Question on bar length (East coast!)

[fustsgt]

OK I sympathize. A couple years ago I went for the Husky 24" saw and it worked nicely for the 20+" logs I needed to cut up with one issue.

Starting the thing was more difficult than my CS400 18" saw. Last year, I wound up taking it in for repairs because I couldn't start the thing to save . . . well you know.

As I was giving the shop my details, the fellow came out from the back to take my saw into the shop part of his operation as I turned back to the lady taking my details, I heard the saw fire up.

Turns out, I simply don't have the right arm for a saw this big - or the 'drop it' technique the repair fellow has perfected.

As to the bending, I squat down and cut halfway through the log moving from one end to the other, then roll it over and finish the cuts that way. (Using the CS400 18" saw).

"What a drag it is getting old . . . ."

But it beats the alternative...I'm 83 and I prefer being seen to being viewed!

 

[oldballs]

Depending on the shape and position of the fallen tree, I use my Pole Saw to limb. I can reach higher and further that way. But I ain't in the tree business. Some times I use a 20 inch bar or a 16. I get er done with whatever.........At 5 ft 2 inches...I don't have to bend over much anyway.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[kenmbz]

I use a pole saw for anything under about 8", 10" bar is not too top heavy.

CS-490 with an 18" or 20" bar, based on size of tree. Usually just leave the 20" on it.

The CS-620p with a 24" bar is perfectly balanced for getting the larger trees down and bucked on the ground.
Hauling it to the tree, it's heavy, but in use it is well balanced.

I agree balance and HP should get you to the right bar size.

Using a tractor (I use forks , don't have a grapple) or timber peavy with log stand to lift helps the back issues.

 

[Lavender Valley]

You can get lightweight bars that will keep the saw weight close to what you have. I recommend using a skip tooth chain; the saw will cut at the same speed (sometimes faster)as they don't bog down with too much sawdust in the cut.

 

[xyz123]

As to Balance, I could hang quite a long bar on Either the ProMac 10-10s or the Mac 10-10 Automatic.
Those two have some heft to 'em! ;-)

I had the newer Mac 555 like 3rd Gen of mac 10-10. Friend bought new.

I wouldnt want no more then this on it. Original bar he bought it with.

 

[WinterDeere]

You can get lightweight bars that will keep the saw weight close to what you have. I recommend using a skip tooth chain; the saw will cut at the same speed (sometimes faster)as they don't bog down with too much sawdust in the cut.

I run skip chain on my 36" bar, since I sold my 135 cc saw and now run that bar on "only" 85cc. It's a good way to reduce the horsepower required to pull a long chain thru a big log, but make no mistake... it does not cut at the same speed!

Skip = half as many cutters per inch of chain, so if sharpened correctly and powered by a saw big enough to not bog, it's cutting at nearly half speed.

 

[WinterDeere]

I had the newer Mac 555 like 3rd Gen of mac 10-10. Friend bought new.

I wouldnt want no more then this. Original bar he bought it with.

View attachment 4125228

We had two of those Mac 10-10's, when I was growing up. They were stolen by a rotten family member.

 

[kenmbz]

We had two of those Mac 10-10's, when I was growing up. They were stolen by a rotten family member.

That's sad. First Chainsaw I ever held as a kid was a Mac that one of the neighbors had (full time lumberjack). I could barely lift it
Unfortunately, can't pick family.

 

[CalG]

Just in from "the saw bench" , perking up the 10-10s
It's in pretty good shape, but hasn't really been run in a couple of years. I did buy it new, and have only dropped a few trees on it ;-).
Dirty though! I can't imagine "people" putting a saw away so filty with sawdust, bar oil, and exhaust grime!
It's much better now ;-)

But, an interesting observation... even though the muffler fasteners were snugged up fine, with the locking tabs still bent over, there is no gasket at the port flange!. They are not spendy to purchase, but considering how simple a part, I'll just make one out of some sheet copper I've got kicking around.

Both fuel and oil tanks were empty, but still "wet" inside. the fuel tank was sloshed out and the pickup filter given a bath. Fuel hose still flexes. But I must have bent the throttle connector rod, because there is not enough room to get my finger under the trigger after it has been released. I should pull the carb anyway, just for a look.
I should pull the clutch and grease the roller bearing, but the nut is tight. I may be happy just to oil it.

This post might better go in the "another junk chainsaw" thread, as I'm just rambling.

A pleasant rainy afternoon in the shop!

 

[kozal01]

On the topic of having a longer bar for less bending over I know its subjective, and there are many who think its dumb but in my case its a back saver. Having a back and shoulder injury from my time in the service its much easier for me to stand up and limb and buck with a longer bar than it is to be crouched our bent over all day. The added weight of my light bar is not significant and I actually like it to be a bit bar heavy anyway.