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Paccar engines are Cummins and what about Detroit?

It’s an option when ordering a truck.

Take that pdf map and put it into Avenza maps then you can track yourself for your paths.

A good one I haven’t seen mentioned yet is OnXhunt it shows boundary lines as well as being able to drop your pins. You are also able to download the maps for offline use, it’s an app I use in conjunction with a few others for working in the woods.

We also have that style here but instead of locking out they will lift with the reverse lights, the ones with the dolly are fine if you’re doing long logs that can bunk. Now some of us put frame inserts in the bunks that allow us to haul short logs and if you’re running a 3 axle trailer you’ll...

A switch in the cab.

A three axle with a lockable tandem dolly pole for the PNW this company and General are what’s considered the standard for these types of trailers. With the three axle with the dolly up front it allows them to haul longer lengths without having to use a steer axle trailer.

Yes they do, in the old pole trailer someone lucky as well as small got to ride in the little car under the load to steer.

That’s a steerable pole trailer, a dolly is attached to something with a fifth wheel plate or bearing.

You mean a long logger with a reach? Or log trailer without a reach as in a pole trailer? This is a long logger with a reach the reach steers the trailer, this is easier to back up then the mule trains are.

Come on out an show us on the logging roads we have out here there’s a reason the trailers are packed in on the truck as much as possible. There’s place we’ve had to back around twists and corner a mile or two there’s just no place for a turn around. That one is setup to hop up on the back of...

It is a pup, a west coast mule train or short logger is a different sort of beast you can run up to 5 axles most are two axle or three lumber pups and mule train pups are where the term wiggle worm comes from. The advantage to the setup in this picture is you can hop up the front axle of the...

Try a mule train short logger trailer out in the wood a with a mile or two back in with the trailer down that’s why some of the dollies are lockable.

It has one, there’s a locking pin to center the dolly for backing up.

I think both are available to all markets, I’ve husqvarna c83 and it’s not as quick as what I like my square to be. I’d be interested in what the wheel will look like because you’d need some interesting geometry on it to make it look like that as well as possible a larger wheel like the old...

Stihl makes a hex file for the new style chains that have came out other then that I’m not sure of anyone else who does.

The only one I’d add that you missed John is the Vanguard style chain which is completely different then what you have posted there. Vanguard is more of a safety chain vs reduced kickback chain like you have posted.

Look up Oregon 73 and 75V they are a low kickback full chisel chain, not that many years ago I could get square chisel in safety chain. Oregon 73/75V are the same as Vanguard.

Who needs wedges anyways but it sure was a nice to do some cutting.

I’ve had a 555 since 2012 I think and a 562 since 2013 neither of them have missed a beat. You’ve seen some of the pictures of the abuse I’ve put them through over the years it’s a hard saw to honestly not try.

Why not run boot camp version of Windows to run some of those programs then?

There’s a mill out here that specializes in beams they do both straight as well as engineered beams. Besides doing that they do a lot of the historic gutters for back east, I’ve cut a lot of gutter stock timber last year.

Some cool features like being able to import direct from McMaster Carr and a few things like that really make it a handy little program.

Try Fusion 360 a personal license is free to use and it works on Mac pretty well.

Is the Case getting some swimming lessons?

Age will do it more then region, the same age of timber in the valley vs where I am there’s a huge difference in height as well as size.

It’s a weird softwood, it’s hard dense but still is a little flexible till about 50 years old once they start hitting 60 they start hardening up good. We have hardwoods out here like Oak, Maple, and Ash, but I’d rather burn Doug fir it’s a much nicer heat heck you don’t see hardwood pellets out...

20.7 btu’s but it does depend on age.

It’s not horribly heavy it’s a very unique wood. Looking it up I’m finding 33 pounds per cubic foot so the same as black ash, but this will very depending on age. Take the stuff that’s 100 years or older it’s a lot heavier then the young stuff you would normally find for sale. Something like...

You guys should try some Doug Fir it’d surprise you for its strength as well as having the ability to really have some good spans.

Check out Fusion 360 or if you’re looking for something super simple go Tinkercad.

Trying to slip a few back off the stump?

Lead means to directional fall so everything is going the same direction so everything can easily yarded in the most efficient manner possible. The only time this isn’t done is a cutting line or a power line.

Kind of curious how many of you guys fall for lead or does it matter to most?

I keep them sprayed with anti fog but there’s only so much you can do for sweat and temp differences. Sometimes the best thing is nothing at all with keeping an eye on where the chips are headed goes a long ways.

This is the norm out here even in the wet, wonder if the labonville pants allow more sliding vs jeans.

I good set of internals are hard to beat, they button into the jeans and there’s very few made that actually do this.

Normally see chaps of some sort here either internal or external ones with a set of double knee logger jeans. We don’t see the European style gear out here unless it’s a power line arborist crew that never spent time in the brush. A good set of internals are what most guys wear being you can’t...

I’ve wore the bug eye style mesh goggles in the past but they suck in the rain and every time you look up the fines go right through same goes for the screen on the hard hats. Safety glasses or nothing in my book are the answers neither of them mess with your vision well sighting in either like...

My question would be for them is are these from the saw or how the saw is being used? As far as safety glasses go you might have a hard time finding some that don’t fog up, personally I have a set of Oakleys I treat regularly when falling timber if I wear any at all. No matter what way you go...

It’s not always just dropping timber out here, normally if you’re falling timber by hand you’re bucking as well nothing there is different. I think what’s different is how the saws are ran with the longer bars you’re much more aware of where the tip is vs ground.

I’ve sent quite a few chains back to the East coast to cut hardwoods I’ve never had a complaint about life with them. A square that doesn’t have a beak with the good angles will fast and not dull very quickly, the biggest issue is guys getting beak on the corner saying it dull fast. We use...

Fresh off the grinder with a small gullet and the depth gauges dropped it’s not as aggressive as what I’d run normally it was a guy’s first set of square chains I setup for him.

There’s also two kind of chisel, round is slow, vibrates more, and is more for dirty uses. Then there’s square chisel when I said I sharpen a new chain it’s to make the chain cut like they should with my expectations of how I need that chain to act in the wood I’m falling. Semi chisel is a much...

Income is your cash flow in it’s not your profit.

Just because you have that kind of cash flow doesn’t mean you’re making money.

check This is why I say a new chain needs sharpened.

Yes when production cutting a brand new chain cuts like garbage, I’m wanting something that’s aggressive, fast cutting, and will pull on its own without me pushing on the saw.

It’d come down to the profile of the cutter or the hardness of the chrome on the cutters. As far as sharpening files are fine for round cutting firewood but for square and production falling square is hard to bet. Stihl makes a good chain but I’ve never cared for itself I can’t get the cutters...

When thinning there’s two schools of thought one is crop tree release or there’s some that do understory release both have their places, but both require a clear cut at some point. I’ve thinned patches like you’ve described and honestly the best thing is to clear it off to start over.

A healthy stand will naturally promote good wildlife, we’ve been doing this for over 100 years on 1000 acres of timber. I’ve done some of the government cuts in the past as well as small woodland we’re going to do food plots/habitat ground and honestly there’s no difference between a good forest...

Not always sometimes it’s a block it really depends on the situation and what the tree needs.

They meet in the center so the block will be loose one trick is to bore in again for a little larger kerf, use your axe with the cutting edge to stick into the block, or you can use wedges to get them out. If the double rams are going in the seat is done differently but it’s roughly the same idea.

Some fun from almost 10 years ago a little bit of stair action in a maple as well as a cedar also a spring board in the low side of that same cedar to get the double. A little jack work on a cutting line to keep them out of the younger fir.

They were good at spitting cams out the back of the block, taking out timing covers and don’t last as long as some other engines available of the same size.

Depends on what series of the B series 5.9, some of them had a lot of issues.

That would depend on the stepper motors that are on the board, my Ender with the stock board was terrible for noise but with a BTT SKR Mini E3 board it’s pretty well silent now. My stuff is a hobby with the ability to prototype something or make stuff for our equipment that’s not available...

I’d bet our short small ones are 20’ with the big 5/8’s being 30’ they wrap up short enough you can carry them on your shoulder. I’m not always working in big stuff I do cut smaller stuff that requires cable on steep ground that’s all hand fell where we’ll leave one cat on top of the hill and...

It can also be a trait of a heavy bed style machine, both of my machines run on Klipper with the CR-10 printing up around 100mm or higher with no ringing. Klipper Firmware is replaces Marlin but requires a Raspberry pi computer to run everything it does all the computing well the main board only...

You might look into Klipper it’ll help speed up the prints as well as help with the ringing that’s showing up there in those prints.

You could with bells on there, I couldn’t imagine personally ever packing chains and being able to swing one around a log well being in the air. As far as control that would depend on the type of mainline being used, for timing there’s a skidder style where you could run multiple bells on the...

Just I quick question why do you guys use choker chains instead of cable chokers?

You running Klipper or Marlin firmware?

If you’re going to go that route I’d go with the Ender 5 the carriage will be more stable and as you learn you could speed it up easier as well. Myself if you’re after an i3 style printer I’d take a good look at the cr10 v3 or v2 price shouldn’t be much different and it’s more machine for the money.

Who needs wedges.

Another good option is a CR-10 V3 it works out of the box, the only thing I’ve changed on this machine so far has been the extruder as well as the hot end so I can run higher temps to go with the higher speeds I run at. If I’m looking for a beginners printer I’m looking for something with a...

Here’s a 500i full comp square running a 36” light weight bar Then one of my 395’s running a 36 with a fresh a little bit on the grabby side on the undercut square chain as well. I’d rather pack the 500i any day of the week but if I needed to make money with only one saw everyday I’d pickup...

By doing that you’re missing a few huge things that will help the chain last longer one is removing the chain to clean bar rails and flip the bars so you’re rails wear evenly. I look at it differently then most of the guys here I’m falling for production so swapping a chain is faster then filing...

Should be and are correct are two different things there’s a huge difference in a chain with high or low depth gauges. Even with using a file guide doesn’t mean you’re sharpening a cutter to its full capability of cutting speed. There’s more to a sharp cutter then just chrome being exposed you...

N80 Could you throw up a picture of the cutters and depth gauges of the chain? I’m very picky on a chain a fresh off the roll chain cuts like garbage it’s slow vs a ground chain. As far as a larger saw having ran saws falling timber for around 15 years I’m more of a husky guy but do run...

Looks like a busheler cutter judging by the photo.

Not just that most of Oregon’s Christmas trees are burnt this year so they have zero value for anything other then pulp/chip wood.

It’ll prime the cylinder, myself I don’t care for primer bulbs it’s one more thing that will fail at some point.

Do some pulls with the ignition off then switch back on it should pop with the choke after that I should fire.

I’ve noticed it well falling timber with the water that they can hold if I’m not wearing long sleeves I’ll break out and itch.

It sure smells nice but will make you itch like you know what.

I didn’t think that through the other day but the fastest way to split a log is a shear style head you could split 4’ pretty quickly.

Use the same idea to build something like it.

Danzco out here use to make a stump splitter that would pin on to a heel rack of a shovel (tracked log loader with a live heel and special boom) to do exactly that. https://www.6kproducts.com/heel_rack_attachment.html

Look up a stump splitter it’s one way you could split the stuff.

Getting close to the max of the head

I’ve 3d printer the gauges in the past as well as Oregon they sell them for cheap or they use to be cheap for the plastic ones.

If the wheel is producing a flat face are you going down far enough in the gullet? Have you checked the profile of the wheel with a profile gauge? What’s your head angle set? How about your downward angle?

We have a couple of small saws that have 20’s on them and I can swap out a chain quicker then my guy can file that 20. If you guys were doing it for production you wouldn’t be filing in the brush it’s more of a break more then anything. Can I ask why everywhere east of the Rockies runs such...

That’s what gassing up is for a drink for the saw and a drink of water for you then back to setting them up. Don’t feel bad I carry a lumber crayon too but I use to make qualities and sizes on the butts as I’m cutting.

Grinding one side with a 32” semi skip chain. Setting the depth gauges

How many chains do you buy and toss is a better question in the last month? The cheap grinders use to start at 40 dollars us not that many years ago.

The grinders are easy to use as long as you set them up correctly it’s no different then a file in that respect. I’ve fixed a lot of chains that have been filed by guys or even guys using those jigs.

I’ve always been told that a guy can file his 72 driver chain faster then it is to swap one out I’m willing to bet I could swap a 32 or 36 out quicker then a guy could file a 20. With that said I’d rather grind in the evening/afternoon there’s things I look for in a chain, speed, straightness of...

You don’t have to have a grinder but it sure helps a lot it’s a tool when used correctly makes for a good cutting chain. Do you need as many grinders as I have? No, but I have different grinders setup for different applications. Just give you an idea I have one that does nothing but square...

A new chain off the roll at the very least needs the rakers taken down, most of the time I’ll throw them on the grinder to adjust the angle from brand new so everything I’m working with is predictable.

It’s just time to learn to sharpen a chain and do it so a new chain off the roll cuts like garbage in comparison.

That would depend on the pole if you’re cutting just 40’s they will be small enough a harvester can handle them. 125’s or 175’s is a whole another ball game and a joy to get down without snapping.

Out here it’s used for pressure treated lumber.

Those would of been some nice 32’s.

Hydraulics are the easy part motors and stuff are no problem either we have a lot of left over parts from previous processor heads. Hydraulic motors I’ve got two 3/4” saw chain two choose from to drive the band with. As far as angle iron I’m not sure that’d be the best choice my head says...

Quick question for you band mill guys been talking about building a band mill that capable of cut up to 60” 36’ pieces is there a cutting head you’d recommend or just build one?

It depends on what I’m doing if it’s younger thinning it’s pretty much all joysticks unless I overshot a length I want. I’ve ran the machine both ways and honestly it’s not bad doing the whole push buttons to run the head all day depending on how it’s setup. Right joystick rocker Up- Full head...

Do you like buttons and computers?

I take it you’ve never been over the PNW? Those trees are on the short side 125-150’ range as far as the brush goes that’s after an hour ripping out huge amounts of vine maples to save bars and chains. This side of the country is completely different then back east in the late 90’s early 2000’s...

Another way to do it is domino fall so there’s enough weight to get stuff going.

One thing you can try to keep from getting hung up is putting a full face dutchman in with a narrow face it’ll get the stem off the stump that much quicker with more force.

Is it this stuff? http://nativeplantspnw.com/bitter-cherry-prunus-emarginata/

It is cherry out here isn’t like back east it’s a junk wood but then again most hardwoods out here are junk compared to Doug Fir.

@hunt4570 This stuff is junk trust me it stinks when it’s burnt if I was going to smoke with something I’d rather use Red Alder it leaves a really nice flavor. @BackRoad If it does it wouldn’t matter the closest mill that accepts black ash is about 1.5hr away with almost no pay for it...

Nothing like using the stuff as trail trash like ash, maple, and if I really have to cherry.

Heck they all get cut into 8’ lengths anyways so what would 16’s hurt.

Man I wish I could send even 16’s for hemlock our shortest is 26’s plus a foot of trim preferred is 36-40’s.

No that’s second growth Doug fir, you guys would cry if you saw what we do with most hardwoods out here.

The top dollar log was actually one log after that long butt was taken a 40’ low taper Japanese export log. That long butt will most likely be pulped if I don’t cut it into something myself.

Which side was the face and any guesses why?

This is the exact place in the PNW you’ll meet a log truck or a lowboy we’ve had a few close calls with roadies and honestly you shouldn’t be on the road you’re going to get hurt or worse yet hurt someone else.

For a long time the bigger pro husky saws had the hole through to grease the bearing but it seems like the newer series don’t. All the Stihl saws I have don’t have it and in someways it’s a good thing not having it one less place for stuff to build up you’re also less likely to containment the...

That’s the thing most don’t understand why our stumps are normally taller then back east is we deal with flare on the butt which isn’t accepted and we can’t trim the flutes. The one video is on a property line with it being the last row of trees so height wasn’t as critical, the other one...

I’ll grease them on a regular basis it’s a lot cheaper then a crankshaft on something like my 500i.

This is a thinning machine it’s light compared to the equipment you see the guys use on the clear cuts. That stuff I’m cutting there should make some Japanese export which is a fairly strict clean log.

I’ve cut 32” with it, delimb you’re in the 24/28” range depending on what it is. A little less then 3x the price but that’s shipped over from Finland which I’m sure isn’t the usps flat rate.

125 maybe 150 foot tall nothing outrageously tall, the lengths are shooting for 40’s plus a foot of trim.

The head uses a 82cm bar running 404 80 gauge chain and yes it goes dull. I’m not sure what the head costs just by itself these machines are setup as a package. Thank you for the kind words on how I run the machine.

A little bit of fun from the other day pulling the understory out. 60 year old long log

6 hours is what a lot of us work but like you said you don’t make a living doing it. Now that said with doing the maintenance at the end of the day you’re able to check the saw over, clean the bar rails, open the oiler hole, flip bar, grease the clutch bearing daily, blow the saw out, and blow...

Wasted on the stump or wasted later by taking a long butt because of the flare?

I’ve never understood let’s file in the field vs swapping chains during the day and sharpening at the end of the day.

Now to really speed up your cutting you need to work on sharpening. The depth gauge grinder it makes a much smoother cutting chain vs the old way I use to do them. Here’s why This was the first tree of the day as stuff wears in it smooths out.

You’re fine and kind of figured you were but also want people to realize that if you’re always cutting in the dirt or super low you’re not gaining much.

Maybe back barring, running a full wrap you aren’t going to get a whole lot lower other then back barring or digging around the stump.

A big Doug fir can be worth a lot especially with how much footage you have in one tree so it’s extremely important to get it down in one piece or where the planned break is going to be.

Yep on a humboldt face all the waste is left on the stump not in the butt log

That’s because we don’t cut on the low side when it’s steep it’s always done on the high side for safety. Also think about the size difference if you’re maxed out on a 42” bar is 9 foot where stuff like that grows is out on something steep where you’re double cutting as well as putting jacks in...

Has to do with you loose some extra board footage of over run.

How much is lost to conventional faces?

Sawyer Rob low enough?

You can only make them dance so far sometimes you have use mother nature against herself and pick a root to help pull around something ugly.

A Dutchman was put in on what I would call the far side of the stump where he bypassed the face at which point weight and gravity took over. There’s times you can use a Dutchman full faced or swinging to your advantage to do different things. I’ll put in stuff like that to make a tree swing...

Break in from memory should be done wide open in some over bar length buried being pushed hard for X amount of time.

Yes most of the high revving 2 stroke bikes I’ve built run ngk I’d trust them over a champion plug any day.

Might try the NGK number or even the Bosch number most of the stuff I’ve ran is one or the other vs champion.

Yogi05 This might help, a quick google search shows the plug still available as well. This link has the different manufacturers that make that plug with their numbers spark plug cross reference

You’d be amazed at what I hand cut some days it can small in diameter but there’s a few tricks you can pick up or be given that make life easier and faster.

This was the break in on this 12 model 562 with a 32 haven’t had any issues with the saw even with guys running it after being retired from full time falling duty of a few seasons.

What saw is it? Let’s see some of the stumps always interested to see how different parts of the world do it.

Got me an elk once with a cedar on accident otherwise I’d rather not know what’s watching personally.

The can is a husky combo can it packs gas and oil, the gas side is self shut off the oil side has a standard spout. As far as jacks go they’re a few way to go about them putting the seat in first before the face is started or after the back cut is started. Those ones in the picture were getting...

These are jacks where stuff can move well lifting

Molalla1 How many times over the years did you have to put in the bouncing boards?

This patch of fir was never thinned it’s around 80 or so the size doesn’t compare to the other patches that are younger and thinned with the small less dominant stems being removed. This patch was pole thinned 30 years ago the average length of the poles was 125’ long this is what thinning can...

Age it’s like everything else they have a date as well, some have root rot which is site dependent but much over 100 years of age you will see a Doug fir start to slow down.

I make a living commercial thinning on the west coast you can’t do that what you end up with is a bunch of diseased undergrowth that is stunted which is how we end with huge fires that happen.

I own one Echo but it’s been worked over super hard to make it run right just to live on a mill it’s heavier then my 3120 husky is but it does have more low end torque as well.

Those aren’t old growth that’s second two why leaving something that’s dying? Clear cutting is a must you can’t just keep thinning of the natural regeneration and expect a rotation of good viable timber in say 60 to 70 years.

I’d be interested in running one vs the 372’s I use to run falling or even the little 462 I have now.

Be careful playing with jacks and timber or logs make sure it has a good contact area like a falling jack does as well as a swivel style head.

It was a over 100 years old this patch use to have a mill site on it so stuff was wiped clean for the most part. I’m right around the perfect ground for growing Doug fir for height it can grow fast as well as tall without a ton of taper.

This is off our personal ground but ours is mainly being used for log production. The yellow wedge I use as a tipping wedge or signal to let me know how the tree is reacting in that tall timber you can’t always see the tops especially when it’s foggy or smoky out like that day was. One of the...

This one was over 200’ around 38” on the butt This was over 5’ on the butt and over 200’

Stuff that size isn’t that bad as long as the bar length is long enough it’s never fun to have to cut windows in and lay in the back cut.

It’s still green here but I’m pretty close to the coast range, I finished thinning a piece that took a month and the slash mats are just starting to turn a little color.

No I would never have cottonwood on my place it’s a patch I’m cutting for someone else. Rows were all mechanically planted. This is what my place looks like Mainly western red cedar and Doug fir.

Can’t tell if I’m in the PNW or down south right now.

Are you using Tapatalk?

Different species but our Doug fir and Western Hemlock are the same way some guys try the thin forever program. I’ve done some playing with over the years and about 10 years taking something that larger out the understory is ready for clear cut.

What’s wrong with steep ground it makes life interesting and if it wasn’t there you can bet all the big stuff would be gone already.

It won’t have to be cut it’ll all be burnt before then.

Yeah in an unmanaged patch of mainly Red Alder with a little bit of fir and cedar mixed in. The largest one I’ve cut was close to 40” on the butt so far.

We’ll see them 32” plus on the stump and 150’ tall.

You could run a power down vs gravity down right now.

The before and after

A few of them still do have the signs up for no caulks allowed, but those days of the guys getting off and getting a beer after work are pretty much over.

Nicks These are my general everyday forestry boot that I can be on concrete etc and not have a back ache. My Wesco caulk as falling boots or for working out in the brush spiked boots so you don’t slip on slick surfaces but watch out for concrete or steel. If these are greased they stay pretty...

The saw was a 3120, bar is a 42” 3/8 .063 cannon super belly, chain was an archer ripping chain, length of the cut was just shy of 25’ for making low boy decking boards. For milling the smallest saw I’ll use is my 395, the 3120 works ok, the big echo should do a lot better with the long bars...

Some of the Stihl stuff actually does have a valve in it, to my knowledge none of the saws do other then pole saws.

Don’t grease the tips other then new it will trash the sprocket bearing in a hurry unless you actually flush all the said grease/grit out of the tips sprocket bearing.

550 cat 13 holes to choose from and 2 speed rear ends what can go wrong.

So you’re telling me it has more torque then say my 500i or my cs1201 echo or 395 Husky? Reason I ask is I’ve never see more then a top handled sized battery saw for a good reason the tech isn’t there to pull the bar length without a huge weight penalty. As far as chaps go have you ever through...

This is our first shredder we’ve had flails for years but this Vrisimo 500 series is something else and a horsepower hog.

The morning trying to fight through the brush the afternoon make the birds happy

Chain speed isn’t everything, if the cutters are too aggressive for the saw you’ll have a grabby chain and on the other end if it’s dull you may speed but you’ll never cut.

It’s the same concept as a gas saw the strands plug the clutch cover.

I’d say it doesn’t have the power to turn the chain how it’s setup.

If it’s grabby that’s something to do with the chain more then the saw itself. Depending on what I’m cutting, where I’m cutting, and conditions my chains can be completely different from the grind of the tooth to the depth gauge heights either of these two or a combination of the two will make...

Been running one almost daily since the first of the year without a lick of issues running 32’s and 36’s. One thing I’ve noticed with it is this isn’t a short bar saw they love cutters and aggressive grind chains. If you’re interested in a short bar saw look into the 462 it’s happiest with a 28...

What gauge and pitch of chain?

The 60” fat belly cannon being used on a husky 395 for a ship sailing mast.

72” but that and the 60” are mainly used on the mill anymore.

No I’m not, the only Echo I have is a big cs 1201 for running long bar on.

Where you see a difference is in the finish straight off the mill a good ripping chai will leave an almost perfect finish.

Not quite as aggressive as I’d run normally in Doug Fir but you get the idea.

My chains are sharp I’m out in the PNW where the dust off the bark is something else. If I’m cutting old growth style Doug Fir you will see a cloud of dust from the bark well cutting it gets on everything and into everything. It’s not listed but it is made for the 500. A max-flo would be nice...

Been running them on the 500 for the better part of 6 months it does ok but still allows stuff to build up in the pleats.

Thank you guys but I can’t take all the credit I had some good teachers over the years that taught me a lot of tricks to save wood out and do it safely. They’d get a treat being able to cut a second growth Doug fir or really any of the species out here.

It started life as a block face with a humboldt bottom, then I added a siz wheel ramp almost all the way across allowing the butt to slip over to the side well sending the top out the hole.

The shot, the face, and right out the lay.

Would that cs1201 happen to be headed out to Oregon?

I didn’t measure the cuts I should of but lunch was calling after that big girl.

A fun morning and a track skidder to yank her out.

I’ve ran a 32 on the 562 in the past and it’ll do the job depending on the wood. They run extremely well for their size batting above their class for sure, the 36’s just never have hit the mark quite as well as the little 562 has. Mine is a 2013, our other one a 555 is a 2011 both of which...