F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information

[Seven Gables]

I have a very large air compressor in my shop. We use it for a variety of things, but it comes in handy the most when we blow out our irrigation lines in the fall. I am considering adding an air line connection on this sprayer to aid in winterizing the unit. Any reason to not add one? Bad idea? Recommended other winterizing techniques?

Probably not a bad idea just have to make sure it got air pressure to all piping including the pressure regulator relief hose. I’m fortunate enough to have a heated 40x60 shop that I store both my Myers weed sprayer and Turbomist airblast sprayer in. Before I had this I would drain the rinse water then add red rv antifreeze and pump thru all piping.

 

[r8f1k]

Got it, unfortunately I don't have a heated space for my sprayer. I can flush the system with red RV antifreeze, that's what I did with the FMC in the past.

 

[r8f1k]

Update: hole in tank is repaired, the patch that was there did begin to weep after a short time. Pulled out the rubber patch and the steel plate that held it in and all of it was rotten on the inside.

The rear tank strap and fan support has been remade and tack welded, ready to go.

I made a new line in from the pump to the 3/4” lines, solenoids are in, new pipe is in and the rear cast iron strainers are cleaned and in. I also remade the 3/4” hoses that connect the rigid pipe to the strainers. I don’t have new rubber hose to pipe seals yet. They are larger than regular garden hose gaskets/rubbers. Going to have to do a little research.

 

[r8f1k]

New solenoids

 

[r8f1k]

Hole repair

 

[r8f1k]

Rear tank brace

 

[Seven Gables]

Looking good, I can appreciate all the time and work you’ve put into the project, I’d say the worst is behind you . It looks like the adjustable air deflectors that would mount to the steel rod at top center of air outlet are missing. I’d strongly recommend finding some or custom making some if originals are unavailable. These would greatly improve the efficiency of the air delivery from the fan by diverting the airstream that’s going to be wasted blowing up and instead directing it towards your 10’ dwarf trees. You would be able to run the unit at a lower RPM and HP requirement with these installed which I believe is going to be important with your 45hp tractor.

 

[r8f1k]

Looking good, I can appreciate all the time and work you’ve put into the project, I’d say the worst is behind you . It looks like the adjustable air deflectors that would mount to the steel rod at top center of air outlet are missing. I’d strongly recommend finding some or custom making some if originals are unavailable. These would greatly improve the efficiency of the air delivery from the fan by diverting the airstream that’s going to be wasted blowing up and instead directing it towards your 10’ dwarf trees. You would be able to run the unit at a lower RPM and HP requirement with these installed which I believe is going to be important with your 45hp tractor.

It took quite a bit of careful removal techniques to get that steel rod off. Those nuts and bolts were very rusted and cutting them off carefully was the best way to prevent breaking or damaging the fiberglass. Once it was off, the original 'bases' of the deflectors were RUSTED on the shaft. I had to get them glowing with my torch.

I am sure I can remake deflectors, I know the width, but I don't know the length. I could guess the approximate length, but if anyone saw photos or had one, it would be ideal. I have some 1/2" stainless pipe and 1/8" stainless sheet that I could make them out of. I found that the bases of the deflectors had holes in them, I assume to put some sort of set screw in to adjust them on the hexagonal shaft. I can add something like that no problem.

Yesterday saw the first coat of paint on the top half of the machine. I was able to find a couple pieces of original color underneath some covers in the front half of the sprayer. I have a pretty good set of Pantones and I matched it with Dutch Boy paint. It isn't the BEST paint, but it will stick well enough for now. Decals, might be something I could make, but we will see......

 

[r8f1k]

One question, on the back of the sprayer tank, there is a thick coating of something that WILL NOT come off with anything short of a scraper. I THINK, but I am not sure that it is a combination of grease from the fan bearing, old pesticide, but there is something else. I think it is a surfactant. Mineral spirits will not do anything, Good Gone won't touch it, alcohol or ammonia equals nothing. Yep Purple Cleaner helps a fair amount, but doesn't penetrate. It makes the darker spots drip with some indication that it is working, but the scab-like material stays well adhered to the tank. Long winded, but what IS this stuff? Is there a way to prevent it in the future? I am going to use a latex paint which might not be the best to hold up, but any thoughts?

 

[Seven Gables]

It took quite a bit of careful removal techniques to get that steel rod off. Those nuts and bolts were very rusted and cutting them off carefully was the best way to prevent breaking or damaging the fiberglass. Once it was off, the original 'bases' of the deflectors were RUSTED on the shaft. I had to get them glowing with my torch.

I am sure I can remake deflectors, I know the width, but I don't know the length. I could guess the approximate length, but if anyone saw photos or had one, it would be ideal. I have some 1/2" stainless pipe and 1/8" stainless sheet that I could make them out of. I found that the bases of the deflectors had holes in them, I assume to put some sort of set screw in to adjust them on the hexagonal shaft. I can add something like that no problem.

Yesterday saw the first coat of paint on the top half of the machine. I was able to find a couple pieces of original color underneath some covers in the front half of the sprayer. I have a pretty good set of Pantones and I matched it with Dutch Boy paint. It isn't the BEST paint, but it will stick well enough for now. Decals, might be something I could make, but we will see......

Those deflectors should be wide enough to span the width of the air stream outlet from tank to fan housing. I’ve never seen them on a Myers sprayer but I think 9-10” long would be about right.
Those holes in that plate are the adjustment holes, I’m sure they were held in by that spring on the shaft. The deflectors would need a rod welded to them to engage the holes. You would want to adjust them to be parallel with the aim of the uppermost nozzle you are spraying with. Looks like you’re not going to use the top 2 nozzles on each side??

Hard to say what combination of materials are stuck to the tank but if whatever you’re spraying is allowed to set and dry on it is generally a mother bear to remove.