Longer bar for Stihl M261 - relative novice.

[5030]

One thing I've never failed to comprehend and that is, why people must buy a saw with a bar that is longer than the largest tree they plan on cutting down. Longest bar I run is 20". If the tree in question had a diameter bigger then 20", I split the cut. Not to say I don't own larger bars because I do, I just don't use them. My Stihl 090G carries a 4 1/2 foot bar and my 075 Stihl carries a 36" bar. Both are insanely heavy (saw and powerhead) and not at all comfortable to use. Bought them a long time ago when I owned and operated a tree removal business and they were only used for bucking trees on the ground, prior to hauling the logs away. They both sit on a shelf in the shop, devoid of fuel and oil, collecting dust today. I might sell them someday as they are both worth some serious jack.

99% of the time I use my Echo Top Handle Arborist saw and it has a 14" bar on it and it serves my needs just fine. It's light, easy to start and easy on fuel and it didn't break my wallet to buy either. Dropped some large trees with it in the past as well. It's my 'go to' saw because it's easy to operate. I do use my 520 Echo Timber bear as well as my 028 but I prefer the top handle over all of them. the 520 and the 28 both have 20" roller nose bars with greaseable noses.

Bigger is better may apply to some things but it don't apply to chainsaws, least in my opinion.

 

[MarblemountLane]

I’m going to go with the guys who said get the longer bar but keep your shorter bar & chain. If you only need the longer bar now and then, you can be patient with the cutting. Heck, I have an 18” on a little MS180 (barely over 16” usable before you hit the dogs), but it’s a saw to carry in the trunk in winter, not do continuous work.

That being said, I now have 20” bars on all four of my Homelite super EZ Autos; the one I bought new in December 1974 was the last to switch from 16” to 20”. (I’m sure you can guess my favorite small saw.)

My big Husky 385XP (which I think of as my “new” saw because I gave $400 for a demo saw that would have been $800 new - in 2002) has both 28” and 32” bars. I’ve used the 32” with ripping chain and my Alaskan Sawmill. Pretty sure it would pull 36” but I’ve never needed it.

I say run what matches the saw and works for you, in your wood, but don’t be afraid to use a long bar now and then for special jobs.

 

[5030]

Whatever you do, don't buy a new Stihl bar (the ones with the funky design on them), they aren't all that good. Having said that, not my personal poinion, only what I've read about them.
Again, 20" is more than adequate for all but the largest trees anyway, least in my view it is.

 

[xyz123]

I wished I had had a 42" and my G3120 I have now for this stumping I did. But only had a 32" and G466 77cc. Part I cut was 46"x45"

Sure aint getting it stumped with no 20"

 

[Lavender Valley]

I run 2 saws, 445 X torq and a 365 special, both commercial saws. The 445 I run a 20-inch bar, and the 365 has two bar lengths, 24-inch and 28-inch. The 28-inch has a skip-tooth chain and cuts faster than the 24-inch. There are lots of options that can be done without overloading the saw's power.

 

[xyz123]

I appreciate the replies... it really does help me understand the limits of what I have vs what I need.

I think the thing for me to do is get a bigger saw. I'm looking at the MS462 range... I found one on FBMP, but I'm a bit leery about buying a used saw, as I don't really know 'enough' about used saws to know what to look for.



I'm pretty confident I can avoid massive issues, but if there are more subtle things to look for on a 462, things which are just waiting to be sent in for overhaul, I'd appreciate your knowledge.

What should I look for when purchasing a used saw? What would you recommend doing to try NOT to buy something worn out?

Look for 462's above this serial number for the updated ones.

April 2021 at Serial 190015190

 

[Jrasband]

I wished I had had a 42" and my G3120 I have now for this stumping I did. But only had a 32" and G466 77cc. Part I cut was 46"x45"

Sure aint getting it stumped with no 20"

Yeah you can it just takes longer. You have to make vertical cuts and break it up into multiple pieces.

 

[5030]

I use a stump grinder myself, No putting a chain in the dirt, what a carbide toothed stunp grinder is for.

 

[Mudfarmer]

What's all the fuss. The MS261's I have all came with 20 inch bars from the dealer. They work just fine.

 

[Hay Dude]

The price might not be terrible for someone who needs the saw, but with your 500i already in the cupboard, there's much less justification for keeping an MS-66x.

MS-661 = 7.2 hp / 16.5 lb
500i = 6.7 hp / 13.9 lb

At less than 10% difference in horsepower, the MS-661 is too close to the 500i to be anything more than a much heavier emergency backup. If you really need to run a bar that the 500i can't hadle, I'd skip right to the 084/088/MS-88x saws.

661 is definitely a “bigger bore” saw, but I like that idea, too. I still think of a 500i as a “light” saw. To me it feels like the last light saw they make, but has nice power.
After that, they jump pretty good in weight.

The big 84/88/88x's are slow churners, or at least that's how I've always seen them set up. I suspect they were primarily designed for guys running mills, but you can always throw a larger sprocket onto one to bring chain speed up equivalent with an MS-661.

My dealer just quoted me $1,579 for a new 661 with a 32” bar.
He also gives me a 10% discount ($1,421) and no sales tax.
At $1,421 for a new saw, $1,000 for a used saw doesn’t sound like a good deal for the used one. I offered $800 and of course he balked, but $800 is almost 60% of new and that’s right about what % of new that solid used equipment should sell for.