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If the battery and connections are good and your panel lights but the engine won't turn over you probably do have a safety switch problem. You may be mechanically activating the switch but it could be failed or dirty internally. You could check it with an ohmmeter. With the key off the...

If you're using rattle cans (which is the only way I've seen Krylon) you can't add a hardener. The catalyst stuff is used with paint our of a spray gun. It makes a difference as the paint may not set up properly without it. If you're using rattle cans figure on keeping the tractor indoors...

Do NOT run it in the garage with the door shut!!! It may not smoke but the fumes build quickly. It would be better to blow the exhaust out with a fan or use the exhaust hose out the door.

You may need to do a little digging. I don't think tractors were required a DPF until 2014. That 2012 may have met tier 4 requirements for 2012 but those requirements were not the same as tier 4 today. Consequently there may have been no DPF or computer on the 2012 tractor. Current...

My L2501 was about $20,000 in July, 2019 with FEL for comparison. I don't know what they go for now, nor do I know the availability. I was under the impression the warranty would transfer so you may want to check on that or see if the dealer will offer some kind of warranty.

The alternator puts out a higher than necessary voltage. The voltage regulator should drop it to around 13.5 to 14.5 or fifteen volts. However if the wires are not connected to the battery they have no reference point. How high does the battery charge? If charges the battery to eighteen...

I really think Mahindra or your dealer would be a good source to ask. Changing the rear tire size should have had a corresponding change to the front wheel size. There is a specific ratio of outer diameters between the front and rear to consider on a four wheel drive tractor.

If tractor will crank over all safeties are probably satisfied. I'll agree - check the fuel shutoff solenoid.

I put one on my tractor. I do use it. i find it a very useful accessory though I used my bucket quite a bit before I got it. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I ignore it.

The short answer - it shouldn't be a problem. If you want the real answer do an internet search for the weight of your truck and its gross carrying capacity. Subtract the weight of your existing bed from the weight of the truck. If you don't overload the new bed you should be fine.

Actually, according to Tractor Data it appears they used an unsynchronized and a partially synchronized. One may slip more easily into gear with less grinding than the other but I'm not sure how you'd tell for sure. I suspect the partially synchronized unit would slip into gear more easily...

68 foot pounds sounds awfully low to me. I suggest going on line to find an owners' manual or check with your local Kubota dealer.

If powering one small terminal and grounding the other completes the circuit and activates the solenoid I'd probably just ground the terminal. The three point solenoid just has one terminal grounded internally.

I don't know if any machine is too much machine for a new user. That would depend more on its intended use and how large the property is. The B series has a smaller frame than the L series. For an in between Kubota came up with the LX series which is essentially the larger frame B tractors...

It "seems" like he can get parts? You might ask him how or where this happens. If it's eBay, when they're gone they're gone. Ask yourself if you need or even really want it.

If the stalling is always related to removing your foot from the brake I'd start by looking at the brake interlock and perhaps the seat as well. It may even "think" the blade is engaged. It definitely sounds like a safety switch issue. There may be a safety switch on the HST as well. Many...

Congratulations on finding a good dealer and solving your problem. I bought my last tractor from what is currently an LS dealership. I like the dealer so well I paid more (with the wife's blessing) to buy a Kubota this time. I've nothing against LS, it's strictly the dealer.

If you're sure the battery posts and connectors are clean be sure to tighten them securely. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten there as well. No, I don't know what the black relay is but the buzzing may indicate it can't get enough...

If the bucket is level it may not have enough reach to lift the front end. You may have to roll the bucket away from you to get the lip in contact with the ground to give it a bit more height.

That would seem to be the logical place. It is also possible to cut the pressure line anytime after the hydraulic pump and just use the loader as a kind of loop on the pressure line. Of course quick disconnects should be used so you can easily reconnect the lines if the loader is removed.

All these wonderful gadgets and no clue where to find them.

I'm sure it won't help to tell you it's a bad design. Do you have any warranty left of your tractor? If not you could try J B Weld and hope for the best or possibly attempt laying a fiberglass patch on the area. Clean it well and scuff it up first.

You could try bypassing the seat switch. You could also contact the dealer for suggestions. They may have had similar seat switch problems and could even offer to mail you a new one at no charge. It's worth a try.

Take the bulb to your local auto parts store. They should be able to identify it and make suggestions.

Begin by cleaning the air filter. Starting fluid is not good but if it won't even try with that you could simply be lacking air. If you have air, fuel, and compression it should go.

A washer like what, exactly? The easy answer is any hardware store. Take the old one with you for comparison. If you need more information you should state the diameter of the hole in the center and the outer diameter of the washer. Thickness may be helpful, too. Is it a plain round flat...

You may wish to start with your ignition switch to make sure it is the correct one and the wires are in the correct locations. Are you sure you're counting positions correctly? My tractor has four positions. Of course it has an off position. Rotating the key counter clockwise against a...

Does the tractor have a loader or do you plan to add one? If the tractor has a loader, it uses the same hydraulic fluid as the three point and the transmission. Once the loader has been added and the fluid serviced there is no real change in fluid levels. When you change hydraulic fluid the...

I removed all those soft bolts from my Pat's hitch. I replaced them with appropriate Allen screws. I used different lengths based on where I put them and how I wanted it adjusted. The Allen screws will allow me to remove them by screwing through.

With that particular problem I'd charge the battery then have it load tested. I'd clean the battery terminals and the connectors. Replace the connectors onto the terminals then tighten securely. If they can be moved they're not secure. follow the ground wire to the frame. Clean and tighten...

Clean the battery terminals and the surfaces on the connectors. Tighten securely. Follow ground wire to frame. Clean and tighten.

They normally respond to emails but this is the weekend. You could also try a phone call but probably not before Monday.

Many tractors have a hydraulic pump at the front of the engine driven by a gear on the crankshaft. They are frequently a gear type pump and rarely fail. You could try making sure you get return flow to this pump then put a pressure gauge somewhere on the pressure side to get an idea what's...

The John Deere dye can be added after the transmission fill. It mixes quickly when you start the tractor. If you connect a shop vac to the filler port and pull a partial vacuum it will counteract the atmospheric pressure trying to push the fluid out the drain and slow it tremendously - like...

It could have an internal leak in the fuel pump.

I don't know what the factory adapter would cost or even if there is one available after all these years. The after market adapter may be your only option. Bear in mind that if you want to use your existing bucket later you will probably have to remove the adapter which will likely be some...

Although the bucket is an attachment you should consider it part of the tractor. As far as the mower and the rock rake - only you know if you'll have a use for them. The tractor is about twenty years old, which isn't much for a tractor but certainly not new. 800 hours is fairly low use. From...

Do a bit more research. Check the panel output voltage. From my limited surfing it appears she Sunsei SE series are various capacities of battery chargers. As such it may (or will) have the regulator built in. You may need no additional regulation with that model.

I suspect you won't need a very large tractor. Determine whether lawn mowing will be one of the tasks required of it. Some tractors support front PTO and belly mower but others do not. Whatever you get you should probably stay below 25 horsepower. Above that you'll have a computer and a...

Valley Power is / was a long time Satoh and Mitsubishi dealer. They can source a number of parts and possibly provide manuals in English. I do not know if they ship overseas but they always treated me well.

I do the same - I bottom the dipstick.

Tractor Data has a couple pictures: https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/3/8/3386-kubota-b7800.html

You could have bent the blades but you could also bend a spindle and have the blade hitting something underneath or cut at an angle.

I don't know who makes which models of RK. I had an older Mitsubishi (Japanese) tractor. The hydraulic pump fed off a gear at the front of the engine. If the shaft seal fails it can permit passage of hydraulic fluid from the pump to the crankcase. Mine would get full to the point it would...

If you're really worried about whether RK will continue to sell and service their tractors perhaps you should consider shopping for a different brand.

It's been sitting for months. Charge the battery. Remove cables from battery. Clean connectors. Clean terminals. Reattach cables tightening well. If you can move the cables on the terminals they're not tight. Follow cable to frame ground point. Clean thoroughly and reattach securely...

I'd start by asking the rebuilder what he used. Then determine why your choice of fluid is better. If you still want to change the fluid you should get the hydraulic system warm - like you would for changing engine oil so it flows. You then drain the fluid into a receptacle - caution, there...

If the outer diameter is the same from side to side there should be no problem. You will possibly have issues at highway speeds, especially when cornering at the race track.

It's not so much a question of which tractor will do the job as it is the capability of the loader or the three point - whichever end you're using to lift the pallet. You should also know the weight of a pallet of pellets. The larger tractor will normally have a greater flow capacity but this...

I would think and oil change would be required at fifty hours. Change it per instructions. Fill to proper level which probably will be six quarts with a filter change. Monitor the level. If it stays the same you're good to go. If it increases it is unlikely the tractor is manufacturing oil...

If you've not done so clean or replace the air filter. Be sure the air path from there to the intake is unobstructed. Replace the fuel filters if you've not already done so.

I had one of those diesel Chevrolet cars everybody seems to think are so terrible. It had a block heater of some sort to warm the coolant. I never needed it until the glow plugs failed. With the warm water in the block I never missed the glow plugs - though I did replace them, anyhow. If you...

From the Kohler website I got a PDF file of their various engine types. It may help. http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/common/pdf/brochures/93780_Command_Pro_V_Twins.pdf

I had not considered going up with the exhaust though I have considered going under the tractor and having it exit the rear. If there is enough room between the loader and the hood you could probably go up. Be sure to take rainfall into the exhaust pipe when not running into consideration. My...

Oil flowing out the crankcase dipstick is cause for concern. It COULD have been over filled by the dealer but keep a close eye on it. You could have diesel entering the crankcase. That would result in an over full condition. Another possibility is hydraulic fluid bypassing a leaky pump seal...

According to Tractor Data you have an electro - hydraulic clutch. Needing to pump the pedal may indicate air in the hydraulic part. Perhaps you could bleed the air like bleeding brakes. TractorData.com Mahindra 3510 tractor information

I had problems connecting three point implements to my new Kubota, too. I purchased Pat's Easy Hitch to simplify changing implements. Since this moved things back a couple of inches I did need a longer top link. I also needed a longer PTO shaft for my mowing deck as I learned mine was too...

White smoke can be indicative of water. It can just be condensation in your engine. It could be in the fuel. You may need to drain your water separator. Unfortunately it could also be the head gasket, a cracked head, or a couple of other things. Check to make sure you've no water in your...

I don't know what controls anything on a Mahindra. I do know that most NGK glow plugs are designed for 10.5 volts. 8 sounds a bit low.

Many hydraulic pumps work by two gears meshing together (gear pump) with the spaces between teeth decreasing to produce pressure. They're pretty bullet proof. You may have to prime the pump, though. If there is any bubble in the line prior to the pump it may not pick up and go on its own...

The last tractor starter problem for me was taken to a local automobile starter - generator shop. He could get the repair part but for a few dollars more he could get the whole new starter. I think the new part (Bendix) was about $75 and a whole brand new starter was $125. That's been a few...

You can save money and achieve the same effect mixing propane and oxygen for the right mix with your welding torch. Run the mix down the gopher hole for about two minutes then ignite with a piezo barbecue lighter. It's safer to run the mix down the hole with a half inch iron pipe with the...

When I go "gopher hunting" I'll select a mound. I'll start probing the mound with a rod. It will stop after passing through the loose dirt until I find the passage entrance. It penetrates easily there. Leaving the rod as a place marker I'll dig around it but very close to it. In this way...

Why would you think you might need a starter? Is your tractor having starting problems? If not, worry about what a starter will cost twenty or thirty years from now.

Freeze plugs come in different sizes, as you've already realized. Any engine may use more than one size of freeze plug so you'd have to identify which freeze plug you wish to replace. For specific info on Mitsubishi tractors I'd generally contact Valley Power

I don't design John Deere tractors but the answer may have to do with gravity. Many tractors may have an injection pump but need a steady supply of fuel to that pump. Some incorporate a lift pump for that purpose but most seem to rely on gravity to feed the injection pump. That means the...

Try to find an illustrated parts breakdown for your tractor (whatever it is). How many wires are on the component? If there are only two it could be some sort of switch or sensor, based on its location. If it is on a line (fuel, etc.) and has two wires it could be a shutoff solenoid...

Starting fluid is not recommended for a diesel engine as it ignites at a far lower temperature than diesel and its use can damage your engine. If you are getting too much fuel normally as you try to start it you will get black smoke out the exhaust. A clogged air intake can also cause the too...

If you've not done so, check your air cleaner and the air passage from there to the intake manifold.

Check your fuse panel. My Kubota has a fuse for the work light. My connector was under the left fender I learned from a Kubota website. The fuse was rated at ten amps. I purchased a mating connector for my factory connector and was able to power my lighting from there. I added a switch...

I suggest measuring the actual pump output. A five gallon bucket and a garden hose should serve the purpose. The indexing valve appears to work by flow volume rather than by pressure. Your flow and pressure will be a function of the pump and how far it has to push the column of water to get it...

I installed clamps on my ROPS then added an LED light bar attached to them.

You say you have spark so I'll take for granted the engine is turning over. For an engine to run it requires fuel, air, and ignition. If you have a clear air path (air cleaner not clogged) and spark the only thing remaining is fuel. Check the fuel filter. Look for kinks in the fuel line...

For your injectors, try a local shop that works on large diesel trucks. They should have one or more technicians who rebuild injectors or can suggest appropriate replacements. I had my Mitsubishi injectors rebuilt in a shop in Pasco, WA. Caterpillar is about the only one they can't work on as...

Are these individual dealers or one dealer with several show rooms? I ask because we have about five Kubota showrooms within a hundred mile radius but one company owns them all. If they're interconnected they may show you as a looky loo who doesn't really know what he wants and quotes...

All the above advice is good. Your battery terminal bolts may be metric given that many of John Deere's smaller tractors have a lot of Yanmar parts. For pulling connectors off batteries I've found a puller to be a handy tool to have, as well as a battery terminal cleaner. Try your local auto...

Did you push in the clutch? That's my normal oversight. You seem to know if the engine won't try to turn over it's probably an unhappy safety switch somewhere.

My electrical advice always starts the same way. Remove the cables from the battery. Clean the battery posts and the connectors contact area. Reinstall connectors and tighten securely. If you can wiggle them they are not secure. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten. How...

I believe I went with an Equus 8000 series gauge from Summit. The only electrical connection was for the light. The gauge itself was mechanical meaning gauge and sender are connected by a thin tube. It worked well for me but you must have a clear path to run the sender from the dash to the...

Lithium batteries do seem to run stronger and longer in addition to being lighter in weight than their NiCd or NiMH counterparts. The downside to me is that while in use there seems to be no slow down or tapering off of power when they run out. They transition instantly from good to dead...

My local Kubota mechanic strongly recommends depressing the clutch before disengaging the PTO to prevent undue wear of the gears.

You'll usually find those requirements in the operator's manual.

I suspect being as it's a front tire about any tire shop could apply an internal patch. I'd not consider a plug but an internal patch should last the life of the tire.

Check your wiring. It sounds like a loose or dirty connection, perhaps even chewed wires. I did add a temperature gauge to my Mitsubishi tractor a couple years ago. I got it from Summit Racing. This particular brand offered the choice of a white or black face. The sensor screwed right into...

Be aware that tractors above 25 horsepower have a diesel particulate filter (DPF) and the associated computer controls. That's why I drew the line at my L2501.

If there's a question somewhere there you'll have to elaborate a bit. Oh, and welcome to TBN.

It could be either. It's even possible there is no thermostat. The thermostat is usually the last thing at the top of the engine where the water exits to return to the radiator. The hose usually connects directly to the thermostat housing. You can check the thermostat by removing it and...

I don't know Kioti but if you decide to add a front loader later you'll be in for an unpleasant surprise. If you think you'll ever want one the time to buy it is when it's included with the tractor.

The newer Kubota tractors have moved the brake to the left. You'll have to check to see if it's split but it probably is. Check out the L2502 or other members of the "02" series. Note, if you go above 25 horsepower you'll also have a diesel particulate filter and the associated computer stuff.

Take the old hose to a decent auto parts store. They may be able to come up with a match. If not in stock they may come up with a part number to order.

Generally, if the battery is good and the engine won't turn over, the problem is a safety switch. I don't know Kioti, but these switches may be on the clutch, transmission, or PTO - as well as other possible places. In my case I tend to forget to depress the clutch.

Generally copious black smoke indicates an excess of fuel. This can be a blocked air intake or overly generous injectors. I'm totally unfamiliar with Jinma tractors. Normally I rotate an engine with a socket and breaker bar on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft. You make it sound like...

I don't know Shelter Logic but I do know (from experience) the Harbor Freight offering is prone to blow down in the wind. You may be able to add a lean to to the side of your garage.

The click probably indicates your safeties are satisfied so be sure you have adequate power to start. Remove cables from battery. Clean terminals and connecting surfaces of cables. Lead oxide is a poor conductor. Replace clamps and tighten. If you can wiggle them they are not tight. Follow...

Rather than attempting to list ALL potential PTO and three point implements perhaps your could describe the individual jobs you'd like to accomplish and the tractor you plan to use. The members here could then suggest the best implements for that job.

I don't know what type bearings to which you refer. If it's a caged ball or roller bearing there should be a number stamped on the side. This number is universal across bearing providers. If you don't have or can't make out the number generally the inner and outer diameters along with the...

I don't know Zetor at all but a general question would be are you sure the clutch plate was put in facing the correct direction? I don't know of any clutch fingers. Do you mean the pressure plate? Your clutch adjustment is usually a thread section on a rod between the pedal and the throw out...

Does the three point work at all? Do you by chance have your three point lever in the full up position? If so, the loader may work slowly or not at all. Check the hydraulic fluid level.

I think you should read the manual or ask the dealer for a demo on the specific model of interest. Many tractors permit PTO operation with operator off the tractor but the means of doing so can and probably will vary by brand, model, and year.

I can't help you find one but if you have a diesel truck repair shop nearby they may be able to rebuild your old one.

Working from memory, two 5/8" (I think) eight feet long placed at least six feet apart. Number six solid copper wire connected to each ground rod unbroken and then to panel. Bond to building.

If you could get a narrow tube and a suction pump you may be able to insert the tube into the pool of methanol at the bottom and suck it out. You could also fill the tire with water to dilute the remaining methanol then drain the water. Done two or three times the residual methanol would...

Check your dimensions to be sure. 1 3/8" six spline is the common size for farm PTO but is not the ONLY size used. Some equipment uses a 1 1/8" spline.

I don't know Deere at all. My Kubota has an HST transmission and I have managed to stall the engine a time or two trying to push or pull too much. It's like a regular transmission coming to a stop without depressing the clutch. Is there supposed to be a bypass?

I don't know nor do I have any way of measuring but have read it's best to change oil in the fall as acids and stuff can build up in your used oil and work on the engine in the winter. A fresh oil change in the fall will help prevent this. Since I'm liable to use the tractor intermittently...

I guess the common misconceptions are that the shot is a vaccine. It is not. The shot will prevent Chi-com flu. It will not. The goal is to reduce the severity of the infection or give your immune system a greater chance to fight the infection off if you are exposed to it. Nobody really...

I'd rather read the book than watch the movie.

You should use caution blowing it out. Too much pressure on too small an area may blow right through the filter.

According to Tractor Data that tractor took an LA853 loader. No mention of specific years which would not accept the loader. TractorData.com Kubota L4630 tractor attachments information

If I get this correctly you want to make somebody else's problem your problem, and the somebody else isn't bothered by it. Is that the gist of it? That's okay, I tend to do the same thing. It would be really nice to know HOW old this truck is. Does it have a mechanical fuel pump in the side...

I'm sure your new switch CAN be wired in but would not trust that the numbering is the same as the diagram. I'd grab an ohmmeter and see which terminal connects to which in the various switch positions. From there I'd try to identify what's what between real world and your wiring diagram. One...

The above may work if your tach is electronic. If it's the older type fed by a cable the cable may be binding a bit and need lubricated. You should be able to disconnect one end. You may then be able to pull the internal cable out of the sheath, lubricate it, and reassemble.

Funny thing I noticed about Kubota - they may use a different part number for the same part depending on which tractor it's for. For example, I wanted a right hand grip for my L2501. There is none listed. There is a grip for the L3301 as well as the L3901. Both are different part numbers...

Remove cables from battery. Clean terminals. Clean cable connectors. Replace connectors on battery and tighten securely. If you can wiggle or move them they're not secure. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten. I don't know this is the problem but this way you'll be sure to have...

The placement of the terminals as well as the amp hour rating will come into play as well. Remove the battery and take it to a battery store - one that specializes in batteries. If they can't come up with the exact battery they should be able to find an adequate battery that will fit into the...

Congratulations, it appears you scored a real bargain there!! Now I'll have to dream up one more project so I can save some money getting custom parts for it.

If you do a bit of reading you may learn a three point mounted backhoe can break your tractor frame if you really get into working it. I agree with the above - get a subframe mounted backhoe or if you don't need it regularly just rent one.

It would have originally used the LA481 loader. Kubota would have used the same loader on two or three different models. There are also after market loaders available (Koyker, etc.) but they would probably run $5000 new. It may be worthwhile to purchase a tractor with a loader and sell yours...

I only know the Kubota series so my suggestion leans toward the B or LX series. I believe you can get them with a six foot belly mower which should speed mowing. It runs from a mid PTO which would allow a front snow thrower. I do not know how fast it would run through snow, though. You may...

You give little information but my first step would be to charge the new battery. Clean the terminals and the connectors on the cables. Reattach cables and tighten securely. If you can move it it's not secured. Follow the ground wire to the frame. Clean and tighten there as well. Check the...

I would definitely secure the base of the post to the concrete. I like to use a steel spacer to separate the wood from the concrete - it's even code in some places. The spacer may then be anchored to the concrete with"Ramset" or something similar. I drill a hole to set the anchor then add a...

You can get parts, information, and perhaps a manual from Valley Power

I would disconnect the fuel line at the first practical break after the tank. See if you get a good flow into a container or if it tapers off after a few seconds. Sometimes there is a blockage at the fuel tank output. After ensuring you've got good flow from the tank make sure you have good...

Coby's answer was pretty thorough but I wonder about the data. Is your heater wired for thirty amps or does it actually DRAW thirty amps? If it actually draws less your actual power consumption will be somewhat lower. Of course if your line voltage is greater than 220 (and it frequently is)...

You may wish to check your timing. As points wear the gap changes, which in turn changes the timing. If you have flyweights in your distributor they could be sticking and not allowing a smooth advance, too. Look for a crack in your distributor cap or possibly a plug wire breaking down. You...

There are plugs and there are usually sockets for them. Your post is unclear. Do you just have a plug dangling free? It is probably a jumper from your harness to somewhere. Does the tractor run normally with it disconnected? Do all lighting and other functions work?

If the battery light stays on after starting the engine it usually indicates the alternator output does not exceed the battery voltage - your battery is not charging. This can be as simple as dirty battery terminals but it can also indicate worn brushes, a bad diode, a voltage regulator...

I have no idea how much hydraulic fluid your tractor takes but three gallons sounds low but I don't know the size of your tractor. As far as extra fluid taken by the FEL I wouldn't worry about it. The specs are usually to fill the system from empty. You won't get it completely empty, some...

If the ground is flat you should have enough power to turn the mower. You may have to proceed slowly the first time or two. On hilly ground I'd worry about the weight of the mower versus the weight of the tractor. If you don't have a front loader you may need some weights on the front.

If you still have the original pump it may be possible to have it rebuilt. Some of the diesel engine repair shops can do that.

Thanks for a bit of very useful information.

I'd take it to a local hydraulic shop and ask what they can do.

Check and lube any linkages. If there is any cable in the run it may be seized inside the sheath and require replacement.

If only the two options were available I'd go with Kubota, no question. You may want to look into the M series rather than the MX. I think it's heavier.

How many tractors do you have? How often do your hoses fail? Do you have a ready source for hose and fittings? These are questions to ask yourself before buying a rarely used tool of dubious value. I go along with DL's suggestion as I think I've only replaced three or four hoses in the last...

Weight of unit and thickness of steel used would probably give you an idea of how heavily constructed the cutter is. Find out how much power the gearbox is supposed to take. That may give an idea how sturdy the unit is, too. I've not done any cutter shopping, I've had my King Kutter for over...

It appears you are quite correct about that battery voltage, my bad. I may be mistaken but I believe I have read that it is (or was) illegal to sell consumer battery equipment operating in excess of fifty volts for safety reasons. That could be why replacements are scarce. That may also be...

Disconnect a fuel line near the output of the tank. See if you get a good steady flow of fuel under gravity at that point. You could have some sort of algae buildup or blockage in the tank itself.

You may be able to skip the valve adjustment but the process is not difficult. You need to remove the valve cover, know the input and output measurement numbers, and rotate the engine for maximum play on each valve in sequence. You'll need a feeler gauge and a couple of wrenches. You can do...

It appears your Redback equipment uses forty volt batteries. If you open the pack you can measure individual cells. A cell with zero volts is defective. The packs are available but they ain't cheap. redback batteries | eBay

I've never seen a 120 volt battery. Most of mine are 18 volts. If your battery is composed of individual cells you may well have a failure of one or more individual cells. Most of these batteries can be disassembled and defective cells replaced. There are common sizes of many of these cells...

If the positive cable was loose there could be corrosion between the cable end and the battery terminal. Begin the troubleshooting process with a fully charged battery. Remove cables from battery then clean battery terminals and cable ends. Replace cables on battery, tightening securely. If...

It COULD be the pump but it's unlikely. Check your hydraulic fluid level, it may be low. Also check for any loose or leaky connections. If you have quick disconnects on your hydraulic lines sometimes problems are solved by simply taking them apart and reconnecting them.

i think the location has a great deal to do with needing a lightning rod setup. The electrical codes for grounding buildings have changed a great deal through the years, too.

You may be disappointed with my answer. Generally you buy a "standard size" PTO shaft then cut it to fit. The tractor end is pretty common to all tractors. The mower end may vary with a new end put on the brush hog end to mate with your brush hog. That end does vary.

This may sound really obvious but is your brake set or dragging?

If the tractor runs while you're directly applying power to the fuel pump you should probably investigate why it doesn't get power normally while the key is on. Perhaps your ignition switch is defective? A schematic diagram would be a great help as you start through the issue. It is also...

I'd start my troubleshooting by checking the air filter.

Voltage normally drops somewhat when the starter is energized. Depending on the vehicle power may be interrupted to all other circuits when the starter is energized. Begin your quest by fully charging the battery then having it load tested. Clean the battery terminals well. Clean the...

You could start by checking your clutch adjustment. You should engage your PTO at idle with the clutch depressed. Release the clutch then bring the engine up to PTO speed.

I don't know of a UV dye. I put John Deere hydraulic fluid dye into my Kubota (HST) hydraulic fluid. It sure makes it easier to see in the sight glass.

It is my understanding you are supposed to avoid spraying starter fluid into a diesel engine. Diesel engines fire on compression and can fire too early on starter fluid potentially ruining the engine.

Go back to your most recent repair. Clean both battery terminals and associated connectors. Replace both connectors on the battery and tighten securely. If you can wiggle or turn them they are not secure. Clean and tighten where cable attaches to frame. What kind of repair did you do? Did...

By the time the tractor gets up to idle speed the light is out - about like a car.

The brand of your glow plugs can be instrumental in learning the exact voltage. Most NGK plugs take 10.5 volts. The older tractors used a dropping resistor in a kind of indicator on the dash. The terminals would corrode further dropping the voltage. If you have one of these you can try...

Generally these are a small motorcycle or lawn tractor type battery. Three years would probably be considered a good life span. I do not recommend a regular charger. It can source too much current and boil the battery dry.

If the hydraulic lines are leaking the big question is why? They are not a big deal to tighten or replace but this is maintenance a concerned owner should be on top of. Are the leaks actually the hydraulic lines or the hydraulic cylinders which may need new seals or replacements? Why did the...

My L2501 has the ag tires (I think they're called). The rims have the capability of being set for three different widths, widening the stance. Of course being 25 hp it does not regenerate. It uses the same front loader as the L3901 as I think it's the same frame, just a bit less power. If...

All the cables should be tightened about the same amount. This would require the purchase of a cable tensiometer. Since the cables will stretch a bit over time you may even want to recheck the tension from time to time. I don't know what they normally go for but I found one on Amazon for $110...

I think you don't give enough information for a person to make an educated price guess. It appears the tractor was produced from 2003 to 2004 so it's about eighteen years old and should have a lot of life left. How many hours are on it? Overall condition? It should have plenty of power for...

Have you considered a trip to Augusta? Perhaps you could convince the factory (through a dealer, of course) to sell you the specific model you require. If it meets US emission requirements there should be no big hurdles to overcome.

I used a radiator hose when the air intake of my Mitsubishi failed. I purchased an L shaped hose which didn't quite line up so I altered the air cleaner mount.

Do you have any idea where your pump is physically located? How deep is the well? The fitting itself appears to be a simple "tee" fitting. They're pretty common. If you don't know what's where it may be best to call a pump guy to fix it. That's not the pump, it 's a fitting you could buy at...

Here in Washington all pole buildings must be designed or approved by a licensed mechanical engineer. In your case the input of a mechanical engineer would be a stellar idea.

I like my L2501 for the sheer simplicity - no added emission controls and enough weight to handle my five foot rotary mower. PTO power may be marginal for a mower that size and you may wish to up the power for that reason. I mow ten acres of desert weeds so power is not an issue.

If he's been running OEM shocks there are definitely better ones out there. Have him check in at Les Schwab or some place that does suspension work. If he can adjust his load for proper tongue weight he should have no problem on the frame hitch, though. Stabilizers can be had to equalize the...

You rotate the ring to free the balls to slide the unit together. Once together rotate the ring the other way to lock it. If there's a spring in it the spring may not be adequate the friction of the mechanism - based on my experience. I don't like putting oil where I know dust will be.

My first thought was whether you remembered to release the parking brake. My next thought was whether you have it in two gears at once somehow. Try moving your gear selector a bit.

When you replace the filter don't forget to smear a bit of oil on the seal. Inspect the sealing surface on the tractor. After filter contacts the base tighten an additional half to three quarters of a turn. There should be zero leakage.

When I don't plan to run small engines for a bit - like over winter, I'll either run them dry or empty the fuel tank and then try to start it to run the last fuel out of the lines. To prevent problems I run an ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil per gallon of fuel though I've had good luck with Sea...

If they can source seals pretty much any hydraulic shop should be able to rebuild it.

Okay, I was curious, I admit. Your hydraulic pump is far more common than mine was. You have many choices. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=hydraulic+pump+mt300d&_sacat=0

Try to rotate the engine manually with the PTO for the mower disengaged. Something could be jammed somewhere preventing the engine from rotating. Look around and under very carefully. Be sure everything is clear after visual inspection.

I had a Mitsubishi D2350 and had very good luck finding a hydraulic pump on eBay by typing the model and hydraulic pump. You can probably get more information and parts from Valley Power

Take the alternator to a starter / alternator repair shop. They can check it out. Depending on the way it's made it could need new brushes. It could also be a failed diode. Of course I won't rule out a failed voltage regulator either but your alternator output sounds low. Some automobile...

I can't give you a step by step method of testing but before going too far you should probably clean the battery terminal and the cable connections. Install and tighten them securely. If they'll rotate they're not secure. Follow the ground lead to the frame and clean and tighten there as...

I'm glad you got it fixed closer to your satisfaction but why did you have to replace two universals and a spline shaft? Was this a warranty thing? A recall perhaps?

I don't know the tractor age but it really doesn't matter on this one. Remove cables from battery. Clean battery terminals and inside of cable clamps. Replace on battery and tighten securely. If you can rotate them by hand they're not tight. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten...

Your writeup makes it sound like an injector issue. Perhaps one is sticking? Either that or you may have a fuel flow issue. Make sure you have good flow from the tank through the filter. Bleed the air out of the fuel system according to the operator manual. It's a diesel so if you get fuel...

Depending on how handy you are you may wish to investigate what it would take to adapt a Chevy one wire alternator. They have a built in voltage regulator. If you get the battery charging you then need to decide which gauges you want or need. I'd definitely look into the tach and hour meter...

The sensor is usually located (my experience) where the water will be hottest. This is near the thermostat on the way back to the radiator. Look near the top of your engine near the front - frequently (but not always) on the right (starboard?) side.

I'm not sure exactly what you've got. A three point hitch normally has two arms extending back from the tractor. They are attached to the tractor at one end which is free to pivot and raised by those two gray arms connected to them. The far end then connects to the desired implement. The...

The small chippers at the big box stores limit at about three inch stuff. If you get into bigger stuff and want a PTO chipper you're looking at about $3000 and the size of the chipper will be controlled by the PTO power of your tractor. A Vermeer 625 would probably be the cat's meow but I...

Oops, my bad - maybe. I've had very good luck with my European air rifles (Diana and Air Arms) and any scope failures have been covered by warranty. I won't say the airguns were perfect as received, I do tweak them a bit. In many ways the older ones were of superior quality, though. I do...

Yep, you're probably just old and cranky. You may be trying to save too much money by buying second or third tier Chinese products. I can address the air rifle better than the other devices. What air rifle did you buy? Chinese? I only buy European air rifles and current price for a new air...

I haven't seen it but in my case it doesn't matter. I use Kubota SUDT2. For that fluid I'd use it in older gear drive tractors which share the oil bath between transmission and hydraulics. These usually have dry brakes.

Check for stability of the steering column. If it's a bit free to move at the steering box end it may not be engaging properly.

Kubota has made some changes to their website. The USED to have a good selection of parts breakdowns with part numbers. I was surprised to learn it is no longer there.

You could ask the dealer or mechanic the physical locations of the components. The temperature sensor is usually near the top of the engine close to the thermostat. The oil pressure sensor can be just about anywhere.

Do as you will. I take my hoses to a local hydraulic shop and they duplicate them.

I don't think the clutch pedal IS working fine. I think it's riding the clutch causing slippage. Adjust it to the point where you have some free play on the pedal (perhaps an inch) before it actually starts to do anything. I think your slipping problem will disappear.

When I have that issue it's usually because I forgot to depress the clutch.

It sounds like varying DC or you have AC ripple on the line. If the battery is properly connected you should see no variation. Try cleaning battery terminals and insides of connectors. Tighten connectors securely. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten there as well. Rerun your...

You could start by ascertaining whether the tractor NEEDS overhauled. Did a piston seize? Is the head warped? If the engine will turn over by hand (with a wrench and socket) run a compression test to help evaluate engine condition. It MAY need overhauled but there may be less major things...

Your battery may not be the issue - though it could. Charge the battery. Clean the terminals and related connector surfaces. Replace the cables and tighten securely. If you can move it around by hand it's not secure. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten there as well. If...

If you bought the tractor new the vendor should be able to provide replacement manuals. I've not had any help from Troy-Bilt in the past on a pressure washer I purchased from one of the big box stores. Your mowing tractor was probably built by MTD,AYP,or whatever they're going by this year...

Given the symptoms I'd start by ensuring the air cleaner is clear and there are no obstructions between there and the intake manifold.

When you activate the starter does the engine turn over but not start? Or will it simply not turn over at all. If it will turn over but not start it's possible you've not moved the throttle. Many older tractors do not have a fuel shutoff solenoid. You must turn on the fuel if you want them...

You can easily replace the bushings with a bearing. I scored a set on eBay. That's four bearings.

Alcohol (methanol, isopropyl , or about any other variety) is unique in that it will bond with water molecules or petroleum. So, alcohol would bond with the water to help carry it out. You could try putting in a quantity of alcohol then add hydraulic fluid until you can run the system enough...