Search results

Yup, I did install a relay circuit for the glow plugs. I’ll check the charging by by passing the fuse connection to see if I get better charging. Had to boost the battery today again to start it.

Get a o ring I’d app (Olypsys) to I’d the o ring size. Then order the right one and replace. It’ll be metric. Post your results with photos for us.

I had previously cleaned all the contacts on the battery, all grounds, alternator, clutch switch, basically everything in the starting and charging circuit. The voltages I posted were taken at the battery as well as at the starter. I believe that there is no issue with the starter itself as well...

Ok, had some time for this. At 1200 rpm I get 13.8 volts once I go past this rpm I don’t get any more voltage and it actually starts going down slightly. I did take off the selnoid and took it apart and found lots of age/use contact corrosion. I cleaned all the contacts and reinstalled it. The...

Just wondering what my alternator should be putting out for voltage. I get 12.24 volts at 1500 rpm which seems low. My battery always seems to have trouble turning the motor over. The battery is new. Maybe the alternator or regulator are shot? Any troubleshooting guides for this? I did take...

New filter vs old from another post just in case it was missed by someone with the same problem.

Received my parts order and thought a comparison between what was in my 354 and what I received would be instructive. As you can see from the photo the new one is much finer. The old filter looks like maybe 1/10” spacing. The new one is at least 3x finer. Outer dimension are similar. Maybe...

I guess, just messy and the tractor is sitting in my attached garage. Wife hates diesel smell.

Does anyone know the size of the fuel supply sealing washers for the Jinma 354? The parts diagram doesn’t list any size. Mine has slight leaks on pipe no. 13 on the diagram.

Well, no help for it so I just forged ahead any way. I levered the rear cone on the driveshaft so it exposed the four ball bearings and removed them using a magnetic pick-up tool. I then levered the front shaft from the ball bearings and then levered the shaft off. You just have to overcome the...

While waiting for my brake parts to arrive I thought I should replace my front driveshaft boot which was quite rotted. I’ve removed the rear 13mm and front 10mm bolts which hold the driveshaft covers on but that doesn’t seem to give you any access to removing the two covers. So what are the next...

Seems like every time I get off my Jinma 354 I accidentally hit one of the power switches. This can also occur when I use the cover…I also blame my cat for hitting them or maybe it’s the squirrels. Since I just wanted something basic I used a Ford Escape brake pad spring clip and bent it to go...

Ok, second post for the other brake unit. I thought this would go slick as I now knew what to look for. Removed the cover plate expecting the same condition as the other side but no it was a disaster. The inside looked completely filled up with crud. This was oily with maybe dirt and rust bits...

My 2005 354 brakes were always sketchy. You really had to step on them to get any response even after adjustment. Given the hilly nature where I live I decided they needed attention. The first issue was access to the side covers. This required removing the fenders and rops. No issues here just...

I have the odd part that came with my 354 which might fit. You can email me directly if you wish donb1234@shaw.ca

Perfect and many thanks! The only one I had different is the injection pump which 30 wt was recommended.

Well they are both dry on the 354

Hi all, Along with my various deferred maintenance projects for my Jinma 354 I’ll have to swap out the transmission fluid (while I'm doing a brake job) and I’ll give the hydraulics one more flush as I had to open the three point lift mechanism. Is gear oil 80/90 gl-5 ok to use? I should mention...

Thanks for the reply. The spools and bores were tight on the parts next to the wrench on the bench. The other ones were all ok. While I didn’t find any specific crud on the tight spools there was obviously something in there as once separated and cleaned up they slid in and moved as they should...

Here are the photos of the distribution block. What ends up jamming is the small valving assembly (photo with wrench at the side.) Clearances are quite tight so it doesn’t take much to jam it. Looking at my filter the spaces between the mesh are too large to trap the size of pieces which can...

If anyone has a decent diagram for the two lever type of distributor could you please post it. All the ones I’ve seen are for the single lever externally mounted type. Mine is inside the three point box. Thanks!

As an update to this thread. The arms did work for about 10 months and then started behaving similar to the initial way. I’ ve taken it apart and found the inner valving somewhat tight. I think crap got in in spite of the flushing. This valving is very susceptible to being affected by miniscue...

I also found I have 5 gallons of rotella straight 40 wt oil on hand. Would this also be suitable for the oil change? The manual I have shows 40# but maybe the Chinese have other oil standards?

Well that really sucks, you have to take the filter off to check the thread size then order based on that. I had thought everything on these was metric…haven’t seen any imp threads yet. I guess it’s also possible to use a 48/64”-16 thread instead of the m18x1.5 thread and it would “ kinda fit”...

Thanks, I’ll cross reference these. Not lots of Wix filters here.

Thanks much! Any method to changing the injector oil? Kinda new to diesels.

Well it’s time for that first engine oil change for my Jinma 354 with the three cylinder engine so I’m looking for any tips for the procedure/oil and parts. I’m thinking starting her up and running to temperature and draining the oil oil as per usual. Replace the oil filter, check drain plug...

Slight update for the o rings on the lw8 hydraulic lines to cylinder seals. Mine measured 8x2 size.

Just replaced my LW8 backhoe seals but NOT including the main rod seals which I couldn’t remove and seemed in decent shape anyway. For those replacing the rest being: rod o ring under the rod piston, both gland large o rings, gland wiper and the gland U cup oil seal (most important), See the...

OK, ordered the 90 o rings in a kit so I’ll always have some spares.

I like it! I’ll see if I can emulate it for my lw8, chinick unit.

Looking at my valve to hydraulic line face seal Jinma o rings I measure these as 2x8(id) sealing o rinos. I believe a 90 Shore durometer hardness o ring is required for sealing… but maybe not. Not sure on this. So, I’m wondering if I get the 90a or is a 70a o ring ok? I assume Viton or bunta...

Well, I don’t have a plasma cutter but might have access to oxy/acc cutting torch. Locally, maybe a cnc file and water jet. More expensive though.

I believe the grease nipples are underneath those joints.

I have a mig welder, good for 1/4” and my neighbor has a 240 v stick welder so I can weld one up…but if I’m welding up a kit why not just fab one up from local stock, hence my query. Saves shipping cost and might be a better unit.

Just wondering if there are any diy mechanical thumb plans available for my 354 chinick tractor with a lw8 backhoe? I’ve found some kits on Ann but they are a weld together type so I thought I might as well just fab one up myself if possible, scrap metal being available locally.

SLOWLY learning hydraulics. Thanks for your help. I ordered the o rings in silicon.

That’s great. I thought they were they were the NBR Metal Bonded Sealing Washer type.

I guess that’s 6mm inside diameter then? Couldn’t seem to find these listed on the Jimna part suppliers web sites. Is it possibly something a hydraulic shop would have?

Just wondering what type of o ring the hydraulic hoses take for sealing on my LW8? The description is o ring but is that true or are they some type of flat rubberized seal? Any idea of the sizes used on the backhoe and I guess the loader as well. I’m just replacing the lines outer spiral wrap as...

Well, my setup ended up working and did not mark the caps so I count that as a win. The soon to be installation will use some never seize.

In measuring my Jinma Chinese LW 8 backhoe hydraulic parts in order to find replacement seals I’m wondering where I place the slop of the measurements. For example, gland nut o rings. I get 64.5 mm ID on the part and 70.15mm for the cylinder wall id. So would a 64mm I’d x 4mm t work? Similar...

OK, finally got them turning and one completely off. Used my original setup of a pin type gland wrench modified into two slotted bolts also held in by my welding vice grips and a 4’ pipe. The stick one was the most difficult. Now I have to I’d all the parts I’ll need for the rebuild.

I’ll check for a set screw but don’t think there’s one. Next is heat with force. Maybe I can make a better gland nut wrench via pipe and some welding.

I’ve been trying to remove the gland nut off my 2005 Jinma 354 backhoe which is a LW8. Haven’t had much success yet so I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I did buy a gland nut wrench but the inserts are for a pin type and I wasn’t able to find a Jinma style one. I did modify...

Thanks for all the suggestions, appreciate them all. I’m thinking that the most cost effective repair would be: Have the cylinder rod which isn’t smooth brazed and then smoothed out (cost?), Find, some how..some where, new seal kits and install and Get or make a cylinder end wrench. Might also...

Sooo, my new to me my 2005 LW8 backhoe has one cylinder which has a leaky seal. The cylinder rod had some spotty rust which upon cleaning up still had finger nail noticable abrasion. On the time sucking vortex it seems the cylinder rod could be brazed and cleaned up, with new seals then...

Jinma 354 notes. Half of my electrical switches didn’t work but they were all repairable. Hopefully yours are repairable as well. My fuel gauge sender had no rod and float so I just made those using heavy fence wire and two wine corks. Gauges should be available. The Chinese wiring is kind of a...

I just went through something similar with my Jinma 354, 2005 vintage. Couple of things. First change out the hydraulic filter if not already done. I had to drain and flush out my system as it had a LOT of crud. The filter being almost not passable. After this I disassembled the valving. Long...

Quite often bad grounds are the culprit. My 2005 354 had what has to be the most inaccessible main ground. The other grounds all need checking as well. So far I’ve just been working back from the battery. The wiring on the Jinma is pretty low quality. I do like the little circuit numbers snapped...

No, no parts book. I did get a selection of o rings as well as head gasket with the tractor though.

Not yet, but did remove the old one and cleaned it out. No damage to it but I’ll replace it in the near future. Be nice to have a listing of all the o rings on this tractor. They are somewhat strange sizes.

Well The arms did work but I felt they still were not as easy to raise as should be. I decided to bypass the fel valve and hooked up the quick connect to bypass the fel and go directly to the three point. There was no change from the original connection through the fel, hence there must still be...

Well the arms did lift up and down but I found the operation of them very erratic, sometimes they worked and sometimes not at all. Given they did work..sometimes, I could see no faults in the piston, valves etc and given the very sludgy/junky mess I had cleaned out including filter I decided a...

Checked intake valuing and could not find anything that would impede any function. I did slightly adjust the float so it just touches the rear valve for the pto. Replaced some of the o rings and spray cleaned the valving. Really couldn’t see anything amiss.

Removed control block and cleaned it all out. Replaced feeder tube to rear hyd take off and jointer o ring. Mapped function of left adjuster bolt as per photo, note this is the inside face. Next I’ll try to take off the input hyd fluid tube and block to check for blockage. This is the same area...

This all makes sense. The front knob which ends up pushing a cylinder in the control block (that’s what I call it anyway) did seem a little sticky so maybe it’s still got some crud in it. I’ll drain the fluid and remove the seat, cover plate and maybe remove the cylinder in the block and try to...

I can’t seem to get my three point hitch to lower or raise. Right now it’s in the up position and doesn’t want to move. My 354 has the two levers on the right side by the seat, either seems to do anything. When I bought it the owner advised that you have to rev it up a bit to get the three...

Old post but I can recommend draining the fluid and checking the crud out on the submerged filter and flushing/cleaning everything out.

It does look like absolute crap. My bad for not buying a new unit but there you go. Hopefully, I can get everything working on this tractor. I anticipate lots of posts.

Well, the three point still wasn’t working. Tried raising the engine rpm , which worked before, but no go. Decided to remove the seat and then the cover plate to see what is happening…or not. I drained the hydraulic fluid. What I found was the filter was more than blocked by sludge. There was...

Thanks, I’ll do the test in the next few days. Things do seem locked up now though. Need to get the three point working so I can run a backhoe. Just topped up the oil.

I think the screw is working ok, doesn’t seem snapped off anyway. I think I’ll keep spraying and working everything to try to loosen it all up. Is the differential lock pedal on a spring? I can only get it move by using a large screwdriver. I’ve never seen the three point upper shaft move in or...

Thanks, the lowering control was jammed or rusted so I loosened it up with liquid wrench but didn’t see any movement when I screwed it in and out. The foot lever was very stiff. Can’t see any difference when I work it either but probably can’t tell anyway. Here is a picture of what I have. You...

So..I bought this older Jinma 354 that has twin headlights and a three cylinder diesel. I’ve looked for a manual for this guy but haven’t had much success but have some newer versions. My questions are: what the knob under the seat does? What the floor right hand side rearward pedal does? This...