F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information

[Seven Gables]

300 gallons / 6.06 acres = 49.5 gallons/acre
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15 ft/row X 200 feet = 3000 sq.ft/row

3000 sq.ft/row X 88 rows = 264,000 sq.ft

264,000 sq.ft / 43,560 sq.ft/Ac = 6.06 acres

used 300 gallons to spray...

300 gallons / 6.06 acres = 49.5 gpa (gallons per acre)

Yep exactly right

 

[r8f1k]

There’s so many aspects to growing high quality fruit trees it’s hard for me to even know where to start. First thing I think it’s very important that you get your private pesticide applicators license, without it you don’t have access to the spray materials you’re going to need and the knowledgeable people that sell them.
Do you have any way to weed spray under your trees to eliminate the competition for water and nutrients that they impose.? If not how much of that 1000lbs of fertilizer you bought and spread did the trees get and how much did the weeds steal? Same with rainfall, are the weeds sucking up the little bit you got and robbing it from the trees? Maintaining a clean orchard floor under your trees is important to maximize the nutrients and water that is available to the trees. You’re going to need a license to buy the best herbicides.
Few pics of what my orchard floor looks like

I have used herbicide in the past, but I had mixed results. I will work on getting my license. I have recently built a swing arm mower that cuts in between the rows, it bumps the trees and swings out of the way. I have irrigation divided up into 9 zones and the hoses are buried under mulch that is in-between the trees. I would like to keep the orchard floor cleaner than it currently is. What do you use to keep the weeds down?

 

[Seven Gables]

I have used herbicide in the past, but I had mixed results. I will work on getting my license. I have recently built a swing arm mower that cuts in between the rows, it bumps the trees and swings out of the way. I have irrigation divided up into 9 zones and the hoses are buried under mulch that is in-between the trees. I would like to keep the orchard floor cleaner than it currently is. What do you use to keep the weeds down?

First step in weed control is weed identification. As I’m driving thru orchard mowing , spraying, grinding or pushing prunings etc im always looking and identifying what weeds are making a comeback , roughly figure what the most prevalent 3 or 4 species overall are at least. Then look up what herbicides give best control of these . I most always use a combination of them because no single herbicide that’s labeled for stone fruits gets them all.
I also always use both a post emergence and pre emergence type. Pre emergence herbicides stop the seeds from germinating and are key to keeping a weed free zone under the canopy. Some of pre emergence ones I use ; Cheteau, Matrix, Simizine, Alion. Need to keep rotating them and usually use two different ones at same time. Post emergence; Venue, Roundup, Stinger, 2–4D . Usually use 2-3 from the post emergence group also at same time.
Weeds are masters of efficiency and survivors, got to stay on top of them.
MSU puts out fruit growers guide that is super informative, covers both tree spraying and weed spraying. Rates all the popular spray materials as to there efficacy. I’m always referencing it. I would imagine Wisconsin has something similar.

 

[r8f1k]

Another issue I have found is inside of the fiberglass tank. The tube that runs the length of the tank which houses the driveshaft for the fan, has some cracks in it. Some are pretty good sized, but the fiberglass is very thick. I would like to do some proactive sealing up to prevent leaks down the road.

My plan was to spray the affected areas with acetone in and roll on some fiberglass resin to fill the cracks. If I can reach it, I will attempt to apply some fiberglass mesh and resin. I think with a 6" roller and a long handle, I can get most of the cracks taken care of. Any thoughts?

In the last couple of days I have handled a number of issues.
1) Pump 'resealed' with new o-rings and cups.
2) All 1-1/2 intake pipe replaced with new galvanized pipe as well as the intake hose from tank to pre-filter.
3) New 3/4" solenoid valves. (I know motor valves were recommended, but for the price point and the luck I have had in the past with the same units, I will give these a try until I can upgrade to TeeJet.)
4) Disassembled and cleaned the pressure regulator
5) All new bypass plumbing, hose and hose barbs from regulator to tank.
6) New 3/4" JIC fittings and hydraulic rated hose from pressure side of pump to the 3/4" feed lines.
7) Tank was rinsed out for 30 minutes with an older lawn sprinkler which was able to reach all internal sides of the tank. Water ran very clear by the last 10 minutes.

There is some sediment on the lower walls of the tank that looks like greasy residue or scale. I think it is left over spray mixture that dried inside. Hot water power washing only removed a little of it. I don't want to have a bad chemical reaction, but I have heard that ammonia or Round Up can be sprayed on sticky spots of sprayer tanks to emulsify spots like this. Which would be preferred? Or leave it alone?

There is also a center drain in the middle of the tank that is a little worn. I am concerned that this is where the tank has been routinely drained and the threads are a little loose. Once I am done with the fiberglass repair, I plan on threading in a 1-1/2" PVC bushing to adapt a 1-1/2" pipe to the back of the tank so I can add a remote ball valve. This will prevent me from having to crawl under and drain by unscrewing a plug and instead simply turning a valve to drain.

 

[r8f1k]

Pump and new pressure gauge

 

[r8f1k]

Some new plumbing

 

[r8f1k]

Lower suction side and nozzle ports. I was able to get all but one pipe nipple out. Someone capped the outside of a nozzle port with a 1/2” pipe cap roughly threaded on. I pulled that off and I couldn’t get a drill bit through. I tried a Dremel and I was able to expose the end of a broken tap. Sweet. Took a little doing, but I was able to work it loose and pull it out. I retapped that port and installed a new pipe nipple.

 

[r8f1k]

Here is the patch. Not sure how well it holds. I might just leave it alone if it doesn’t leak. Otherwise I’m going to have to do some fiberglass work

 

[r8f1k]

Here is some info on your new sprayer.
A source for Myers parts is:

Your one stop pump shop and equipment

atlanticpump.net

If they don't work, DM me and I can see if some of the guys I know out here in California can help. A lot of the Myers and Bean pumps soraying orchards and vineyards here wuth them still.

TractorTech, I initially saw your post and the links to Atlantic Pump, but the images were not visible. After reading some of these posts again, I can now see the images! I did not know that the tank is 400 gallons, I thought it was 300. I would have been off by 25% for all of my sprays. THANK YOU!!!! There is a 'sight glass' on the front of the tank, I replaced it with some clear 3/8" tubing to make it easier to see. I would LOVE to make it so I can determine how much is in the tank using the sight glass at 50 gallon increments. My thought was to find a flow meter and fill the tank with a hose using just water and making marks at every 50 gallons on the sight glass. Any other recommendations on a way to do that?

 

[r8f1k]

I have a very large air compressor in my shop. We use it for a variety of things, but it comes in handy the most when we blow out our irrigation lines in the fall. I am considering adding an air line connection on this sprayer to aid in winterizing the unit. Any reason to not add one? Bad idea? Recommended other winterizing techniques?