Restarting My '70 Nova Project

   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #791  
I grew up as a Chevy fan, and it was 2011 before I bought my first Ford pickup that I actually drove.
Today, I helped my Bride's Cousin start up his late Daddy's 49 F1 pickup. Once we got it started, that flathead purred like a kitten! We also started and drove his Daddy's 1954 Skyliner. It ran surprisingly well, a lot better than I expected since I hadn't seen it run since his Daddy had passed. Somebody had been keeping it running apparently. The truck will go home with the son, and the Skyliner will probably go up for sale.
I am wondering if I need another Ford...
David from jax
I will try to post a picture of the truck and car if BravoXray doesn't mind.
 
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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#793  
It got into the high 40s today, the roads were mostly dry, so I moved the tractors out and took the Nova for a 20 mile drive. It's only the second time I've driven it since dropping in the new engine, it runs great and no leaks.
Last week I added an overflow tank for the radiator, Made a bracket out of a piece of 16ga. aluminum to mount the tank, and ran apiece of 5/16" line over to the radiator neck fitting.
I might even take it out tomorrow too, as it's supposed to be in the upper 40s again and no rain.

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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #794  
Awesome, I took a couple of my winter stored cars out of the garage here in Eastern Ontario, and let them warm up good and moved them around the driveway to keep everything lubed up and rolling free. Looking forward to the time change and an early spring.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#795  
Well, a gremlin has popped up in the electrical system in the Nova. When the key is turned to the accessory position, the screen on the EFI hand controller flashes on and off a couuple of times a second. I pulled the EFI fuse and found there was about 3 volts being fed into the ignition circuit. After a lot of head scratching and looking at wiring diagrams, I found that if I pulled the fuse for the dome lights, it stopped. The only connection the two circuits have is that the dome light dimmer is connected to the ignition circuit so that the dome light will go out when the key is turned to the on or accessory position. So, I figured that if I put a diode in the ignition feed to the dome light controller, that should stop it. In addition, the backlighting on the instrument cluster backlighting was really dim. As much as I hated to do it, the dash was going to have to come out to get access to the dome light module and the backlight bulbs. I got it out, replaced the bulbs with LEDs, installed a diode in the ignition feed lead, and made a few other changes to clean up the wiring. Confident all was fixed, and before I put the dash back in, I tried the switch in the accessory position, and no flashing. Great!
I put it all back together, but when I tried it again, the flashing was back. Plus, now the wipers don't work.
Many NSFW expletives followed.
The fuse on the wipers was blown, so I checked the wires on the wiper motor and switch and found no problem, I replaced the fuse and as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, it blew. On the Nova, power is applied to the wiper motor whenever the switch is on, and it is controlled by the switch supplying a ground to either the low or high speed windings, or both.
After stewing about it for a few days, I decided to bite the bullet and pull the dash back out. I had thought that somehow a wire had gotten pinched causing the short, but found no problem, and the short went away when I unplugged the wires from the wiper motor. So, it seems the motor just all of a sudden went shorted internally, even though it had worked fine whenever I had tried it before. I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and tear it down to see what the problem is, and if I can fix it. It's 55 years old, so I'm sure the warranty has expired. Fortunately, if I need a new one, they are readily available and not expensive.
As for the ignition backfeed, I'm going to try a few things to see if I can figure out where it is coming from. Since the wiper delay module and the radio delay module are also connected to the ignition circuit, maybe its one of them causing the problem, but I don't think they are connected to the dome light circuit. The puzzling thing though, is that it doesn't happen with the instrument cluster disconnected, but that only connects to the turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, fuel gauge, idiot lights and backlights. the only bulb directly connected to the ignition circuit with the engine off is the generator light, but the wire that grounds it to make it come on isn't connected.

Color me puzzled....

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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #797  
Well, a gremlin has popped up in the electrical system in the Nova. When the key is turned to the accessory position, the screen on the EFI hand controller flashes on and off a couuple of times a second. I pulled the EFI fuse and found there was about 3 volts being fed into the ignition circuit. After a lot of head scratching and looking at wiring diagrams, I found that if I pulled the fuse for the dome lights, it stopped. The only connection the two circuits have is that the dome light dimmer is connected to the ignition circuit so that the dome light will go out when the key is turned to the on or accessory position. So, I figured that if I put a diode in the ignition feed to the dome light controller, that should stop it. In addition, the backlighting on the instrument cluster backlighting was really dim. As much as I hated to do it, the dash was going to have to come out to get access to the dome light module and the backlight bulbs. I got it out, replaced the bulbs with LEDs, installed a diode in the ignition feed lead, and made a few other changes to clean up the wiring. Confident all was fixed, and before I put the dash back in, I tried the switch in the accessory position, and no flashing. Great!
I put it all back together, but when I tried it again, the flashing was back. Plus, now the wipers don't work.
Many NSFW expletives followed.
The fuse on the wipers was blown, so I checked the wires on the wiper motor and switch and found no problem, I replaced the fuse and as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, it blew. On the Nova, power is applied to the wiper motor whenever the switch is on, and it is controlled by the switch supplying a ground to either the low or high speed windings, or both.
After stewing about it for a few days, I decided to bite the bullet and pull the dash back out. I had thought that somehow a wire had gotten pinched causing the short, but found no problem, and the short went away when I unplugged the wires from the wiper motor. So, it seems the motor just all of a sudden went shorted internally, even though it had worked fine whenever I had tried it before. I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and tear it down to see what the problem is, and if I can fix it. It's 55 years old, so I'm sure the warranty has expired. Fortunately, if I need a new one, they are readily available and not expensive.
As for the ignition backfeed, I'm going to try a few things to see if I can figure out where it is coming from. Since the wiper delay module and the radio delay module are also connected to the ignition circuit, maybe its one of them causing the problem, but I don't think they are connected to the dome light circuit. The puzzling thing though, is that it doesn't happen with the instrument cluster disconnected, but that only connects to the turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, fuel gauge, idiot lights and backlights. the only bulb directly connected to the ignition circuit with the engine off is the generator light, but the wire that grounds it to make it come on isn't connected.

Color me puzzled....

View attachment 3221498View attachment 3221499View attachment 3221500
We think if anyone can get to the bottom of the issue, it is you! Good luck my friend!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
 
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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #798  
Well, a gremlin has popped up in the electrical system in the Nova. When the key is turned to the accessory position, the screen on the EFI hand controller flashes on and off a couuple of times a second. I pulled the EFI fuse and found there was about 3 volts being fed into the ignition circuit. After a lot of head scratching and looking at wiring diagrams, I found that if I pulled the fuse for the dome lights, it stopped. The only connection the two circuits have is that the dome light dimmer is connected to the ignition circuit so that the dome light will go out when the key is turned to the on or accessory position. So, I figured that if I put a diode in the ignition feed to the dome light controller, that should stop it. In addition, the backlighting on the instrument cluster backlighting was really dim. As much as I hated to do it, the dash was going to have to come out to get access to the dome light module and the backlight bulbs. I got it out, replaced the bulbs with LEDs, installed a diode in the ignition feed lead, and made a few other changes to clean up the wiring. Confident all was fixed, and before I put the dash back in, I tried the switch in the accessory position, and no flashing. Great!
I put it all back together, but when I tried it again, the flashing was back. Plus, now the wipers don't work.
Many NSFW expletives followed.
The fuse on the wipers was blown, so I checked the wires on the wiper motor and switch and found no problem, I replaced the fuse and as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, it blew. On the Nova, power is applied to the wiper motor whenever the switch is on, and it is controlled by the switch supplying a ground to either the low or high speed windings, or both.
After stewing about it for a few days, I decided to bite the bullet and pull the dash back out. I had thought that somehow a wire had gotten pinched causing the short, but found no problem, and the short went away when I unplugged the wires from the wiper motor. So, it seems the motor just all of a sudden went shorted internally, even though it had worked fine whenever I had tried it before. I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and tear it down to see what the problem is, and if I can fix it. It's 55 years old, so I'm sure the warranty has expired. Fortunately, if I need a new one, they are readily available and not expensive.
As for the ignition backfeed, I'm going to try a few things to see if I can figure out where it is coming from. Since the wiper delay module and the radio delay module are also connected to the ignition circuit, maybe its one of them causing the problem, but I don't think they are connected to the dome light circuit. The puzzling thing though, is that it doesn't happen with the instrument cluster disconnected, but that only connects to the turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, fuel gauge, idiot lights and backlights. the only bulb directly connected to the ignition circuit with the engine off is the generator light, but the wire that grounds it to make it come on isn't connected.

Color me puzzled....

View attachment 3221498View attachment 3221499View attachment 3221500
Electrical gremlins, especially involving several things are usually bad grounds. Something is turned on, getting a ground through something else causing weird effects.
I have a 1969 Rambler Rogue that had many weird problems. I pulled dash and the circuit board all those 1/4" screws made ground contact for the circuit board.
Years ago I had a '66 Nova similar problems like running wiper the dome light came on very dim, etc.
Bad grounds.
Then that great big socket going through firewall can have corroded contacts. Usually it's one screw (5/16" from memory) you remove and it unplugs.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#799  
The entire wire harness is new, so it can't be corrosion in the bulkhead connector, and it's never been exposed to moisture in the couple of years since it's been installed.
Also, I was VERY diligent in making sure everything was grounded, in fact, just today I checked all the grounds that go to the the instrument cluster and all the add-on modules, dome light dimmer, intermittent wipers, radio delay and keyless door locks, and they all check out with zero resistance.
I pulled the wiper motor off and bench tested it, and it would sometimes work, though very slowly, and finally quit altogether. I pulled to motor off and all looked good, brushes, commutator, armature and field windings. The gear box is sort of riveted together in a dozen places, and getting it apart to check the park switch would probably make it impossible to put back together. I put the motor back together, and I can turn the output arm and hear the motor spin with no rubbing or dragging, but if I apply power it locks up tight, can't turn the arm. So, I ordered a new motor and it should be here in a couple of days. Once I get it and get it reinstalled, I'll make sure it all works and it didn't bork the delay module, if it's okay, I'll reconnect the instrument cluster. but won't reinstall it. If the feedback is gone, I'll get it reinstalled, recheck it at that point. Depending on what happens, I'll proceed from there.

I'll let you know what I find.
 
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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #800  
Any update on what you found to be the problem ?
 

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