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So add a double diverter. This takes care of the additional sets of couplers that you need. A triple diverter is pictured on the tractor. Controls for the diverters would be on the factory rear remote lever. You would be able to control 3 separate functions without ever taking your hand from the...

Maybe get both of the factory rear remotes and then go with some diverters if you decide that you need more sets of couplers. I have one tractor with one factory rear remote with a triple diverter and my larger tractor has 3 factory rear remotes with a double diverter.

When you disconnect a hydraulic cylinder at the quick couplers, that cylinder is locked in place. You just need to be sure that the hoses are tied up and out of the way. Not only do the electric valves typically need some flow control, but these electric valves are known to have internal...

I agree with Piston. Adjust the sway links so that the Pat's QH ends are centered on the pins. This will then allow for some side-side movement.

You guys realize that Pat's quick hitch adds 3 3/4" to the length of the draft arms, right? So anything that you might be using for your std length draft arms-std 3pt hitch will not work very well if at all for the OP's circumstances. He should be looking for something a few inches longer than...

For your existing circumstances, the safest way to lower the implement is to turn the tractor off. Then use the lever to lower the implement down to the desired position.

The MX 5400 & MX 6000 are the only MX series tractors with a factory cab available.

It is the complete kit. Click on the link and read what it comes with.

With only 3 hours on it, my thinking is that the shifting linkage is messed up and that there is nothing wrong with the transmission at all. Get an idea for what the current owner will sell the tractor for. That alone will tell you if it is worth your time or not.

Go to every dealer that is within a comfortable driving range for you. Then start looking at those makes and models. All the various manufacturers make a good tractor these days. Check out the dealers to get a feeling for them. Based on that feeling, then consider a unit that they can provide...

Here is the kit. https://www.shopgreendealer.com/John-Deere-Rear-Hydraulic-Kit-LVB25743.html This is your best option IMO. ;)

Be careful about what you ask for. ;) You will get many & various answers. Some may not apply to your set of circumstances. Ideally for your application, you want longer side rails. 6' I would say. But good luck finding that. :rolleyes: I would be looking for side rail height of 18"or at least...

Yes I am still doing the Euro hook connections. I just have not had the time to get anything up on the website. 😞 Please fill out the contact page on my website. Make a note in the comment position regarding Euro hooks for the draft arms as well as the top link. I will email you a quote in the...

Yes, 2.2 for the cat 1-2 & cat 2 hooks While the top link takes a 2" ball, they only offer a full 2" width either in a 1" or 3/4" pin size. So if you have a narrow (under 2") cat 1 top link mount on an implement, the ball needs to be machined down for width. This is my supplier. Top Link...

This is what the 3 most common sizes start out like. Then you cut off the existing ball swivel on either the fixed draft arm or on an extendable end. Does not matter, it works with both types of ends. In other parts of the world these are available from the factories as either std or optional...

Look at the loader control valve. Follow those lines back to where they connect on the tractor. Hopefully you can determine which line is what by where it connects to. I'm sorry I can't help more, but without having the tractor in front of me, that's about all I can do. Maybe ask over at...

According to JD literature, the 4066R loses about 14HP to the PTO. But then even the shuttle loses about 13hp to the PTO. So I'm not sure that is really that much to give up to have the HST convenience. Your call, but you might want to at least look at the Kubota Grand L models. Their HST trans...

I guess what I'm thinking is that if you were to get a rear blade that can reach over 4 feet from the edge of the tractor, would it not be waaaay faster to just drive along pulling the ditch clean and then scooping up all of that material and disposing of it as you prefer? :unsure: Just a thought.

Contact WR Long 252-823-4570. If they can help, and they should be able to, they built the kit, they will help. :)

The kit should tell-show you, if it does not, contact RW Long, they should know.

Can you please post a few pictures of your roadway and ditches? Without pictures, everyone is just guessing. You know what is commonly said, "A picture is worth a thousand words." Letting us know what tractors you have would also help in recommendations. ;)

Not only does filling the front tires get you better traction, they also hold a load better when using a loader, and I agree with the better ride when tires are filled. (y)(y)(y)(y) I have a 75 hp and a 32hp with all 4 tires filled on each machine. I also had used both machines with no...

Allen, there is a good reason for my tractor to be the way that it is as you now know firsthand. Double the recommended weights, front & rear as well as all 4 tires being filled and handles extremely well. With the weight it handles like the next larger frame size, is better all around for my...

Sounds like weak solenoids to me. Contact WR Long. https://www.wrlonginc.com/

With your tractor, I would get the 6 footer without hesitation. You can always just cut 5 foot after the first pass. But you can NEVER cut 6 foot with a 5 footer. ;)

I will say this, the Land Plane grading scraper cut my road maintenance time by more than half over my box blades. Of these 4 implements, they range from 800-1400lbs and from 60"-84" in width. My road is over 1 1/4 mile in length and a half mile of that is shared with 4 neighbors. The...

You can always order a T&T set from Fit Rite Hydraulics. Custom built for your Kioti. Or Michigan Iron used to have them.

His hint is to get a manual self-leveling loader which there are none for your tractor. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=JD+2032R+with+self+leveling+loader#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:45b92a95,vid:Cuz80jbxcTg,st:112 Look at the video, look at the actual loader arms. I prefer the...

Something like this. These have become common behind BIG disks that I have seen at the AG shows. And a 9' disk with 22" notched pans would be a good match for your tractor IMO.

Everyone does not have fabrication abilities and or the machinery to do these things even if they happen to know how to use the machinery to build the different mounts. But you are correct, many kits have items that you pay for that are worthless for a particular set of circumstances. That's...

It is an option, no doubt.

Yes, the power beyond port at the loader valve feeds the rear remote valves. The power beyond port of the rear remotes goes down and connects at the hydraulic block where the loader power beyond previously was connected. The return to tank lines are teed together at the hydraulic block under the...

I'm fairly sure that Kubota no longer offers any rear remotes for your model. None of the 3rd party suppliers have the valves all nice and tucked away like the factory sets usually are. The valves are going to be exposed, typically above the fender. So you can purchase from a 3rd party such as...

To clarify, rear remote or loader 3rd function?

Changes are only obvious to a person who knows that there are changes and what those changes are. You don't know what you don't know.

Since the L3902s did not come out until 2022, I am assuming that your decals indicate that you have an L3902, I think some type of fraud has taken place. :oops: Definitely something to question the dealer about.

As has been mentioned, use the top pin location on the spear and the lowest pin location on the tractor side. I would think that that would get you at least another foot of height at the end of the bail. Also not knowing what all you do with the tractor, but from just using it for bales, I...

Do yourself a huge favor, READ YOUR OPERATORS MANUAL. It answers a lot of the questions that you have asked. And then after you have read it, READ it again. You can thank me later. ;)

That is the same as what I recommend. So at least your top link will have the optimum working range. (y) You will still need to grind down the tractor end ball swivel width. Std cat 1 ends are 1 3/4" wide. The B series tractors take a 1 9/16" wide ball swivel. Not that big of a deal, but it...

Ideally a cat-1-2 with a 2 1/2" dia cylinder and a 1 1/2" dia rod with a working length of 23 1/4"- 35 1/4" has worked well for the cat 1-2 & MX series tractors that I supply top & tilt sets or just top links for. There is no good reason for anything longer than 36" other than if you are using...

A 4" stroke is perfect if the unit is built right and provides an equal amount of tilt angle to both sides and has the correct angles for the clevises on each end. Very few if any off the shelf units are though. Curious as to what Summit has recommended for the top link over all working range...

When you get around to adding the additional rear remote outlets, a double or triple set of diverters will work well for you similar to those pictured.

Sort of depends on what you will be using the valves for. Is there a specific use for these, or just to have sort of thing? I personally would have the first valve the double acting and the 2nd valve with the float feature, but that is just me. If you don't have anything specific in mind...

A set of flow restrictors usually takes care of the shuttering issue.

A 24" & 30" hose should work well for your LS XR4145. Use 90* adaptor fittings at the cylinder ports.

Your 3pt hitch will always float up unless in the fully raised position. Having the position control lever in the fully lowered position allows the hitch to go as low as it can is all. All the slot does is allow the mower to rock forward or backwards. How much depends on how you have the top...

Maybe I just can't see it, but you do not have to use the top slot, just use it where it is pinned in the picture. I'm not sure that I would even want the mower moving forward or backward on its own anyway. :unsure: Think about what the mower actually does if-when it tilts backward and if you...

The issue with basing your operating range on the OEM manual top link is that about 50% of the top links provided by the OEM are WRONG. There are tractor manufacturers that provide top links that provide zero to maybe at best 1" of forward tilt with some of their models. Now if a person were to...

I think that you will find that the 18"-26" unit will serve you better. I typically provide an 18"-25" unit with my top & tilt sets.

Maybe one of these? https://www.agristoreusa.com/collections/seats

Why would you say that they are the same? Yes the same diameter and rod size, but the ends are completely different as are the strokes. If you would like a total top & tilt quote, please go to the following link and fill out the contact page. https://fitritehydraulics.com/contact.html

No, you can't get it fast. One of the 3. Again, good luck in your search. (y)

You know what they say, you can have any two, good, cheap or fast. But you won't get all 3. Good luck in your search. ;)

Std cat 1 ball swivels are 1 3/4" wide. The ball swivels that Kioti uses on that model are only like 1 1/2" wide. A 1 3/4" wide ball swivel does not fit into the top link mount on the tractor.

Look at this link. Get the asked for pin-pin dimension. That dimension should be very close to what the top link is when halfway extended. That 11" stroke is going to be waaaaay long for your application. Keep in mind that you also will need to grind down the base-tractor end for width.

How about trying to simply hold the implement up with the 3pt? Set it on the ground, then raise the hitch until there is no weight pushing down, but the blades are at ground level. Worth a try. ;)

While poppet and ball styles are typically interchangeable, they are just what they are, one has a ball that makes the seal when closed and the other has a poppet that makes the seal. They are not the same.

Yes your couplers are 1/2" ISO 5675 poppet style Ag-type couplers. There really is no need to exceed R17 hose capabilities for these tractors. R17 has a working pressure in excess of 3000psi and over a 12,000psi bursting pressure. I have been providing R17 hoses for over 10 years without issue...

I recommend 3/8" hose. Pretty much every top & side link supplier that build these units provide-recommend 3/8" hose.

I absolutely agree that the high volume doesn't mean good quality, no questions about that IMO.

Really? About 60 million people, or one in five Americans, live in rural America. The term “rural” means different things to different people. For many, it evokes images of farmlands and pastoral landscapes. For our purposes, we define rural based on the official Census Bureau classification...

The sides on my 7 foot LPGS are 22" tall and 8' long. With the right moisture content (perfect for packing down) the DG (decomposed granite) that my road is made of clearly does not just flow over the cutting edges. But as shown, piles up and carries more than a cubic yard of material to be...

Many people wonder why they would want a hydraulic side link.:unsure: My answer is that if you will be doing much grading at all, having a hydraulic side link will make getting the grade that you want that much easier and faster to achieve. If you need to ditch alongside your road, put a crown...

For those of you who think that you just drop a LPGS and pull, well good luck to you. While that works, it does not work the best, changing the top link length just ever so slightly can make a HUGE difference. Having "just the right moisture content" is very helpful, but not always convenient if...

All I can say is that I have 4 different implements that I can use on my over mile long drive. A half mile is shared with 4 neighbors and often has wash boarding. I have what I consider above-average operator skills. All of these implements range from 800lb - 1400lbs. For general road...

Look at this link, get the asked for dimension, find a unit that has the asked for dimension at mid-stroke plus or minus a bit is fine. THAT is typically the best way to determine what working length will work best for your conditions. People go on about checking the collapsed and extended...

I recommend a cat 1 top link built with a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod with a working length of 21"-31". Your tractor has a cat 1 3pt hitch, not sure why you would even be considering a cat 2 unit? :unsure: The most common cat 1 top links are 2" dia cylinders with either 1 1/8"- 1...

Pages 16 & 33 of your operator's manual.

Look at this link to determine what you should actually be looking for. Then find a cat 1-2 hydraulic top link with the best overall working length for your circumstances.

Unfortunately, it looks like none of these parts are listed out as far as what size anything is besides that everything is NA. Post in the Kioti section and hope that someone with this or similar model can check on their tractor and let you know. Otherwise, it looks like another trip for you. :(

Why, just use a quick coupler to match what you have and plug it into the existing loader couplers.

Yes, you can use the loader boom controls. You (should) disconnect both of the boom hoses. I would use the downside coupler to connect to. You then would use the down joystick movement to raise the unit. You would use the float feature to lower the single-acting cylinder that is on your sickle...

I have a 3 range and happy with it.(y) I'm asking because my older brother has considered getting a 2 range machine and I had never given it much thought. Thank you for the replies.

Question regarding the 2-speed hydro. Have you found that having only the 2 ranges has been negative in any way? Just curious. :unsure:

Ball couplers & poppet couplers are interchangeable. You have poppet couplers on your tractor.

He needs to get if he does not already have it, the hydraulic block that you need to add aux hydraulics. The cover plate needs to be removed and this flat hydraulic block goes on in place of the cover. What port is what is listed on the picture.

I agree, time can be a VERY big factor, just letting you know that the unit you need is not anything special for some (me) companies.

I can provide you a cat 1-2 top link built with a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod with a 19 1/4"- 27 1/4" working length. This has a cat 1 tractor end and a narrow (1 3/4") cat 2 rod end with a floating cat 1 reducer bushing. Unfortunately, I am currently backed up a minimum of 22...

The easiest thing is an on-off valve at the coupler. These can be manual or electric. Or an actual check valve mounted on the cylinder itself. Just to be absolutely clear, the issues are with the cylinders on the mower, not top & tilt cylinders on the 3pt hitch? The electric valve setup is...

As far as all 3 valves acting the same, if they are all built to the same specs which you would assume that they are, then yes I would expect all of them to have the same characteristics. First off, does it leak down fast enough that you need to constantly be readjusting the cylinder? As in...

Check out WR Long

The issue with the LS rear remotes is that they use monoblock valves. So the double valve set that is on the tractor gets removed and a completely new 3-valve monoblock is installed. Thus the exceedingly high cost to simply add the factory 3rd valve after the machine is off the assembly line...

Just keep in mind that it seems like most of the economy control valves have internal leakage issues and those issues are not warranted, they are considered "within spec". So if you want to go the economy route, expect issues. This is what you are looking at when you consider these valves. The...

No part number, I build and sell the valve sets, typically with top & tilt sets.

So you would be looking at the first type of mount that I had posted.

If you don't have a backhoe, this is what I would typically provide for the 1533.

I recommend that both ports have the orifice fittings. I know that just 1 on the rod end is supposed to do the job, but too many times in the past it has taken 2 to do the job right. So 2 it is from me each and every time. Now I build the orifice into the actual port adaptor fittings so that no...

Both actually. The orifice fittings are only in #6 oring boss-M/#6 JIC-M in straight or 45s or 90s. The check valve for 3/8 British ports, #6 oring boss ports, and I have adaptors for #8 oring boss ports which raises the check valve higher off the cylinder ports. The fittings that I have for...

I doubt that you will find a double pilot operated check valve that will go onto your cylinder like the typical off-the-shelf top link units have as pictured in post #4. Those take 3/8" British pipe thread and your ports are most likely #6 oring boss. I recommend putting .031 orifice fittings on...

I offer 2 different kits for Grand L cat 1-2 tractors. One set without check valves, one set with check valves. I doubt that you can find anything any better anywhere. Fill out the contact page if you are interested.

So they had something that matches? :unsure: For the OP, your current hyd top link is a bit on the small side for the capabilities of your tractor. The hitch has lift capabilities in excess of 6600lbs, you should really have a 3" dia cylinder IMO. Good luck with what you have. ;)

If you can, sit on everyone that you are considering. Ergonomics are a huge factor in not getting warn out while using the machine. Maybe look at Summit Tractors. They are supposed to be fairly well-equipped even with the base model. Good luck with your search.

For your current application, measure the outside of your female coupler. Most likely 1 1/2". So you have ISO 5675 poppet-type couplers. Do yourself a favor and get a set of connect under pressure couplers for your attachment hoses...

Yes, in the float position. (vertical) This allows the mower to better follow the terrain, instead of the tractor vs leaving spots not mowed to the same height. The more you use the feature and stop and actually think about what's happening, the more you will use it. But for actually cutting...

.031" for a 2" cylinder. .045" for a 2 1/2" cylinder and .060" for a 3" dia cylinder typically work well.

The OP is talking about the draft arms at the side link connections. Not that the pictures are exactly like his, but they serve the same purpose. The slots allow for the implement to move up-down on the left-right independently of each other. To have the implement locked in place like a std set...

I have no idea what you paid for it, but probably best to just return it. Get yourself a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod, 4" stroke (tube type) cut the ends off and build what you need from there.

I have no issues with saying what is wrong with the unit that you have purchased. The ball swivel end for sure has to be changed. Maybe the lower clevis will work, I don't have the specs of the unit that you bought, so simply don't know. My recommendation would be to take the stationary (left...

I'm curious,:unsure: are you planning on reworking the cylinder pictured? Because the pictured cylinder is not going to work for your application as it is pictured. I typically supply 3/8" hoses for your application, but 1/4" is fine. Not sure that 24" hoses are going to allow for the full...

My guess is that you have not looked at the actual RBT series rear blades, and even they vary as you move up in the rating sizes. I agree with you as far as all of the non "TRUE" heavy duty implements. But to me, that pretty much holds true for most of the different manufacturers. Thanks for...

So, you don't care for the RBT series rear blades that Land Pride offers? I am curious as to what it is that you don't like about them? :unsure: And just like all the other manufacturers of these types of blades, you go up a series and everything gets heavier. While you are looking, make a...

Typically the existing extendable links get the ball swivel ends cut off and the Euro hooks welded on. Yes I can-do build the hydraulic top links with the Euro hook, similar to the one previously pictured.

While matching your current manual top link is very common and that process works about half the time, it is not the ideal way to figure out what will work best for your application. Look at the following link, get the asked-for dimension, and find a hydraulic unit that is close to that pin-pin...

This is the exact reason not to match the OEM link. 50% of the time the OEM top links are wrong for the tractor that they are on. It is always best to match your conditions, not what the factory provides. Again, good luck with the alteration.

Be sure that the rod is extended when working on the end. Grind a good-sized bevel when prepping the ends. Protect the chrome from any splatter. Cool the rod starting up next to the seal and slowly cool. Good luck. (y)

Sooooo, you are only considering used? Because I'm fairly sure that none are made on the west coast. The point is that they all are getting shipped from somewhere not local. Again, if you don't ask them, you simply will not know and you can assume anything. Until you actually check, you won't...

You won't know without asking. Everything that I have read from people out west, yes including Washington is that they are very reasonable even with the additional shipping costs. I don't believe that it costs anything to get a quote for exactly what you want other than your time. :unsure:

Try Everything Attachments, and they will ship out west very reasonable.

If you are talking to me, I linked to a hydraulic rear blade. Why you thought that I was suggesting a box blade only you know. :unsure: The OP has a 5' rear blade that I can assure you is a lightweight implement. With an 8'-9' rear blade that weighs 1000lbs or more and has offset capabilities...

One of these would make short work of those ditches.

Sorry, but I no longer build the cylinders for the Gannon box blades.

Flow restrictors should eliminate this issue. I recommend putting them on both ports. A 2" cylinder, would get .031 restrictors.

Just a suggestion. Try looking at the implement instead of the top link cylinder. In reality, it really does not matter where the rod is, everything is related to the implement and the ground.

You would think that they should use the same couplers on both the open station and cab models as they used to do with the B3030 models. (y)

Maybe something similar to what is pictured? Should fit with the hoe. It would be relatively easy to install and yes you can use your backhoe supply lines as the supply source and return for the new valve set.

Here, but nothing is on the shelf. All orders are built per order.

I don't think that you are going to find that. I know that for me, that is impossible to make with std parts. We're back to, well, good luck. :rolleyes:

I would have normally said a 19"-27" working length. The quick hitch does not affect what length you get. Ideally, you would check all your implements and then take an average. But if you are trying to get this ahead of time, well we're back to good luck. :)

Look at this link, get the asked-for dimension and that dimension should be what you are looking for with the rod halfway extended + or - 1/2" inch or so. I normally would recommend a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod for this model. Good luck finding what you want-need. :)

So use 2 wire hose. They have the same bend radius of 3.94". The 1 wire hose is .52" in dia and the 2 wire hose is .57". Is the .05" going to make a difference for your application? Just a thought. If it won't work, it won't work.

Just use these. I did every hose on my dozer with these years ago, ZERO ISSUES.

If you look at the 3 responses that the OP has made, his issue with the transmission and blade are with his D5 Cat. I have no doubt that he has moved on to another forum. I doubt that there will be very many if any responses that help him from TBN. The OP made 3 posts in 2 threads in 29 minutes...

Based on his avatar, it is a 6-way dozer blade on his D5 Cat.:oops: If it is, it is different than what we typically think of when we talk about 6-way blades on this forum.

It has it's place. Gordon Gould built a unit himself and added a rear panel. See the thread here. Post #45 I think is where it is first shown. I have made up all the parts to add one for my larger LPGS, but have not had the time to install it. 😞

There are numerous options. You could see just how many fittings can a person use? :rolleyes: You can figure out the absolute cheapest way to go as well as finding out what supplier is going to provide each and every piece at the cheapest rate. Or if your time is worth about anything to you...

Use these at the valve port. Use std 90s on the hose for the short side. Use long 90s for the long side requirements.

Typically I would recommend a cat 1 top link built with a 2 1/2" dia cylinder and a 10" stroke having a 21"-31" working length for this model. Similar to the unit on the left in the picture.

The correct top & tilt set for an MX and one for the L3302 are 2 very different animals. While the MX will physically go on the tractor, the working lengths of the MX cat 1-2 top link @ 23 1/4"- 35 1/4" vs an L model cat 1 top link with a working length of 20"-29" and the MX side link with a...

Here is what I recommend for the Kubota L3302. 2" cylinders with 1 1/4" dia rods similar to those pictured. A cat 1 top link with a working length of 20"-29". A side link built to provide an equal amount of tilt angle to the left and right and still maintain stock 3pt hitch lift height. The...

Something else that many forget about or just don't consider, TIME. We are not all retired and getting any certain task done in a leisurely time frame is not always convenient. Sure a smaller tractor can get things done most of the time, but how much time is required vs a larger tractor? And...

Hands down the L5240. Way more machine and guessing for the same or less money? 🤔 Pictures shows a customer's L6060 that had a single rear remote and needed 3 sets. He purchased a double diverter set to get the 3 sets that he needed. This are all usable without every taking his hand off of the...

There is a very easy way to find out, simply move the top link to each of the pin locations and raise the hitch and measure. Might take you 5-6 minutes to find out for sure vs everyone's guessing. Typically the top hole allows the implement to be raised basically level, or however it is...

3" dia with a 1 1/2" dia rod having a working length of 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" similar to the unit on the left that is pictured is what I typically provide and not had a single complaint. This is the correct working length. I apologize for listing the longer length previously, that was-is for the...

Double check the wrench size, should be 7/8" Check your PM please.

Richard, do you know what port size you have on the top link? Let me know and I should be able to figure something out.

Are you talking about a DPOCV? (check valve)

Do the following test. This will tell you for sure if it is the cylinders or the valves. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/cylindertest.html If it is the cylinders, they are under warranty. If it is the valves, there are solutions for that also. Let me know. ;)

If possible, check to see if you can find one with a 2 1/2" dia cylinder and maybe even a 1 1/2" dia rod. This would be ideal. I've seen my share of 2" units on these size tractors not hold up. :oops: Just an FYI.

The first unit sounds like a self canceling valve. You put the valve in the detent position at either end. The rod goes to the end of it's stroke and then kicks out and into the center-closed position. Stay out of the detent positions and the valve acts like a std spring return to center valve...

Such as the one used in the photo. This customer had a single rear remote and needed 3 sets of couplers. A double diverter took care of his needs. :cool:(y)

A vary common setup requiring 4 rear remotes would be a top & tilt set with a hydraulic rear blade that has blade angle and offset as hydraulic features. You can only see the blade angle cylinder, but the boom offset cylinder is on the other side. All these hydraulic options are not for...

Look at this link, get the asked for dimension. Find a top link that is close to that dimension when the rod is extended half way. This will provide an equal amount of tilt forward-rearward. If you want more one way or the other, make adjustments in what you are looking for. Good luck. :)

Look at this link. Get the asked for dimension and look for a top link that is close to that dimension when half way extended. Good luck. :)

I'm fairly certain that there is no OEM T&T option. But things change and maybe I'm wrong. I'm not familiar enough with any of those models to say if the rear remote valves have options such as detent, or float or self canceling detent. They might all be 3 position spring return to center type...

For your application, I would just let the cylinder bottom out each direction. That's how all the hydraulic rear blades are, there are no external stops.

I think that the OP wants what is suppose to be a std no cost option for the tractor that he wants to get. There are all kinds of options if you want to pay additional $$$$ which most people seem to prefer not to do.

You are correct, 1 piece R4 rims as you have pictured cannot be turned. The OP has a picture of R4s on 2 piece adjustable rims on the tractor that he wants. His posted picture is an OEM brochure picture with factory supplied tires and wheels. The 2 piece R4 rims are common on full sized utility...

The working length that I normally recommend for the Kioti CK10 series tractors is 18"-25". I think that the 18"-26" unit would suit you well. (y)

Exactly, it is so quick and easy, that your drive never even gets bad. At first sign of needing repairs you go do it, because it only takes a small amount of time, not a half or full day to make everything good again.

I am only going to make a few comments, whatever you decide to get (landplane grading scraper IMO) don't even bother with anything less than 1000lbs. Weight is your friend when it comes to this type of work, heavier is better. (y)(y) If your tractor has draft control, learn how to use it and...

Are your tires loaded, if not, load all 4. Wheel weights, add as many as you confortably can? If you do not have this ballast, adding all of this ballast type of weight should add around 2000lbs to the tractor. My experience with both a 75 hp and 32 hp tractors has been like stepping up a...

With the LS side link, you will not be looking for the complete unit as you have pictured, just the part that is below the lower pivot point as I have pictured. I don't think that you will find a hydraulic top link to match what your manual top link is. I recommend that you look at the following...

Exactly. CK10 series links are very short. There is not a lot of adjustment even with the manual adjustable link.

To build the side link to be able to adjust an equal amount to the left & right sides like the OEM adjustable link and maintain the OEM lift heights, you need a 3" stroke cylinder.

Get a valve with the float feature. Use the float feature to lower the mast. This way you still have the use of the valve for other applications.

Thank you for your response. Answers some questions. I believe that my Gannon roll over is a bit light at 980lbs, but at 81" in width, 22" tall moldboard it was the largest one that they built back in 2005 and works fine for my use. Also I believe the last unit of that size that they built...

Piston, just curious, why did you hate the roll over? Not heavy enough, didn't like having to pull the lever for the scarifiers, or???? Again, just curious. No Big Deal

So no matter what this set weighs and no matter that they sink into the ground well over 12", as long as the angle is set straight pretty much any tractor can pull these? :unsure:

I'm hoping to have a few things changed on the website concerning the Euro hooks in January of 2023. Listed for the main thing. Typically the Euro draft link hooks are a week lead time and 2 week lead times if-when the customer has me do the fabrication.

A few pictures of your rake would really help. There are various designs for this stuff. It sounds like you have a short boom if you are looking at using the 3pt hitch mount as a base mount for the rake angle cylinder mount. A std clevis end welded cylinder with a 10" stroke is 20 1/4"- 30...

Typically most off the shelf cylinders are rated for 3000PSI. I personally only use and recommend welded cylinders. I am not a fan of tie rod cylinders. Most of the utility tractors are set up around 2500PSI plus or minus. I recommend a 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod for this application...

Just look at a rear blade with hydraulics. That gives you an idea of what to do.

Typically for this type of application, a 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod is what I would recommend. Without actually laying it all out on the implement, probably a 10", 12", or 14" stroke unit. The longer the stroke, the easier it is to make fine smooth adjustments.

It's not really a good idea to do business here. Please fill out the Fit Rite contact page and we can go from there. http://fitritehydraulics.com/contact.html Thanks

So you need some of these. For your tractor you could go with either the straight cat 1 hooks or the cat 1-2 hooks. Then it is also nice to have a top link to go along with the lower hooks. Like ptsg mentioned, you can do the fabrication, or ship the extendable ends to me for fabrication.

Std balls work also, typically for captured pins though. Half the price at $11 a pair plus shipping.

$22 a set (2) plus shipping. How many do you want-need? These are for 2 3/16 dia balls. I have them for straight cat 1 hooks also, but I'm guessing that your hooks are the cat 1-2 sized hooks. :unsure: The straight cat 1 balls are just under 1 3/4" dia.

I think that I would very seriously look into that before moving forward. It very well could be a game changer, as in how you approach getting everything done that you want to get done-do on the property. Good luck. (y)

I have a question for you. Have you gotten any dozer work estimates? When you get the estimate, and it is only an estimate, not etched in stone, your whole plan may change. :unsure: I know for me personally, 20 years ago what the dozer guy wanted bought ALL of my equipment, and I'm not talking...

First thing, if you are actually going to be cleaning up - clearing vegetation, get the factory 3rd function for the loader. You will really appreciate it once you get the much needed grapple vs using a rear remote for the grapple. Get the 3rd rear remote kit I don't know if I would want any of...

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Some people have both, the best of both worlds. Like Lou mentioned though, the extending capabilities are not really needed when you have the Euro hooks. ;)

The hitch has float, but that is for both arms connected together. Having float for the side link allows the left & right sides to float independently which simply increases your tractors capabilities. Same goes for having float for the top link, there are certain tasks that benefit from these...

A few things to consider. Are you sure you want electric valves for a T&T setup? They absolutely are not a preferred method for controlling any cylinder that may need very fine adjustments. You need to be able to feather the controls for ideal control. There are many benefits to having the...

It is not an off the shelf unit, it is-was made specifically for that purpose, both internally as well as externally. That's not to say that something can't be adapted to get by, but it will not be like the unit that is supposed to be there and may cause other issues.

All I'm going to say any further is that you should be sure of when you purchase whatever it ends up being that the supplier will stand behind the product when-if there are issues. Some of these places DO NOT. Good luck with the project.

What is it that you want to do, and for what purpose? Why not just use manual valves? :unsure:

Maybe here? https://www.hydraulicstore.com/hydraulic/valves/directional-control-valves/electrically-controlled/d03-solenoid-operated-directional-control-valves

So you have an external leak. You need to remove the controls so that you can see and isolate exactly where the leak is. I'm assuming that you have a monoblock valve. Go to this link and the supplier can get you a replacement part or new valve if that is what is required.

Fixed cutting edges on both of mine also, never needed adjustable ones or scarifiers for that matter.

You just need to order one. https://aermotorwindmill.com/collections/windmills

If you live 2000 miles away, you only pay for the last 1000 miles. You do not pay for a 2000 mile delivery. I've known of people up in Washington state and only paying a few hundred dollars to get their implements. EA ships a lot of items, I'm sure that they get VERY GOOD RATES and it seems...

We have a 12' unit on a 27' tower, pump is set at 180'. This keeps a 10,000 gallon storage tank full and has supplied all the water we have needed for 22 years.

They are like an economy brand. Less than 100lbs per foot width and look at how they are built. Nothing that I would want to use behind your TC 40.

Fit Rite Hydraulics, go to the contact page to get a current quote and lead time.

It's a little more difficult when the proper cylinder to be used is an odd stroke such as a 3",5", 7", 9", or 11" stroke. Yes it can be done with the even stroke lengths readily available, but that does not always get the optimum working length desired. It's not that big of a deal when the...

I am guessing that Fit Rite will be the only place to get one? And even then I do not have the dimensions for it, you would need to get the required dimensions so that I can build it to fit right. If you would like to proceed, please fill out the contact page on the Fit Rite Hydraulics website.

I don't think that for what Eddie does it will make much difference. I know that I have operated my tractor with the same amount of air at 100* & at 8*. Just a little softer at 8*. But then I'm not doing the same tasks at those extremes either. YMMV.

Regarding the valve stems. When you have rims that can be turned depending on how a person wants-sets the tire width, the valve stems may or may not be on the inside or outside. Just how that is. Does it really make a difference? In the last 16 years I have needed to put air in my tires 4-5...

In the 12 years that I have been selling Bucher valves, not a single leak down issue that I have been made aware of. Bucher valves can be purchased from me, or directly from my supplier. You would need 17 GPM valves for your application.

Horizontal

I believe that most manufacturers recommend that the back drag angle be 15* or less. Your loader manual should have something shown about these types of things.

It's only "slick" if you do not have or use the float feature with your T&T cylinders. Most people that make use of the float feature with their T&T cylinders would not be without it, so there are other work arounds. For those people that do not have or make use of the float feature, it is...

Look at this link, do the tests and you will know for sure.

If it were an issue, I would not have recommended doing it. ;)

Forget about using the curl mode, use the up-down mode.

As far as having them list on the website when they are in stock, no. I don't even have them listed on the website. simply not enough time to do everything and the Euro hooks are way down the list as far as getting info about them on the website. As far as the slots for the extendable draft...

They should be 1/2". Measure the female OD. 1 1/2"= 1/2" QD. 1 5/16" = 3/8" QD. Both ISO 5675

Typically it is either me (Fit Rite Hydraulics) or Agristore USA. AMA is based in Europe and is where these parts come from for both of us. We are both out of the cat 1-2 Euro hook ends. 😞 Hopefully we both will have parts in later next month. Agristore sells the parts only, I will do the...

Several issues with the Pat's system, they do not allow smooth articulation of the implements. Meaning when you tilt the implement side-side, the implement pin rides up on the edge of the Pat's hooks where as with the Euro hooks, there is a ball on the implement pin and it rotates and has 100%...