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i don't think the FEL joystick is electronic. pretty sure it has cables but there is a throttle up button on it to raise the RPM's to a certain adjustable setting. too bad they made it momentarily on so you have to hold it to keep the rpm's up. and if it s got a third function it will have...

I found a extra plate on jd parts that you can get and I'm assuming you weld it to the bracket so you double the surface area but I seem to remember seeing pictures of a plate that was 90 degrees to the bracket so you would have much more surface area to avoid the wear.

I have a problem when I disconnect my mower. the lift arm has worn a groove in the lift bracket on the mower which causes it to hang up on the lift arm and makes it frustrating to remove the mower for cleaning. I seem to remember my dealer showing me a repair kit that was a smooth bracket...

I may get flack for this but I use John Deere coolgard 50-50 mix. and I change every 5 years. the test strips are expensive and they expire quickly so I figured just changing it was cheaper in the long run. plus I did the first change in 2020 so it is easy to remember next change is in 2030...

I don't know how much that valve is but I used two valves. one for each line. I have a post about it somewhere on here. cost me about 500$ to put it on. but I did bend one of the links that are between the lever and the pin, probably when hooking up not perfectly aligned. the links are 140$...

Just remember the extra money you spend now you will get back on the resale end of it. look at MX vs Grand L used prices. I could sell my L4740 for probably 15,000 more than I paid for it before covid. they are just investments. a place to park money for a while, be useful and sell after in...

jus t a trick but you can start with hot water so the heater just keeps it hot instead of heating it up. I use water and put the cleaning solution in a ziploc to use less solution.

thanks for updating the thread. it is nice that it was a simple solution too bad you already had the axle out by the time you figured it out. must by industrial tires the carcass is so stiff it doesn't go flat even at 0 PSI.

the old hours meters were on a cable and 1 hr was at PTO rpm. An hour at idle would not amount to 1 hr on the meter. I think those models have a screen on the hydraulic system as well as the filters. did that get cleaned out at the last hydraulic fluid change. perhaps its a clutch issue...

shouldn't be a problem as long as the filters are clean and connections don't leak.

adding a filter will not solve the problem of debris in the fuel. you will just have to change the added filter just as often as the factory filter when it was alone. fix the problem of debris in the tank first then look at your fuel supply. do you have a bulk tank that is contaminated. how...

at a minimum I would expect a loaner. 30 hours is a lot. sounds like you bought a demo or previous loaner tractor from them.

it is one of the reasons I chose the WC68 over the WC88. If ever the hydraulics went south I could just plumb the drive roller to my remote hydraulics and keep the flywheel going with the PTO shaft. but the pto drives the Pump on the WC88.

If you are going to tile like Kenny D I wonder how the costs would compare to using the heated wires you lay down before you tile.

I'm not sure but I think the tractor won't go into regen if the sensors tell it the DPF is not plugged. Also i bet the sound changes at the same coolant temperature. I think the sound change is normal.

I replaced the tires on my wife's bicycle and one of the two is all cracked up and the other is fine. both bought at the same time from the same store. not sure if they have date codes like car tires but.... they hold air and thats all they need to do.

black shoe polish would work for a show tractor. Mine front tires have been cracked for a while. off road, I would run it until it fails like john0829 says. you would be surprised how long they last. I am willing to bet the new tires don't stay crack free more than 2 years.

the guy already admitted it was a stupid move in the title you don't need to rub it in. I vote for a ratchet strap with light tension and tapping with a hammer on the side of the yoke. like people have mentioned make sure the locking feature is not engaged.

I tend to use H more with the HST + but most work is done in M. I find I use L a lot less than the other two. And I don't road my tractor much either but I do have relatively smooth trails in the woods that could sort of count as "roading"

thats a good strategy. Honey, this tractor wont lift what I need to lift so we need another one to get the job done. More fun that way.

look at your fuel filter bowl when it is cutting out. is it all cloudy and full of waxy substance.

great, thanks for updating the thread.

top circlip will limit downward movement and the bottom circlip will limit upward movement. there should be a shoulder on the bushings that catch the tube the shaft goes through.

there is an entire generation that has not known interest rates higher than 3-4%. they don't know how to save because they never had to. interest rates have been too low for too long and now everyone is living on credit and has gotten used to a lifestyle they can no longer afford.

I think he means in the first pic on the left side where the shaft meets what looks like the steering wheel we can see daylight on the other side of the shaft. but I think that is just the tube meeting with the steering pipe item 210. I think you mean up and down movement on the splines,funny...

nice tractor, the beefier front axle starts on the Grand L 47XX model. I would love a front mount blower but I can't lose the loader so I got a rear mount blower.

I think they are just talking in general that class of machine is the largest available with an HST transmission.

I would think most farmers are the type to fix their own stuff. there must be a market for tractors with an available copy of the service manual. diagnostics tools available for a reasonable price and a tech support line staffed with people that know their product. so that you can fix your own...

the newer models have better fuel filtration but I don't know when they started putting a better fuel filter. not sure if they added a second smaller micron filter or if they replaced the original filter with a better one.

the feedback rod may be jammed telling the tractor that the 3pt hitch is where the control wants it to be even if it is not. happened on my first tractor but it used to have a backhoe installed before I bought it so I suspect the linkage was not used very often.

is one of your remotes on. it will take priority over the 3pt hitch

your going to have an extra 1 1/4 of water before your drain pipe starts evacuating. You are paying extra for the transport of small quantities. unless you went and picked it up.

My dad has a 1988 JD 285 lawn tractor with the kawasaki liquid cooled engine and I walked into my local JD dealer asking for the breather hose that connects to the carb and they had one in stock. That is the power of JD. they support their products with the price that goes along with it. I...

time flies when you are having fun.

I just went through this with my tractor. I have had a weak pump since I got it around 500 hours. I had the dealer adjust the pressure when they installed the third function and they said adding shims to the relief valve did nothing past 2400 psi. spec is around 2600psi for my tractor. so...

3K miles on a 3 year old truck? I would check the fuel filters and fuel for contamination. Sucks that the new crap now is so unreliable. the neighbours LX3310 just had a code E21 pop up. ECU communication error, see dealer and it won't start so it was stuck in the driveway. this is where we...

thats 65$ USD for you guys until the tariffs come into effect. Just to be clear this is not a canadian product this is cheap chinese crap that worked long enough for me to make the two hoops and I don't see why I wouldn't be able to make several more. If I had a fabrication shop and had a...

https://www.vevor.ca/slip-roll-c_10116/product-p_010157863616 I had to take it apart and clean the swarf behind the grease zerks. I used 1 1/4 wide 1/8 thick strap that I had left over. not sure if it was hot or cold rolled. If I count my time it would have been cheaper to buy a pair of...

Ball valve for both of mine. I would have loved to go with an electric solenoid valve and a switch in the cab but that added complexity in wiring especially since my loader is quick attach and I do remove it sometimes. for your info , I have not shut them off since I installed them. If you...

I bought a cheap ring roller and made my own hoops. but I have a welder and some basic fabricating skills... the roller worked suprisingly well for 100$ CAD tool. but it took some disassembly, clean up and greasing before use to make that happen.

I Like your soft jaws very clever. I really would try to get a drain in behind the wall even if it is a smaller two inch drain at the bottom of the wall and then a 4 inch drain higher up. the large drain would handle most of the water and then the small drain would handle whatever gets below...

piston or bladder types make a difference too. you are not supposed to bottom out a bladder type and piston types are sometimes rebuildable. usually you install them vertically with the fitting at the bottom so that any debris in the system does not wear out the seals constantly I have two on...

it takes alot of energy to drive tracks. I notice the difference on my honda 450 atv . the sprocket is roughly half the diameter of the tire so it is geared down. 5th gear is practically useless unless on hard packed snow going downhill. and top speed is half of the top speed with tires.

following just because this sounds really interesting as a DIY project. Other than having driven a real snowcat grooming ski trails years ago I don't much useful input.

adjusting the relief vale is not actually playing with the pump and is actually quite simple once you know where the part is. I changed the poppet and seat on mine, chasing the upper limit of the spec but apparently my tractors pump is no longer able to give the max spec for my tractor. it was...

there really isn't much space between the fenders and the back /front tires, lets say the tires on the three point end of the tractor. thanks for the extra pics. always nice to see other options. I wonder how much load that forklift mast puts on the top link mount. It sure does look handy to...

I have a 2700psi. had it for a couple years. comes with a kohler engine, no trouble yet but it isn't very old, I wash cars, tractor, four wheeler, but not every week. Probably run a tank or two per year. I got mine on sale for around 1300$ CAD you must be looking at a huge one for 3000$ I...

they are a nice compact manoeuvrable package. I can't imagine starting down your driveway on ice with no snow banks to bounce off of. you are a brave man. beautiful scenery. My dealer mentioned those rotating drum snowblowers that bypass the chute are like giving your tractor 40 extra hp...

i've seen some around here too. they are expensive but nice to have the reversible feature. My impression is that the cabs feel crapped but in all fairness I have only looked at them and never sat in one. you mention steer tires but is your model articulated?. I wouldn't mind seeing pics with...

I rented a kubota kx57 this fall and I found it small for what I was doing. had a couple stumps to dig out and one was fairly big and was all it could handle to get it out of the hole. felt like I was running out of reach quite often. It was my first time operating though so I guess maybe you...

the water in the oil will still settle out if given enough time. but it could be air also. the water will settle to the bottom and come out first when the drain plug is pulled. but I would run it to stir everything up before draining to make sure water is not pooled somewhere in the bottom of...

not familiar with flame spraying but the plasma spray I am familiar with it not robust enough to stand up to that application. mainly used to build up diameters that are tight fits with mating part. not a wear zone. I have looked into hard facing wire on a mig welder to repair studded Ice...

not familiar with that model but if the fluid is milky, that indicates water in the oil, and it is cold up here this time of year so water freezes so I would get the oil nice and warmed up and drain it first as a trouble shooting measure. any moisture in the bell housing as well that would cause...

sorry p/n ch14765 is item 36. I would have put the seal with the shaft If I was writing the ilustrated parts catalog

I think it is item 36 in section 50 powertrain, transaxle housing and rear cover. I am assuming you mean the mid pto shaft seal where you would connect the mower shaft. there are lots of options for rear PTO kits but take a look in section 50 they are all on jd parts website

I use a couple base board heaters I mounted on two two by fours. I wanted more load than a 100 watt lightbulb for my 5000 watt generator. I am close to max load when I run it so it gets a workout.

Oh you have the mulch on demand. my comment was based on the mulch kit I had on my HC54 which was always mulching unless you took the kit off.

+ 1 for clean battery connections. they tend to corrode and can make a big difference. I noticed my tractor was getting a little slower while cranking so I took apart the battery connections and found the positive clamp starting to disintegrate. I cleaned up the connection and put it back...

I think the hole might be fore a power flo bracket. My HC54 had a flat plate all the way across the exit on the mulch kit. not sure why they would have used curved plates on the HC60

mine has an 1 1/4 inch plate on the bottom and I managed to bend it a little with a stubborn large piece of maple. it's only a 3 inch cylinder set at 1800 psi but I guess the leverage of pushing 18 inches out from the base helped to tweak it a little.

nice compact design, i like the bars to pop the wood off the wedge as it goes back up. that bottom plate looks kind of thin. I'm assuming there is a tube frame bar aligned with the wedge to help support the force of the splitter bending the plate.

Have you tried calling a towing company they may move it for cheaper, or maybe try with AAA atleast on the trip home. might be worth the membership.

I just got an email from their newsletter. maybe they are active again. I'm kind of like others, I would hesitate to buy unless picking up locally.

sounds like a great way to twist the lip on the bucket. I seem to remember seeing some companies that offer fork frames only for sale. you would have to verify fitment. any chance that scrap forklift is still around so you can cut/remove the frame also and fabricate a ssqa mount?

I am planning to build a splitter with a copy of a vertical splitter that can be dropped down to make it more stable. I prefer vertical because you can raise the 3pt hitch and work at a comfortable height. the one problem I'm having is how to convert my prince valve to spring to the work...

i realize this is an old thread and you probably fixed it by now but... any update would be appreciated. mine has been running flawlessly so far but you never know when that might change

I have had the overtemp switch trigger when my x758 had a bunch of dandelion seeds over the intake screens that I hadn't noticed. In my case it just shut off the PTO. for the immediate restart when you cycle the key you are back on the start cycle of the solenoid instead of the hold...

plus one for the shop vac in the filler port when you do the 200 HR HST filter change. I hardly lost any oil last time I did it. I probably wouldn't do it to change the suction filter but it worked well for the HST filter.

I stand corrected, sorry for spreading mis-information about the 40 series on the forum. we do indeed have a lift pump. I was not expecting to see a mechanical pump on the injection pump. that pump is now 210$ CAD. so about 145 USD removing the tank really isn't all that hard especially if you...

there are usually plastic pins that push in to hold the round cone end that covers the U joint onto the tube. usually the chains are hooked to the cone and both sections of shield should have chains that keep them from rotating. are you missing a chain so that one tube is fixed and the other...

Yes a total game changer in the ride quality. And I don't even road my tractor very much but my trails in the woods are nice enough to drive fairly fast but are not perfectly smooth so it makes the Mod worth it for me. My cylinders were external so it was easier to T into the hose. I have a...

yes, force required goes up with the square of the velocity. My coworker has a 2023 sierra with the 5.3L and he said the same thing. we think it has something to do with the transmission not making it into 10th gear at slow speeds but once you get above 75mph it gets there.

could be if the dealer used 15w40 instead of 0w20. depends what your truck calls for but I agree it is unlikely that the oil is the issue. on my car the wind and speed driven affects mileage the most and ambient temps. as soon as it drops below freezing mileage drops even on long trips...

years ago maybe when new parts were available, they were worthy of the barn floor, but now when there are no more parts available they may be worth fixing to someone.

the amount of nitrogen pressure is important. not enough and it will bounce too much and if you have to much nitrogen pressure in it it won't really do anything. and of course it all depends on how much your attachment weighs.

to avoid breaking the 3pt hitch when roading with a heavy attachment. most snow removal contractors use them up here. there is a safety valve in the 3pt hitch that protects from shocks but the properly setup accumulator also improves the ride greatly. it really smooths things out. I have a dual...

If in usable condition they are worth a lot more than that to someone. the problem is finding that someone.

your dealer should be able to tell you what port is the test port for the three point lift circuit. you just need to tee into that circuit. lots of snow removal contractors running around with accumulators on the 3pt hitch. they must have set up at least one, a good service manual should have...

the high pressure injection pump is thousands of dollars to replace. the 40 series is gravity feed to the high pressure injection pump, atleast from the factory. I would change out the fuel filter and fuel lines if you are having trouble with fuel starvation. a lift pump just masks the...

I'm pretty sure your 3540 does not have a lift pump unless it was added as aftermarket. loader mount can stay on as long as you can visualize which valves are doing what and know which stroke you are on. tank definitely should come off with the tank frame unless you have tiny monkey hands and...

are your lift cylinders internal or external. you can just follow the hoses if they are external but if they are internal, hopefully someone with more knowledge of your specific tractor will chime in.

I think thats where my plan would fail. the lever is relatively easy to move but when I get down to the control valve outside the cab my guess is the force required would be too big.

it works for push and pull? that is some creative engineering. nice work. mine is a cab so I have to walk around to the right side, realise the door is locked walk back to the left side get in and then adjust the top link. then try not to forget to unlock the right side door so I don't go for...

The lack of a rain cap on the stack would explain the symptoms and be a cheap and easy fix. My rear main seal leak I mentioned before seems to have cured itself as well.

you can also add ballast to the tractor to give it more traction. certainly not to get it to 12,000 lbs but you can get a lot of weight on it. filled tires, wheel weights, a loader.

kubota has always been more efficient in the transfer of engine horsepower to the PTO but that is a big difference. Not sure if it is all in the marketing and rounding of the actual power numbers. anyone have dyno numbers to prove them. here in quebec canada tax rules also change based on...

My kubota does that too but only after at least 1.5 hours of mowing in hot weather. never got it fixed because I don't mow the neighbors field anymore and it is not an issue with the snowblower in the winter. But If your PTO clutch is hydraulic I would check the pressure that is applied to...

problems kind of go with the number of tractors that are out there working all day every day. I think kubota has the market for compact utility (lets call them gentlemen farmers tractors) that don't necessarily get used all day every day and then once you start getting into the larger tractors...

You have plenty of PTO hp. I ran a 6 foot MOTT with 22 PTO HP and it wasn't too bad. field was rough so I had to go slow anyways. make sure you can lift it though. Bearings are cheap compared to cutter shafts and rollers if they are bent. only way to really test would be to run it on a...

testing will permit catching problems before they turn into bigger problems. running an engine until it stops is a great way to spend money. but knowing that a bearing is spinning on the crank before it scraps the crank shaft would save alot of money on the rebuild. sometimes it saves the...

sounds like the return hose for the fuel. there should be a fitting on the fuel tank that it should go over. but it may be broken in half and be way too short. start at the fuel tank and look for a nipple or a loose hose.

interesting to note that most dealers don't seem to have dyno's to test tractors under load. That is an interesting diagnostic path and at this point it sounds like it is worth exploring before bypassing the fuel tank. I know water and electricals don't usually mix well but perhaps a damp...

sounds like you are designing a fire suppression sprinkler system. your 1/2 inch solids would probably plug up sprinklers. maybe you could run it in zones with a manifold to reduce the flow required by the system.

the b7800 has a quarter inching valve not position control so there is no way to set the height consistently the same using a stop on the lever.

plus one on the trying to get it closer. that is a lot of weight to be that far out at the RPM it spins. It should be better since it started out at .200" but vibrations will kill a flail mower fairly quickly. plus it is a lot of work to get it all back together only to find out it has to come...

didn't someone say they were right next door to EA. I would pick up in person if that is the case.

I would also drain your filter bowl again just to be sure. Biobor also has good info on their website about dealing with contaminants in fuel.

i just pulled a steering wheel off a JD x730 last weekend and I had to hit it quite often on the underside with a deadblow hammer. there is a taper on the JD and splines so it is the taper that is holding on. I think upward pressure on the steering wheel with a light tap on the shaft would...

his mower does have a rear roller as well. it appears to be in the second picture. they do cut better the lower they are set.

mine does vibrate a little as It goes up the range from idle to PTO RPM but it smooths out at full speed. I think you have found your problem. Here is a helpful PDF about mott 60 & 72 inch models whoever said to remove the blades to test has never done it. there are 184 stations it would take...

I would suspect cutter shaft bearings or a bent rotor. I have the same setup but mine is 3pt mount. I had to replace both my cutter shaft bearings and I had to make a spacer to bring the pulleys into alignment because the belt was jumping around when I got into thicker grass. d ring holders...

I didn't catch that you replaced the fuel line. Now you need to go throw out that chunk of line that you kept on the spare parts shelf (if your like me) , since it seems to have been the culprit.

I think that info is on a sticker under the hood but thanks for posting it anyways.

there are two bolts on each side that hold the tank frame onto the tractor. the tank comes out with the tank frame attached. it is in the manual but it is a brief paragraph somewhere along the lines of remove the fuel tank with frame. clutch rod had to come out because it passed between the...

once you get the tank empty I'm pretty sure you can see the bottom with a flashlight. you should be able to see if there is sludge at the bottom blocking the outlet.

how did the mowing go yesterday?

30,000 would pay for a lot of driveway clearing. but you can't just look at the numbers. If you enjoy doing it and it keeps you active, and its paid for...

don't know any specifics about your machine but sometimes the spring is internal to the transmission. my pto engages electric over hydraulic so I don't have a lever for the PTO. I would look outside under the cab. there may be an access panel that can be removed behind the rear wheel. the...

does that mean you can actually reverse the direction of rotation of the rotor just by hooking up to the other side of the mower. keeping the mower on the rear of the tractor. that would be interesting. of course the gearbox/drive pulleys would end up on the other side. looks like a well...

I rented a truck and trailer and drove 3hrs there and three hours back to pick up my L4740 CAB. in feb 2019, Got lucky with the weather. not too much grime sprayed all over the tractor. I paid pre covid price for a used tractor and I could probably sell it now for more than what it would have...

with our dollar near record lows I'm sure it was worth the trip. Pics would help visualize. usually plows don't have engines.

I have a mott 72 with gauge wheels on the back but mine still has the roller as well. you have the long finish knife configuration which should be pinned on. Mine has the bolted on D-ring and short knives configuration. I think the D-ring is more resistant to rough cutting configurations but...

Reading my write up again the tank came out the right side, I just had to remove the clutch rod to slide the tank with frame out. Are you sure you took the old o-rings out. Maybe they got doubled up and are causing air to get in. You can try just draining the tank by disconnecting the...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/grand-l4740-valve-adjustment.465080/#post-6514877

I have a write up about how to do the valve clearance check. the tank should come out for better access so you can clean it out at the same time. it is not a 30 minute job but it isn't 8 hours either. unless you run into trouble breaking stuff. what does the fuel filter bowl look like when...

what does the fuel filter look like. I know you replaced it but any chance it is some kind of sludge in the fuel making it plug faster. If you are draining the tank to clean it out that is one step required when you check the valve clearances, at least on my 4740 it is easier to access with the...

it sounds fuel related, at 1400 hrs you are coming up on the injector checking at the dealer. Injection pump check is at 3000 hrs I think. Have the valve clearances been checked? that is supposed to be at 800 hrs.

If he replaced the cap on the road with the axle already warm it shouldn't be a vent issue but anything is possible.

I have 39HP PTO and I run my wc68 full speed and I haven't had to drop the speed down yet but I'm not usually chipping full 6" logs either but I have put a couple big softwood branches through. hardwood becomes firewood.

I have a WC68 and have had it clog but not too often. mostly when you get to the top of spruce trees with lots of needles. I bought the wc68 because the flywheel is pto drive and hydraulic pump belt driven so I figured if ever the pump crapped out I could just plumb the hydraulics to my...

sometimes they get old and collapse internally or worse they break inside and act like a check valve. Those types of problems are hard to diagnose. Glad you found the issue before starting to replace more expensive components

They have a lot of upgrades to do to catch up with Deere in the premium class. E-PTO, 3pt hitch controls outside. LED lights would be nice. Not sure how much market share the new 4075 JD will take away but the electronic 3pt hitch sounds nice to use until you have to fix it. My guess is snow...

Pics or it didn't happen. :) I would love to get into the small hobby farming but I have 8 acres of woods and no real chance at getting more the way land prices are around here. no one seems to care about what we are going to eat in 20 years.

like steve tym said, you could hook up a 25kw generator and it would work but when you get over 10kw of load you will lose rpm HZ and volts will drop and you may scrap a few electrical appliances in your house. depending what is running when the voltage drops. I had a engine powered...

probably an engineer overthinking things. wasn't aware of the KISS principle. new parts are both RH thread which makes sense to keep things simple.

when I had my rockshaft replaced under warranty I told the service guy that one bolt was rh thread and one bolt was left hand thread and they still managed to snap the LH threaded side because they were turning it the wrong way to unbolt. rockshaft replacement solved my leveling issue but i`m...

I don`t have autoconnect on mine., mine is a 2015 model. thanks for all the updates,

on your old shaft, do the square drives seem to be indexed the same? I see they changed the moon shaped clips and bolts that mate with the levers and realized I may be barking up the wrong tree with the bushings and creaking noise. I think I will try spraying the moon shape clips and levers

I still have my creaking issue when lifting and lower the deck, Mostly when lifting. Haven't found the right type of lubricant wd40 works short term, lithium grease spray works but not for long. I think deere should have put grease fittings on there. I also never have enough time to take it...

thanks for posting an update, does the new rock shaft have a longer male square drive to engage fully with the wider (deeper) female square drive of the lever.

assuming HST, make sure no sticks are blocking the linkage underneath the tractor. fluid level ok. start with the simple stuff. if the pedal moves but the tractor doesn't is the linkage connected under the tractor and may sound stupid but is the range lever in neutral?

I have seen the power company put those power pole anchors in. I don't know if they have different types but the one I saw must have been atleast 8ft long probably more like 10 feet and drilled into the ground all the way. Cant really remember what the end going into the ground looked like but...

engine speed or tractor speed

I think it just means you have to talk to the sales guy instead of the parts department. I did it in 2019 for my third function kit on my L4740.

the cab mx's are a fairly recent addition to the line up a few years old at best. not sure if they make them all the way down to the 5100 size.

some people don't realize loader lift capacity goes down as the height increases. his attachment can effectively lift more than pallet forks because his loader is much lower than it would be with pallet forks. assuming his attachment is the same weight as the pallet forks.

I would pass, rust is hard to fix because it has a way of affecting everything. mechanical issues tend to be easier to fix because once you found the problem you replace the part and you are good to go unless it is generalized wear from a ton of hours.

I think we got this figured out but It is not a static problem, as soon as you start trying to lift the load it becomes a dynamic problem. the way I see it is you really should be using the 3pt almost to its full capacity if you are using max capacity on your loader. I have a multi purpose...

I did it without looking at the timing mark. as you turn the engine you can tell which valve is moving and whether you are at top dead center or not. but you are correct, I had a hard time finding where that access plate was to see the timing mark in the manual.

if you are talking about just 3pt weight in general I would go with atleast 1000lbs on the 3pt. filled tires will help keep the rear end on the ground but it won't help unload the front axle.

depends on what you are doing. Max lift loader work I would want as much weight on the 3pt hitch as possible taking into consideration physically capacity, financial capacity, and size limitations in the area you are maneuvering.

I have a write up on how I did mine. you can search my username. fuel tank and tank frame has to come off so don't fill up just before. definitely pull the glow plugs instead of the injectors. unless you want to get them tested. might not be a bad idea with the number of hours. I had only a...

my car has an oil temp gauge and it takes at least 10 miles to get up to operating temp. atleast in 30 - 40 degree F weather. shorter in the summer of course.

our L40 series axle only has one level plug, close to the fill plug.

I think it is installed by now, and WR long was a little slow on the response. besides he needed the OEM kit.

do you road your tractor alot, the gear teeth look worn out. obviously a bearing has failed but the gears seem quite worn as well, perhaps lots of use coupled with a too low oil level. I don't think the front blower caused it specifically but do you run a counterweight while the blower is...

that looks bad. Sorry for your loss. I did notice when I changed my front axle oil that the level dropped quite a bit after just running it a little so it is important to check the fluid level fairly often and keep an eye out for leaks. I didn't see any broken housings in the pictures so a...

Sounds like you are looking for a complete axle assembly. just to get the terminology right. you can search for a tractor scrap yard. my guess is the damage is more isolated to the outer assemblies (bevel gear cases) but hopefully the ground up metal is only in the outer assemblies and didn't...

Mine are starting to crack and I am contemplating doing the same thing r4 in the back and r14 in the front. glad to see that it is possible to get close to the same dia. I just haven't had any trouble with them not holding air so the "project" has not gotten off the ground yet.

if your attachments are all male fittings just wrap a rag around the QD fitting and press it against anything hard. that should relieve the pressure. tractor side shouldn't be a problem, actuate the valve with the engine off, Key on if electronically controlled (ie. third function) and pressure...

I hope you meant 20" because 20' is a lot of oil. I really hope for your sake that it is related to the PCV system because it would be an easier fix and probably cheaper. the sudden onset of symptoms seems to lean in that direction as well because if it was internal wear you would think it...

some larger tractors have front diff locks and some have limited slip front diffs. my father i laws M6800 had two pedals one for front diff and one that locked both. you couldn't lock just the front diff. His newer M7060 has a limited slip front diff so back to one diff lock pedal.

you have to spin the tire to get the diff lock to engage, the trick is you have to do it slowly. to line up the pins in the diff lock so they engage. a slight down pressure on the pedal until you feel it engage then you can go full speed on the HST.

we might as well also talk about ballast when we talk about diff locks. It makes a huge difference. My B7800 often needed the diff lock when driving through my woods until I had the tires filled then I was rarely using the Diff Lock.

Putting larger pins in isn't necessarily the best solution it will only weaken the part that the pins are pressed into. sometimes the wheels have to turn a little for the diff lock to engage but the trick is to make them turn slowly. ramming and jamming only breaks stuff.

and with the R14's too, please let us know how you like them once they get dirty. Congrats on the new tractor.

for 41.89 I would replace Item 110 unless I am misunderstanding what the problem is. you could drill and tap for a helicoil but might not be worth it if the lever itself is only 40$ looks like the joint has an allen head on the other side. are you tightening down the nut enough.

is the joint separating or the threaded portion coming out. Hate to break it to you but you probably drilled too big a hole when you were removing the broken part and now there are no threads left in the part that the bolt threads into. when drilling a broken bolt in a threaded hole always...

I was driving and noticed the smoke in the rear view mirror. Made a mess of the engine bay. I pulled over, stuck the dipstick back in and it didn't come back out again. after that I investigated and cleaned out the passage and hose in the throttle body. Where was that plug on your kubota...

I had a 91 roadmaster blow out the dipstick from a plugged crankcase vent passage in the throttle body. It didn't smoke from the exhaust. it smoked from the oil hitting the exhaust manifold under the hood.

great news, It is always nice when the lesson doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Is the picture you posted of the cover you replaced?

great suggestions, tilting the tank would be easy to do with shims on the side the pick up is located on.

I have an ultramar commercial pipeline fuel station right off the highway where I live all the trucks go there so I figure the fuel is fresh. chasing cheap fuel may not be the best idea in this case

I couldn't find power service BIO KLEEN locally so I went with biobor from amazon.

I see no mention of a biocide. i would skip the diesel tank cleaner and use biocide instead especially if you have had problems with water in the fuel in the past. keep extra filters on hand after treatment because you will go through them. I use BIOBOR JF it is the only treatment approved by...

those signal lights are fairly cheap around 30$ last time I checked a while ago, roof damage is a whole other story that roof is one piece and in the thousands of dollars but nothing a little red neck engineering can't fix with a couple bucks worth of silicone or JB weld. if that is in USD you...

removing the cover will let you visually inspect inside and see if any more damage was done. If you get away with having only damaged the front cover, I think you can go get yourself a lotto ticket because other cases I have heard about involved internal damage. What you have done essentially...

the feedback rod on my b7800 was jammed when I bought it used. don't know where it would be on a GL35.... also I don't know how cold it is where you are but the 3pt hitch is gravity down and pressure up so maybe you just need weight on the hitch to make it go down. try the simple stuff first...

check the belt tension. and by check I mean slack it off an re-adjust. Mine was set by a gorilla at the factory and I Checked it and found it was not to loose but didn't realize it was too tight. Have fun.

I just bought a hm130max to mill some lumber for a gazebo type cover for our spa. You got it right though it is the time that is hard to find. between assembling the mill and milling lumber I missed the weather window for actually building the structure. But I am the type of person that will...

more is not always better when it comes to coolant concentration. I have heard that a 70% coolant to 30% water actually cools worse than 50-50 mix so it is a balance between freeze protection and overheat protection. besides a 50-50 mix is good for all but the most extreme climates. plus one...

what does the manual say, looks like either a DPF/regen light or possibly a restricted air filter light.

I would start with a careful look at the wiring harness. so many random seemingly unrelated errors or symptoms would point to a large harness being damaged or pinched somewhere and shorting out. any rodents around?

I'm sure a leaf blower works pretty good. its what I use on my lawn mower after every mow.

I wouldn't worry about it but you can check the fuel filter bowl if it has one. How long does heating oil sit in those tanks??

the OEM lights on the front do have a notch in the housing that allows light to come down in the footwells of the cab model and I don't think the tiger lights have that so it was one of the reasons I hesitated to do the fronts but really how often do you need to see where your feet are in the cab.

plus one for the tl3240 tiger lights. got mine from larsen lights I did just the back because they are a little expensive at about 100$ but I regret it. I should have gotten all four because now the back is well lit but the front sucks. totally plug and play. took longer to figure out how to...

try lifting up a little. it may cut better into the pile if it isn't pushing the pile along on the driveway.

if your lifting the rear wheels off the ground making them wider is only making the problem slightly better. I think his tires may not be filled. on a small tractor like my b7800 it made a huge difference. I could easily lift the rear off the ground especially with the curl function without...

are you sure your tires are filled... Sounds like they aren't because your issue seems to be counterweight and not necessarily a wheel width issue. they do go together but if the wheels are lifting off the ground you could have them a mile apart and it wouldn't help perceived stability. sure you...

I hope you didn't go 66,000 miles on the original air filter. You are 6 K overdue for the fuel filter. Cabin airfilters I do one a year regardless of mileage to make sure I get optimal airflow for a/c and defrosting windows. I tend to follow the manufacturers recommendations not a dealers...

I think my cylinder is the same size 1". My clue that something was wrong was that only one handle would move when I actuated the cylinder and I don't even know when the pins actually got bent. I only got to looking at the mechanism when only the one handle moved. and even then I disconnected...

I do grease the pins regularly and it was an easy fix. I haven't even straigthened them. I really think the fact that you aren't actuating the levers your self really changes how you perceive the greasing interval. Plus I just finished spreading 31 tons of gravel so I'm sure some of that...

I feel like I have to update this thread. I just bent the two rods that link the levers to the ssqa pins. the ones with the springs over them. They are 131 USD each so one more reason to grease those ssqa pins as often as you can. Luckily they still work. I just took the pins out and cleaned...

I feel like I have to update this thread. I just bent the two rods that link the levers to the ssqa pins. the ones with the springs over them. They are 131 USD each so one more reason to grease those ssqa pins as often as you can. Luckily they still work. I just took the pins out and cleaned...

I have heard that PTO gears are fragile on that model. Can remember exactly if it was the actual gears or the castings or if the broken gears would have a tendency to break the castings but I would stay away, Kind of like the Kubota B3350 stay away.

yes that is correct you cannot float a mechanical top link but most people like the idea of being able to float a hydraulic top link. but that particular model has check valves in both directions so it does not move or drift. hydraulic pressure applied to it will make it move but it won`t move...

the full throttle button is actually adjustable, you can set it to the rpm you want. what disappointed me was that it is spring loaded momentary so you have to keep your thumb on the button to keep rpm's up. it would have been handy to be able to run a pto implement with the button and be able...

Welcome to the forum. Front or back. I changed both of mine and I went with the beam type instead of the metal frames since we have freezing winters here. they were not from kubota. I just don't remember the type of mount off hand.

vent plug it the cap where you add oil into the transmission at the back close to the top link mount beside the dipstick. the split pin plug is underneath just behind the oil pan.

Nice work. you got those deck boards finished nicely. the only concern I have is used oil and diesel may be slippery when wet especially with foot traffic but too late now. It did give the boards a nice stained look.

good on you, If it sounds too good to be true it usually is. trust your gut.

I use Power service white bottle sept-april then switch to power service silver bottle May-Aug. with biobor JF biocide year round. 1.75ml per 5 gallon can my bottle will last me my whole life. The clear diesel from power service is not a biocide, just helps remove water and clean the system. I...

perhaps the plate (15) below the cover is cracked. it would explain why the new o-rings didn't fix the OP's problem.

there are also usually different holes to use on the 3pt lift arms that vary height but it is a trade of between more height and less capacity.

just realized you are in Australia, not sure when exactly the 40 series became available in Australia.

call any kubota dealer, they should at the minimum be able to tell you when it was sold/registered. any warranty repairs should show up as well. rust on the cylinders can get expensive quickly. I would probably pass unless it is really cheap.

sounds like the detent on the lever is worn out. take a look at the parts catalogue and see how deep it is in the transmission. usually a ball with a spring that fits in a dimple on the mating part. I'm guessing it stays in medium all the time.

Well, I will have to check mine out and see if it has a lift pump. I assumed if there was one it would have been before the filter so I was looking upstream. That looks like it is installed on the high pressure pump.

how is the engine temp. Mine did that but turns out there is a safety in the system that disables the PTO when the temp is too high. turns out the screens were full of dandelion fluff.