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I believe Kubota was offering good prices for ROPS on their older tractors, check with them. If you don't use your seat belt in conjunction with the ROPS operation can be more dangerous than operating with no ROPS at all.

Before replacing the water pump I'd check my belt tension. If it's good and slipping anyhow replace the belt. They can become glazed, especially from slipping. You could even invest in some belt dressing compound. If the problem continues it may indeed be time to investigate water pump...

I think you answered your own question when you said the hole with the boulder is thirty six inches deep. The post cannot go past your anticipated frost level even though the boulder may.

Check your lever and pivot for play or wobble. It's probably not like my L2501 but mine kept wanting to pop out of PTO when new. I don't remember what I did now but I may have just added a bit of oil to smooth things out at the pivot on the engagement lever.

You could try these guys in Roanoke, VA - they do mail order: Valley Power

I don't know what's normal bu that sounds high for so little time working. Do you have a hydraulic oil cooler? Check that the passages have not become blocked with dust or whatever.

I don't know Canada's pollution rules but in the US if you exceed 25 horsepower you add a computer and a diesel particulate filter. A front mount snow thrower would probably best fill your requirements but the smaller ones generally require a tractor with a mid PTO. I have no idea how hard...

You may be able to cross by dimensions. You need the hole diameter and thread pitch as well as the seal diameter. If you can get those off your old filter you may find it's common.

The previous answer sounds logical to me. If I were you I'd wonder why the front drive continues to self destruct. I thought my Kubota was 4WD and this is the first I've heard of MWD. It appears that's what most compact tractors have. Okay. I found it's an assist not a full time thing...

Does the tractor include a loader? Backhoe? Implements? cab? Why does have less than 150 hours in thirteen years of use? Can he prove ownership? Depending on what's included and if he really does own the tractor it could be a good price. If it's just the bare tractor bear in mind what it...

I would start with the warranty query. If there's no warranty remaining my next stop would be to a starter and alternator repair shop. It could be a really simple fix.

I'll agree with the screwdriver pressure assessment. You'll have to push both sides in at the same time so it will probably take s second person. Those things arre NOT easy to pull back by design.

Incandescent bulbs can do that as they fail due to vibration. A filament can break and reestablish connection before the final break renders it useless. I rarely use my light fixtures in fans - for other reasons. If you've not done so, try LED bulbs in your fan fixture. It is possible you...

You do seem to have a charging problem. It should be hanging at about 12.6 volts and when charging it may approach a thirteen volt or higher surface charge. Try charging the battery on a house powered trickle charger. It does sound as though something is wrong with your regulator or...

Have your battery load tested. You may have a shorted cell and the alternator is trying to compensate. Other than that there may be an excess drain on the battery. If it tends to go flat while sitting either can be the case.

I like my Echo fourteen inch pruning saw for a lot of cutting but for light work I prefer my Ryobi eighteen volt reciprocating saw. It's great for small limbs and branches.

The Providence oil says it meets John Deere J-20C specifications (whatever that means). Most tractors transmission and hydraulics share the same reservoir. My HST (hydrostatic transmission) does this as well, though it does have two separate filters - one is for the HST. Your pictures seem to...

I know nothing about your tractor. I would expect the start winding to have lower resistance to permit more current flow. The run or hold winding should have a higher resistance which would limit current flow. Unless you have some kind of power amplification circuit the applied voltage to...

What is the output voltage when it's charging? It sounds like a defective voltage regulator perhaps? Some alternators have an internal voltage regulator while with others it's external.

If you can go the helicoil route you can even use the original plug or bolt.

I'd begin by using an ohmmeter. The solenoid may be good itself but have the coil shorted to ground internally. One end of the coil may be at ground but if the other end gets grounded, too, you will have a dead short to ground. I have a slow internet connection and can't load your pictures...

I've not dealt with a New Holland tractor so I can't do specifics. Your PTO switch would probably be located on something that moves, usually the engagement lever or any associated linkage. The other switches would be similarly located. Magnetic or proximity switches are possible but unlikely...

If you have an HST transmission the fluid is a greater concern than with a manual transmission since the transmission and hydraulic system share the same reservoir. If you transmission is manual I suspect any decent quality transmission / hydraulic fluid will work. Viscosities may come into...

I don't know how a tractor cabin air filter compares to the automotive type but the local Dodge dealer will replace mine for "only" $60. I can get the same thing at Auto Zone for about $15 and showed my daughter how to change it. This is a paper element filter. You could try getting the...

Try the penetrating oil and tap it a bit with a hammer to loosen it up. Clean things well and look for a circlip or an e clip you may have overlooked.

My Kubota mechanic suggested depressing the clutch and engaging PTO at idle, then bring it up to speed. He strongly recommended depressing the clutch when disengaging the PTO as well as just popping it out of PTO can potentially cause undue wear to PTO gear faces.

Your engine is rated at 46 gross horsepower, that is true enough. Your PTO is rated at 37 - 38, depending on transmission. You may be able to handle an eight foot mower or you may not depending on grass height, cut height, and how fast you want to go. Of course weight of the mower itself must...

I had a Mitsubishi a little older than your Ford. I would change oil and filter and grease it every spring. 300 hours may be good on hydraulic oil and filter though I lacked a filter, only had a screen. My Kubota front loader on my Kubota is supposed to see grease every ten hours but my...

You could try a local hydraulic shop. They may be able to rebuild the cylinder for what Kubota would charge for the seals.

As mentioned above radiators can become clogged with dust, mud, or whatever. You can blow the stuff out or hose it with water. Go from the back to the front to revers the path from which it came. Make sure your fan belt is properly tensioned.

I'm sure people are willing to help. First they need a description of the problem.

I don't know Bobcats at all but it sounds like you have a handle on your problem. Short of any other input I suggest checking voltages on your fuel stop solenoid. If you're getting the proper voltages at the correct times it is possible the part has failed. You can also try an ohmmeter on the...

While shopping note the horsepower capability of the mower itself. Many of the lighter duty mowers have a forty horsepower limitation.

If the Kroil or Mystery Oil ended up in the crankcase I suspect it leaked past the piston rings. Put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft. You should be able to rotate the crankshaft. If you cannot rotate the crankshaft you may have to tear the engine down. The...

I bought a computer with Windows 10 installed. I immediately "upgraded" it to Windows 7 Professional (which in reality Microsoft does still support with periodic upgrades). If it ever fails to work due to further Microsoft "improvements" I will probably perform the next logical upgrade - to...

Husqvarna isn't Husqvarna any more. Most riding mowers (Husqvarna, Craftsman, etc.) are made by a company called MTD which I understand is now owned by AYP (American Yard Products). That's why so many look the same. Most use standard engines (Briggs, Kohler, etc.) but Cub Cadet has their...

Are you SURE your tractor has no glow plugs? I believe most of the Japanese engines in compact tractors from that era did have them. Your engine is a Yanmar, by the way. Look for an owner's manual or a schematic diagram. TractorData.com John Deere 855 tractor information

Acceptable hydraulic fluid may be transmission specific. That is, if you have an HST transmission there are specific fluids to use as the transmission shares the reservoir with the hydraulic system. Get an owner's manual for your tractor and follow it. They should be available in print or...

Dielectric grease is indeed an insulator and there is no way twelve volts will "jump" through it. It excludes oxygen and helps prevent corrosion. Be sure battery terminals and connectors are clean and tight, of course. The heat on your positive terminal indicates current is flowing somewhere...

Your options may depend on the age and overall condition of the tank as well as the size. Welding may not even be an option. You might consider one of the internal paint type seal coats if it's an old tank or thin metal. If you go that route just be sure to remove all fittings and plug the...

There's a list of things to check buy the one I'm most likely to forget is to depress the clutch. If I'm depressing the HST pedal I won't get any starter action, either. Beyond that of course is are the seat switch and PTO switch. Some tractors may require gear selector placed into neutral or...

My tractor manual specifies ethylene glycol based coolant. It does not specify a brand. A 50/50 blend with distilled water is basically the mix. Or you can buy it premixed by several brands at most auto parts stores.

When the light is illuminated put a voltmeter on the plug itself to see if it is energized. I don't know how your system is wired - a schematic would be a big help there - but a good starting point would be to see what's actually happening.

With a Kubota you do have to flip the seat up but I think you have two seconds to do so before the engine shuts down.

Perhaps I misunderstood the original post. It appeared to me you were having a problem with oil coming out the breather cap. Unless the oil was grossly overfilled I do not believe the amount of heat generated in the engine would be capable of causing that much engine oil expansion. Check your...

If you want legal advice your should probably speak with an attorney licensed in your state.

You should be fine, just don't run it in 4WD on the asphalt.

Check your engine oil level. If hydraulic fluid is leaking into the oil it will overfill the oil pan and blow it out.

I don't know old tractors, either. I do know that on some (many?) compact tractors the hydraulic pump is driven by a gear off the crankshaft. If the seal on the hydraulic pump leaks oil can escape directly into the crankcase. There will be no external leak when this happens.

I don't think the oil filler cap is your problem. If oil comes out there it's not the job of the cap to hold it in. Gravity should allow it to return from the valves back to the oil pan. If you remove the valve cover you may find sludge built up preventing oil flow back to the crankcase. Use...

If you're running the correct oil viscosity it should probably idle at twenty to thirty pounds - possibly more when cold. Below ten or fifteen is really low. You may be using the wrong oil. The spring in your oil pressure relief valve may be tired. The oil pump may be shot. Your crankshaft...

The easiest way to test the pressure is probably to remove the sending unit and install the pressure gauge at that point. Normally the sending unit screws into the block. If the pressure is in fact low it could be the oil pump but it's also possible the spring in your pressure relief valve is...

A bit more detail would be helpful.

What lines specifically did he check when there was no fuel? The injector lines? Start at the first line out of the fuel tank. Open it and be sure you have good flow from the tank. There may be stoppage in there. Then replace the fuel filter. Bleed the injector pump until you're sure all...

You may wish to determine exactly what type fluid is in there, though it may be simpler to just replace the fluid with new fluid of the recommended type. If the fluid is black it's probably due for a change anyhow.

It may be something as simple as a bad connection or even a bad battery. Low voltage can really confuse computers. You could start by having the battery fully charged and load tested. From there clean the terminals and the cable ends. Attach them securely to the battery being sure they're...

Upon reflection it also occurred to me you could try tightening the starter's mounting bolts as that is the return path to ground. Also be sure the starter power cable connections are tight on both ends. I still think it's probably the starter but these are other (less expensive) things to...

If you're seeking turnbuckles for your three point lift bars you might wish to check out the telescoping units instead. Kubota probably has them for your tractor.

You should be able to turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the crankshaft. That will let you know if it turns freely. It does sound as though your starter may be the culprit - unless there's a short to ground somewhere nearby. As a second check you could remove the starter from the...

It does sound like a flow restriction. It is possible enough fuel seeps slowly by the restriction to fill the lines and allow you to start. The running engine possibly burns fuel faster than the restriction allows it to pass and you run out of fuel. The fuel tank vent if clogged can have a...

It would be a lot cheaper and easier to just shorten the PTO shaft or purchase a new one. You do know PTO shafts slide in and out, right?

I had the same question as Dusty. I put a layer of hay and horse droppings onto the garden and can now harvest many kinds of weeds. Mulch may act as a good ground cover but if you're mowing to reduce weed content on your pasture you'll be moving the seeds to your garden.

The tractor is definitely old enough for switches to be failing but some of the connectors could be corroded, too. You could try pulling connectors and cleaning or tightening them.

Do you want a tractor or a project? There appears to be little if anything a lopper won't clear away, I'm not sure you need a chainsaw very badly. You will need to figure at least a full day spent between driving and retrieving the tractor. Perhaps your time means nothing to you. If it ran...

The best source for anything Mitsubishi or Satoh is probably Valley Power

You could also try a company called Koyker in South Dakota. Regardless of the brand you choose you're probably looking at upwards of $4000 for a new loader.

This is not a new tractor so let's start with the basics. Charge the battery and have it load tested. Clean the battery terminals and the cable ends. Tighten cable connectors securely on the battery. Trace the ground wire to the point where it attaches to the frame. Clean and tighten...

I change my own oil and am therefore quite able to keep an eye on my filters, too. Can you put an air filter in backwards? You may wish to do a bit of follow up on that one. The guy may have been feeding your wife a line to get an air filter sale out of the deal and had a problem when challenged.

Bear in mind that the price a dealer sells for is not likely to be the price you would get for a similar item. That is, you MAY get the same price but the dealer has foot traffic through his dealership and sale personnel on staff who sell things for a living. I purchased a tractor a couple...

Your tractor may not have a relay. Many Japanese tractors of that vintage used a dropping resistor to drop the twelve volt power to the 10.5 volts the glow plugs use. It took the form of a kind of glowing indicator, usually a round thing with holes, on the dash. Inside is a short coil of...

At just under $10.00 this may be your cheapest solution: Battery Operated Liquid Transfer Pump

Are you satisfying all the safeties? My 26 hp Craftsman / Kohler combo has safeties in the clutch/brake, mower switch, and seat. Sometimes all are in the mood to work together, sometimes one won't cooperate. Good luck tracking that one down.

I would remove the sending unit from the block and attach the pressure meter there. That way you have a ready made attachment point and can read exactly what the pressure switch would read. Incidentally, pressure switches do fail from time to time and the usual mode is to indicate you have low...

congratulations on the new acquisition and thanks for sharing.

I'd never used Sea Foam either, until I did. I have a pressure washer that would only run at low throttle settings and with the choke set. I ran it for a bit on a 50/50 mix of gasoline and Sea Foam. I saw no improvement. I left it overnight. I guess Sea Foam did some magic overnight as the...

I don't know how your tractor's built but my Kubota is HST AND has a clutch. When the clutch is depressed it disengages the PTO and my mower slows down. I suspect if that clutch was slipping the mower could slow down in use. Even with HST you can have a defective clutch.

I don't think the fuel pump would continue with the key off and removed. You could probably confirm easily enough by doing your bypass thing. You could also bypass the safety switches one at a time until you identify the culprit.

I'll go along with "beenthere" but add you should be sure battery cables are properly tightened and trace your ground wire to the frame. Clean it and make sure it's tightned securely.

The mower blades slow down. Got it. Does the tractor engine slow down as well? If the mower slows and the tractor engine does no slow you may have a slipping clutch.

It sounds like you're dealing with a high resistance in your circuit. A battery can measure full voltage yet fail to produce adequate current under load. Charge it and have it load tested. Clean the battery terminals and the cable ends. Reinstall cables and tighten securely. Track the...

Rather than disassembling the carburetor for a "good cleaning" I'd try adding Sea Foam to the gasoline. The engine should still run at seventy percent Sea Foam but you don't really need that high a content to clean the passages. It does the job well. As a second choice try eBay or Amazon for...

I have a Kohler on my lawn mower (garden tractor). Frequently it won't start right off and I need to put a small amount of gasoline down the carburetor. That seems to get it running fast enough to make the phony fuel pump work and I'm okay from there. On a hod day mowing it may quit. I think...

That looks like a handy implement to have. It might be even more interesting if I didn't already have a receiver welded under my ballast box.

You may have to fabricate something but I had a friend who used a bicycle wheel for the purpose. Harbor Freight has some inexpensive wheels which can use standard size rod for axles. If you have a bit of mechanical know how and some scrap steel lying around you can probably fabricate a means...

I had a Mitsubishi D2350 and as I recall removal of the injectors was very straightforward. If I wanted to put oil into the cylinders I would probably remove glow plugs.

Tightening the links will reduce the sway. Allow an inch or two of play. Beyond that it's possible the arms are too short to allow clearance.

Denchen's solution sounds reasonable. I suggest cleaning the battery terminals and the connectors attached to them. Tighten them back securely. Track the ground wire to where it attaches to the frame. Clean and tighten there as well. Be sure the battery is up to full charge. You could even...

With the shear bolt removed the shaft should slip right off. I suspect rust or corrosion is preventing this from happening. Try tapping with a hammer after applying penetrating oil. You may be able to get it to move a bit by tapping it further on a bit just to break the adhesion. It's also...

A bit more detail would be nice. Does your tachometer still work and just the hour meter quit, or does neither work? Is it mechanical or electronic? Older tractors tend to be mechanical while newer ones use more electronics.

You've purchased a forty year old tractor. How many hours are on the tractor? I don't think rolling the tractor onto its side caused the blow by problem. It sounds more age and wear related - rings or valves. You could start with a compression test and make some decisions based on that...

You can find the 65 on Tractor Data but the 65r appears to be a different beast, though still Massey Ferguson. Do a web search for the 65r and this will turn up: Massey Ferguson 65R backhoe

If you have a shop in your area which works on diesel trucks they should be able to identify your injectors and either rebuild or replace them. We have a local diesel shop which, besides working on big diesel trucks, works on farm equipment injectors and fuel pumps. It's a family run shop -...

What was the status before you went through the fuel system? Why did you go through the fuel system? Is the current behavior similar to where you started? The white smoke is generally indicative of a cold engine and should soon disappear. Continued white smoke can indicate water getting into...

How's your hydraulic fluid level? Is your hydraulic pump putting out any pressure?

On principle, try bleeding the fuel system per the manual. It may not help but can't hurt.

The B series you are looking at or the LX series are some of the largest of those tractors. The L2501 is at the bottom of the L frame series and they go up from there. I opted for the L2501 over the L3301 based on simplicity. The L2501 has no computer and no diesel particulate filter. It is...

The big trick when setting valve lash is to set it when the rocker arm is at the maximum distance from the valve stem in question. That way the valve can close fully at the proper time. If you can get both valves during compression that can be a real time saver. You can also rotate the engine...

Use a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol based antifreeze. Pure water carries heat away better than the glycol but the glycol extends the freezing and boiling limits. More glycol will give better freeze protection but at the cost of lower boiling point. Are you sure your tractor will even accept a...

That seems like a lot of trouble for a "little extra power". If you know what you're doing you can probably squeeze a bit more power by altering the timing and increasing the amount of fuel injected. I think that would be simpler than adding a turbo.

I'm not sure how much info is out there. I looked at Mitsubishi D1300 Tractor Specifications and learned a bit. You could try Valley Power as they are quite knowledgeable on the Mitsubishi tractors. They're generally a pretty solid little tractor. Congratulations.

You may have other safety switches. Since the clutch switch is bypassed you may also wish to check seat, PTO, and be sure tractor is in neutral when trying to start.

The owner's manual should tell that - if it can be done. Unfortunately it may need to be done via programming the on board computer.

White smoke may be indicative of water getting into the combustion chamber. If you take it back to the dealer have them run a compression test. You may have a defective head gasket.

It is possible the cap on your fuel tank isn't venting properly. Next time it stalls you can try removing and replacing the cap and see if it will restart without the wait. You could also check the cap for blockage to see if there's an air path through it.

I was able to score a hydraulic pump for my Mitsubishi D2350 from eBay - brand new for far less than anywhere else. Otherwise, my primary go to place was Valley Power

Try going up the hill in your lowest gear. It sounds like your clutch is slipping. Start by checking the adjustment. If adjusting won't solve the problem you may be looking at splitting the tractor for a new clutch.

I guess I fill both categories. I had a Mitsubishi D2350 for about fifteen years. It did what I asked of it whenever I asked - mostly. Sometimes there were repairs needed but all in all it was a wise purchase. It was a gray market tractor and getting long of tooth so repair parts started to...

I believe you should have about an inch of free play with your clutch. Check the adjustment and adjust if necessary. If it is adjusted correctly you obviously have other issues - like it's slipping. The leak is also a concern. Get with your dealer and Jim is correct - there is no warranty on...

Your options appear to be your dealer or Messicks. You could also try kubotausa.com. The price will not be cheap - probably in excess of $100 and likely a set of loose leaf pages for which you'll need to provide a binder.

Additional info from Tractor Data: TractorData.com Ford 3910 tractor information

The hydraulic will probably build better hoses than the manufacturer provides, anyhow. I have all replacement hoses made at a local hydraulic shop. The original hoses don't begin to compare. Some auto parts stores in rural areas can make hoses as well.

You could try cleaning them by hand with a Scotchbrite pad watching the results. My Mitsubishi tractor started going white and I thought the paint had oxidized. My body man neighbor thought it was a build up of blown dust chemically bonding to the paint. He was right. It never came...

According to Tractor Data your engine takes 5.6 quarts of oil. There is a range of recommended viscosiites depending on temperature. Be sure your oil is diesel rated. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/1/5/154-john-deere-1070-engine.html

If you have a circular saw you can put a concrete cutting blade on it and cut the asphalt into easily removable strips which can be pried loose with a pry bar or even a claw hammer.

I've got ten acres and opted for my Kubota L2501 o stay below the emission stuff and avoid having a computer. I'm sure you'll find 25 horsepower adequate. It will do about anything a a bigger tractor will do, it just may take a bit longer.

Be sure your hydraulic fluid isn't low. I think the loader height is measured from the bottom of the bucket but could be mistaken. The manual may give dimensions and measuring points.

Blow or rinse the radiator from the back to the front to force out stuff which may be caught. Rinsing from front to back is easier but you risk jamming things more tightly. Also, check your coolant level when the engine and radiator are cold. You could be losing coolant - another potential...

Grease fittings on the loader should appear in the loader manual, not the tractor operator manual. There should be an even number of them. The sides are mirror images for locations. Note that the frequency is supposed to be ten hours for the loader. Don't forget to torque your wheels and the...

I live in eastern Washington and as I understand your friend's progress the conduit is now in the ground. At this point the state electrical inspector is not involved as the power company (PUD) does their own thing. They should have had an easement in place before placing the conduit. With...

You may have a problem or no problem. Most implements running off the PTO "want" it set to 540 rpm. Do you know what speed your engine must be running to achieve 540 rpm at the PTO? Your engine should be running at that speed. Your ground speed will be controlled by the gear you select or...

Gee, it looks like they got it wrong on all counts. I recently did the fifty hour change on my Kubota. Prior to going to the dealer I went to the Kubota website for the parts breakdown for my tractor. There I found the original part number for the required filters. I noted the part numbers...

Determine the proper engine speed to get the PTO up to the appropriate speed - usually 540 rpm. The necessary engine speed is probably in the neighborhood of 1500 to 2000 rpm - that will vary by tractor. You then select the proper gear for your desired forward motion speed at this rpm.

You may be able to get a manual and certainly accurate information from Valley Power

If it's your first filter change you may not see a part number on the original filters. I don't know about Kioti but Kubota paints them at the factory.

Many compact tractors use an oil pump with a gear spun by the crankshaft. You may have hydraulic oil leaking from the pump through the shaft seal and into the crankcase. A bit of seepage is not abnormal but when the seal goes bad you can get a much faster flow from the pump into the crankcase...

Surf You Tube. One of the guys shows how to make one for his Kubota. You may get some ideas.

I have nothing for or against Mahindra. I went with Kubota because I don't happen to like our sleazy local Mahindra dealer even though he's much closer. If you plan to start a dealership you should look into what it will cost for required spares to stock as well as locating a quality reliable...

If the width adjusts the same way it does on the L series it may indeed be too much for one person. There are some bolts to be removed while the tractor is supported but the width must then be adjusted which means the wheel must rotate a bit at the same time.

You can also find it from the Kubota USA website.

I have read you can connect a shop vac to reduce fluid loss during hydraulic filter change, unfortunately nobody tells how. The filler cap on my L2501 happens to be one inch NPT threaded. I used a one inch socket to male NPT PVC connector, a short piece of one inch PVC, and a PVC socket...

It is possible your tractor is just "tired". Given the vintage you may want start with a compression test.

The indicator is a nichrome wire which, in addition to acting as an indicator, drops the twelve volts to about 10.5 - the actual glow plug voltage. If you jump or bypass the indicator you will then be putting full voltage to the glow plugs. Other than the increased voltage the system will...

You can try blowing the dust our of the area but dust may have gotten into the brake area and it's possible you'll have to disassemble the brake to quiet the noise. Of course you can check your brake for wear at that time. (Lacking an indicator I find it easy to forget to release the parking...

I don't know what loader commonly comes on which models. I can tell you the LA 525 loader comes on at least three different Kubota L models having differing pressures and flows. That said, the flow rate will affect the rate at which the loader does work - less flow = slower operation but it...

In case nobody contacts you, they're located in Roanoke, VA and I highly recommend them: Valley Power

I have no idea how Ford (Shibaura) created a quiet HST but I can tell you the Kubota HST is typically noisy. Some have said it gets somewhat quieter with use. The fluid the dealer used at setup could affect the noise level. I think Kubota had three different recommended fluids. Their UDT was...

If you see lots of black smoke when attempting a start it's probably getting fuel but could be really short on air. Check the air filter and from there to the intake manifold for anything that would prevent or obstruct airflow.

I wouldn't even think of trying a substitute in my Kubota HST tractor. Hydraulic fluid cost is noise level next to what the tractor cost I'm sticking with SUDT2 - or whatever is current for HST. Among other things it meets warranty requirements and quiets the whine.

There's a wealth of Satoh / Mitsubishi info to be had in Roanoke, VA, at Valley Power

You are running very close to over temperature. Be sure your radiator fins are clear. If you've not done so, flush and reverse flush your cooling system. It is possible your thermostat is not opening fully. A newly overhauled engine can run a bit hot during break in but not a lot, it may not...

I like to start at the source. Clean your battery terminals. Clean the inside of the connectors. Replace connectors and tighten firmly - they should not move. Trace your ground lead to the point where it connects to the frame. Clean surfaces well and be sure connection is tight. I'd begin...

I don't know what you did or your specific parts but a circlip will frequently have a couple holes to be used with special pliers to spread them just enough for removal. An E clop is similar but lacks the holes. It is usually popped off and on.

Other than the oil pan leak I believe your other problems have all been dealer set up problems. The dealer should probably address them with his set up crew. You could try having them go over their setup procedure with your tractor. They may have missed a few other things. If they're...

I've never worked on a three point but it sounds like you've got fluid bypassing the controls internally somehow. You could have a worn valve or seal inside. Try to locate a parts breakdown for your three point hydraulic system. Lacking that look for information for other Japanese three point...

I had a Mitsubishi D2350 which would stick in second from time to time. I could remove the access plate with shifter lever and access the gears. I could then use a big screwdriver or pry bar to pop it out of gear - until the next time.

You should check the specifications for your specific tractor but most seem to idle around 1000 rpm.

That's not much to go on. Do you travel any distance before it bogs down? Does it stall completely or do you just push in the clutch to keep it running? Could you have your parking brake set? Sometimes I forget to release mine.

Make sure fuel is flowing freely from the tank. It could be restricted by crud inside permitting barely any flow but enough to fill lines back up if allowed to sit.

I have my hydraulic hoses made to length at a local hydraulic shop. Some auto parts stores offer the service as well. I have an HST transmission so I stick with the Kubota SUDT2 fluid and use their filters as well. If you prefer having stuff shipped to your house try Messick's website.

My go to for Mitsubishi parts was Valley Power. They may have injectors. I had my Mitsubishi injectors rebuilt by a diesel shop in Pasco, WA. If I recall correctly they could have sold me brand new injectors but mine weren't that bad. Mitsubishi did not make my injectors. I think they were...

I have heard of corrosion on the magnet on the flywheel weakening or eliminating spark.

The 54" mower is probably overkill for your yard. I had a 54" Craftsman but fine my new XT2 Cub Cadet at 42" much more maneuverable. The Cub dealer was rather proud of the fact that they now build their own engines - they are no known brand. Based on that I would say the nybirdman is probably...

I can still crawl under cars and tractors but reading the Amazon blurb I note this little pump can also be used for diesel. That could certainly make easier refueling than lifting a five gallon can onto the hood of the tractor. It's certainly a better deal than anything offered by Harbor Freight.

I usually just type the name if the tractor on which I'm seeking into my web browser. One of the responses is invariably the correct page on the Tractor Data website. If you just want to go to the site, try: TractorData.com - information on all makes and models of tractors

As suggested you could seek the manual online but you could also see if anyone has done a You Tube video on the process.

Many of the newer gasoline engines have an electric solenoid in the carburetor. When you turn off the engine it kills the spark but also shuts off the fuel to prevent engine overrun. Perhaps your shutoff solenoid (if you have one) is defective or sticking.

I had a Mitsubishi tractor. There was a specific sequence for bleeding the air out of the lines. Fuel flow from the tank to the injector pump was strictly gravity fed. The injector pump did not suck fuel, it had to BE there. Sometimes bleeding once didn't get all the air out and I'd have to...

Black smoke usually indicates your mixture is too rich. Check to see how clean your air cleaner is before digging too deeply into it. A clogged air cleaner or blockage in the path from there to the manifold can make a mixture too rich, too. I like to start with the dumb stuff and go from there.

You could try having someone operate the brake pedal while you look underneath to see what's going on. If the tractor's on warranty it's probably covered but if you can see the issue and the fix is simple there would be no need to wait for the dealer to address the problem.

The DT means it's a gear drive tractor rather than glide shift or hydrostatic. Filters are cheap enough that I just use the ones from Kubota. I have a lot of money invested in my tractor and prefer to do my best to care for it. I have a hydrostatic transmission and am more careful because of...

I didn't know about the magnets. I got some square (kind of) U bolts (Lowe's I think) and some angle aluminum to attach to them. I drilled the aluminum for the U bolts and added a hole in each piece for my light bar. It may rust or fade or whatever over time (didn't think of that) but it's a...

Great idea. It could save a trip to the garage when I start to lose pressure. I don't think it would make much difference, though. That only happens on Friday evenings about bedtime. But that way I'd know I'd be all weekend without water without making a trip to the garage to confirm...

If you have a vented fuel cap it is possible the vent is plugged causing a partial vacuum in the tank. It is also possible you have algae or some such blockage inside the tank. Try disconnecting the fuel line at the first junction after the tank and seeing if fuel flows freely into a bucket...

You may be over thinking the issue. If it clicks when you hit the starter all the safeties have probably been satisfied. Cleaning battery terminals and connections is an excellent start but don't neglect the ground lead going to the frame. If you still lack success you should have the battery...

Have you checked the glow plugs? If you've had a fuel line apart to check fuel flow you will need to bleed the air out of the lines. Be sure you have good air flow. If the filter is clean you could have an obstruction between the air filter and the engine intake.

If the engine won't turn over you may have a voltage problem Start by cleaning the battery terminals and the connectors that attach to them. Tighten them securely. Track the ground wire to its attachment point on the frame. Make sure that's a clean, solid connection. Use care to check for...

Is the starter turning the engine over but not starting? Or will the starter not engage at all? Is the tractor gasoline or diesel? (I know, probably diesel but it can make a difference.)

I don't know your tractor but normally the PTO is disengaged (not spinning) when not in use.

Pull the fuel line at the first junction after the tank. Get a jar or a bucket and observe gravity flow directly from the tank to ensure you have a good, unobstructed flow. You could have crud in the tank. Of course after this exercise you will need to bleed the air from your system.

If you elect to coat the tank, remember to remove all fittings first. You don't want to coat or bridge the fuel outlet.

When I had a Mitsubishi tractor I was usually able to source parts from Valley Power and Equipment in Roanoke, VA. They have many years of Satoh and Mitsubishi experience. They also have a "boneyard". You could give them a call - Valley Power

I don't know your tractor but parts breakdowns for many models are available online at the Kubota website - Kubota | Sub-compact, Agriculture, Utility, Compact Tractors

In the meantime be sure your front tires are fully inflated. A low tire can REALLY increase steering effort, especially with a full loader. Try to turn the tractor only when moving. It's much easier that way. Be sure all steering components are properly lubricated and nothing is binding.

Trace the wiring looking for a bare or worn spot. It may be that in washing the unit you moved the wire a bit causing the bare spot to go to a high resistance short. If it is definitely not the sender and not wire the instrument is the only thing left.

I don't know your tractor - I've got a Kubota. If all safeties are not satisfied the dash appears to light normally, the starter simply will not engage until safeties are happy. Check your manual or check another model of the same tractor when safeties are not satisfied to see how it reacts...

I'll stick with my between ranges theory for now. I've had the same thing happen with my old Mitsubishi tractor as well as my current Kubota. The old Mitsubishi had eighteen different gearings. It did not have a single gearshift, it essentially had three levers. One was on the fender and...

I don't know your particular tractor but a change in timing can have a great effect on horsepower output. If you have a computer controlled engine the computer can be programmed to make these changes and the operator will never know the difference. It can also control the amount of fuel...

To each his (or her) own. I find it a useful if unnecessary indicator. I'll keep mine though I could definitely do without it.

I know absolutely nothing about a JD 1435 or any other John Deere. I do not know the age of the unit so consider any information general. Generally glow plugs are wired in parallel. If you have power to one you'll have power to all. Glow plugs generally need 10.5 volts, not 12. Older...

I am going to guess the engine runs but something won't engage. If you have multiple speed ranges it is possible the tractor is between ranges - effectively in neutral. This can happen with an HST as well as a standard transmission if there are multiple ranges from which to select.

There could also be an issue with the fuel stop solenoid. I don't know about your specific model but some have an initial opening position then a lower current draw hold position. Your solenoid may be getting weak.

Your PTO solenoid may be weak.

Is your new fuel pump actually putting out fuel? Do you have the in and out lines connected correctly. Don't laugh, a friend got a great deal on a gasoline powered welder and all he had to do for repair was swap the lines. Is your carburetor float set to the correct level? The float turns...

You may have a loose or dirty battery connection. Check the battery voltage when the tractor is not running then check it again when the tractor is running. Turn on some lights and see if it varies.

When I had a Mitsubishi I got my parts from Valley Power

Try the Kubota USA website. They offer quite a few safety related decals as well as others.

Does the starter spin the motor over at what seems a reasonable speed - about like the starter on a car would? Do the glow plugs work? Have you tried checking for decent fuel flow past the fuel filter? Have you bled the air out of the fuel lines? Is the air cleaner clean? Clean your battery...

With the tractor not running check the battery voltage. As stated it should be around 12.6 volts. If it reads otherwise don't worry, just make a note of it. Start the tractor and measure again. The voltage should be higher if the tractor is charging. If it is the same or lower you need to...

The temperature probe will frequently be found in the area of the thermostat. That is the location of the hottest water headed back to the radiator.

It's most likely a CYA thing. If you run a more powerful tractor and the hitch or implement breaks it's on you. I suspect it has something to do with our sue crazy environment today.

I'd probably start by seeing if the glow plugs are actually getting power. It would be really bad to buy a new relay and find out you have a bad lamp.

With the mower connected try raising it such that most of the weight is on the lift arms. Push it side to side. The stabilizers should be adjusted to remove most (but not all) of the slack, hopefully preventing it from swinging side to side and contacting the tires. If your lift arms are too...

I'd run it for a few minutes to take the chill off the engine. While it's running the hydraulic fluid is circulating and warming, too.

Black smoke with a diesel frequently indicates a lack of air. Check your air filter for clogging as well as the passage from their to the engine intake.

You're going to die - that's a foregone conclusion. The question on that is when. You may outlive your wife and your tractor, one never knows. I went tractor shopping a couple years ago and liked the Kubota L3301 myself (or was it the L3901)? I don't remember. I settled on the L2501 for two...

If you can get your grease gun connected to the fitting it obviously should take grease though the angle may be such that you can't get a good connection. I generally have to raise, lower, or curl to get good line up on all my fittings. If it absolutely won't take grease you could try removing...

Generally mist later trucks do have lighting connectors of some sort from the factory. I do not know Isuzu at all. Some are concealed under a spring cover which protects them when not in use. If you lack a factory outlet connections can be added from existing lights though many will add a...

The dimensions of the battery are certainly a concern but you should also consider placement of the terminals if your cables are short. Older batteries generally have top terminals but positive and negative may be in reversed locations for a given battery size. For instance a Group 24 battery...

I'm with grshthegreat. I pull batteries from unused equipment in the winter and store them in my slightly heated well equipment room. Disconnected they hold a charge over the winter. I top them up in the spring and I'm good to go for the season. Solar chargers seem to work best where there's...

I don't worry about when summer diesel starts selling. Winter diesel will burn fine all year around. I don't think it has quite as many BTUs per gallon but it shouldn't hurt a thing. I'm more concerned about when winter diesel is available.