TnT question

[Shawn T. W.]

I don't remember what they are called but I have one factory on my Kubota L5030, it has a little hand crank, no wrenches needed ...

 

[bdhsfz6]

I leave my top link on all the time, connected to one SCV.

The side link cylinder I now only install if I an using a rake or blade that I specifically want to tilt. All other times I switch back to a rigid like which happens to be the one that originally was supplied with the tractor. I found that for other implements that wanted to be level, the hydraulic side link was always drifting down and I was always hunting around trying to find level again. A fixed like solved that problem.

I also have three SCVs, which so far is all I have needed.

So I would start by getting a fixed link to use in place of the hydraulic side link. I'd probably spend the $$ on a factory link so the angles, lengths, hole sizes, and clearances are correct.

I leave the hydraulic lift link on all the time. To compensate for bleed down, I use a manually adjustable lift link on the opposite side. I adjust it to match the length of the fully extended hydraulic link

 

[Shawn T. W.]

The links are overpriced , especially through tractor dealers.

Yup! Here is one for my Kubota L5030 ...

I paid $357 for the CAT 2 hydraulic top link in post # 11 from my local Massey Ferguson dealer, including the hose and ends!

 

[RobertN]

Wow! Tractor Supply has Cat 2 top links for $65...

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-adjustable-top-link-cat-2-288959

 

[JWR]

Somehow "I told you so" comes to mind...

 

[turkish]

I have a TnT kit on my MX5800 and frequently need the two remotes for other implements. For short duration use, I disconnect the hoses, cap them and use a bungee to store them out of the way. Most hydraulic hoses have a ball valve that seals them when they are disconnected. Some do not, so make sure yours have a valve before trying this.

Over time though, the cylinders tend to bleed down and lose their position. For long term or seasonal implement use, I remove the top link cylinder and use a fixed length link. I bought mine at Tractor Supply for about a third the cost of the OEM parts.

To avoid the hassle, I eventually added a third remote and ran hoses forward on the tractor so I could use the 3rd function valve as a 4th remote.

Mine is, I think a factory TnT system, and there are no valves that I see between the remote outlets and the cylinders. That may be an easy add-on, though. The manual top link from TSC is on my afternoon shopping list. The side link is the tough one.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Mine is, I think a factory TnT system, and there are no valves that I see between the remote outlets and the cylinders. That may be an easy add-on, though. The manual top link from TSC is on my afternoon shopping list. The side link is the tough one.

The "valve" is just a spring loaded ball in the tip of the male pioneer connector. Most have them. Just tap them with a block of wood to relieve the pressure.

 

[turkish]

The "valve" is just a spring loaded ball in the tip of the male pioneer connector. Most have them. Just tap them with a block of wood to relieve the pressure.

Ah. Gotcha. Makes sense.

 

[Fallon]

Control valves leak down over time. But if you unplug the QDs, unless they are leaking oil externally somewhere an unplugged cylinder won't leak down. When I put on my snowblower, it goes on for 4+ months. I don't have any noticable leak down.

When connected my TNT cylinders leak down a lot due to sloppy OEM valve clearances. The dealer actually had to swap out several valves they were so bad. They finally put a check valve on my tilt cylinder to stop leakdown. It breaks float, but stopped my leakdown. I use float a lot on my top link, so they put that on the best valve & I just live with it. 0 issues with leakdown when unplugged though.