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You eouldnt happen to have more information on what I need fo ya? For the power, I use it mostly for puttong stuff, chicken tractor, downed trees, and mowing. I put shorter tires (L3 trenchers) on it to regain some torque which has worked wonderfully. I very rarely go over a slow walking...

Im more than willing to return it. I do like a single wire setup though. Dont have a lot of time for this project.

The one I found just now is the "Kubota #B7324 40 Amp High Capacity Alternator Kit." Gonna look it up now. Update. I looked it up. Looks like a lot of freaking work to put in. I was annoyed with just a bracket.

Well, to avoid necrothreading Ive made a new post aboit this. I know there was a similar post about 5-8 years ago, but I can't find it. My 2004 kubota B7500 dyno has finally bit the dust. 20 years and 1600 hours later - not bad if you ask me. But now I need a new one. Ive seen 10si...

Ha, it's for when Im using the moonraker.

But there's a possibility to use laser beams!!

That kind of speed is hard to get via GPS without some seriously expensive equiptment. Something touching the ground is the best way or maybe... Laser beams! When you see the tire of a tractor at 0.1mph moving, it's painfully slow. The front tire is at probably about 0.04rpm if it's a 46" tire.

I didn't know if this tractor fell into the ag catagory that runs 30k hours. But I'll pass if it's in the utility catagory where 10k hours is about it.

How good is this tractor? It has 8900hrs, got a new transmission 1000hrs ago along with a rebuilt engine. The main articulation point has been replaced at the same time. It's got the loader and cab end 3pt. The guy offered it to me for 27.5k. No other problems that I know of.

That's true. I've seen several versions now. The three most common I've seen are 1mph, 1.7mph, and just over 2mph at 2krpm. I suppose it could actually be 0.05mph. That M9960 I had did have a creeper gear and did about 0.13ish mph at 2krpm. On smaller tires, that could be less for sure. The...

I got ya. I didn't know those TLBs had a 3pt/pto.

I had chatgpt do the math. From a 71" tire to a 51", 1mph drops to about 0.75mph. I have to see what the height is on a standard M5 v LP to get the right calculation.

It seems like so many posts on here get derailed by a few people. Does anyone have input back on the initial post?

Ok

I had to take you off ignore to see this. They didn't have counter weights. Just ballasted duals and scrapers.

I don't "feel" anything about tasks - I do not let my emotions dictate my tasks. The aforementioned is a task that must be completed. The LP version is capable of steeper angles than a regular version. Ballasted duals or spacers on singles should get me closer to where I need to be. The...

I understand that. The tractor would pull the blade fine in a non creeper gear, but the stability of the tractor on such a slope at higher speeds is questionable. So, I'm using it for it's slow and stable speed rather than brute pulling strength.

Ha, it took you a minute to do that math before you made that snarky comment didn't it. Put yourself on a 35 degree slope, dragging an angled blade to make a walkable path. Hitting ruts, running over debris, and steering around trees. Now tell me if you want to be doing that at over 1mph...

OK, so not 0.05mph, but in the ball park. Tha k you for your worthwhile contribution to the discussion.

I had this same question. Here's how I answered it. Tractor with 3pt backhoe - it's still a tractor when the 3pt backhoe is off. Depending on the size of your tractor you can get a pretty stout backhoe. Backhoe - can't do anything other than loading and hoe-ing. It is not a tractor. But if I...

Someone is trying to sell me a M5-111 low profile with a 12spd transmission and I imagine a creeper gear set. They said they've been on the tractor and it does 0.05mph at 2000rpm. The tractor I returned, a M9960 12spd did 0.17mph at 2000rpm (1st gear and selector switch on the "snail")...

That's kinda what I thought too. But size for size it has more torque than a comparable kubota.

Where's that from?

There's actually a case 105a low profile for sale right now. But I haven't moved on it because I know nothing about case.

I think that Massey has the EPA double whammy. What do you like about them specifically?

That's kinda the problem. Where I am, anything that's sold is crazy high. Because I'm in such a rural area, anything in a 1.5hr circle is the same. Say the average price of a M5-095 is 45k on Tractorhouse.com. Locally 1.5hr circle it's be listed for $65k - which I have seen in tractors, dozer...

OK, so the last two tractors were a bust. The Kubota M105s had at least 6k hrs and was beaten to death. The next one I got was a kubota M9960. It was supposed to be a 2016 with 1400hrs but they sent me a 2012 with 4500hrs and a broken FEL mount! Unscrupulous dealers! So I'm on the hunt again...

Without the runoff entering your garden, how does it do by itself?

It's about 2 acres. That'd be all the leaves.

There's no gardening spot on here, so this seemed like the next best place. Tilling and gardening on a slope, as many have pointed out, is likely to cause runoff of soil. How can this be mitigated? I run a hiller in my gardens and my plan was to run the hills at a diagonal on the slope. The...

That's not a bad idea, but once that 8ft mark happens there's not really any tillers that seem to be "cheap" options. For the Slope area, I have the options of some angle or lots of angle. The little bit of flat area I have is reserved for some buildings.

That's actually really funny. I've done things like that before and laughed when I got the visual.

The tillable area I'm looking to do is closer to 10 to 18 degrees. Other areas I have to drive are definitely in the 35 degree range. Hence the tires set wide. Eventually I'll be changing tire size to 50" high x 30" wide with the proper lead/lag in the from from the current 61" X 18.4". That'll...

I've always wondered what a 100lb delta boat anchor would do for a winch point. Even if it was used on the hitch of the recovery vehicle just aft of the vehicle then the winch did the work.

I've only seen raw bar hp on large tractors. Never seen it on the smaller ones, which means there's a space for data to be collected. For instance, I've never seen a drawbar hp rating on my M9960 nor on my B7500. Thus, I think it's a worthwhile endeavor to find out the pulling force of these...

Then don't post.

I didn't know you could change the points of attachment on a drawbar except a little swing to the left or right and between the closer or outter hole in the bar itself in some models. What kind of tractor do you have that has verticle adjustments on the draw bar? I've seen older tractors with a...

That's true. Tie to a big tree and pull in a gear available in most tractors like 4H

Dude. This isn't for weighing diamonds or medicine. A 25k pull gauge that is accurate to about 50-100lbs won't run out of spec so fast as to invalidate results. Even if there were drift that caused the scale to have +/- 100lbs, it wouldn't make much difference in a 5k lb pull for this purpose.

Yes. That's true. And kinda the point. If you have 10 readings of an L6060, someone looking at an L6060 can say that's close to my setup, I'll get about that much pull given X conditions. Eventually, there will be enough readings where a good picture of the tractor and various setups will emerge.

It'd be pulls in each gear of your tractor.

Agreed to both points. A description of dirt could accompany each measurement.

Check the lead lag ratio/RCI. If it's still within the acceptable percentage (1% to 5%), you should be fine. https://agtiretalk.com/ag-tire-size-conversions-options/

Has anyone hooked up a pull gauge to their drawbar to find out the actual pull? A TBN owned pull scale sent out to trusted people and tested in a standardized way would make a pretty neat spreadsheet on here for future generations.

Agreed. But that accident and the one with the kid that have a shackle rip his jaw off were both using nylon straps as far as I know and we're in the wrong spot. Dyneema doesn't do that and wire does it, but not greatly. Snatch blocks will increase the force to where it'll pull bolts out as long...

They didn't with mine. And in as fast a gear as I had, it didn't clear the tread. 2/3rd of my tire had sunk in as it slid down the side. And I have wide tires, about 2x wider than stock,

My dad has a number old tractors from that time frame. You're not kidding they don't break a sweat often. One of his little 20hp tractors weighs about the same as my 100hp tractor.

A lot of snatch blocks???

Hahahaha!!!!

I didn't know they made shifting ones in that size range. I imagine the first few times I'll be jumping off and putting the shale into the bucket a lot. Good point on the wear. I don't think the tractor is going to move at close to 10k lbs and 0.5mph at 540 pto.

That is a good point. Even if it takes me a week to make it perfect I can take that time then easy to redo.

What kinda tractor do you have?

There's also a chance I'll expand to the next property I buy and make a seriously big garden for my facility.

Yes and no. I have that garden site and another one that's smaller. I may do a food plot or two. And more than likely neighbors will ask. This is all unbroken ground. But then it will be done a few times yearly (preseason, post season, early winter for additives to settle prior to big freezes...

Snatch blocks?

I think I may have seen it. Reverse pulls down and puts rocks forward. Forward doesn't do those things, but is also cheaper and available in a wider track. I'd rather "have" a reverse, but I don't know that I need it. Tractor is about 9000lbs.

Box blades don't fluff soil. If I had a smaller tiller centered, I'd have bilateral tire tracks. I would never get the track out and that part would be compressed, slowing down root growth in that direction. So yes, it does matter. And yes it may have been tilled already, but recompressed by...

Can't pull tires in. The area I'm looking to do it's about 2 acres and is the flattest spot I've got at 10 to 15 degrees. I might offset and keep that side high.

I'm not sure what I NEED. What I want doesn't matter... Wide because it's steep. The last owners rolled their tractor, I want to lessen that chance. The ground is anywhere from 15 degrees to about 35 degrees. Well, covering tracks it means I don't need to go back over that spot again...

I can get a 104" forward tiller set to cover both my tracks. Or I can get an 84" reverse tine tiller set to cover one track. Which is better? Ground is hard, shale filled, clay....On an angle.

A small winch with 3 snatch blocks would help too. But your pictures don't look like there's many trees. Glad you got out. I got stuck in the same type of pond with the left front and rear. Lucking a neighbor has a bigger tractor and massive cahones to drive in the spot he to pull me out. I'm...

I think I conflated the weights. Thank you!

It's the quality v price situation. Ironcraft is about 300lbs lighter than the same sized woods or that everything tractors branded one. Edit: I may have conflated the weights. I just recently saw a 90" that was 900lbs and though that sounded very light.

Bump. I looking for the same info, but on a bigger one.

The first thing to do if you DON'T want to spend 7k is to go look at used ones. Look for the right hp req and if it requires a frame or if it's just 3pt. If it's used, check for leaks in the rams and control box. Also check for loose bushings. All of which can be fixed, but they will lower...

The ones on the perfecta page itself. Yes.

Several of the videos looked like it was tilled with the amount of fluffiness shown. I'm guessing the perfecta wouldnt accomplish that in my clay based soil? I'm open to any option really, as long as I can get my additives in it make hills.

How would thaat do in fluffing the soil for my additives?

There's been no erosion. But I can also put swales in if needed.

Hey all. I'm in the middle of purchasing a smaller tractor and need a tiller for it. The tractor is a New Holland TN75S with 16 speed ranges and MFWD. The tires are set to their widest at about 96" and I'd like to see if there's something you know I'd be able to run or if I MUST set my tires...

So the FEL has to be connected to the rear remotes no matter what? No way to free them up and use the FEL? Or are you saying the midmount couplers can free up the rears?

Is that something I can have installed on a 2001 TN75S?

Is the TN series the bees knees? And do you know if there's a way to Plumb the loader in somewhere else to free up the remotes?

Had about 1200hrs, heavy duty loader. And good condition. But I think the tire size was off. It was a low profile.

Bet they have a DPF with DEF on that 50kw generator....

Great post. The one I was looking at has a loader. And I do have a lot of loader work to do. And that was one of my concerns. I figure they probably built the SS to withstand the demands of the loader two fold, but it still causes me some trepidation.

This is a tractor forum. I'm not looking to discuss the mechanics of COPD, cancer, or other ailments with you, particularly with your vastly superior intillect of which I stand in awe. I asked about DEF/DPF systems because I found a tractor I liked, but had questionable EPA mandated junk on...

I don't know that you've added anything to the discussion yet. Please do if you're able.

You caught me. I'm typing on my phone inbetween seeing patients. Very telling indeed... Though, you didn't say anything of substance. Only throwing mud. Do you actually have anything to add or just here to be a troll?

I think you should go get an electric tractor and give all your diesel powered equiptment to me. Save the world and condemn me. 2 birds with 1 stone.

Resting tidal volume won't circulate much air "deep" into the lungs. Argue that if you want, but look where most primary lung cancers form. That was and is my point, which I see was a bit above your reading comprehension. Your poignent brain power is adding the the wrong emphAsis to the wrong...

3 cylinder doesnt bog down like that?

I'd be digging trails with the blade edges. And I can't always head down hill unfortunately.

I don't recall saying it doesn't infiltrate cells. As a matter of fact I recall saying it can, in an entire truncated paragraph! However, walking through a plume or two of smoke won't give you cancer. I also said the chemicals are just as dangerous if not more so. Trading one danger for another...

You keep saying deep into the lungs. You don't exchange that much air "deep into the lungs" unless you're really huffin and puffin. And mucus nor cillia don't care what the um is of the particle. They move out bacteria and viruses the same way. If you were chronically dehydrated sitting...

I'm looking at a TN75 with super steer, a cab, and it's low profile. It's just under 1000 hours. My questions are the following: 1. Does SS reduce reliability? 2. Is the engine taxed at 71hp being with small displacement and 3 cylinders? 3. Does this tractor have enough grunt to do things...

Well, I'm not a chemist. Just a simple medical professional. But I don't think you're entirely right. There's some phase changes, but it's not all roses shooting out of that burn cycle.... Try standing in front of it and taking a breath. As for the carcinogenic nature of soot, chemicals can...

Ummm... Eating ass is different than chewing ass....

It traps them, then lights them up all at once later. Again, pooping in a bag and saying you don't poop then dumping that bag later....

I thought the E stood for the economy mode the PTO was able to use. Not a different line of tractor. Is that correct/incorrect? Edit. I'm incorrect. E from M is the difference of a chassis and a lot of other stuff. Looks like I'm on the search again.

I'm looking at a JD 5085EL

Is DEF/DPF that bad? Things I've heard: 1. If you don't run wide open long enough the back pressure from the soot buildup will damage engine. 2. DEF damages stuff when it leaks. 3. Engine stays choked for power. 4. All the crud is burned out eventually making the system essentially useless...

Nope. 6,000hr machine isn't even worth that much. Plus it was an 8spd.

Well, what I didn't say was that the speeds were a bit misrepresented too. It arrived as an 8spd, but was supposed to be about double that. I'm currently looking at a JD 5085 low profile with the heavy duty FEL and 1000hrs, but it's got DEF and that makes me a bit leary - it's a whole...

That's good news. A good depression would help my buying power pretty well.

I'm good with the words,

Final update. They wired the money back to me after they said they didn't know how to do that. A shipper came and picked it up today. All done. Now I need a tractor.

Good advice. The rams are not going to be constantly moving. But any tractor in that size range should should be enough to move the rams even if slowly. I'm plumbing one remote into a hydrolic block, so it should be fine. I'm currently looking at an M9960 and an M5-111. But I'm still looking...

Not large rock, but lots of rock. I need to raise an are 50'x500' by 3 feet. And build bases for my main buildings and level out other areas. The dumptrucks will not stop for some time I'm imagining.

I'm using it as a dozer, excavator, grader, and tractor. I detailed it in my initial post.

Local guy charges $200 an hour. There's about 15 to 20 sections to do that are not concurrent and he has a 4hr minimum. I'd be into him for $15k or more by the end of next year.

Cost prohibitive. There's many steps to this and they'd need to come out very frequently. At $200 an hour, several weeks worth with 20 back and for trips does not make financial sense. Again, no heavy equipment. Thank you for the thought.

Don't have the funds for that.

I have read the reqs for ear item, but I'm using them in non standard ways. Hence the post. The bare minimum for my of my stuff is 50hp. But 50HP will just make the impliments move against smooth/flat ground. I'm doing significantly more work with them. I'm ballasting the tires and probably...

Do you have a link?

Judging by my wildly successful previous post, I should get some good answers here. I found a pretty stellar 80hp tractor with more displacement then the 100hp tractors I've been looking at. But, does size matter? I may as well say what I'm doing exactly with the tractor. A big function of...

I realize nothing. Ever.

That sounds right.

The ad is gone. This is simple. Advertised as 1500hrs. It does not have 1500 hours. This isn't really rocket surgery. That is why they are doing the right thing and taking it back. I've had people say they worked 30 years in a hospital... That doesn't mean they're Dr. House. They were...

You are correct, which is why they're taking it back. Plus they turned out to not be D bags. I never mentioned the dealer or city they are in.

I've thought about that. I've already got a backhoe arm for the tractor. And it a little worried about it on the slopes. My dad offered me his for 25k, but theres a good chance of rolling and waking up dead.

You need to go back and read.

Pretty sure you're in the wrong post....

Already goin back

It's not really the correct tool, but I'm not in a position to get a mini excavator, skid steer, and dozer. I need one machine I can do all 3 with for the camp. I realize it'll be slower then the correct tools, but it's also $200k cheaper. The rental is difficult. Besides there being no where...

Been on them for a long time. I used to buy gov auctions all the time.

Not honorable.

I've seen a few M5-111's for sale that'd work for me and are the right price, but they also have DEF which is an additional $2800 to have removed. Plus when the EPA gets involved, they help nothing and no one except their handlers.

Besides the work I have to do around my house, I am building a camp with it

This reactor would have been $50k locally. The dealer is taking it back as I previously noted.

Only if it comes with a loader!!

I've looked at higher hour machines, but they have seemed beaten up. 2000hr max seems to yield the best results. Plus, everything has a max use able hour rating before major repairs. And it seems that the people selling 10k hour tractors are asking the same price as the same tractor with 1k...

80HP bare minimum, geared, 4wd, open station but wouldn't frown at air conditioning. Frame size, I need as heavy as I can get and as low and wideas possible. No 8 speeds. I need to run WOT at 1mph or less.

I appreciate the offer. Need a loader and more HP.

I appreciate the help. I'm not actually in NYC. I would never purposely buy anything from the NE, West Coast, IL, or CO. I'll keep my money Red.

My closest actual town is 15 min away and is 2000ppl. Closest Walmart is about 45min away. I'm in the actual sticks in a very country state.

Ive heard of them. Rural king, zetor, and another few off brand ones too. I have to do a lot. I am building a camp in a Hollar, cutting trails, tilling, backhoe attachment, drain field, etc etc. I've got a lot.

I am. That is what the salesman said. Agreed The intake guy knew, but failed to pass it on. No investigation needed. The guy who listed it was overachieving. Not dwelling. Just annoyed their mistake cost me $1,100. And now I have the burden of finding another suitable tractor.

In 6 months it'll be someone else's issue. I have to find a new tractor now. I was thinking of getting some projects done while I wait for then to get it, but I'd be so mad at myself if something broke. So it's just parked until the driver comes.

Tractor is already going back. Too much risk on my end with unknown hours and worn wear parts. Nothing to replace to right the wrong per se, buy the worn stuff would probably be a few K.

I've thought about that. But now we're in the $70k+ range which is not a payment I want. I don't really want to go above $35k.

I agree. Good character of the owner. I'm sure if I bought a different tractor from them they'd make darn sure it was correct, but they don't have what I'm looking for. So back to the hunt.

Not quite. It was supposed to be listed as "approximately 2000 hours". It was listed incorrectly at 1555 hours. It's not who owned the tractor. It was sold under false pretense. If you bought a car from me, signed "as is" then I sent you a banana the as is doesn't stand. I did not send you...

Hard pass. 01001100 01001101 01000110 01000001 01001111

I have no friends :0 But I also don't have that many hours to spare on a road trip. They're going to wire the cash back to my account.

I'm about 8 hours drive with a trailer.

I'd imagine they would want to get the tractor back, but that'd not be very wise on my part. They have the money and the tractor, and I'm out both. I'll see how they do it, but it's parked and ready to go.

In the initial call, they admitted there was a miscommunication on their end and have apologized. I asked them to produce a solution so I didn't seem unreasonable, but I also made it clear I'm currently shouldering all the risk for the broken meter. They texted me yesterday morning and...

Nope. You got it. Unfortunately. Though I'm learning that there's many tractor folks that have no moral qualms with selling equiptment with broken meters and advertising it as accurate hours via backwood word trickery. In the woods I'm in and the people I deal deal with, your...

Does it matter? I'm here for the advice and information relating to tractors and the like, not to make my personal life details the business of the internet. Do you really think excavation of the moon is real, too? (though I bet our flat-earther friend 5030 beleives it's real, but not maybe...

1. I don't live on this forum. 2. I don't really care what you think. And you write way too much about nothing. 3. You need to go back and read, or have someone read it to you. I did post an update, but not the final decision. 4. I'd bet some money that your personality type is such that you...

Lol, because of the absurdity - same as my profile profession.

Justified when you do it, but not others because your circumstances were MORE extenuating?

Says who? Though I wouldn't say no to $10k.

100,000 miles on a commuter car in Arizona v 100,000 miles as an Uber in NYC. Your argument is invalid.

Thanks for calling me stupid, stupid? I don't have anyone I know like that in the area. But again, that doesn't negate anything I've said prior.

I beleive in honor and integrity in business dealing. I don't think I would do business with you, sir. As for my tractor. They admitted culpability and apologized for the problem. There was a miscommunication in their lisiting/intake area and that's what led to the listing be in error. They...

It's a kubota dealer. I put that in there about 90 posts ago, probably got lost in the fray.

Absolving the dealer of culpability. Still baffling.

Same.

I did. I wrote what they said a few posts up. I think it got buried.

I bought a house, truck, guns, impliments, and all types of stuff like this.

I'm not risk adverse to a fault. But I also expect people to stand by their word and be honorable.

It's a pretty awesome tractor. It's a beast really. I spoke to a company that will make me custom wheels so I can get low and wide. Hopefully at least 60 inches of rubber on the ground in the rear and 30" or more in the front. I think it'll do what I need it to do and have power to spare.

One need not wonder, for the query would produce a salubrious yes.

I'm about 45 min.

Read the post right above yours.

For all the harping on going to see the tractor prior to purchase. 2 points. 1 is that I'm a nurse at a very understaffed hospital. That many days off in a row doesn't happen. 2 is that it is incumbent upon the seller to accurately represent their item, point blank - full stop. What youre all...

This here is the exact issue. If the price per hour is calculated at 6000 hours instead of 1555, the deal becomes poor/bad. However, I spoke to the dealer just now. They called the guy that owned the tractor and spoke with him. He said he's been keeping track and said it was right at 2000...

Fair point.

$1100 to get it here. I doubt it would be on me. Liability is squarely on their shoulders.

Are you dealer?? I can tell you that my other tractor has 1,112 hours without looking. But it oesn't matter if you remember. YOU are end user.

It doesn't need to run for an hour. There's 1/10hr marks. And if you knew the hours weren't accurate, you could advertise the tractor truthfully and avoid liability.

Even at 30 minutes the 1/10 hour meter will move. I'm surprised how many people think the dealer is absolved of responsibility for not checking the functionality of a very crucial component of a tractor. It is after all one of the main determinants of its resale value. How is this any...

Lawyers give options. You don't have to hire them to be heard by an arbitrator or judge. You can also just file paperwork yourself. It's not all that hard.

"conflated". And you don't really know what you're talking about Mr. Mensa.

I'd rather they take it back. Average tractor age in hours is 10k. Say I'm at 6000, I'm way closer to major repairs. $500 isn't squat. If I were thinking of a rebuild or major maintence probability, I would have added $5k or $6k to my purchase price and found a tractor in the sub 1k hour...

Maybe. But a broken hour meter is like a bent barrel. Hard to not see. When I worked in a gun store I checked every firearm that passed though carefully. At the rental counter I checked each firearm with it's biweekly dissasembly/cleaning.

The only things they claimed was 1555 hours, working condition, and 16spd. The rest was pictures and videos.

The report is that the original owner used it for hay. From the smell, I'd say cattle too. They could be a set of used rears too. The unfortunate possibilities are endless once the main means of age are broken.

I hate to answer a question with a question, but why wouldn't it be? If I were buying a used barrett from a barrett dealer, it's reasonable to assume the dealer would look at the rifle with a more skilled eye then someone at a flea market, as it's a barret rifle being sold by barrett. Same...

Didn't plan on coming in hot. I'd rather this be solved peacefully and amicablely. Buying used golf clubs or a fridge sight unseen is a gamble. Buying a kubota from a kubota dealer shouldn't be.

They're a kubota dealer.

I looked at the video of the guy driving to show it's it's shifting ability. As he swung the camera around, I saw the tach was not registering the engine RPM. I didn't see it as the time, but frame by frame you could see it. They knew it was disconnected or broken. Not something that happened...

It took about an hour because I was moving some dirt I needed moved. Then I noticed it so I turned the pto on and kept going incase it was linked. I checked again and it wasn't working. I watched it closely and saw the 1/10hour number very slight jumping like the gears weren't engaging or had...

There's one original front tire that is bald. The other 3 are newer. I'll look at filters. Nothing in the manual. I do know it was a kubota service techs tractor. But judging by the random wires he installed and shoddy electrical work, Im guessing he wasn't that good of a tech.

It was Saturday. As for the time it takes driving to inspect it, I work. That is why I bought it from a kubota dealer.

It does not say as is, all sales final or anything of the like. I will be calling them in the morning. I'd honestly rather they take it back. It's been misrepresented and if I keep it the liability would be on me, be it 1,556 hours or 10,000. Either way it's too much of a risk to gamble my $30k...

You sound like a reputable person.... I'd bet a nickle you're a dealer of some sort...maybe used cars. What you're talking about is a defamation suit. There are clear lines of what makes a defamation suit and what would provide grounds for a counter suit to stand on. It's a shame you have...

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing/for-sale/226681573 I can't figure out how to check the sold ones from my phone. But you can read for yourself. It's not word trickery as you're saying it might be. The ad stated the tractor had 1555 hours.

Absolutely not. All things mechanical have an expected life span. These tractors and most tractors can get to 10k hours without a major overhaul. This tractor might only have a few thousand hours left instead of 8,500 hours. If it's the former, then the $30k isn't going to go far and I would...

It's a 2008 M105S. I can see the 1/10 hour number wiggle every few minutes like it's trying to turn, but the gears inside have let go or aren't engaged all the way.

Theres lemon laws and false advertising laws the consumer affairs dept handles. They have the the power of court behind them. I'm going to see what the place says Monday, then start talking to the agencies/lawyer in their area. $30k is not a small sum to be duped out of.

It's mechanical. Dealer is in Mississippi.

For $30,000 fraudulent practice, that's not small claims court. What's your reasoning?

The tach is broken. You can see the 1/10 hour mark bouncing as the gear tries to catch, but it just jumps a tiny bit but won't roll over.

Well, I got my M105s a few hours ago. Been playing with it and besides a loose steering wheel and worn FL tire it looks good. I glanced down at the hours and guess what. It hasn't moved!! This thing could have 10k hours on it! I bought it from a kubota dealership out of state who explicity...

The tilt is crucial. It's the only way to cut into the hills on long stretches without using my 3pt backhoe and taking a year. In 1st gear I should be able to pull an 8ft blade in front or back, I think.

105HP 4WD to be exact!!!! Haha. I figured it do anything I needed for this project. The rear blade with a tilt would probably work too.

I've got 1000s of feet or trails to make on hill sides. I have to be able to drive straight.

I thought about cutting into the hill like that, but then that's one more thing to get. Shaving of a bit at a time with the corner of a tilt blade would get it I was thinking. I was planning on working it down until I got a flat path to the observatory and other trails.

A dozer isn't in the cards. Just my tractor with a front blade or rear. There's also no trees. I need to make flat walking paths on clear hill sides.

It does sound like dozer work, which I noted and it is. I also don't have the funds for it as in building an entire facility/camp. Getting all my ducks in a row isn't possible. There's many multiple steps to this project and dozer work isn't involved in all of them sequentially. So calling out a...

I have a few things to do. I have to cut trails on hillsides and flatten out loads of dirt which are the two primary objectives. I don't have 150hp. The M105S has 105hp. I saw those blades, including the 3500 that is in my hp range, but they are prohibitively expensive. Another few thousand...

What size are those tires?? Mine is coming with ones quite a bit bigger and I'd like to get shorter and fatter.

I've still got the B7500 - I've widened it and put ballasted trencher tires on it though. Now it's almost 70" wide in the rear. The M105S is still in route to me. Those pictures are what it is, no cab. The dozer blade pushes back against the drawbar. In essence the tractor is still "pulling"...

Which would you go for? Either will have a hydraulic tilt function, whether I add it or it comes with it. Details: 8ft dozer blade will attach to the frame with the draw bar being the main point of power transmission. 3pt grader blade will be 8ft. Tractor is a MFWD M105s fully ballasted. Ground...

I settled on a M105s 16spd with a loader. Bought a 3pt backhoe and a frame mounted dozer blade, too. Still have a few things to get, but that's a start.

It's currently got bias bar tires all around. But the rears are only 18" wide and 13ish wide in the front. What size are you thinking?