Barndominium/Shop or "real" House?

Runner · Jul 10, 2025

I guess that might not even be a "code" requirement (it's not required by the Fuel Gas Code). Might just be a requirement from the utility. Fuel Gas Code only requires pressure testing of the "piping system" which is defined as being that portion from the "outlet of the service meter to the outlet of the appliance shutoff valve". Then appliance connections may be tested with "a noncorrosive leak-detecting fluid".

LouNY · Jul 10, 2025

WinterDeere said:
It would have to be "a", as the definition of "all" will surely change during the life of service, in almost any home.

Even our propane companies around here want "a" gas appliance installed before connecting, but you're free to add more after that.

I had to laugh the propane suppliers around here were that way. I was wanting to purchase a tank and have it filled. Then I would pipe it in. No way, they would sell the empty tank but not fill it unless their "people" installed the piping and connected the "appliance". So I ran the piping into the house for a gas kitchen range, installed the regulator and hooked up a 100# propane cylinder. Then I bought a 1000 gallon tank and had it delivered and filled. By that time my wife had changed her mind about what size and were the tank should be. So I dug the ditch from were the new tank was going to were my piping ended. They installed the flexible line in the ditch and because of the distance they installed a "high" pressure regulator on the tank 10 pound I believe and then the 10-12 inch regulator on my piping.

Runner · Jul 10, 2025

The HBA in my municipality would go out of their cotton picking minds if they had to comply with a code requirement saying appliances had to be in place for a gas line test, which is normally done at the rough-in stage.

WinterDeere · Jul 10, 2025

LouNY said:
No way, they would sell the empty tank but not fill it unless their "people" installed the piping and connected the "appliance".

I'm lucky enough that we still have one good family-owned propane company in the area, all the rest have been bought out by larger companies with the usual ridiculous policies and contract requirements.

My company allows me to run my own piping and install my own appliances, but they do ask that I schedule a service call for their team to inspect my work, after I do any of my own service. I'm happy to do that, since the cost is reasonable and a second set of eyes is always appreciated, when dealing with propane. Plus they have all the tools and experience to adjust the jetting or mixture on the appliance, for the working pressure and drop of the line it's on. Win/win, as that saves me in gas usage versus running at the usually-rich factory setting.

Their service guys know I've done a lot of general plumbing (we used to own a plumbing business), so I at least have some reasonable clue as to what I'm doing. Their lead tech told me my work was cleaner than their own, on my last garage wall furnace install.

aircommuter · Jul 14, 2025

WinterDeere said:
It would have to be "a", as the definition of "all" will surely change during the life of service, in almost any home.

Even our propane companies around here want "a" gas appliance installed before connecting, but you're free to add more after that.

It’s one of those insurance companies things.

ETD66SS · Sunday at 7:31 AM

Got the garage/workshop
pad poured yesterday.

Also finishing off the stone in front of the large OH doors:

Thall303 · Sunday at 8:17 AM

Very nice

EddieWalker · Sunday at 9:08 AM

Nothing better than concrete!!! How thick is it?

Are you going to use gravel outside the garage doors instead of concrete?

I just noticed that you framed your walls horizontally. Are you going to spray foam for insulation on your walls?

Thanks for the updates, it just keeps looking better every time!!!

ETD66SS · Sunday at 10:41 AM

EddieWalker said:
Nothing better than concrete!!! How thick is it?

Are you going to use gravel outside the garage doors instead of concrete?

I just noticed that you framed your walls horizontally. Are you going to spray foam for insulation on your walls?

Thanks for the updates, it just keeps looking better every time!!!

The concrete is nominally 4" thick above the nubs of the heat sheet foam. Some areas are 4-1/4" some 4-1/2" as it was not super easy to get the stone perfect. I made sure there were no areas less than 4". The nubs are 7/8" tall, so in the areas where there is no nubs the concrete is that much thicker.

I plan to use either fiberglass insulation or rockwool, no sprayfoam.