$10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor.

   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor. #41  
I've seen a few 1710's for decent prices. My concerns with them is they typically don't seem to have rollover protection and they are very lightweight. We'll be using the tractor in HARD southern clay.



That's a heck of a price for that size of a tractor. How has it been on the fuel?

about the same as my Ford 3000 which was also very fuel efficient . Both diesels relatively large displacement low revvers- 2000 rpm max.

jmo but If you are doing ground engaging work in hard clay I would skip any light tractor- no matter where it was built. would also want R1 Ag tires.
One other thing about horsepower and Chinese tractors - most are rated at the averaged power they produce for a 12 hour run period- not a short term gross #

I have no experience with Jinma but do have a neighbor that has a 284 and he has been very happy with it.
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor.
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Curious, there is a Kubota 2900GST I found that is will used (2500 hours). The owner has had it for four years and originally purchased it with a blown head gasket. He claims a mechanic repaired it professionally and he has been using it for every day duty since.

How reliable are these? I'm wondering why it blew a gasket in the first place. At $5000, it's priced well below anything else I've seen.
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor. #43  
Curious, there is a Kubota 2900GST I found that is will used (2500 hours). The owner has had it for four years and originally purchased it with a blown head gasket. He claims a mechanic repaired it professionally and he has been using it for every day duty since.

How reliable are these? I'm wondering why it blew a gasket in the first place. At $5000, it's priced well below anything else I've seen.

Are you asking how common are headgasket repairs? If so I can answer as a mechanic and long time shop owner. Head gasket repairs have always been one of the staples of any mechanical shop that does engine work. Mechanics fight for those jobs. It is a common malfunction, straightforward to repair as good as new, and labor intensive. You do the work standing up instead of laying on your back. Technically, there's some benchwork which is nice to do too. That's because when the head is off is a good good time to throw in some machine shop work on the valves and head face, and as a bonus the mechanic and the shop normally gets a split on that work too. The result of a good head gasket/upper end repair is a motor that runs better and is more reliable than new. It runs cool again, and probably has a few more HP.

So mechanics love to do head repairs. It is clean work, done on top of the engine, pays very well, and results in a satisfied customer. When a head gasket blows it typically doesn't hurt the other parts of the engine. It's a little costly to do it right because each procedure adds up, but the result is not too expensive for what you get. That's a nice balance between cost & benefit all around. Repaired right, the engine is actually better than new and more reliable.

But because there is that additive expense factor.... and because nobody can really tell afterwards whether or not all the work was done right or even done at all...Well, head work is also a job that can be done too cheaply by lazy mechanics looking for a fast buck by just taking off the head and replacing the gasket without any machine shop work on the head face, valves, or cooling system. The downside for the customer is that work done like that will hold up for awhile, but is pretty much a guarantee that the head gasket will fail again in the same way. The upside is that it can be fixed again....and this time correctly.

BTW, overheating an engine is the most common cause of head gasket failure. It occurs when the heat either warps the head which allows coolant and oil pressureto bore a connecting hole in the gasket.... or by heat expansion loosening the bolts that hold the head tightly resto of the motor and again leaking coolant and oil into where it shouldn't go.

But head gasket failure isn't always due to overheating. Some head gaskets simply fail. I say that because I've seen plenty of engines - and even owned some - that I am absolutely sure were taken care of properly that eventually needed headgaskets.

To answer the question you didn't ask, if it was professionally repaired there will be a repair ticket that lists procedures and parts used. If the tractor owner doesn't have it, the shop will. Or at the very least the mechanic should be able to remember that job and be willing talk about it in detail. So all you have to do is ask whoever did the work. I've never known a good mechanic or shop that didn't keep at least some sort of records. It's all part of the definition of "repaired professionally" as your seller is claiming. Shop owners have to keep job records for legal purposes anyway, and accurate repair records are just about the best advertising that a mechanical shop can have. Don't be afraid to ask at any repair shop about any job that they did. As an owner, I had people come in every day with that question about work done on a vehicle they were thinking of buying. It's common.
rScotty
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor.
  • Thread Starter
#44  
But head gasket failure isn't always due to overheating. Some head gaskets simply fail. I say that because I've seen plenty of engines - and even owned some - that I am absolutely sure were taken care of properly that eventually needed headgaskets.

This was my biggest concern. Headgaskets are an easy fix...especially on smaller engines. I just wasn't sure how common overheating was in these, and if it would have been a continual concern.
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor. #45  
This was my biggest concern. Headgaskets are an easy fix...especially on smaller engines. I just wasn't sure how common overheating was in these, and if it would have been a continual concern.

Oh, OK...the answer to that is that overheating can be a problem with the CUTS (Compact Utility Tractors) as a group. It has to do more with the way they get used and so is not a continual concern. There isn't any real problem with overheating as long as the machine is used within it's limits, but as a group the CUTS aren't like the old Ag tractors that have a lot of reserve cooling. CUTS tend to be geared too high, under-cooled, and owned by people without a background in working machinery. All of which makes it easy to to overwork them. And they only have a a few basic warning lights which can be ignored. Most don't have the automatically-actuated shutdown limits common to commercial machines. So it doesn't surprise me that you have found a CUT that needed a new head gasket.

Contrast that with old Ag tractors and commercial TLBs which have heavy frames, low gearing, overbuilt hydraulics, and big efficient radiators which all combine to make it just about impossible to work one of them so had that it will hurt itself. But all the systems on a CUT are no sturdier than they need to be. They are comparatively
lightly built and it is possible to strain them and do damage in a variety of ways if you try hard enough.

But if you get a good CUT and use it within its limits it will last a lifetime.
rScotty
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor. #46  
In my usual way of thinking outside the box..... :)

Your two heaviest tasks would be plowing and post-hole digging in hard soil. You could rent a super-heavy-duty post-hole digger. Also, a lot of folks are going "no till" these days, even farmers. Soooo, if you could eliminate these tasks, you could buy a smaller tractor. Since your budget is so tight.

I have the same soil as you. Unimproved, when dry it's like a clay pot. I don't *dig* a ditch, I *carve* it. I don't till my garden at all and now have 18" of the good black stuff full of earthworms. However, initially to create the garden, I had to break it up first because about 8" below the soil is partially decomposed bedrock--mica schist to be exact. I am now in the process of enlarging the garden. I lower the scarifiers all the way on my box blade, and just drop them and go. It breaks up this rock without effort. A few passes, deeper and deeper each time, then I will start adding compost on top. I have just a 26 HP.

Depending on how you will use your pasture, bush-hogging can usually be done once or twice a year. Or if it's overgrown now, you can bush-hog once, then maintain it by mowing. I mow 3 fairly rough acres with a z-turn and it takes about an hour. With a small garden tractor it takes around 2 hours. A big, heavy tractor will compact your clay soil.
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor.
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Just an update, I ended up getting a 37hp, low hour Century 2535 (same as a branson 3510). For $9500, it came with a C-50 FL, 6' Brush Hog, Box Blade, Auger and a 6 foot Scrape. Now the search is on for a manual.
 
Last edited:
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor. #48  
Just an updated, I ended up getting a 37hp, low hour Century 2535 (same as a branson 3510). For $9500, it came with a C-50 FL, 6' Brush Hog, Box Blade, Auger and a 6 foot Scrape. Now the search is on for a manual.

Congrats:thumbsup: Got the heavier of the 2 loaders
and you got some great attachments to
It should serve you well
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor. #49  
Sounds like a good tractor for a great price. Enjoy.
 
   / $10k budget-12 acres mixed use...first tractor. #50  
Just an update, I ended up getting a 37hp, low hour Century 2535 (same as a branson 3510). For $9500, it came with a C-50 FL, 6' Brush Hog, Box Blade, Auger and a 6 foot Scrape. Now the search is on for a manual.

Happy New Year! :laughing:

Enjoy the new-to-you machine. :thumbsup:
 

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