Diverter valve Vs. True third function

   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #31  
This double solenoid diverter valve works as good as any other diverter. They have about 218 of these in stock now. $153.

SAE 8 15 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-1

Here is how the valve is connected.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/i9-5117.pdf

Got a grapple on order, and think I will go with a diverter. Seems a bit less money, and simplier to install...at least for me.

J_J on the diverter in the link you mentioned, it does not by default go back to the orginal function as the other one mentioned. I'd like for it to work...press the button, you work the grapple. Release the button it's back to normal. From what I'm reading this valve does not work that way.

Also, looking at hoses, I probably will run 1/2", since it is all I have dealt with, but from what I read the fitting size on the hoses for 1/2" or 3/8" are different. How does that work with I guess are 1/2" ports on the diverter valve?

Others have mentioned the Bosch is still available...just not from surplus center. If so where is that at?
 
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #32  
Also...how do this valves mount to the tractor. The Bosch appears to have holes in the corners, but bolting that way also appears it would block some ports to the mounting plate. On the valve J_J reference, I don't see similar holes.
 
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #33  
I just don't see how this valve would work, I must be missing something. I could see it if one valve was normally open and one was normally closed, that way when the button was pushed they would just change state and transfer fluid from one to the other but I just don't see it as it is.
 
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #34  
"The Bosch appears to have holes in the corners, but bolting that way also appears it would block some ports to the mounting plate."

The Bosch valve - the holes in the corners are for stacking multiple valves, there are other holes (recessed for allen head bolts) for mounting the valve to your equipment. They are at 90 deg. to the "stacking" holes.

When stacked, the bosch has two inlet ports on one side of the stack, the default (no power) is straight thru to the other side, whether there is one valve or several stacked. Energizing the solenoid switches THAT valve to the side ports.

The fourth side of the valve is blank so that goes against whatever mounting surface you use.

Flow is thru any and all valves in the stack and out the other side with no voltage applied to any solenoid, so whatever function you're "stealing", the two hoses from the original control valve go in one side and two NEW hoses go from the OTHER side BACK to that original function (curl, for example) - then the SWITCHED ports (the pairs of ports that aren't used yet) go to whatever you are adding, and the solenoid for each diverter in the stack "diverts" flow from the normal destination to the new one.

Only way I've figured out to use the double solenoid setup for this is to have something like the Scorpion handle with 2 buttons and the trigger switch, and use ONE button to divert TO your grapple and the SECOND button to "un-divert" back to bucket curl. :confused:

Glad I have the Bosch... Steve
 
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #35  
Got a grapple on order, and think I will go with a diverter. Seems a bit less money, and simplier to install...at least for me.

J_J on the diverter in the link you mentioned, it does not by default go back to the orginal function as the other one mentioned. I'd like for it to work...press the button, you work the grapple. Release the button it's back to normal. From what I'm reading this valve does not work that way.

Also, looking at hoses, I probably will run 1/2", since it is all I have dealt with, but from what I read the fitting size on the hoses for 1/2" or 3/8" are different. How does that work with I guess are 1/2" ports on the diverter valve?

Others have mentioned the Bosch is still available...just not from surplus center. If so where is that at?[/QUOTE]

Contact me at Fit Rite Hydraulics.com ;)
 
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #36  
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #37  
MtnViewRanch,

Guesseral

BukitCase

If you are talking about the double solenoid valve, here is how it works.

You need a 3 position switch with the center pin +12 v.

With the switch in sw1, 12v is applied to the curl solenoid of the valve and the curl will work normally.

With the switch is sw2, 12v is applied to the grapple solenoid and the grapple will work.

If you leave the switch in neutral, the relief will activate because no fluid is flowing with no voltage applied.

Select your operation before using the lever.

The other single solenoid valve works different by using one solenoid to route the fluid .

In the no voltage state, the curl will work.

With 12v applied, the grapple will work.

I don't believe I said anything different. I do know how they work.

The diverter valve will have 6 ports, and the true 3rd function, will probably only have 4 ports unless you order the subplate with a relief valve port or a hyd gage port.
 
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #38  
A diverter is going to be 2 valves (1 for each line going to the cylinders) you put inline with your existing curl lines. Hit a button & they switch from curl to 3rd function. A fair bit easier than adding another valve into your power beyond loop. You need less hose too as you can put the valves in a convenient spot near the bucket.

You only get curl or 3rd function, not both at the same time as you already noted though. That's probably the biggest drawback.

I keep think about doing it with a 3 way valve instead of a 2 way to add a cylinder to my SSQA levers so my lazy *** doesn't have to get off the tractor to switch from bucket to forks (would need to get off & deal with 3rd function hoses for a grapple I don't yet have though).

I'm glad you posted this question Hokie because I am kind of curious as well. I thought I had my heart set on a third function but after some more research I am starting to think maybe a diverter valve would be my best option.

From what I've heard the plumbing to do a diverter is much simplier than a third funct. and I too like the idea of being able to feather the hydraulics. My main thought was if I was to use it for picking up hay bales or planting a tree with a root basket I would be much less likely to crush them.

Interested to hear what some of the people that have diverter valves or third funct. have to say.
I just received my grapple. I thought I had a 3rd function (what I ordered with a new tractor), but a diverter valve was installed.

The biggest problem I see is when I am getting rid of my blackberries. The "plant" is about 8' high and 50' wide and goes in about 30'. When I drive into the "bush", it would be nice to close the grapple while raising the curl to pull the plants out (I know, I can just lift the grapple).

Plus the problem of not really knowing the functionality of the diverter valve. I cannot see what is happening in the bush. The front of the tractor (and grapple) is buried deep in the plant. With experience, this should not be a problem. Just not the level of control I would like to have had.

BUT, I must repeat, the tractor and grapple are new to me.
 
   / Diverter valve Vs. True third function #39  
I just received my grapple. I thought I had a 3rd function (what I ordered with a new tractor), but a diverter valve was installed.

The biggest problem I see is when I am getting rid of my blackberries. The "plant" is about 8' high and 50' wide and goes in about 30'. When I drive into the "bush", it would be nice to close the grapple while raising the curl to pull the plants out (I know, I can just lift the grapple).

Plus the problem of not really knowing the functionality of the diverter valve. I cannot see what is happening in the bush. The front of the tractor (and grapple) is buried deep in the plant. With experience, this should not be a problem. Just not the level of control I would like to have had.

BUT, I must repeat, the tractor and grapple are new to me.
On an open center hydraulic machine like a CUT you generally can only get 1 function to work at a time. The exception to this would be lift & curl on the loader as they have some special plumbing in the valve block. If you want to use a red function, lift the 3 or or something, things get slow & funky. That's the nature of open center hydraulics. Closed center hydraulics like you'd find on an excavator can run multiple functions at a time, but are more complex & expensive.

You can make things work, but they get fiddly. I have a hydraulic post hole digger that runs off a 3rd function. If I try to raise or lower the boom the auger all but stalls. You get use to it & can fiddle enough to drill holes with it.

Spend some time working the functions while you can see what's going on. Work 1 function at a time & get that down before trying to add in your third function.

Also be careful about burying the front end into stuff. That's a great way to mangle hoses, hoods & radiators. These are tractors not armored bulldozers.
 
 

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