buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Thought I would put together a timeline of my 1997 house build.
19970103 - footers were dug and poured
19970103 - footers were dug and poured
Last edited:
This day in 1997, of my house build
- Thread starter buckeyefarmer
- Start date
- Views: 54865
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
Cool flash back...
This day, 1997, I turned 20 years old... *grin*
This day, 1997, I turned 20 years old... *grin*
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
19970108 wall forms installed
19970115 Basement walls poured.
19970117 Lumber arrived for the first deck.
Excavation and foundation were subbed out.
19970118 installing seal plates on top of walls.
19970115 Basement walls poured.
19970117 Lumber arrived for the first deck.
Excavation and foundation were subbed out.
19970118 installing seal plates on top of walls.
Last edited:
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
So after 20+ years, how has the poured walls and concrete work held up? Any cracking issues or settling? I've pondered the poured wall method for some of my future projects but various reasons come back to standard footer and lay blocks thinking.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
The excavator cracked a wall while backfilling. The walls have 1/2” rebar both ways every 2 ft. I put a crack filler in the crack and it has never been an issue.
No settling at all. The entire basement is one big concrete box.
When I added the garage a few years later I used poured foundation walls for it also.
No settling at all. The entire basement is one big concrete box.
When I added the garage a few years later I used poured foundation walls for it also.
Last edited:
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
This should be fun!!! Now that it's been over 20 years, what would you do differently?
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I would have kept whole house about a ft higher in elevation, and pushed more dirt up around. Not a big deal. I still got gravity to septic under the footer.
Would have insulated under basement slab.
Would have paid more attention to taping tyvek, I m sure some seams were not taped. Same with windows, I know most of them are not taped.
Would have added more insulation to attic..
cape cod, so some drywall is on bottom of 2x10 roof rafters. Wish that was spray foamed. Had lots of air infiltration at open ends of rafters, between rafters and insulation. I went in later and blocked the ends up to the insulation baffles that let air under roof deck, above the insulation.
I glued and nailed subfloor, wish I had screwed it. Just a time thing. Floors squeak, I want to go back and screw if/ when I replace flooring.
Would have placed house further back on lot.
There’s plenty more, lol. Not much internet back then, I learned a lot since then.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I designed the house. I first designed a much larger one, with 2 story front porch and 3rd level in the attic. I basically cut 1 level off.
Here are 4 elevation views. I planned the garage extension which I started in 2002.
Original design was shed dormer in upstairs back ending 2 ft from each end. I ended up running it all the way to the ends.
Here are 4 elevation views. I planned the garage extension which I started in 2002.
Original design was shed dormer in upstairs back ending 2 ft from each end. I ended up running it all the way to the ends.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Original floor plans:
Basement:
First floor:
No closet in office, that is part of larger pantry.
Fireplace not built above hearth.
2nd floor:
Joist level was left on.
Unfinished space on left was finished as master bedroom. As was master bath.
Hall to right went to window at the end, which later joined to rooms over garage.
Basement:
First floor:
No closet in office, that is part of larger pantry.
Fireplace not built above hearth.
2nd floor:
Joist level was left on.
Unfinished space on left was finished as master bedroom. As was master bath.
Hall to right went to window at the end, which later joined to rooms over garage.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Cross section
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
While waiting for my last house to sell back in 1996, I bought a shaper and built my kitchen cabinets. Solid oak fronts, solid oak raised panel doors, oak vener sides and backs.
I can not find a single picture of the cabinets being made.
Sides, tops and bottoms recessed into the face. Wall cabinets used 1/2” sides, base used 3/4”. Used biscuits joining the face pieces together.
Doors used rail and stiles.
All cabinets designed using CAD software.
I can not find a single picture of the cabinets being made.
Sides, tops and bottoms recessed into the face. Wall cabinets used 1/2” sides, base used 3/4”. Used biscuits joining the face pieces together.
Doors used rail and stiles.
All cabinets designed using CAD software.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
But I was the one doing most of the work. I can only blame myself.
Question, When tyvek goes to the top of the outside wall, do you tape it to the wood all along the top to keep air from getting in behind it? Same at the bottom? Not sure I’ve ever seen it done.
My problem is the bank gave me 6 months to build. I was working full time with an hour commute each way. I worked a lot of late nights under the lights, often alone. Some things got missed.
There was no Home Depot local back then. The Lowe’s was a dinky old small Lowes. After I built Home Depot came to town. Then Lowe’s built a large modern store. Now there are 2 of each in town.
Most of my lumber was ordered and delivered from 84 lumber. A builder friend ordered for me. He was able to get much better price than I could get. 84 lumber stocks lumber up to 20 ft long, and can get longer.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I used to teach CAD courses at a local community college. I quit that minimum wage gig before starting to build. I have used several CAD programs. My favorite is Intergraph / Microstation. I was able to buy a student version for well under it’s $3k price. It ran on DOS. I still prefer it over the autocad 2010 windows version I bought later. And since autocad 2010 is no longer supported, they disabled my license. Yea, they won’t let you run outdated sw, just because they can. Even if there’s nothing wrong with it and you don’t want support.
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
I'm my own worst critic. And I readily point out my failings. What's up with that??? :confused3:
Trying to think how my builders did the Tyvek at the top. Watched them tape it at the bottom.
Trying to think how my builders did the Tyvek at the top. Watched them tape it at the bottom.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Two things about building your own house, nothing is hiding from you and you know ecvery wistake. Lol. That’s how it came up, so I’m leaving it.
OP
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I already reported up to the 18th, it’s hard to wait to report the next thing. Lol
I see a lot of kitchen cabinets boxed out a foot at the top. I made mine go to the 8 ft ceiling for extra storage.
Lazy Susan in wall corner, piano hinged door for base corner.
I see a lot of kitchen cabinets boxed out a foot at the top. I made mine go to the 8 ft ceiling for extra storage.
Lazy Susan in wall corner, piano hinged door for base corner.
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
When my dad built his house in 1981, he built in the 1' bulkhead over where the cabinets would go... then due to tight finances, thru together some plywood and 2x4 shelves until 1992 or 1993 when he could afford the oak cabinets my mom wanted... and tore out the bulkhead to, like you, make use of the extra storage space. And built a small rolling step ladder so my 5-foot-nothing mom could reach the top shelf!
