Utility Trailer for Subcompact Tractor

[CPTKILLER]

I have a Bad Boy 1022H subcompact tractor that I will need to haul occasionally. These are the manufacturers stats on my tractor.

OVERALL LENGTH94.2"
OVERALL WIDTH44.5"
OVERALL HEIGHT86.6"
WHEELBASE53.1"
MINIMUM GROUND CLEARANCE8.3"
WEIGHT1,433 LBS.

With the bucket, the length and weight will change.

I am on a budget and want a reasonable bumper utility trailer with my Jeep Gladiator for local hauling usually under 50 miles. The Gladiator is fine for towing with the Max Tow Package. I have hauled stock trailers with no issues.

My problem is that most local dealers are in the $3600-$5000 range. My budget is $2000-$3000 (preferably on the lower end). Used trailers are often close in price to new trailers here.

1. Length 12’-16’? Does 14’ make sense?
2. Single vs tandem axle?
3. With or without brakes? Smaller utility trailers often do not have brakes.
4. Optimum GVWR for my use?

I appreciate any comments.

 

[RjCorazza]

I prefer tandem trailers, and 16' is a good length imho. There are likely more 16' landscape trailers available on the used market also.
Laws vary by state, but I believe your gross trailer weight is going to be in brakes required territory, or close to it. In any case, I think trailer brakes make for a safer tow.
Just an opinion, but I also prefer towing WELL within the trailer specs. Towing at capacity is more stressful and harder on the trailer.

 

[Torvy]

I went the opposite route of most.

I got a single HD axle. It's only 14'. I could get your tractor back and forth just fine.

I went to a local mfg and it was about $2500.

 

[oldnslo]

Like Torvy I have 14’ 5,000 lb axle with brakes since 99% of my use is hauling 1,000 lbs or less.

Benefit of single axle is turning tight don’t scuff tires and stress frame. Downside of single axle is harder to. Balance load so not tongue heavy or tongue light. Single also bounces more.

Like others have said looking used I suspect will find far more tandem axle 16 ft range.

 

[paulsharvey]

A 6'4"×16', screen ramp/gate, utility, dual axle, will do fine for what you need. I haul my CK2610 on one, and other than the mesh gate, I haven't felt I needed more, but I'm at probably 4500#, tractor, loader, water filled rears, and a 72" box blade.

Consider what you will/might have on the back of the tractor, the length adds up quick.

Breaks... when we are talking about max load of 3500#, trailer, tractor, attachments, the Jeep should have Plenty of stopping power. No down side to having trailer brakes on 1 axle; (it might be on all 14+ footers), but don't over think that part.

Mine has 4 tie down ring points, that are inline with the rails; so easy to strap down front and back.

 

[paulsharvey]

This is the exact trailer I have; prices have gone up, but I paid $2700 back in 2020.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I vote for tandem axle with brakes, 16-18', useful for lots of things.

Not that tandem axles changes anything when it comes to getting the load's weight in the correct spot, but if nothing else, a tire failure won't be quite as dramatic.

 

[WM75Guy]

I would go for a minimum of a tandem axle 16' trailer, even if you have to up your budget. For a long-term capital expenditure, it will pay off. I traded in my Big Tex 50LA tandem axle which was 14' long, 77' wide, and 5,000# GVWR for a new Big Tex 70PI trailer. It is tandem axle with brakes, 7,000# GVWR 16' long and 83" wide, with a ramp gate. I use it to haul my NH 25S, Kubota RTV-X, and the Kubota ZD1211 when they need to go in for service. It is also very handy for hauling implements and supplies such as lumber. I went from having a cargo capacity of 3,500# to 5,000#. The extra 2' has come in handy when I needed move the load around to balance the tongue weight. I added a Warn winch and battery on the tongue after having to use a come along to pull a dead Kawasaki Mule onto the trailer. I am too old to do that again.

 

[WilliamBos]

I have a Bad Boy 1022H subcompact tractor that I will need to haul occasionally. These are the manufacturers stats on my tractor.

OVERALL LENGTH94.2"
OVERALL WIDTH44.5"
OVERALL HEIGHT86.6"
WHEELBASE53.1"
MINIMUM GROUND CLEARANCE8.3"
WEIGHT1,433 LBS.

With the bucket, the length and weight will change.

I am on a budget and want a reasonable bumper utility trailer with my Jeep Gladiator for local hauling usually under 50 miles. The Gladiator is fine for towing with the Max Tow Package. I have hauled stock trailers with no issues.

My problem is that most local dealers are in the $3600-$5000 range. My budget is $2000-$3000 (preferably on the lower end). Used trailers are often close in price to new trailers here.

1. Length 12’-16’? Does 14’ make sense?
2. Single vs tandem axle?
3. With or without brakes? Smaller utility trailers often do not have brakes.
4. Optimum GVWR for my use?

I appreciate any comments.

Have a look at Weberlane trailera. I bought a 5'x8' galvanized, suits my needs perfectly.

I looked at some trailers that box stores sell, not impressed at what you get for the price.

 

[KennyG]

Longer is better. You need the room for attachments and to move the load to get the right balance. Most trailers seem to be built to be overly tongue heavy (not that it keeps people from screwing up). I had a 16' landscape trailer and the tractor ended up a little too far forward when I loaded it with the box blade attached. Now I've got an 18' car hauler and it works better, but if I haul a front engine car, it needs to be loaded backward to keep the tongue weight below 500 lbs.

 

[ultrarunner]

I went the opposite route of most.

I got a single HD axle. It's only 14'. I could get your tractor back and forth just fine.

I went to a local mfg and it was about $2500.

Me too because I already had it from the early 1960’s

Single Axle with 10’ rails fit my BX23 perfect.

I wish I could find the pictures of this same trailer hauling Shelby Cobras and GT40’s back in the day… million dollar vehicles today towed by Oldsmobile wagon with a 455 V8… fun times for a tag along kid.

Trailer has no springs but tows great… the secret is reduced tire pressure empty and add pressure to match load…

 

[4570Man]

I went the opposite route of most.

I got a single HD axle. It's only 14'. I could get your tractor back and forth just fine.

I went to a local mfg and it was about $2500.

A 14’ trailer is going to be a tight squeeze if you have a loader and implements. Also a single axle trailer bounces around more than a tandem axel does.

 

[mjonesnh]

Purchased a New Holland TZ25DA in 2005 and a 12' single axle trailer. Towed good and truck seemed to handle load well. Put a loader on it later and truck went through 4 way stop unable to stop in time, braking distances required went up dramatically. Went next week and traded for a 16' dual axle with brakes on both axles. Still have same trailer 19 years later even though I have a tractor that weighs around 4500lbs. Trailer handles it just fine. Do yourself a favor and consider a dual axle unit with brakes. One purchase and then done

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Do yourself a favor and consider a dual axle unit with brakes.

To avoid confusion, it's a tandem axle, not a single axle with duals, right?

 

[sandman2234]

The general consensus is that, although a 14 foot will hold the tractor with a loader, you still don't have room to adjust the tongue weight. That will make a lot of difference!
The second picture that PaulHarvey posted shows a tractor with a loader, with probably just about the right amount balance, judging by where the tractor sits. However, if you are going to be hauling a mower on the rear of your tractor, that trailer isn't long enough, not even close. Now, can it be done, yes..., but is it the best idea for a safe transport, I have my doubts.
I typically buy my trailers used, or build them. You can count on one hand and have fingers left over of the number of trailers I have ever bought new. I used to build trailers for people who needed custom hauling trailers for specialty items. Building trailers for sale in the normal use market isn't profitable in the one-off market.
If I were you, I would go minimum as a 16, or better yet an 18 foot dual axle trailer with at least one set of brakes. Stopping a loaded trailer with your Jeep in a panic stop isn't going to be easy, and you will see real quickly that this load is overly stressing your tow vehicle brakes.
David from jax

 

[dodge man]

I’m going to go with several others, 16 to 18 feet, two 3500 pound axles, for a total capacity of 7000 pounds and brakes. If you have just the tractor on it the trailer will look huge. If you have the FEL on and an implement on the back then it won’t look so ridiculous.

 

[mjonesnh]

To avoid confusion, it's a tandem axle, not a single axle with duals, right?

correct, tandem axle. brakes on both axles

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I’m going to go with several others, 16 to 18 feet, two 3500 pound axles, for a total capacity of 7000 pounds and brakes.

I would add one suggestion to that, based on experience. Get 5,200-lb. axles instead if the trailer will see more than occasional usage.

After having to replace axles three times on a light trailer that never had more than 3,000 lbs. on it, I will never use 3,500 lb. axles again.

Granted, that trailer saw a fair amount of miles, and it took a while before I realized that I had screwed up the caster on them, which lead to toe-out, and that certainly didn't help those cheap axles live.

Keep the 3,500 springs (or not, the axles don't care) but 5,200 pound axles have larger bearings and brakes and seem to last a lot longer, even with much higher loads. Over twice to be more exact.

 

[paulsharvey]

Well, true is, you also have to watch mission creep. If we get 9,999 capacity, 8x18; dual breaks, ect; we end up with a "dry" trailer weight of around 3500#. Then the issue is; we run our single ATV to the trail or pick up 500# of lumber; you start wishing you didn't have nearly 4000# of dead weight trailer....

So, single trailer, and the OP does specifically talk about budget; new. he's going to be tight getting a 6'4"x16', tandem, single set of brakes...

If budget wasn't an issue; a 6x12 or 6x14 light utility and a 7x18 equipment would be a great set up.

 

[Torvy]

A 14’ trailer is going to be a tight squeeze if you have a loader and implements. Also a single axle trailer bounces around more than a tandem axel does. View attachment 3650905

That wasn't the mission. Scope creep is real. To move that small tractor, a 14' single HD axle is fine.

If you have other parameters, the objective changes. In my case, a trailer big enough to carry tractor and implements would have meant buying a truck I otherwise didn't want or need. I deliberately bought a trailer that could haul my tractor itself in a pinch, but wouldn't tempt me to do too much.