Does anybody tow a 10,000lb trailer with a F150?

[Rebeldad1]

I have a low mile 4 door long bed 1999 F350 dually. It's a Powerstroke 7.3ltr with a 6 speed manual transmission, 4 wheel drive and a Dana70 limited slip rear axle.
It works great for towing a 20' trailer and mini excavator (10,000lbs ).
As i'm getting older my needs are changing. I would like to downsize the truck from a 4 door to a super cab or smaller 4door ( no more kids family to haul around ) and because of upcoming knee problems a automatic transmission would be nice. A diesel would be nice but not a priority anymore since I don't need to tow much anymore.
I see the newer F150s are as big as the F250s and some the tow ratings are over 10,000lbs. I also see the used F150s show up with traction control more than the F250s do. This is a must but could be easily added if need be.
I have a steep and challenging driveway the F350 has always towed the excavator up but am skeptical of a smaller truck

Any input from you experienced guys would be helpful... so would be a smaller truck to handle.

 

[CADplans]

At least you asked,,
But,, SINCE you asked,,,,
YOU KNOW the answer,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, NO!!

 

[ning]

I think you'd be crazy to downsize. Then again, I've got a '97 crew cab long bed 4x4 7.3....
I personally think that the utility of having the truck just for occasional use offsets its relatively little residual $ value.
I'd be more likely to buy a second vehicle that meets the rest of your needs and still use the big truck for the occasional mini-ex towing.

 

[Midniteoyl]

While I have towed over 10500lbs in a dump trailer (so, 14+k lbs?) behind a 2019 F150 with a 10400 lb rating, I don't recommend it. I am currently thinking up upgrading to a F250 for my 14k trailer.

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[notaz3]

I've towed 8,970 pounds (Cat scaled trailer weight, unhooked) with my 2014 F150, without a problem.
Anything over that and I switch to the 250 and fifth wheel or gooseneck.

 

[newbury]

I'm in a similar situation.
2002 7.3L, F350 dually w~155K pulling either a 12K equipment trailer or a 10K cargo trailer. But was wanting to "upgrade" to a newer ride.
BUT I'm not thinking of getting rid of the 7.3, I'd keep that as long as possible.
And I see the 2025 3.5L ecoboost rated at UP TO 13,500lbs.

I'd suggest you find a F150 equipped similar to what you want and either rent or test drive to see how it handles the trailer and the hill.

Then let your wallet decide.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

And I see the 2025 3.5L ecoboost rated at UP TO 13,500lbs.

Then let your wallet decide.

Unfortunately the contents of the wallet can't overcome simple physics.

Towing is best done with a heavy vehicle with a long wheelbase. That rules out any 1/2-ton. Unless actually believing the skewed J2807 test results.

That the 3.5 liter will be wheezing and use more gas than a 460 would (and those could really drink) is almost irrelevant. That'll just make the trip take longer, but isn't dangerous per se.

 

[newbury]

You left out part.

I'd suggest you find a F150 equipped similar to what you want and either rent or test drive to see how it handles the trailer and the hill.

When you leave out parts of a quote it can really change the meaning. For example:

Towing is best done with the 3.5 liter.

I don't know how much he wants a new truck, needs a new truck, how often he tows, etc.
But if he could rent one to test it for "the hill" he might appreciate the 7.3.

 

[deserteagle71]

I have had both, for several years now. A 2016 F150 Supercab with the 3.5 Ecoboost. And a 2004 Dodge/Cummins dually. I have towed 12,000 lbs with the F150 when the Dodge had a camper mounted on it and I was too lazy to take it off. The F150 pulled it easily...that 3.5 Ecoboost puts out amazing torque at low rpms. But I'd describe the experience as "the tail wagging the dog". Despite the tow rating the suspension on an F150 is designed more for a comfortable ride and not for stable towing. That same 12,000 lbs behind the Dodge/Cummins is a much better towing experience - very stable despite cross winds and passing 18 wheelers.

I would recommend holding on to the 7.3 Powerstroke. Use it only when you need to, and get another vehicle for the light duties.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

I had to complete a house move under the WORST circumstance imaginable a few years back. December in the Rockies at 9.5Kft with 100mph wind gusts. I had to go over several winding death drop passes, including Vail pass heading west. I rented a 25ft enclosed trailer, bought some E rated Nokian studded snow tires and a weight distribution hitch. 250 miles each way and had to do the trip five times to complete the move.

Oh and I'd never towed with this truck before (2018 4x4 f-150 with tow package and locking rear diff)

I own a lot of heavy crap and I estimated the trailer and contents at about 10-11,000lbs on a couple of the runs. The truck was rated to tow 12,000lbs IIRC.

I kept an eye on that wind forecast. You can see from the attached pics what the wind does to the unsuspecting.

Pretty sure I have PTSD from the experience. That wind will blow over a semi.

Anyway, the 3.5 EB had more than enough power. It controlled the speed on vail pass decent OK (2nd gear). But the suspension just wasn't up for it. Just the vacuum from passing RV's or box trucks would cause the rig to wander in lane. It was a harrowing experience that I don't want to have to repeat, but we did make it.

 

[deezler]

How often do you really move the excavator around? If just a few times per year, I bet you could manage.

Like others have already said, the towing stability and stopping power are a bit sketchy with a half-ton towing over 10k lbs, basically due to the weight proportions. But my 2019 F150 with the 3.5L EcoBoost is rated to 11k lbs, and I'm excited to try it out next time I need to move my tractor or borrow a dump trailer for some gravel loads.

The 3.5L ecoboost is a beast, tons of low end torque, especially through the new 10 speed trans, which is proving reliable so far. So it will definitely PULL hard, and I bet can get up your driveway pulling the mini-ex, with proper tires and 4WD.

If you do it, I would recommend: the longer 157" wheelbase (crew cab, 6.5' bed), 3.5L ecoboost, towing package or max-tow (doesn't change capability all that much), avoid the fancy truck trims because they cut your payload (IE, tongue weight capacity), add helper air-bags or roadmaster active suspension, run load range E tires. And a weight distributing hitch of course.

I don't tow heavy loads very often (just for my hobby ranchin') so I made the same move myself, sold my beloved 2500HD that got 12 mpg so I could have much more comfort and safety in a modern F150 that gets 20 mpg.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I don't tow heavy loads very often (just for my hobby ranchin') so I made the same move myself, sold my beloved 2500HD that got 12 mpg so I could have much more comfort and safety in a modern F150 that gets 20 mpg.

Yes, towing often with the Ecoboost will surely be a disappointment in the mpg department.

Having driven the same 1,000-mile stretch on a bi-weekly basis for a couple of years, generally pulling the 16' enclosed trailer with a Ram 2500 gasser, I knew quite well what to expect mileage wise.

Was asked to try it with a new Ecoboost, and did with some hesitation. It pulled well enough up the grades, as others have mentioned above, but what really surprised me was that the little V6 used about 20% more gas than my V8.

So used as a car the F-150 did fine, used as a pickup, not so much. Also, despite having a rear axle about 2/3 the size of my 2500's and weighing quite a bit less, the F-150 had a higher tow rating. Couldn't help but wonder for how long it'd live if towing with it more than very infrequently.

 

[Snobdds]

I have both a F150 with the ecoboost and a diesel with the 6.7.

The F150 can do it power wise, but it doesn't have the suspension to do it. It's too soft.

You want a rigid platform for towing...a half ton does not provide that.

 

[deezler]

Was asked to try it with a new Ecoboost, and did with some hesitation. It pulled well enough up the grades, as others have mentioned above, but what really surprised me was that the little V6 used about 20% more gas than my V8.

Yeah, heavy towing fuel economy with the ecoBoost engines is a well known weak spot. They have to enrich the air-fuel mixture quite a bit in order to keep the pistons/valves/turbo cool enough. Whereas a larger displacement, naturally-aspirated engine doesn't have the same thermal issues and can stay leaner for the same power output.

But I feel like a lot of folks also do a poot job of towing with EcoBoost engines; it is critical to lock out the higher gears (hit the "-" button on the manual shift selection and you see the top gears lock out with each click). I usually tow our camper in 7th gear, and lock out 8, 9 and 10. Reason being, the engine and trans are plenty happy making enough power with lower engine rpm's, BUT, this forces the engine into positive boost, and you start using extra fuel. If you can just rev that 3.5L v6 a bit higher and keep boost under ~3-4 psi, you'll save a lot of fuel.

Employing this strategy, I get ~10-12 mpg pulling our 4500 lb, 21' camper, whereas my old 2500HD (6.0L v8 through a 4-spd trans) would get 8-10 mpg doing the same trips.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Yeah, heavy towing fuel economy with the ecoBoost engines is a well known weak spot. They have to enrich the air-fuel mixture quite a bit in order to keep the pistons/valves/turbo cool enough. Whereas a larger displacement, naturally-aspirated engine doesn't have the same thermal issues and can stay leaner for the same power output.

But I feel like a lot of folks also do a poot job of towing with EcoBoost engines; it is critical to lock out the higher gears (hit the "-" button on the manual shift selection and you see the top gears lock out with each click). I usually tow our camper in 7th gear, and lock out 8, 9 and 10. Reason being, the engine and trans are plenty happy making enough power with lower engine rpm's, BUT, this forces the engine into positive boost, and you start using extra fuel. If you can just rev that 3.5L v6 a bit higher and keep boost under ~3-4 psi, you'll save a lot of fuel.

Employing this strategy, I get ~10-12 mpg pulling our 4500 lb, 21' camper, whereas my old 2500HD (6.0L v8 through a 4-spd trans) would get 8-10 mpg doing the same trips.

Ya, the 5.0 with a 10 speed, 'Tow Mode' locks out 9 & 10 and forces the trans to rev higher during up shift, and drop gears faster while braking.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yeah, heavy towing fuel economy with the ecoBoost engines is a well known weak spot.

Employing this strategy, I get ~10-12 mpg pulling our 4500 lb, 21' camper, whereas my old 2500HD (6.0L v8 through a 4-spd trans) would get 8-10 mpg doing the same trips.

Well, that wasn't heavy towing by a long shot. Probably had some 4.000 to 5,000 lbs. in the trailer, at the most. Of course, wind resistance is usually a bigger factor with enclosed trailers than the weight is.

Around 10-12 mpg was what my 2500 with a 5.7 and 6-speed auto got when pulling that trailer. In comparison, my current 3500 Cummins gets similar mileage pulling 10,000 to 20,000 lbs...and doing 80 mph whenever possible.

Either way, knowing that with the 3500 towing anything is a whole lot safer than it would be with a 1/2-ton kind of makes the mpg numbers irrelevant.

I do a lot of stupid stuff here at home and pretty much on a daily basis, but if/when something happens it won't hurt anyone else. When out on the road towing, it very well could.

 

[dodge man]

Yes you can get a F150 that will tow 10,000 pounds. First ignore all the hype on towing and payload numbers advertised. In theory they make a truck that has those numbers but no one buys them, it a 2 door XL, 2 wheel drive, payload package, max tow, 3.5 eco boost. The things to look for are a high payload, look at the door sticker, of at least 2000 pounds or close. Look for a factory tow package, if it has the trailer backup knob is the easy way to tell.

You will also need a weight distribution hitch.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yes you can get a F150 that will tow 10,000 pounds. First ignore all the hype on towing and payload numbers advertised.

Welllll, "will tow" according to J2807, but is it smart to try doing it?

It's kinda sad that so many fall for those advertised numbers. And that very few actually use the required weight distributing hitch.

 

[Chewwy]

Scale model testing indicates that the tounge weight needs to be between 10% and 15% of the towed vehicles weight to be stable. My experience indicates in needs to be at least 12%.

When towing 10,000 lbs, you would need at least 1,200 lbs on the hitch.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yes, more tongue weight is definitely preferable...if the tow vehicle can handle it.