Help extending the range of my Dakota Alert System

[jk96]

I just recently installed the Dakota Alert DCPA 4K that uses the buried vehicle probe. The transmitter and receiver are located about 1/2 mile away however the transmitter is at the bottom of a hill and my alerts are spotty. Maybe 50/50 success rate at best. I know I can move it closer to the house however this is the preferred location due to being in a place in the drive that cars cannot go around it and also allows more time to alert us to incoming vehicles. In talking to Dakota support they cannot make recommendations due to FCC limitations. I know about zero as far as radio.

It looks like both the transmitter and receiver uses a helical internal 433 MHz antenna. The receiver antenna is about half the size of the transmitter antenna. Each antenna is soldered to the board and would be fairly easy to solder in a different antenna. Pics of each attached. Although both antennas are internal it would be easy to modify the housings if needed for an external antenna. So...............

What recommendations can you give me? Add a better external antenna to the receiver, transmitter, or both? And what antenna would you recommend? Because I am getting some alerts I don't think I need a huge bump in signal. Appreciate any help.
Jeremy

 

[drizler]

I used and use now a cheaper setup ( Mighty Mule) for this as well as a WiFi for security video . Distance is never what they say. Trees hills even weather causes problems and if you are fringe it’s likely not gonna get better. In short you need a fairly strong signal or it will only work intermittently and bug you .
Things to consider . Receiver location is big. Steel walls brick walls really cut signal strength so try keeping the receiver in a window if possible. Keep that antenna tip directly in front of glass not casing and cross your fingers. That’s the single best thing I ever found to help if you can swing it. I did try an outside WiFi antenna to offset my barn video steel wall fringe issue and that was a total bust.

 

[bdhsfz6]

You can try this cheap range extender antenna for garage door openers:

Amazon.com

It will give you some gain. If it isn't enough, you may have to go for a more expensive model like this one:

Amazon.com

In both cases, you'll have to cut the cable and solder the center connector to the transmitter circuit board.

If these don't do it, you may have to put this one on the receiver:

Amazon.com

Good Luck!

 

[jk96]

You can try this cheap range extender antenna for garage door openers:

View attachment 2173174

Amazon.com

It will give you some gain. If it isn't enough, you may have to go for a more expensive model like this one:

View attachment 2173175

Amazon.com

In both cases, you'll have to cut the cable and solder the center connector to the transmitter circuit board.

If these don't do it, you may have to put this one on the receiver:

View attachment 2173176

Amazon.com

Good Luck!

Would you recommend trying on the receiver first since it seems to have the smaller antenna of the two?

 

[nybirdman]

I had a Dakota Alert system for a couple of years;lots of false alarms and deer setting it off.Replaced it with a cell based game camera and a solar panel.
There are some cost but have a picture in 2 minutes go directly to my cell phone no matter were I am.
Tactacam camera($119) yearly unlimited maybe $100(not sure I have 4 of them).Solar panel about $72.Mine works well and their tech service is good.

 

[jk96]

I had a Dakota Alert system for a couple of years;lots of false alarms and deer setting it off.Replaced it with a cell based game camera and a solar panel.
There are some cost but have a picture in 2 minutes go directly to my cell phone no matter were I am.
Tactacam camera($119) yearly unlimited maybe $100(not sure I have 4 of them).Solar panel about $72.Mine works well and their tech service is good.

This one used the buried probe to detect metal so no motion alerts.

 

[ruffdog]

I have had 3 Dakota Alerts motion detectors and a Guardline motion detector. When I buy another one, it will be a Guardline.

 

[jk96]

I have had 3 Dakota Alerts motion detectors and a Guardline motion detector. When I buy another one, it will be a Guardline.

I'm not interested in motion. Had the dakota with vehicle probe at our previous location and worked great. I'm only interested in something that will detect vehicles, utv, etc to alert us when sleeping. If an antenna extension doesnt work Ill move it to the top of the hill . Just wanted this location due to the narrow choke point.

 

[slckeys]

I have the same system, no issues. But if I were you, I'd probably try replacing the antenna on the receiver. Because you say you are getting alerts, the signal does make it, just not consistent. But that's just thinking out loud...

 

[bdhsfz6]

Would you recommend trying on the receiver first since it seems to have the smaller antenna of the two?

Yes, if it's easier and you don't mind spending a few extra $$.
That antenna is a Yagi design and is highly directional. It may take some time to get it aimed correctly.

 

[jk96]

I have the same system, no issues. But if I were you, I'd probably try replacing the antenna on the receiver. Because you say you are getting alerts, the signal does make it, just not consistent. But that's just thinking out loud...

Kind of what Im thinking. Transmitter sits at the bottom of about a 35ft hill so its the earth thats killing the signal. I could get some wire and raise the transmitter high uo the tree but dont want to have to get a ladder to change batteries if I can make an antenna work.

 

[slckeys]

You wouldn't even have to raise the transmitter, just the antenna so it can get over the "earth" that's blocking the signal. You could keep the battery case lower and accessable, while running an extension cable and antenna up higher. So that could be a better option so you don't have some weird antenna in your house.

 

[ponytug]

Kind of what Im thinking. Transmitter sits at the bottom of about a 35ft hill so it's the earth thats killing the signal. I could get some wire and raise the transmitter high uo the tree but dont want to have to get a ladder to change batteries if I can make an antenna work.

Could put the transmitter up, but have a battery at ground level?

If not, I would raise the antenna, and I would use the Yagi type that @bdhsfz6 suggested, as it will have the most increase in signal strength. Each foot of cable that you use eats into your signal, so long antenna cables can be worse than a mini-antenna.

All the best,

Peter

 

[jk96]

For connecting the coax to the circuit board is it as simple as soldering the center pin to the board? Does anything need to be done with the coax outer shield as far as grounding?

 

[slckeys]

No idea on the grounding, but make sure to either seal up the hole for the cable, or put a drip loop in it.

 

[garry1p]

I would first connect the center conductor to the receiver PCB to see if that is enough, if not depending on the antenna you will have to have a ground plane for the shield. The higher the antenna the more effective it will be.

For the YAGI I think attaching the shield to the ground (-) on the PCB would work.

For a vertical antenna a 6 to 12" round piece of aluminum directly under the antenna with the shield connected would work.

Then again I haven't worked with this stuff for 20/30 years.

 

[ruffdog]

Interesting read:

Adding range to a Dakota Alert WMT-3000 wireless driveway alarm | Jay's Technical Talk

 

[jk96]

Interesting read:

Adding range to a Dakota Alert WMT-3000 wireless driveway alarm | Jay's Technical Talk

I asked a friend who's field is electronics about the coax and this was his reply.

"I think that it can work. The coax shield has to be soldered to the ground plane close to where the center conductor is soldered to the board. I think we can ignore the impedance mismatch."

 

[ruffdog]

This part too.....

"Note the jumper circled in yellow. This jumper has a “high” and “low” setting. It is set to the “low” setting by the factory, and the “high” pin has been cut off. I found that the range was extended by soldering the “high” (cut off) pin to the center pin."

 

[jk96]

This part too.....

"Note the jumper circled in yellow. This jumper has a “high” and “low” setting. It is set to the “low” setting by the factory, and the “high” pin has been cut off. I found that the range was extended by soldering the “high” (cut off) pin to the center pin."

In looking this board is completely different then the newer redesigned board in my unit.