Restarting My '70 Nova Project

   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#781  
Nice job on the restoration!
If you lived near me, I would let you use my mill! However, then I would probably catch a bunch of ribbing from you about "why don't I restore that 66 Chevy" sitting in the garage!
David from jax
Thanks, I appreciate the comments.
A '66 Chevy? Impala, Chevelle, Chevy II?
I had a '66 Impala SS 396 back in 1968, beautiful car, Marina Blue with white bucket seat interior, loved that car. Unfortunately, I had a rear tire disintegrate at 55 MPH one Sunday morning, and I went off the road and rolled it twice. Needless to say, it was totaled.

1966 Chevy Impala SS 396.jpg
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#782  
Maybe the rest of us should "rib" sandman to restore his 66 Chevy and document it here. Jon

Sounds good to me!

I wish you were closer Sandman, I would love to give you a hand on the '66.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #783  
Maybe the rest of us should "rib" sandman to restore his 66 Chevy and document it here. Jon
The ability to put a thread on ignore still exists!
In my defense, I did come across a pair of Chevy 327's located in LeClair, IA to go into said 66 Chevy, and have gotten them moved as far as Ruthledge, TN. They were supposed to make the trip here last week, but due to time constraints, they got bumped off the truck. They are currently scheduled for last part of April 2025, and from there, one will go into a machine shop to get readied for it's installation into the car. The current motor is a 1969 350, which has some minor but obvious diferences. It has about 35k on a rebuild, but I thought putting the right block and original double hump heads in the car might improve it's value. Doing a complete rebuild in 3 years is probably not in my wheelhouse, my hat is off to BravoXray as it takes a lot of dedication to be able to do that. I just want to have a reasonable driver car, to go on Sunday afternoon drives with my bride. (drove that car on our honeymoon)
Now...if I had some of the members money, I could just send it off for a year and have it restored to pristine condition with a lotta jack. I prefer to keep my 66 Chevy in my toy money area, versus being a required tool.
David from jax
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #784  
Doing a complete rebuild in 3 years is probably not in my wheelhouse, my hat is off to BravoXray as it takes a lot of dedication to be able to do that. I just want to have a reasonable driver car, to go on Sunday afternoon drives with my bride. (drove that car on our honeymoon)
David from jax
Wedding day, back in summer of 1982.
 

Attachments

  • 20230203_143358.jpg
    20230203_143358.jpg
    3.6 MB · Views: 121
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #785  
Shortly after buying that 66 Chevy, I came across another one, on the way to visit in-laws relatives. It was a 65 Chevy in pretty poor shape as far as the body but still had the original motor. I couldn't talk my new bride into buying a second one, even at $1500, with it looking like that. I tried to get all of my known friends and acquaintances to buy it, to no avail. I knew it would be a good deal with that motor, but to no avail. It finally sold and was hauled off to the Dallas, TX area. It was one of the few with a 396 motor in it, between the 350 fuelie and the 427 big block.
David from jax
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #786  
Why do you keep calling it a chevy instead of a corvette ? Is it not a corvette in the picture you posted ?
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #789  
Damn, you look so young!😂☮️✌🏻
Actually, neither my Bride or myself are in the pictures. Those were some of the wedding party doing injustices to my car. The guy with the beard was the previous owner, and I entrusted the keys to him so that he could keep an eye on it while they decorated it for our departure. They filled the car with balloons and unbeknownst to him, put Tide in the vent below the wipers. Once we started moving, the Tide reacted with the rubber of the balloons and they started popping. Was not a graceful departure after we reached about 30 mph.
David from jax
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #791  
I grew up as a Chevy fan, and it was 2011 before I bought my first Ford pickup that I actually drove.
Today, I helped my Bride's Cousin start up his late Daddy's 49 F1 pickup. Once we got it started, that flathead purred like a kitten! We also started and drove his Daddy's 1954 Skyliner. It ran surprisingly well, a lot better than I expected since I hadn't seen it run since his Daddy had passed. Somebody had been keeping it running apparently. The truck will go home with the son, and the Skyliner will probably go up for sale.
I am wondering if I need another Ford...
David from jax
I will try to post a picture of the truck and car if BravoXray doesn't mind.
 
Last edited:
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#793  
It got into the high 40s today, the roads were mostly dry, so I moved the tractors out and took the Nova for a 20 mile drive. It's only the second time I've driven it since dropping in the new engine, it runs great and no leaks.
Last week I added an overflow tank for the radiator, Made a bracket out of a piece of 16ga. aluminum to mount the tank, and ran apiece of 5/16" line over to the radiator neck fitting.
I might even take it out tomorrow too, as it's supposed to be in the upper 40s again and no rain.

IMG_20250225_124738886_HDR.jpg


IMG_20250206_145456343_HDR.jpg
IMG_20250210_150301879.jpg
IMG_20250210_152339534_HDR.jpg
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #794  
Awesome, I took a couple of my winter stored cars out of the garage here in Eastern Ontario, and let them warm up good and moved them around the driveway to keep everything lubed up and rolling free. Looking forward to the time change and an early spring.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#795  
Well, a gremlin has popped up in the electrical system in the Nova. When the key is turned to the accessory position, the screen on the EFI hand controller flashes on and off a couuple of times a second. I pulled the EFI fuse and found there was about 3 volts being fed into the ignition circuit. After a lot of head scratching and looking at wiring diagrams, I found that if I pulled the fuse for the dome lights, it stopped. The only connection the two circuits have is that the dome light dimmer is connected to the ignition circuit so that the dome light will go out when the key is turned to the on or accessory position. So, I figured that if I put a diode in the ignition feed to the dome light controller, that should stop it. In addition, the backlighting on the instrument cluster backlighting was really dim. As much as I hated to do it, the dash was going to have to come out to get access to the dome light module and the backlight bulbs. I got it out, replaced the bulbs with LEDs, installed a diode in the ignition feed lead, and made a few other changes to clean up the wiring. Confident all was fixed, and before I put the dash back in, I tried the switch in the accessory position, and no flashing. Great!
I put it all back together, but when I tried it again, the flashing was back. Plus, now the wipers don't work.
Many NSFW expletives followed.
The fuse on the wipers was blown, so I checked the wires on the wiper motor and switch and found no problem, I replaced the fuse and as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, it blew. On the Nova, power is applied to the wiper motor whenever the switch is on, and it is controlled by the switch supplying a ground to either the low or high speed windings, or both.
After stewing about it for a few days, I decided to bite the bullet and pull the dash back out. I had thought that somehow a wire had gotten pinched causing the short, but found no problem, and the short went away when I unplugged the wires from the wiper motor. So, it seems the motor just all of a sudden went shorted internally, even though it had worked fine whenever I had tried it before. I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and tear it down to see what the problem is, and if I can fix it. It's 55 years old, so I'm sure the warranty has expired. Fortunately, if I need a new one, they are readily available and not expensive.
As for the ignition backfeed, I'm going to try a few things to see if I can figure out where it is coming from. Since the wiper delay module and the radio delay module are also connected to the ignition circuit, maybe its one of them causing the problem, but I don't think they are connected to the dome light circuit. The puzzling thing though, is that it doesn't happen with the instrument cluster disconnected, but that only connects to the turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, fuel gauge, idiot lights and backlights. the only bulb directly connected to the ignition circuit with the engine off is the generator light, but the wire that grounds it to make it come on isn't connected.

Color me puzzled....

IMG_20250317_165211131_HDR.jpg
IMG_20250321_144314226_BURST001.jpg
IMG_20250322_172639716.jpg
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #797  
Well, a gremlin has popped up in the electrical system in the Nova. When the key is turned to the accessory position, the screen on the EFI hand controller flashes on and off a couuple of times a second. I pulled the EFI fuse and found there was about 3 volts being fed into the ignition circuit. After a lot of head scratching and looking at wiring diagrams, I found that if I pulled the fuse for the dome lights, it stopped. The only connection the two circuits have is that the dome light dimmer is connected to the ignition circuit so that the dome light will go out when the key is turned to the on or accessory position. So, I figured that if I put a diode in the ignition feed to the dome light controller, that should stop it. In addition, the backlighting on the instrument cluster backlighting was really dim. As much as I hated to do it, the dash was going to have to come out to get access to the dome light module and the backlight bulbs. I got it out, replaced the bulbs with LEDs, installed a diode in the ignition feed lead, and made a few other changes to clean up the wiring. Confident all was fixed, and before I put the dash back in, I tried the switch in the accessory position, and no flashing. Great!
I put it all back together, but when I tried it again, the flashing was back. Plus, now the wipers don't work.
Many NSFW expletives followed.
The fuse on the wipers was blown, so I checked the wires on the wiper motor and switch and found no problem, I replaced the fuse and as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, it blew. On the Nova, power is applied to the wiper motor whenever the switch is on, and it is controlled by the switch supplying a ground to either the low or high speed windings, or both.
After stewing about it for a few days, I decided to bite the bullet and pull the dash back out. I had thought that somehow a wire had gotten pinched causing the short, but found no problem, and the short went away when I unplugged the wires from the wiper motor. So, it seems the motor just all of a sudden went shorted internally, even though it had worked fine whenever I had tried it before. I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and tear it down to see what the problem is, and if I can fix it. It's 55 years old, so I'm sure the warranty has expired. Fortunately, if I need a new one, they are readily available and not expensive.
As for the ignition backfeed, I'm going to try a few things to see if I can figure out where it is coming from. Since the wiper delay module and the radio delay module are also connected to the ignition circuit, maybe its one of them causing the problem, but I don't think they are connected to the dome light circuit. The puzzling thing though, is that it doesn't happen with the instrument cluster disconnected, but that only connects to the turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, fuel gauge, idiot lights and backlights. the only bulb directly connected to the ignition circuit with the engine off is the generator light, but the wire that grounds it to make it come on isn't connected.

Color me puzzled....

View attachment 3221498View attachment 3221499View attachment 3221500
We think if anyone can get to the bottom of the issue, it is you! Good luck my friend!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
 
Last edited:
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #798  
Well, a gremlin has popped up in the electrical system in the Nova. When the key is turned to the accessory position, the screen on the EFI hand controller flashes on and off a couuple of times a second. I pulled the EFI fuse and found there was about 3 volts being fed into the ignition circuit. After a lot of head scratching and looking at wiring diagrams, I found that if I pulled the fuse for the dome lights, it stopped. The only connection the two circuits have is that the dome light dimmer is connected to the ignition circuit so that the dome light will go out when the key is turned to the on or accessory position. So, I figured that if I put a diode in the ignition feed to the dome light controller, that should stop it. In addition, the backlighting on the instrument cluster backlighting was really dim. As much as I hated to do it, the dash was going to have to come out to get access to the dome light module and the backlight bulbs. I got it out, replaced the bulbs with LEDs, installed a diode in the ignition feed lead, and made a few other changes to clean up the wiring. Confident all was fixed, and before I put the dash back in, I tried the switch in the accessory position, and no flashing. Great!
I put it all back together, but when I tried it again, the flashing was back. Plus, now the wipers don't work.
Many NSFW expletives followed.
The fuse on the wipers was blown, so I checked the wires on the wiper motor and switch and found no problem, I replaced the fuse and as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, it blew. On the Nova, power is applied to the wiper motor whenever the switch is on, and it is controlled by the switch supplying a ground to either the low or high speed windings, or both.
After stewing about it for a few days, I decided to bite the bullet and pull the dash back out. I had thought that somehow a wire had gotten pinched causing the short, but found no problem, and the short went away when I unplugged the wires from the wiper motor. So, it seems the motor just all of a sudden went shorted internally, even though it had worked fine whenever I had tried it before. I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and tear it down to see what the problem is, and if I can fix it. It's 55 years old, so I'm sure the warranty has expired. Fortunately, if I need a new one, they are readily available and not expensive.
As for the ignition backfeed, I'm going to try a few things to see if I can figure out where it is coming from. Since the wiper delay module and the radio delay module are also connected to the ignition circuit, maybe its one of them causing the problem, but I don't think they are connected to the dome light circuit. The puzzling thing though, is that it doesn't happen with the instrument cluster disconnected, but that only connects to the turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, fuel gauge, idiot lights and backlights. the only bulb directly connected to the ignition circuit with the engine off is the generator light, but the wire that grounds it to make it come on isn't connected.

Color me puzzled....

View attachment 3221498View attachment 3221499View attachment 3221500
Electrical gremlins, especially involving several things are usually bad grounds. Something is turned on, getting a ground through something else causing weird effects.
I have a 1969 Rambler Rogue that had many weird problems. I pulled dash and the circuit board all those 1/4" screws made ground contact for the circuit board.
Years ago I had a '66 Nova similar problems like running wiper the dome light came on very dim, etc.
Bad grounds.
Then that great big socket going through firewall can have corroded contacts. Usually it's one screw (5/16" from memory) you remove and it unplugs.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#799  
The entire wire harness is new, so it can't be corrosion in the bulkhead connector, and it's never been exposed to moisture in the couple of years since it's been installed.
Also, I was VERY diligent in making sure everything was grounded, in fact, just today I checked all the grounds that go to the the instrument cluster and all the add-on modules, dome light dimmer, intermittent wipers, radio delay and keyless door locks, and they all check out with zero resistance.
I pulled the wiper motor off and bench tested it, and it would sometimes work, though very slowly, and finally quit altogether. I pulled to motor off and all looked good, brushes, commutator, armature and field windings. The gear box is sort of riveted together in a dozen places, and getting it apart to check the park switch would probably make it impossible to put back together. I put the motor back together, and I can turn the output arm and hear the motor spin with no rubbing or dragging, but if I apply power it locks up tight, can't turn the arm. So, I ordered a new motor and it should be here in a couple of days. Once I get it and get it reinstalled, I'll make sure it all works and it didn't bork the delay module, if it's okay, I'll reconnect the instrument cluster. but won't reinstall it. If the feedback is gone, I'll get it reinstalled, recheck it at that point. Depending on what happens, I'll proceed from there.

I'll let you know what I find.
 
Last edited:
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #800  
Any update on what you found to be the problem ?
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2020 Ford Ecosport 4WD SUV (A59231)
2020 Ford Ecosport...
25 DUAL AXLE GOOSENECK TRAILER (A58214)
25 DUAL AXLE...
1995 John Deere 7400 (A60462)
1995 John Deere...
2024 PRO FABRICATION RTM-5.2K-Y REEL TRAILER (A59905)
2024 PRO...
207277 (A52708)
207277 (A52708)
EXCAVATOR QUICK DISCONNECT (A58214)
EXCAVATOR QUICK...
 
Top