Barndominium/Shop or "real" House?

[ETD66SS]

Very nice work and well thought out - and you have all the tools and machines to make it look easy. Its a lot of work working alone, doing conduit and backfilling.

Like the older iron you have the Ford 1920 with plow, the older Ford with land plane? and is that a JD BH or Case?

The backhoe is Ford 575D 4X4. I've owned it for 20 years now, it's done a lot of work.

To save money on all the fill I needed to raise the build pad I went with hard fill. Lot of chunks of concerte, asphalt and red brick. Made the conuit job a lot more difficult. Backfilled over the conduit with a few inches of 5/8 crusher run before using any of the hard fill. Tamped in layers as I went. Don't have a trench compactor.

 

[Carl_NH]

Yes - saw the fill remnants in the bucket of the 575 - that makes it a lot harder, but you got it done. Here in NH the first 2-3 feet are comprised of glacial till rocks and boulders - not fun doing any piping or digging. Here, once you break through that 2-3' mess of glacial till its a nice sandy mix.

Your project looks very well planned, and you will have the satisfaction of knowing how its built and where everything is - IF you need to redo anything in the future.

 

[ETD66SS]

I bought a jumping jack compactor to to compact around all the columns and my conduit trenches.

Unfortunately there was quite a bit of water pumping up in some spots.

I knew I should have put in a drain tile when I backfilled the build pad last year. I decided to start on that today.

I'll probably use 6" corrugated pipe with filter sock near the building and then switch to non-perforrated to carry the water away.

It's probably going to take a couple weeks to dry out the pad so I can resume compaction.

 

[EddieWalker]

Is all that water from the water table?

 

[ETD66SS]

Is all that water from the water table?

Yes, the water table starts very high here in spring, and it's been raining pretty much every day for the last 3 weeks. From now until August the water table will drop about 5 ft.

However, this water was sitting under the building pad because of the way I put in my driveway approach to the building. So definitely want drain tile on this side of the building pad so every spring I don't have so much water under the concrete pad.

Pad Draining

I did put this drainage pipe in when building the driveway, to get water from one side to the other, but water is still getting underneath the building pad.

 

[LouNY]

Do you have enough slope to take it to daylight or are you going to have to use a drywell tile.

 

[ETD66SS]

Do you have enough slope to take it to daylight or are you going to have to use a drywell tile.

There is a drainage swale about 100ft from the building, I've already rough trenched out to it to get the water away from the pad.

I don't have any kind of fancy laser setup when I dig so will have to go back over everything with my transit when placing and backfilling the pipe to get proper pitch.

 

[ETD66SS]

So I am mostly finished with the drainage.

That grate on the tee fitting is temporary, I will eventually connect that to the gutter on the lean-to.

My big decision now is whether or not to go with floor drains. The drains will ultimately be going to daylight so I don't need p-traps for sewer gasses. My plumber is recommending to go with drop-in check vavles to keep out drafts in the winter and critters year round.

I checked on the NYS DEC website and a permit is not required for a residential garage drain exiting to daylight. I also asked my building inspector and he says a permit is not required.

These 3 bays will be for parking, and the drains are for snow/ice melt in the winter.

When I do the concrete in the shop area, whatever floor drains I put in will likely need an oil separator, because that's where work on vehicles and equipment will happen. However, I don't see on the DEC website that this is required. It is if you are connecting to a city sewer system, but not to daylight.

I guess my question is, are floor drains really worth it? I already ordered the drains and the PVC stuff is not that expensive. I'm just wondering if I'm making the concrete contractors' job harder by asking him to slope to 3 drains. Is that more difficult than sloping to three OH doors?

I'm still on the fence whether or not I want them. Seems like whatever I decide, in the futue I will wish I had chosen the opposite.

 

[BackRoad]

You live in the snow belt if I recall. Parking a snow or slush covered vehicle in the garage WITH drains is a lot less messy and more efficient when dealing with meltoff.

Putting it in now will be the easiest chance you'll get.

 

[EddieWalker]

The ditches sure dried out nicely. It's smart to take lots of pictures of what you are doing. It seems like it would be easy to remember where everything is, but in ten years, those pictures will be priceless!!!