 micron & has a water separator - I will change the filter now, but probably leave it as is for the time being.

Think I've seen these in some GM products, but not sure which company came up with this boxy style filter and have often wondered about that.

Could it be Denso?

Edit:
It is Stanadyne Model 80
Replacement filter part No. 27288, John Deere part no. AM101004




Cross Reference:

 

[arto98607]

Is there room to get a ball joint removal tool, or pickle for in between the yoke and housing and put some pressure on it?

Can you do something on the other end to get some pull on it?

I don't think it's advisable to start pulling or prying the pump input shaft outward too hard, at least at this point yet - I have tried prying it just enough to notice there is a spring loading pulling it back towards the pump!

Still studying the Sundstrand Series 15 Model 90 manual I found online and checking YouTube videos to see if anything is mentioned about axial thrust or pull, but so far no luck.




Here's the other end of the shaft:


It's a tight fit but according to JD manual it will come out, once the other end yoke is off the shaft.

 

[dodge man]

Just thinking out loud I pictured doing something on the other end of the shaft. I assume it has a u joint also? Putting something through the u joint that lets you pull or hammer on to get a straight pull. My guess is a good pull will pop it off.

 

[arto98607]

Just thinking out loud I pictured doing something on the other end of the shaft. I assume it has a u joint also? Putting something through the u joint that lets you pull or hammer on to get a straight pull. My guess is a good pull will pop it off.

Good idea, holding it back somehow from the back end would help for sure!

There was nothing at the back end of the "input shaft", behind the hydro pump (see the middle photo in post #11 above), but the spline indicates there may have been rear PTO shaft connected at one time?


I am getting a good used spare driveshaft delivered in few days and perhaps the yoke on that one can be attached temporarily in order to hold back the pump shaft.

Than you, I will keep you all posted!

 

[Richard001]

In addition to 5030's suggestion, after applying the mixture, smack the U-joint in the area where it is over the input shaft, with something heavy. But you will need an assistant for this as you MUST have something even heaver on the opposite side of the U-joint to absorb the energy.

I suppose you could place a sturdy jackstand under the U-joint and then lower the tractor down until it is resting on the stand, then hit the top of the U-joint.

Heat will also work, but I would be afraid of ruining the oil seals on the input shaft.

Richard