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I can't answer that based on what I see from here, but since you have no movement, (possibly) no high pressure, maybe little or no charge pressure, you could be hearing some dry parts in the rotating groups.

"Make it work without the solenoid". Good luck with that. I can imagine a few different ways of using switch combinations mounted on the cable mounts or using the lever that don't involve a button you need to constantly push. Something that will close the circuit for you when you move the lever...

I know what he's talking about, but I'm wondering how he determined that. If it's not a clutch related problem or something external related to the pedal linkage and/or the shaft going into the hydrostat, about the only (simple) explanation would be lack of charge pressure. Beyond that, I'd be...

Maybe you're not aware of it, but there is a dry clutch ahead of that hydrostat. A problem there can give you the condition you described. Does the PTO stop when you try to move the tractor? That might tell you something...

If it's in the feed circuit, it's still in the start circuit. Any power coming OUT of the switch (no matter where it goes) has to come INTO the switch first. That's the wrong place for the fuse. And it's NOT just 10 amps to supply the solenoid. It's a great deal more. It only takes a second to...

As I see it, the solenoid valve opens to trigger the sensing line. The loader valve is plumbed closed center and must be tied into the same supply as the factory remote valves. Very interesting package. I don't think I've ever seen one quite like it. I don't see where you can use that valve...

I'm only half way/sort of following this, but in the original post I thought I saw where someone "added a fuse to the ignition switch feed from the starter solenoid". Am I reading this correctly? There is a fuse between battery and ignition switch that's not factory? IF that's the case, my first...

Are you here looking/hoping for a simple quick fix (as in this or that wire fell off) or are you willing to get your hands dirty and get off into it?

The parking brake is mostly inside the tractor. The handle under the seat has a rod going down to a lever. Pulling up on the handle moves the lever which rotates a shaft going into the transmission. There is an adjustment nut on the bottom of the rod, that can be reached from below. It's between...

Is it worth a few hundred dollars? Only you can decide that. Anyone attempted this repair? Probably a few thousand people. Its not an uncommon occurrence at all. there are two seals in each final drive on most of these 4WD front axles (most of which are fairly similar in design) One on the axle...

Connector or no connector, it's still a Kubota tech "whatever it takes" issue. What else is left? You've covered all the simple bases with no real results. It's one of the joys of owning computer controlled equipment.

I would say try bleeding that soft side. That might make difference. As far as keeping the pedals locked, I can't see where that will help anything other than make you feel better. Only the tighter side will be actually doing the braking.

Only that it's probably time to get a Kubota computer tech involved. Whatever that takes. The issue is probably out of reach for most of us common folk.

If you look at the fluid reservoir you see the lines to the pedal cylinders come right out of the very bottom of the tank. It needs to be near totally empty before any air should get into that line. If the fluid level was above the minimum line at the time then it should have been safe to...

It's your choice of course, but if it were my project I would simply add a dedicated power beyond joystick valve for the loader and leave the existing remote stack alone. Getting all the right parts, (tubes tie bolts, hardware, etc) isn't worth the cost and effort in my opinion. Others may...

Not much for details are you? Assuming you're working on a New Holland TD 5050? There is no TD 5059. The earlier TD tractors had a full metal shell around the steering column that didn't come apart from the outside. It was a series of metal panels all bolted together on the inside with 1/4"...

Gotta wonder, just what are you referring to as "pressure control valve" and what O ring? Might it be in this diagram? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/16941/referrer/navigation/pgId/2201679

That's fine for today, but you know you have an unreliable component. Down the road, sooner or later it will do that again (or worse) and you may not catch it in time to save the damage it can/will cause. You don't know yet what the "warranty" will cover in this case. They usually try to duck...

Are you sure of your overall plumbing? A leak in that area with a new valve is unusual, and not often caused by loose bolts. The valve has power beyond and a third line direct to sump, right?

Actually, the third function could be anywhere in the system. That depends on the fastest, easiest place the installer found to put it. My logic for starting there is simply because 1) I don't like electric valves, and 2) it seems all too often strange hydraulic problems occur and get reported...

You're over thinking the flow rate. If your tractor burns more fuel than any of the "standard, readily available" electric units will pump, you can't afford to run it.

The first sentence holds the key. The grapple wouldn't stay open. That's by no means a pump related problem. Next clue is the "button". That says there is a solenoid valve somewhere in the mix. My bet is the bulk of the problem is right there.

I see many more of the blue cousins. I'm GUESSING the 75A (made in India) is pretty close to the Workmaster 75. Having worked on a few of them I think they're not a bad tractor. Simple in most respects, as compared to anything newer than 2015. The 75C is Italian made, probably more like the TN...

The on/off lever on that tractor really has nothing to do with the PTO itself. The lever merely moves a valve spool, so if you feel something in the lever, I believe it's more likely in the hydraulics than in the PTO. Maybe even something sticky in the spool, or maybe in the cover mechanism...

As Jim has stated, the "grinding" could be coming from the plates in the clutch pack. That would strange (at best) in my opinion, because those plates are not known for making noise at any stage of their service life. I've been though PTO clutches where the facing material is completely gone...

Assuming you mean the port on the hydraulic pump pressure outlet flange? As in item #7 in this diagram...

That's an interesting situation. The PTO grinds on engagement. Can you provide a little more detail on just what's happening here? The grinding goes away once the PTO is up and spinning? No problems pulling a load and it stops as always when shut off?

You solved multiple problems without realizing it. Everyone likes a happy ending.

Why is that strange? You removed/replaced the line from the pump to the valve. In the process you had to horse on some fittings to do that. Apparently the support bracket(s) for the valve and/or steering column shifted a bit and you didn't notice. The splined shaft in the controller was...

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/agricultural/naba01agr030t5000/tractor/front-axle-steering/power-steering-hydraulic-control-pipes-brackets/cn/0160D4BD-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/BF0DAD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

You bought 8" of hose and four ends for $37? That was either small hose or a pretty good price. Most hose places near me charge at least 5$/ft for 3/8" or 1/2" hose. Ends run from $5 to $20 each depending on size, shape, and fitting style. Anything larger than 1/2" about twice that or more. I...

My interpretation is it's a hydraulically actuated A/C hose crimper. I doubt it's expected to crimp hydraulic hose fittings. Just my take on it. Personally, I'm not above using "ready made" hoses when the budget and/or application supports it. If the hose lengths can be in one foot increments...

Which ones did you see that you would consider affordable?

I think you can get a "ready made" 3' long 1/2" hose with male pipe ends at any farm supply (like Tractor Supply) for about $20.

I have an old Weatherhead machine I've had for years. It still does everything I need it to. They don't come up for sale every day and aren't cheap. The one listed below looks like about the least expensive one I've seen yet, and comes with a good assortment of dies. I think there would be a...

Good plan. That should hold you for a while.

With only six lines you will be doing this again. Better order some extras to have on hand.

Just a side note here. Does the valve have six lines or seven? If it has six, replacing O rings will only be a short lived fix. They will start leaking again at some point.

Yes, that's true. Most hydrostatic units can be steered (with great effort of course) for a short distance with dead engine steering. But that's provided the system was working properly before the pump stops turning. Your situation isn't in that category. I would expect when you suddenly lost...

You don't need to bleed anything. If the pump is moving oil and there is sufficient oil in the tank it will bleed itself. If you replaced the line, filled the tank, and started it up it probably used up the oil pretty quickly. Did you check and fill it back up after trying it?

Probably neither one. If the relief valve was a problem the remote valve operation would also be affected. If the cylinder seals were that big a problem, the lift arms, if/when they do finally raise would drop instantly when the tractor was shut off with arms raised. Does that happen?

Try 3709668M91 gear set

I'm wondering if anyone has experimented (or even considered experimenting) with leaving the brake piston retractors out of the brake pistons on any of these tractors? Having been into a few tractors for brake problems and knowing there have been questions about the effectiveness of them I've...

I have used the compression tube unions a number of times. I also keep old bent or damaged lines to use for similar repairs for that very reason. All too often steel lines can be a royal pain to get out and put replacements back in on many Kubota models. A short section of like sized tubing and...

I have repaired many rusted out steel hydraulic lines by cleaning up the surface and brazing over the affected areas. It's worked for me many times and solved problems for years. If yours is a 12mm line (a common size with Kubota) I've also done sectional replacement type repairs with new tubing...

That series IH tractors had no one way clutch. Only a hydraulic clutch pack, which in this case I believe is suspect. Losing power to drive a load could be a low/insufficient pressure problem, but the creeping when turned off symptom is more likely a result of some mangled clutch drive discs...

I'm wondering if anyone has had the PTO clutch pack out of a 4.105? Any "do this" or "don't do that" sort of things one needs to be aware of?

This is another one of those places where you need to make choices. Quite often what I do is use the starter. Provided of course the solenoid is accessible. Reach in and remove the wire from solenoid spade terminal. In its place slip on a piece of wire with a female spade terminal. A wire long...

I see. Problem existed before the pump was changed and the new pump didn't solve it. Not being at all familiar with that tractor I have no suggestions other than find a place to tee in a gauge somewhere and see what pressure the system is producing when loaded. That reading should tell you...

I would suspect something gave up on one of the release levers on the pressure plate. You'll find out when you split it.

Why would you suspect a relief valve unless you can hear it squealing? What have you tested (pressure wise) that would indicate a relief valve problem? Why was the pump replaced?

It doesn't seem all that complicated to me. You have one valve and one pair of couplers. You install a package with three solenoids and three more pairs of couplers. The first pair of couplers are in use when you activate the valve. If you trigger one of the solenoids and activate that same...

I've done that a couple times. It can cause some foul language, but still less work than dropping the oil pan. The only Berrymans I know of are Bill (runs a tree service) and George who runs I64 Tractor. Of course everyone knows George. He's been a fixture around here for years. THE place to...

The whole timing cover needs to come off. The shaft/gear will not fit through the holes exposed by removing either pump. It's a project. Mostly a lot of nuts and bolts. The tricky part comes in when you realize the cover has two dowel pins and a rubber gasket strip sealing the bottom of the...

Photo #3 shows some pretty lengthy slots in the injection pump drive gear. Assuming the scribed lines next to the yellow paint spot were lined up before it all came apart just as they are now, right?

Someone from a dealership? If anyone fits that bill they've been might secretive about it. My own dealership experience ended before his tractor was built. I've seen a few Powerstars around, but had no idea they had a mechanical inching valve on any of the power shuttle transmissions. I thought...

I'm not sure what you're hoping for here. Probably not a lot of experience out here with your particular problem. In the absence of a transmission service manual (which I assume you don't have) I would suggest working through various pages of the parts diagrams for some hints on what's in there...

"Is that likely the throw out bearing?" In my opinion it depends on the terminology. To most of us the clutch is "engaged" when the pedal is all the way up, the clutch disc(s) and pressure plate assembly are all rotating together, with the throw out bearing at rest not touching any part of...

What safety switch? Most charging systems don't have a safety switch. Is it a Motorola alternator with an external regulator? (little square tin box with a four wire harness plug) Is there a battery temp sensor under the battery tray?

I guess there are a few possibilities. Lots of new parts, time lapsed during assembly to the point of start up. Dry cylinders and rings due to that time lapse. friction of new parts (pistons, rings, cylinder walls) starter and battery not quite 100% so cranking speed is down a little. New engine...

Well if it wouldn't roll with the engine off then that pretty much rules out the clutch or its installation. This is with both speed and range transmissions in neutral, right? Assuming the rear half was under cover while while engine work was in progress? This condition was not there before the...

You didn't mention the tractor model. All I saw was the Massey 255 listed. They are manually controlled. The 6640 is solenoid operated and as such will engage with little or no control on your part. There may be a way to soften that engagement but it would take some creative engineering to do...

"It won't move while in neutral" I assume that means it won't roll, as in you can't push it? You can cycle through the gears without the clutch. With the engine running? Maybe you can explain your circumstances a little better. Some of us out here are accustomed to certain terminology and can...

You broke the PTO shaft or the input shaft in the first gearbox? (as in number 18 below)...

I would be more interested in pressure to PTO/dual power circuit than main hydraulics. Different pump section and different circuit entirely. Should be at least 150 PSI. 160 - 180 is expected.

Problems with the park pawl on gear drive tractors require a tractor split. It could be on the power reverser you can get to it from the top. I've never done it so I can't say. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75872/referrer/navigation/pgId/2495481

Could be as simple as a bolt fell out of the handle mechanism. Maybe a broken part in there. That's been known to happen. Have you peeled the rubber boot back and peeked inside there?

Then why not try this; Leave the fuel shutoff fuse out. Leave the ECU fuse in (a good one). Disconnect the power wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid and instead power it with a jumper wire with battery voltage. See what happens.

Check your PM inbox.

It will come off. You just haven't smacked it hard enough. Leave the bolts in on one side end smack the other side. One end cap or the other will come off and allow you slide the cylinder out.

Not all tractor makers put that information in the operator manuals. That's why checking with the dealer is first step. It may be in a service manual but you no doubt don't have that.

I (like many others I'm guessing) have been through a number of that style gear cases on many tractor brands and models. They are pretty much all the same yet they're all slightly different. A quick read through on the info posted leaves me lost. I would not remove the entire case assembly, but...

Well I, for one, think you are wrong. The dealer needs to be given the first shot at solving the problem. It's a newly purchased machine, and regardless of what warranty the sales department provides, they need to be given the opportunity to stand behind their sale. After that it's a different...

Just curious, but are there any other symptoms/issues or just one fuse that blows? And what else does that fuse apply to?

A few different possibilities come to mind on the "4WD shift in and out" thing, but that's probably a normal occurrence. The mechanical shift units have a few peculiarities no matter what brand. The clutch pedal problem may well be nothing more than a calibration issue. Power shuttle tractors...

Typically, there is only so much you can do from the outside on a dry clutch tractor. I'm not familiar enough with a Farmtrac 665 to know if it has any inspection covers that can be removed to allow any access to look or feel around inside the clutch housing for any problems. If you made the...

I've done that sort of repair on dozens of tractors and would love to find someone who would pay me $4000 to do another one. Unless your tractor's configured in some unorthodox manner, or the leak is not just a seal but has major parts involved a split/leak repair should run less than half that...

Not that I know anything about an LX280 but just how did you check the PTO clutch and determine it "checked out"? Just assuming here, this a hydraulic PTO clutch pack. USUALLY that would have a test port somewhere so you can test the pressure to the clutch when it's applied.

I don't think there is a gasket there. Just a sealant. Tightening the bolts back up will of course greatly reduce the leak, but a certain amount of seepage may still be present. hopefully not enough to be a problem. I don't exactly "torque" those bolts, I just get them as tight as I can then...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/305219663810?itmmeta=01HYRCMRVD65F2QPZK0GJ1RN5Z&hash=item47108277c2:g:YnwAAOSwNpNlNCOi&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HKVmvWyaSLEYGbi1PTE3DNjnHXh5W0JyjAcS2fUog%2FAOnNHnwnFORlat%2FvZAsSIAOrh9FtmrPj%2BVcb7ClpdiaSsCMAQO64fDTZy3QA%2F0rplQDDZWjK3C7IQKAZTUafYw4TWgCbR7BEpwE1B92GxiuUrKrT0...

I can't answer your questions. I'm only suggesting a simple pressure test. A single pressure gauge and a fitting or two would be a lot cheaper than new cylinders, a new pump, or a new valve. Your choice.

As always, it's hard to tell from here, but from your description I would say the valve is suspect. What I would do is this. Remove one of the steering lines leading to the cylinders. Doesn't matter which one, right or left side. Adapt a pressure gauge onto the line so flow will deadhead into...

Maybe a slightly simpler first step would be to post some photos of how/where this "tapped into the hydraulics" stuff took place.

In fact almost EVERYONE encounters this. Alternators just don't "slip on" where a generator came from. The vast majority of aftermarket conversion kits require some sort of modification nearly very time, so you shouldn't feel rained on. I've done plenty and rarely had one go without issue in...

Seems to me if the remote valve(s) had a problem the supply and return for the loader valve should have the same "pressure to both sides" issue you think you have with the baler. Have you compared the male coupler noses on baler to the ones for the loader valve that work?

And WHERE on the tractor is your gauge plumbed in? Explain a little about what you have for a loader valve, and does it have three lines connected to the square diverter block on the right side of the tractor?

Do the lines have quick connects somewhere? If so have they been messed with lately? I can imagine a problem there could have a bearing on this. You flushed the system (in both directions?) and had no problems with flow though anything in either direction, right?

I can't help leaning towards inaccurate readings. Manifold issue, gauges, hoses, couplers, schrader valves, etc. Most of the time when I find weird stuff like that it's because I'm not properly connected into the system on both sides even though I THINK I am.

Reading through your posts my first thought was you were charging the system with both valves on your gauge set open. This post confirms that you're not. My guess is you simply have a defective new component. Either the compressor is doing nothing or the expansion valve is open and not closing...

Assuming of course you have changed the filter? Do the hydraulic functions seem to operating as usual or are you noticing anything strange on that front? How about steering? Is that reservoir full and the steering working okay? If you run the tractor until you hear the noise, shut it off and...

I admit I was curious about the roll pin. Having been into that of type joint a few times on other makes of tractors, they all seem to simply unscrew (once you get them to break loose that is) and none I've seen ever had any such "tricks" involved.

So what was the solution?

The disc is probably just a protective shield. Should it be replaced? I wouldn't unless it's damaged, and my guess is that it probably isn't. I think if you remove the drive shaft, and the first snap ring the disc should be removable without disturbing anything else or draining the fluid yet.

Issues with the temp gauges on those tractors are fairly common. I don't make too many attempts to correct them, as both the senders and the cluster units can be replaced with minimal improvement and little confidence in the accuracy. I suggest forget it and add a manual gauge. There is a 3/8"...

The inset in the upper left corner of the drawing shows the relative position of the part in relation to the rest of the tractor. It's under the transmission.

It's on the page I linked you to. You just don't believe me.

Near as I can tell, this is the seal you need. Maybe some O rings as well. https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/category/engines-cooling-exhaust/fpt-engine-parts/seal/p/5150370

That's not it. That's the input shaft from the clutch to the transmission. Not the 4WD at all.

I'm rather confused by your descriptions. The leak is at the REAR of the tractor where the three point lift arms are? The drive shaft as I know it is nowhere near that. There are however, load shaft seals back where the lower lift links attach to the tractor. These are indeed notorious for...

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/agricultural/naba01agr034tl/tractor/front-axle-steering/idler-gears-4wd-pto-shaft/cn/C6AA6BC6-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/870FAD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 This is what I'm thinking you need to look at. ASSUMING you're dealing with a...

Check your PM inbox.

Bear in mind that the valve in your photos is not configured for power beyond. That isn't a concern if the oil supply and return don't involve the three point, steering, or any other hydraulic functions. Is that the case? And yes, the relief valve setting on any new valve you install will...

Funny you should ask about that one. I just ordered one of those a couple weeks ago as a replacement for an old obsolete unit similar you yours. It's working out great.

It's doubtful you will find anything parts wise other than O rings. I would plan on a new valve. They are plentiful, available everywhere, and not all that expensive. I wouldn't recommend one of the "super cheap fifty nine dollar" models, but easily found for $150 or so. I have good luck with...

Take the drive shaft shield off and look for the seal on the output shaft. That's probably your leak and replacing it is not too big of a job. You can probably do it without removing the drop box, just drain all the fluid first.

This question has come up more times than you can count. There is no "one size fits all" answer for it, as every machine is slightly different, and so is the actual symptom. It can be caused by many different things, but quite often it's just that the start signal getting to the starter solenoid...

Look at the steering oil reservoir. The return line from the steering valve attaches to the filter housing. I would expect a four bolt cap comes off and the filter will come out.

Well, I'm not sure an internal problem with cylinder piston seals would cause that without some other symptoms going along with it. If the cylinder action is suddenly slower than usual it's more likely the flow in and out has reduced for whatever reason. The new valve you installed is the first...

So the problem you have is the bucket curl cylinders work as you feel they should (extend, retract, hold weight) without issue, they just seem to be operating too slowly? The grapple seems to operate as fast as you would expect? This "slow action" appeared after you installed a diverter valve...

I have the old one bookmarked as well. Yes, it still works, but who knows for how long.

BEST case would be a simple electrical problem. That's where I would start anyway. The fact that you see the "dash light up" when the PTO starts working tells me that something isn't getting power as it should until the mystery part involved "warms up". Not knowing the circuitry of that...

It should be 5/16 fuel hose.

Yes

You need to remove, clean, and re install all four battery cable connections. Problem could be any one (or more) of them.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/70674/referrer/navigation/pgId/393226569 I know it's there, but I can't tell you how easy it is to get to.

While I would agree with your assumptions of what the failure might be, I would NOT remove the entire cylinder unless I absolutely had to. It's too hard to deal with as a separate unit. I repair them on a fairly regular basis and if at all possible (loader bucket cylinders certainly qualify) I...

Waste of money. I just use a piece of scrap 3/16 rod, like from an old battery hold down J bolt, cut off two pieces about an inch long and stuff that into the hose.

It's quite simply really. The vent line connects the top of the filter base to the injector return line with a free flow to the top of the fuel tank. The supply pump is pulling fuel from the bottom of the tank through the filter and pushing it to the injector pump. You already know you have (or...

Pinch off the vent line on the top of the filter base. See what that does for keeping the filter bowl full. Better yet, just snip the hose and put a plug of some sort in both open ends. If you notice an improvement I can explain why.

Who did the work?

I think you'll find the shut off solenoid on the right front corner of the engine timing cover. The same style many Kubota engines use. When it operates (both on and off) it's a very noticeable click. Not something you would overlook.

I guess you could measure the resistance between the Spade on the sender and ground with engine cold. Run it a while and do that again. Check gain with engine up to operating temperature and record that. I would expect the reading should should get lower and lower as the engine warms up. What...

The simplest way I know of to test an electric gauge is to first find the temp sensor. Usually located on top of the head or near (or in) the thermostat housing. Should be a sender with only one wire attached. Find the wire, remove it from the sender and rig up a way to ground it. Add a jumper...

If it's hydrostatic it would have pedals for forward/reverse and be pretty obvious. It must be a shuttle, either power or synchro.

"Hydro trans thing"? Just what transmission option does the tractor have?

Seems to me the clutch does NOT work good. Classic symptom of a poorly operating PTO portion of the clutch. Could be a simple adjustment issue, could be deeper than that. When using the PTO on an implement can you stop it by depressing the clutch pedal all the way down? That would tell you...

You can do whatever you want to if it's your tractor, but be aware the fluid flow through the system, whether you use the multipower or not, lubricates a lot of moving parts in that area. Simply blocking that flow off is likely to cause even more problems down the road.

It's internally regulated. Parts list is no help in this case. Already ben there multiple times before posting questions.

If I could trace the wires I wouldn't be looking for a diagram. If it were a "standard three wire" set up it wouldn't be creating a draw through a switched circuit with switch off unless there's something else in the mix.

Consider something else.

I'm hoping someone out there may have a book or CD of the wiring diagrams. Primarily interested in the three wires on the alternator. It has three posts. One large one is battery positive output, one small one I believe might be the tach output signal. The third post is slightly smaller than the...

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/81218/referrer/navigation/pgId/2377131 Just going by what I see here, and experience with removing knobs on some of the bigger tractors. They all came apart the same way.

Try popping off the plastic cap. I think the here's a screw or bolt under it holding the knob onto the lever.

I've never worked on the red versions, but have seen a few of the blue ones some years back. I don't recall any "known common" problems with any of them. No offense, but even someone "up to speed" on the system would have a hard time providing any answers for you with so little information...

That looks like as good a choice as any.

That is simply a diverter valve, not a control valve. It has only one supply and one return so flow will only be in one direction. You will need to run that flow through a separate valve to change directions.

You unplugged the quick connects, started the tractor with nothing connected? You didn't turn the spool in the diverter valve before starting the engine? If so, the three point won't work but the system relief valve will get a workout.

You saw smoke and vapor out of the breather while cranking? If that's the case, added to the "no start", it's a bad sign. I'd pull the hose off the intake manifold and look closely for signs of dirt ingestion. A compression test would confirm your suspicions, but it probably isn't necessary...

A 4WD tractor w/loader for that price is going to have problems somewhere, and it looks like you found one already. I'm ASSUMING here that you bought this long distance and never heard it run? If it's a gear drive tractor you might have better luck tow starting it considering the circumstances...

If you have a Workmaster 60, it's a whole different system than the Workmaster 55. I can understand your frustration with it. All of the newer (2015 and up) Workmasters are a POS from bumper to drawbar.

I'm a firm believer in "simpler is better". That tractor is at least ten times less complicated than anything sold today. 320 hours (if that's accurate) is as close to new as you can get with a used tractor. Even if you could find something similar new for that price, you're still better off...

I won't say I blame you. I was never overly impressed with Mahindra over all, and not just that model. I was with a dealership that had Mahindra as one of their tractor lines when the 35 series was first sold new. There were a few problems with the Nimco valves that were commonly used on...

You mentioned "both filters". Is one of those the water separator under the right side ladder? I've found numerous problems with those and have eliminated many of them because of air leaks into the system. That said, another common problem is the inlet fitting on that filter. The banjo fitting...

I'm not suggesting the couplers aren't properly connected, I'm saying one of them could be bad internally, and only allowing flow in one direction. I've seen that before, and have replaced a few because of it.

Does your setup have quick couplers between the loader valve and the lines leading to and from the loader cylinders? Your symptoms could well be caused by a coupler that's not fully open to flow in both directions. Not a given, but possible.

Well I must admit you've had more than your fair share of failures with that hub. I've been through a number of them and have never had repeat failures to that degree. A few problems where I didn't get the nut tight enough, but none resulted in any gear failures. In the case of the photos just...

A "little wiggle in the hub" is no good. You can't run it that way or you risk more damage. Are those photos from the first failure or the current situation?

You asked for opinions. You have three already suggesting you stay away from it, (four now actually) but it sounds like you really don't want them. Remember, there is no free lunch, but if you're all that intrigued by it, then by all means, go for it. You might make a big score.

When I do it I split the tractor between the transmission and rear housing. I don't think it comes out the top.

I'm not seeing where the nut not being tight enough can cause the gear failure. I've been into a number of units where worn or failing bearings were loose enough to take out the seal, with the hub moving from side to side, and the gears weren't damaged. I've seen some damaged gear sets, yes, but...

Whatever his problem was, I doubt it was timing. If he didn't lose any shims the timing wouldn't change whether he turned the motor while the pump was out or not.

Funny, but that was my first thought as well when I read the first post.

I'm not sure where you're getting a TN40. Maybe you're thinking of a TC40? That would make more sense.

In my opinion (for what that's worth) you didn't get the nut near tight enough. Okay, that said, here's what I do. When I did the first one (many years ago) I made a socket to fit the nut. I took the nut off with a hammer and punch, basically beating the snot out of it and rendering it pretty...

That would be the PTO plate adjustment. I would start by measuring the gap (with a feeler gauge) between the end of the bolt and the plate it contacts when the pedal is depressed. Your manuals, one of them at least, should have that dimension. Again, probably between .060 and .090 or some metric...

Looking at the parts list I don't see which "bolts" you're referring to. What I see is three lever assemblies with pins, washers, etc, and each has two adjustment nuts. Three bolts and nuts for the PTO adjustment, and six bolts holding the assembly to the flywheel. The assembly of the three...

For openers, I'm seeing a number of different front axle hubs and gears listed in parts, depending on tractor age/version/serial number and all that. Which one fits your tractor? A quick glance at parts lists didn't bring me to any of the numbers you listed other than the main seal, but I was...

No matter what happens with the drive shaft, when one tire turns the other should turn in the opposite direction. Since that's not happening the driveshaft is not part of the problem. You need to dig deeper.

Which one won't release? You took measurements before disassembling. What did you measure? The PTO adjustment bolts appear to be similar to most other dual clutches, and are adjusted evenly with a feeler gauge. Typically to somewhere between .060 and ,090 inch. The three levers usually aren't...

I've replaced more clutches than I care to count, and for most of them I had no specs at all. I guess I've never found it necessary. What are your concerns regarding said "specs"? What all did you replace, and why do you feel you need specs? If they're not found in the manuals, how would...

I'm not sure what good that would do. I would just empty the water out of the tank. Empty out the filter and all supply lines and blow them dry.. Drain and blow out as much as possible of what's in the pump head and related passages. Loosen the injector lines at the injectors. Start with good...

28 years old? So is the tractor, but you plan on using that don't you?

There's the right answer. Don't worry about adding a filter. More trouble than it's worth, and will be of little or no real help.

You don't need the dual pump package to handle a rake or a tedder. There are many choices out there for replacement valve kits that will fit those tractors. You can also find many single or multi spool monoblock valves with float position that you can mount on a fender and plumb yourself. More...

I read somewhere that the 135 is one of the most sought after tractors around. There are lots of pluses for the old girl. The drive train has twice the beef of most new tractors even fifty hp or more. OEM, aftermarket, and used parts are always available. With many of the new tractors sold today...

The 1210 alternator is externally regulated. Do yourself a favor, do a little trouble shooting. It could be the regulator as well as anything. If it does turn out to need an alternator, don't start looking for a way to mount a one wire. There are plenty of replacements available in the $100 range.

If your 135 doe the job for you, keep it and save your money. ANYTHING you buy new will be more trouble down the the road than that 135 will ever be. At least when something goes wrong with it you can find someone who knows how to fix it. With the new stuff it just doesn't work that way..

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/79074/referrer/navigation/pgId/11513357 Item #8

You don't need to fool with the axle. The seal you're after is under the drum. You need to get the drum off to access the seal. That part can be a challenge.

As I understand it the Fermec line was formed partially on Massey backhoe and skid steer lines. That would lead me to believe the three point could well be mostly based on what Massey used in so many of their tractors for years. If you can confirm that with some photos of the lift portion and...

Your choice here. You can try to anchor the wires better so it's harder for stuff to snag it, make some sort of protective cover or guard, or simply stay out of the "thick stuff". Unfortunately most of these tractors really aren't built for what many people put them through. Wires, hoses, steel...

Look for the wire to the PTO solenoid valve to have pulled loose while out in your "thick stuff". Valve is under the right side floor plate area. Square looking block with a solenoid coil on one side.

I don't think there is a suction screen on that tractor. Just a single filter ahead of each pump. The loader is operated from the tractor's remote valves with no dedicated loader valve I assume? Does the jerky motion apply to the three point as well? That operates strictly from the internal...

I'd say chances are it failed more from age than from hours of use. Some seals can survive for many years but none are guaranteed to do so. Having never seen a weep hole on one of those pumps I rather doubt there is one. I'd pay close attention to the oil level and consistency.

I didn't say charge it. I said replace it.

If that's the case, the cables don't make much difference. I think you need to revisit the battery. Do you have another one you can stick in and try it?

Which "hot post"? the battery or the starter? If you jump at the starter then either cable is suspect.

Well as I see it on the diagram I'm looking at the start relay is grounded through all the safety circuits. The relay has a four pin connector with a black and white, a black and red, a white and black, and a yellow and black. The white and black is the ground wire. I would try skinning back...

That indicates a possible problem with your existing ground cable. By jumping the negative cable to the frame you bypass the ground cable and it starts.

The wiring diagram I saw doesn't show a dedicated safety controller. It's mainly a series of switches, relays, and a seat safety switch timer. (whatever that is)

I'm sure it was answered, but it obviously wasn't reported here. I, for one, can't make out any leaks in his photos, maybe you can. If you have "the exact same problem" maybe you can explain what it is? If it's a fuel leak "on" the pump itself, your best bet is to plan on removing the pump and...

Check your PM inbox

How dedicated are you to factory OEM wiring/components with all safeties in effect? If that's a priority for you I will respectfully butt out. I tend to work around certain items I disagree with in order to simplify things but still get the job done. I find that many times people just want the...

In cases like this details matter. I wonder just how are you jumping this thing that works for you? Simply clamping jumper cables onto the existing battery posts with original cable ends still installed? In effect the power from the jumper source is still traveling through the tractor's battery...

On the left rear corner of the three point lift housing. Should be a fitting there with a plastic plug screwed into it.

Post some photos of what you have. If anyone can make any sense of your description they're far smarter than I am. Could be your best bet might be to just invest in a new loader valve and be done with it.

I can't help wondering why you have that question? I can't imagine why it would be aluminum.

Did your problem come on every twenty minutes like clockwork? Go away after stopping the engine, restarting, then return again after twenty minutes? Most fuel line and/or supply problems don't quite follow that pattern.

It's not just smaller tractors, the larger ones are in the same boat. It's not the size that matters, it's the overall concept. Too many signals, too many switches/sensors, far too much wiring, an over rated, over priced computer, and no answers for anything. It happens many times every day, no...

You see, this sort of thing is what drives me crazy about the state of tractor engineering today. Unsuspecting individuals go looking for a tractor. The common prevailing thought is "new is always better". Buy something new and you're trouble free for a long time. Maybe so at one time, but not...

I'd be looking for a tractor that doesn't need all that crap.

Only 42 hrs since new, or 42 hrs since you added the loader? If it's new you should be crying warranty. Let the dealer sort it out, or you will be on the hook for it forever.

I would simply take the other one out, use it as a sample, and look for a bolt and nut the same size. It's probably m10 or m12, and most likely 1.25 thread pitch.

Get a bigger pump. Why are you limited to 20 GPM?

An awfully complicated arrangement for little gain in my opinion. While combining the pressure sides might be possible, splitting the return would be even more complicated. If it were my project I would more likely just go with the a larger PTO pump and keep it simple.

The bolt and jam nut are for centering the brake band. You don't want to simply seal up the hole. Oil leaking there indicates a seal leaking between the axle shaft and differential housing. Did you not notice the other holes with cotter pins dangling? You have dry brakes operating in those...

They are indeed low pressure. Almost nothing in fact. One goes to the shaft seal area case drain on the front of the hydraulic pump. the other goes along the top of the engine to a fitting on right front corner of the transmission shift cover. Rarely is there ever enough pressure to cause a leak...

It won't be the steering box. If everything up front were functioning you could steer it both ways from the front without touching the steering wheel. With a new pump and the linkage working properly, about the only thing left is piston seals in the steering cylinder.

While that is probably a good way to proceed, I would caution you to study the system before disconnecting ANYTHING. You have a pressure out, pressure in, and sump return line there. The two pressure lines MUST be somehow connected in a loop when the loader valve is out of the system or you...

https://www.magisterhyd.com/hydraulics-shop/product-category/hydraulic-cylinders/loader-hydraulic-cylinders/ I've had good luck ordering replacement cylinders from these people. Find a size that best matches what you have and order a pair. You may need to adapt the plumbing, but it's usually...