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After I posted the picture I began to wonder about the small red wire and had to go back to my owners manual. That small red wire is a modification to the starting circuit in which a relay was added to prevent a fuse that would intermittently blow. Thanks for the suggestion of using a remote...

So in my picture somewhere under the black cover, behind the lug which the red wire is attached, there is another terminal these two need to be connected. I guess for my situation you would need to remove the black cover.

I've often wondered that same question. Here is a picture of the starter on our TC33D if that could help someone describe what you do?

This is my SWAG (Super Wild Ass Guess), its number 27. However, you certainly have the advantage of seeing more of the parts and their relationship to each other. Do you have any more pictures? If I'm understating the schematic both #5 and #26 are hollow with #27 passing through both...

The graph comes from a Canadian battery manufacture (Rolls Battery Engineering), here is a link to the site: Temperature vs. Capacity - Flooded Lead Acid Batteries I'm sure at -35C there is still some energy remaining in a battery. The site also describes how the "life cycle" of a lead-acid...

I'm always amazed at how much the capacity of a lead acid battery is influenced by temperature. At -15C (5F) the capacity is reduced by 50% compared to the battery being at 25C (77F):

The attachment should provide the data you are looking for.

Ya I'm thinking timbatrader, Grandad4 and 07wingnut are on to something. This Youtube video might be explaining what's going on as well: You just don't experience it when going downhill because your "coasting" going up hill is when everything become "under tension" with your chains digging...

On my TC33D with a 757C backhoe the dealer installed a male fitting into a block mounted to the side of the tractor, see picture below. In the picture the male fitting currently has a hose connected to it with a female fitting that I have circled. This is the setup used when the backhoe is not...

Yes, as others have mentioned your best approach is to look underneath it for any wires that are disconnected or broken. If you are lucky they may have separated at a plastic connector and it may be as simple as plugging the two ends back together or you may need to splice the wires back...

I noticed the lack of oil in the North East of New York more than a month ago!

Glad to learn your tractor is back starting and running smoothly and its nice to know what solved the problem!

Thanks for such a through post with pictures, part numbers and pricing. Glad to also learn your problem has been resolved!

Thanks for letting us know you fixed it.

Maybe a rodent chewed a wire somewhere since it has sat for so many months?

Messick's has a very good online parts look up. New Holland T1510 - 3 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR(11/07 - 12/12) Parts Diagrams I believe this diagram is for your T1510, but you should confirm for the year it was manufactured (#3) Hydro Filter, (#27) Hydraulic Filter:

Glad you were able to find the issue and thanks for letting us know.

Isn't it always the little things! So glad you found the issue and thanks for letting us know what it was.

Sounds like Brownie did his job...you are now up and "on guard duty" so he can now go back to sleep know the property is safe:):)

Mice are the worst!

While my 2003 TC33D is a much older tractor the modification for the dedicated relay to the starter and a more robust (NAPA) ignition switch fixed all my starting issues.

Hope you can find the solution. What year was your tractor built?

Glad to hear you got it home and I guess if she starts to act up again you a few ideas to try. Sometimes these intermittent electrical issues can be the most challenging to diagnose, especially now that it's now broke how can you fix it!

Congratulations also, I'm sure you will get many hours of enjoyment out of it and all the attachments. I'm very jealous of your nice flat concrete floor!!

"And if I push the brake pedal too hard it dies everytime " This clearly doesn't seem right. Applying the brakes should only stop your tractor from moving, not shut the engine off. Is this a new tractor that you bought from a dealer? If so I'd give them a call and walk them through your...

Yes, you push the lever down to engage. To release it, you press on the brake peddles.

Oh my sorry, I totally brain farted, the lever for my New Holland is on the right of the seat. For the Massey its in front of your right knee with an orange colored handle, see picture:

Does anyone remember this thread?: Kubota L6060 Engine failure While I don't think the fuel was indicated as a factor in this failure I remember the discussion around how critical the quality of the fuel can be for newer tractors. I will only use diesel that is sourced from a "gas station"...

The manual is usually behind the seat, mine was in a black envelope which made it blend in with its' surroundings, I had to look twice before I found it. If you really didn't get one your dealer owes you one. My parking brake on my 1736 is engaged by pressing on peddles and at the same time...

Maybe the connection for the tubing is a compression ferrule?

I'm not sure this is the exact model that you ordered but the following video should provide a good understanding on how these mechanical timers work:

Here is the full electrical schematic and a description and test instructions for the Operator Safety Module.

See the attached electrical schematic which I believe is accurate for your TC35DA. There is a Transmission Range Neutral Safety Switch (see bottom left). But I believe that Safety Switch would only not allow you to start your tractor, you could confirm this by placing the range lever in either...

I'm not aware of any electrical switches on the forward or reverse pedals, at least for my TC33D. As far as I know there are switches on the Seat, PTO, Range Selector, Parking Brake, Foot Brake. I don't think your issue is electrical, but hopefully others will confirm. Let us know what you...

That's strange. I now see that my attachments did not post, they were the starting circuit mod schematic and the wiring schematic for the TC deluxe tractors, but I see you have your wiring schematics and dlctcg has posted the starting mod. Good luck, hope your able to resolve your issue.

Well that didn't take long! Congratulations!

You nailed it. The ignition switch is well documented as a weak link and the modification of adding a starter relay on its own circuit has helped many other owners. I've attached a few pages that you may find useful.

I also modified the starting circuit to my TC33D by adding the relay because on numerous unsuccessful start attempts. After the modification it has started every time.

Thanks for the update, I hope loading on the trailer goes well for you, do you have someone to help you? It certainly is no fun working in the heat or cold and the older we get it becomes even less tolerable.

Yes, maybe tapping on the starter to see if that allows it to make contact. Also, wiggle the levers (speed range, PTO) as maybe one of there switches is not functioning or out of alignment. Also, if you remove some of the cowlings you will be able to access wiring and give it some wiggles as...

The following post may help with your issue if you have not already read it: My New to Me TC40D- Dilemma, fuel solenoid I'm also attaching some pages from the manual which should help you locate and test you PTO switch, do you also have a MID PTO?

Glad to hear you found out what the issue was and for letting others know. I wonder how the price you paid for yours compares to other brands?

Sorry I don't know of any sources for a gauge, maybe others will reply if they know.

What RPM's are you running when its jerky? If your working between 2,000 & 2,500 try between 1,500 and 2,000 unless you really need the power.

This PDF should help, let us know what you find.

And thanks for letting us know what you found so that others in the future can possibly benefit.

Are these what you are looking for?

Keep the pictures coming, this is an interesting project to follow!

I'm not familiar with the power shift, is it all controlled electrically? Just wondering if there are any linkages which may have "play / slop" that has allowed the shifting to change? Or if its all electric could a mouse have chewed some wires? Sorry not a lot of help, hopefully someone with...

It is still probably a bad O-Ring. Did you have it disconnected recently?

Sounds like you have found your issues. I had to replace my ignition switch early on with something more robust. Here is the thread where I documented it: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc33d-glow-plug-problem-fixed.109372/

I would also suspect a weak battery. If you try to jump your tractor with a good battery and the battery in the tractor is bad, possibly a shorted cell, the bad battery in your tractor can "suck" the energy out of the good battery to the point where the good battery is not effective enough to...

A relay could also not be working. Some of the relays maybe the same on your tractor and you could possibly swap one that is not critical for starting to confirm. Also, these relays are fairly common and can be obtained at a local auto parts store such as NAPA for considerable less cost than a...

Very interesting, thanks for posting. Its a clear reminder to know/research an area before you buy a house.

Thanks for clarifying what might have caused the issue, we can now understand the circumstances. I hope going forward there is less tampering with your equipment.

I know dealers have to make money, but one thing I hate is fees on everything, like the utility bills (phone, electric, gas, etc.). Were these fees disclosed upfront with the quote? If not, I'd say that's foul play.

Wow! Do you have a picture of the broken one? What were you doing when it broke? My best guess is the OEM part is what you are going to need. Messisks is a good online source if you do not want to go back to your dealer: https://www.messicks.com/vendor/new-holland However, I would have to...

Glad you were able to find the issue!

This was the only one I could find doing a quick search: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/ford-1715-injection-pump-info.428818/

I have not but if I'm remembering correctly it can occur when something (seal) has failed with the fuel pump. I'll see if I can find an old thread.

Its an old thread but someone from NAPA with this part number might be able to help you out: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc33d-glow-plug-problem-fixed.109372/

You definitely need to open the fuel lines to each injector, one at a time and crank the engine over until you see fuel coming out. Here is a short video that describes the process:

Thanks for posting your fix so that other will benefit in the future and great pictures!

After you have cut some with it you'll have to let us know what you think of it.

When you stated I had assumed switches were jumped by the previous owner, sorry my bad. Have you tried to give the starter a tap when you turn the key and all you hear is a click as I'm wondering if the starter solenoid is just stuck?

The circuit mention by "Dlctcg" for supplying direct power to the starting solenoid is mentioned in post #51 of this thread, I suspect you have a issue with the safety switches that have been jumped/by-passed: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc33d-wont-start.124642/page-6

The 261CM is my favorite saw as well for the Hp to weight ratio its hard to beat. I've had one now for about 6 years and probably cut 25 full cords of firewood with it, always starts with 3 or less pulls and it just runs.

I think Eric confirmed your saw is in need of being rebuilt. I hope you were able to get some good use out of it it before this. I think if it was me and in your circumstances I'd buy a new one, sometimes you can invest a lot of effort and money into a rebuild, but I can understand if you...

I had to edit my post to correct the wording, but it sounds like you got the idea. To me 6 seconds, especially without the bar and chain sounds like poor compression, hopefully others will give their opinion.

If you hold the saw by the handle of the pull cord with only the weight of the saw does it unwind the cord rather quickly (5 sec)? Its a crude test but I have seen the weight of the saw unwind the cord and it a pretty good indication of poor compression.

I don't see the pictures either?

Here is the section for the water pump removal and installation.

I believe you can use the chart on the second page of this attachment to determine the correct torque, its from the service manual for a TC33 & TC33D

Yes it is always nice when others who have had a problem post what they did to fix it, that way others can benefit from the previous owners experience.

The Sthil 2-in1 chain sharpener is about as easy as it gets:

This is a very unfortunate situation for the OP, I'll be watching this thread to understand the final outcome.

I'm not sure that the quality of batteries has decreased that much rather there has been a tremendous increase in the technology in new cars which places a drain on the battery. Without driving many miles each day other than city driving it hard to keep the batteries charged up. A trickle...

When it will not start have you tried to "jump the starter" just to see if it will turn over? This would confirm that your battery cables are not only able to conduct the voltage but also have sufficient contact for carrying enough current to run the starter.

I think we can all agree that this design of the single pin support of the lift arms from a casting is not the best design. The stabilizers are attached to the rear axle with a bracket which is non-cast steel, presumably more durable than the casting which the lift arms are mounted to with a...

These pages might help

Hi Kevin, This may not be an exact diagram of your situation but maybe it will help what I'll describe below. The "roll pin" item #11 in the diagram is what I believe you said you used a long punch on to drive back into the arm assembly (item #10) in the diagram. In the center of item 10...

I'm coming clean on something dumb I did just the other evening in the hopes someone else doesn't do it. So I haven't run the tractor for about a month now since this time of year I only use it for blowing snow. We get about 6" of snow during the day so when I get home from work I got out to...

My friend has a L235 which about 23 years old and tells me he has never used a engine oil rated for diesel usage. He uses regular oil for a gasoline engine. Can anyone tell me if his L235 should use a oil designated for a diesel?

Well, I finally got around to replacing my ignition switch and in the process I believe I found my intermittent glow plug problem (with turning the ignition switch to the first position the glow plugs would not power up). Due to previous starting issues I had removed and disassemble the OEM...

Here is the situation, ran little blue (TC33D) about a week ago with no problems, parked her in the garage. Last night went out to start her, turned the key and waited for the glow plug light to turn off then continued to turn the key, starter did not engage, just a very faint tic. Upon...