New 2024 Cub Cadet Ultima ZTXS5 54

[Carl_NH]

Runner, I presume you are not running the unit now and still getting oil leaking out?

I have had no leaks on my FH751 25HP - but some models as 5030 point out will leak under certain conditions.

I think a visit to the dealer to see what they say and or reach out to your regional Kawasaki rep may be a good idea.

It''s not a lot of oil, but it will coat everything under there eventually and make a mess - I would want a new machine to be leak free.

 

[Runner]

The Kawalski engines have a push in interference fit dipstick tube than can get loose and leak, especially if you use a motor oil that foams excessively or is probe to hot vaporizing. Running slightly below full will mitigate the issue. What I did with the one on my traded in M50 tank.

The dipstick/drain plug area is the general location of the leak, but it appears to be dry around the base of the dipstick tube. I really can't feel anything coming out around the drain hose fitting either, but I can't see anything else that could leak oil in that area.

It's really strange that this didn't start until after the first oil change.

 

[Runner]

Runner, I presume you are not running the unit now and still getting oil leaking out?

I have had no leaks on my FH751 25HP - but some models as 5030 point out will leak under certain conditions.

I think a visit to the dealer to see what they say and or reach out to your regional Kawasaki rep may be a good idea.

It''s not a lot of oil, but it will coat everything under there eventually and make a mess - I would want a new machine to be leak free.

I want it to be leak-free too, but would just about rather light myself on fire than have to go and fight with a dealer about something like this....

 

[5030]

Was the oil up to the full mark prior to you changing it? Try running a pint low, won't hurt anything, besides that motor has a low oil shutdown so it's safeguarded anyway.

One my K241 Kohler on my engine drive Weld & Power, it specifically states in the manual to not screw it in but rest it on the outer edge to determine oil level.

Though I'm a little vague on the oil capacity of the engine as I traded mine in early last spring but if I remember correctly, you check the full level with the dipstick resting on the edge of the filler tube and not screwed in.

 

[Carl_NH]

5030 you are correct, the Kawasaki manual and believe written on the dipstick too, says to rest the cap on the fill port not screwed in to check the level.

That could be the problem, but I think the machine is just sitting over the winter (not running) and still leaking.

 

[Runner]

Was the oil up to the full mark prior to you changing it? Try running a pint low, won't hurt anything, besides that motor has a low oil shutdown so it's safeguarded anyway.

One my K241 Kohler on my engine drive Weld & Power, it specifically states in the manual to not screw it in but rest it on the outer edge to determine oil level.

Though I'm a little vague on the oil capacity of the engine as I traded mine in early last spring but if I remember correctly, you check the full level with the dipstick resting on the edge of the filler tube and not screwed in.

The FS730V manual for this unit also specifies checking with the dipstick resting on top of the tube.

Of course, the manual specifies "2.1 liters" with filter, so converting that to 2.22 quarts might have resulted in me just putting in 2.25 quarts. Maybe being .03 quart over filled causes it to leak somewhere, but hard to imagine.

I wouldn't be quite so hesitant to take it to a dealer if I could pinpoint where it's leaking. My first thought is the most obvious thing which is the fitting between the rubber drain hose and the sump. I've checked the hose end and the fitting and they seem to be tight, but extremely hard to put a wrench on. The hose end has some kind of thread sealer on it.

 

[Carl_NH]

Here's the service manual and it states 2.1 liters. Interestingly, my 14 YO Kawasaki FH721V states the same thing in liters. I have always added 2 quarts and checked levels and added more if needed.

 

[drumminj]

My ZTX4 with the Kohler engine doesn't seem to leak any oil, for whatever that data point is worth.

It does apparently have a common issue with the throttle cable being loose such that it doesn't always fire up when cold. Tightened the cable and all good now.

 

[drumminj]

@Runner what mower lift do you have/use with the ZTXS? Looking to get one and curious how it works with the ZTR.

 

[Runner]

@Runner what mower lift do you have/use with the ZTXS? Looking to get one and curious how it works with the ZTR.

I have this one from HF

https://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-heavy-duty-atvmower-high-lift-jack-63298.html

I like it, but it takes up a TON of floor space when not being used. Decided to remove the handle and just move it around by picking it up from the end of the forks. For storage it stands upright very well without the handle on it by placing a 2x4 block under the frame.

Would not want to have a ZTR without a lift like this.

 

[jyoutz]

I have this one from HF

https://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-heavy-duty-atvmower-high-lift-jack-63298.html

I like it, but it takes up a TON of floor space when not being used. Decided to remove the handle and just move it around by picking it up from the end of the forks. For storage it stands upright very well without the handle on it by placing a 2x4 block under the frame.

Would not want to have a ZTR without a lift like this.

I have a chain hoist on a truss in my barn. I hoist up the front and the ZTM pivots on the rear wheels. Just enough to get under the deck and remove the blade for sharpening.

 

[5030]

Not something I need. I just use the forks on the loader on one of the Kubota's to lift them. My wife has a steering wheel ZTR as well and she swears by it. Bought it lightly used from my Kubota dealer who also sells CC, paid a grand for it. Has a Kohler on it, not a Kawalski.

 

[drumminj]

Sadly I don't have any re-inforced trusses in my shop I'd feel comfortable using to lift anything heavy. @5030 what are safe spots you've found on your wife's CC to lift the front? It's hard to know what's solid under there with the steering linkage.

Home Depot has a lift on clearance for $190 (MoJack HDL 500 Lawn Mower Lift 45501 - The Home Depot) but after reading a few negative reviews I'm wondering if just using ramps would get it off the ground enough to get the blades off.

 

[5030]

@5030 what are safe spots you've found on your wife's CC to lift the front?

Wood blocks under the front axle being careful not to get the forks under the steering linkage. Really not that heavy in the front anyway.

 

[Runner]

Spring 2025 update: Mowed for the first time this year yesterday with the reduced tire pressures with interesting results. As a recap, the sidewall tire pressures are listed as 28 front and 20 rear. The ride at these pressures was punishing. I changed them to 10 and 15, respectively to try and improve the ride. After playing with it a little, I decided 10 on the front was too low because it made the steering heavy.

So for yesterday, I set the tires at 15 for both front and rear. The result was that the ride was indeed smoother, i.e., it went from a sharp jounce to floaty bounces. However, the bounces amplified the tendency for me to bounce off the seat, resulting in at least 5 instances of having to reset the PTO due to auto shut-off. This is pushing me towards disabling the seat switch system entirely. Don't want to do it because I think it is a good safety feature, but it is just too sensitive....

The unit is still dripping oil. I put cardboard under it to keep the floor clean and another layer of cardboard above the level of the drives, but below the pulleys, just to make sure the oil is coming from the engine (which it is).

I have pretty much isolated the source of the leak to the adapter fitting between the oil drain hose and the sump. The hose fitting has some type of thread sealer on it, but the adapter fitting does not. As mentioned previously, I can't get a wrench on the adapter fitting, so my plan is to wait until I change oil in June. At that time, while all the oil is out, I will remove the drain hose and the adapter fitting, then reinstall with some Permatex thread sealer. Wish me luck on that....

Other than the oil leak, the machine is still running great and delivering a nice looking cut.

 

[drumminj]

I did my first mow a couple of days ago - just a quick one while we had a break in the rain. Seat sensor didn't trigger once!

Ordered some Gator G5 blades to try as replacements -- should get here this week so curious to see how mowing this weekend goes with that.

 

[Carl_NH]

We are 3 weeks away from mowing season in NH. Looking at that drain hose that does not look like what they spec for the FS730V engine - I looked at several and they have an O-ring on the engine end and a thumbscrew with oring on the drain end. Here's a link to the hose on Amazon Amazon.com

 

[Runner]

We are 3 weeks away from mowing season in NH. Looking at that drain hose that does not look like what they spec for the FS730V engine - I looked at several and they have an O-ring on the engine end and a thumbscrew with oring on the drain end. Here's a link to the hose on Amazon Amazon.com

The drain hose on my machine does match what is shown in the manual for the ZTXS5 54. You can't see it in the picture, but the drain end of the hose is just a square-headed pipe plug.

Your post brings up good point, i.e., that maybe there is an o-ring in the hole where the adapter fitting screws in, which would explain why there is no thread sealant showing. If so, could be that the o-ring was damaged during installation and the source of the leak. All will be revealed soon....

 

[Runner]

Second mowing of the season today. After getting bounced off the seat enough to activate the PTO cut-off three or four times, I'd had enough and did the plug mod to defeat the "feature".

For those unfamiliar, on MTD products there is a little "buss bar" inside the green plug where the wire attaches to the bottom of the seat. Just pull out the buss bar and reattach the plug to the seat and, presto, no more PTO cut-out.

Also removed the front-mounted counterweight because I think it is making the steering heavier and I won't be using the bagger for a while.

Other than those things, still running and cutting great...

Even the oil leak seems to have slowed down...hope that doesn't mean it's dry...

 

[drumminj]

Glad to hear you found a solution. Do you have a video or list of steps you can link to on how to disable it?

I put on the gator blades the other day but haven't had a chance to mow with them yet (probably tomorrow). Man, I had to use a 3' breaker bar to get the spindle nuts loose, and on 2 of the three needed a wrench on the head of the spindle nut to stop from just turning the spindle with it!

Think you'll ever consider adding the extra suspension to the seat?