11.2 x 24 tires

[capt1989]

Will these fit on the standard rims that come on the ym2000? I need better traction for the tractor and am looking at possibly going to a wider tire. Any information is helpful. I already have 160 lb wheel weights, keep the box blade on it pretty much all the time, and in the spring I have water in the tires. It also has a FEL. You would think that with all the extra weight it would get better traction than it does, but then again, I probably push it a little harder than it should be occasionally. I thought about doubling up the rear tires but it is way to expensive (I can't afford) to get the appropriate parts.

I have had this ym2000 for 4 years now and except for a rocky 1st month, it has performed above and beyond. These things are bullet proof! :thumbsup:

capt.

 

[SPYDERLK]

To keep from overloading your axles I would add as much weight to the rear wheels as possible. Bigger tires filled would not add a lot unless you also went to foam fill. ... Expensive to do both and scary because its permanent. What about just chains for your current Ags? More traction without much more weight.
larry

 

[California]

Some random thoughts. Maybe something here will be helpful.


Are you airing down to a noticeable sidewall bulge? At least as great as a radial tire, preferably more.

I had to go down to 7psi on the oversize (12.4x24) tires on my YM240 to get this bulge. It puts a lot more tread on the ground. This AND maximum water fill were recommended by my third-generation-farmer neighbor like he configures his tractors. (No freeze hazard here).

In fact I decided 75% water fill (up to the valve stem at 12:00) was too much weight, the tractor struggled to go up grades in third gear with this weight and the additional diameter of these oversize tires. (and a very heavy loader).

After I put on the ROPS, I decided its additional 65 lbs pretty far back helped. Plus I didn't have to rely on ballast alone to save my tail from rollover on side slopes so long as I used my seatbelt and left the ROPS up. So I reduced the water ballast to 50% fill. This feels just right. I've never gotten it stuck (... well I have used the loader a couple of times to toboggan sunk front wheels).

There aren't any iron weights on the YM240 but I wish I could find some like I put on the little Yanmar.

I don't know if those 11.2 tires will fit your rims. Are they Ag tread, or rice tread with huge cleats? The width of your rims should be stamped on the rims. You can match that to a tire chart to see if 11.2 is acceptable.

 

[capt1989]

The bigger tires would not add a significant amount of weight but they would hold more water and would put a bigger contact area to the ground. The ym2000 had a factory option of dual rear wheels so the rear axle and gears should be beefy enough to handle it all. Hadn't thought about chains though.... Now have something else to consider. Thanks for the reply.

 

[capt1989]

I was thinking about that today California. The lowering air pressure part. I am at work right now, for the next 24 days, so can't try it but I know for a fact there is 12 lbs in each tire cause I just emptied the water and adjusted the air pressure 2 days before I caught the boat. It would certainly help. I may just have to accept that as good as my ym2000 is, it does have limitations. Man...it hurts to say that. I'm going to have to get some anti freeze and put the water back in though. I missed the extra weight dearly when working the property the last day. The tires are Ag treads. Appreciate the random thoughts.

 

[deepNdirt]

all of what California suggest is good suggestions to try, another thing is.... I don't know about your driving experience on a tractor, But when I got my tractor I had to learn its temperament, I'm sure there is a better word But anyway I was running at too high of RPM and not the correct gear to get optimal traction, it seem all this tractor would do is spin spin spin, I started lowering the engine speed and trying out other gears and then I found the key to getting my tractor to hookup, your 2000 like my 1700 can send quite allot of engine speed to the rear wheels its just knowing how to lower that speed and bring out the torque,:thumbsup:
also if you have a FEL and you load it your rear wheels will be lite on the ground, a Box scrape alone is not enough ballast, I have to use 2 suitcase weights as well hung to my Box scrape and sometimes feel I need even more, and to answer your question as to if a 11.2 will fit....? I dont think it will fit the 8" wide wheel, however there is another size that will fit 9.5 x 24 .... when comparing the three sizes you can see the amount of difference and the 9.5 is quite a bit larger than the original 8.3 ..
here is a picture from an old thread I had about the same thing... I hope you don't mind 284 International if I share this picture

 

[284 International]

In what situations are you finding yourself lacking traction? Sometimes, where weight is located matters more than how much is there. If you're having trouble backing up out of a hole with a full loader bucket, you will be much better off to add 200 lbs of ballast to your box blade than you would adding the same mass to your tires.

If you need traction to pull a disk or the box blade, then you'll be happier with the weight on/in the tires. You might be better to drop the bucket off the loader, to transfer some weight to the rear.

 

[capt1989]

deepNdirt, Thanks for your comment. I understand exactly what you are saying about the temperament thing... my tractor and I have melded together many moons ago.... but it was quite a learning curve. With the amount of extra weight I generally carry around on the rear axle ( 160lb cement weight per wheel + 167 lbs of water ballast per wheel = 654 total lbs on the rear tires, plus the box blade and FEL) most of the tractor work is in 1st or 2nd gear at low rpms. I am careful but consistent. I want results, not a broken tractor. 9.5/9 x 24 tires are the original size for the ym2000 so maybe the 11.2 will fit on the slightly bigger rim. I have 200lbs of suit case weights... never thought of putting them on the box blade... they will go there when I get home, that extra weight behind the tires will surely help plant tread to the ground. Don't mind the International pic at all.

284 International, the 200 lbs of ballast will be applied to the box blade and will definitely help. The traction issues are when pushing backward with the box blade ( pulling forward and getting a full box, lifting and pulling forward, then wanting to move the same pile backward out of the way), and sometimes when using the FEL to push something, logs, dirt, whatever, forward.

I think that lowering the air pressure in the tires and the additional weight on the box blade will be as good as it will get under these circumstances. The tractor already does a phenomenal job and I have asked it to do a lot over the 4 years I have had it. The present project is clearing, leveling and pulling stumps out of the back 2 acres of my property after selling the timber off of it 2 years ago. Not an easy task considering the huge loaders that cut and pulled the trees did some of the work in the rain, and there are HUGE ruts everywhere. It took me 5 hrs to do one area 4 ft wide and about 200ft long. But that one area is now level and stump free. Slow, careful work keeps the tractor together and get steady results. It is going to take a long time but I don't mind, not in a particular hurry and the satisfaction of doing it with my little tractor is .... well... satisfying!:laughing:

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate all opinions and input.

capt.

 

[284 International]

I don't mind the photo sharing at all.

Capt1989, the photo deepNdirt shared is of an 8.3x24, a 9.5x24, and an 11.2x24 tire side by side by side. The 9.5 is on my YM2000, for reference.

How big is your box blade? Be really careful loading up the tractor with enough ballast to push backward any load you can pull. The hitch isn't really designed for that kind of load anyway, and ballasting the tractor extra heavy will end up bending and/or breaking things.

Putting 200lbs of extra weight on the box will almost transform your tractor for loader work. You'll be very pleased. It won't make it easier to pull or drag, but it will bite better.

For what it's worth, Titan tire shows the 11.2x24 tire being on a 10 inch rim and the 9.5x24 tire mounting on an 8 inch rim.

 

[clemsonfor]

deepNdirt, Thanks for your comment. I understand exactly what you are saying about the temperament thing... my tractor and I have melded together many moons ago.... but it was quite a learning curve. With the amount of extra weight I generally carry around on the rear axle ( 160lb cement weight per wheel + 167 lbs of water ballast per wheel = 654 total lbs on the rear tires, plus the box blade and FEL) most of the tractor work is in 1st or 2nd gear at low rpms. I am careful but consistent. I want results, not a broken tractor. 9.5/9 x 24 tires are the original size for the ym2000 so maybe the 11.2 will fit on the slightly bigger rim. I have 200lbs of suit case weights... never thought of putting them on the box blade... they will go there when I get home, that extra weight behind the tires will surely help plant tread to the ground. Don't mind the International pic at all.

284 International, the 200 lbs of ballast will be applied to the box blade and will definitely help. The traction issues are when pushing backward with the box blade ( pulling forward and getting a full box, lifting and pulling forward, then wanting to move the same pile backward out of the way), and sometimes when using the FEL to push something, logs, dirt, whatever, forward.

I think that lowering the air pressure in the tires and the additional weight on the box blade will be as good as it will get under these circumstances. The tractor already does a phenomenal job and I have asked it to do a lot over the 4 years I have had it. The present project is clearing, leveling and pulling stumps out of the back 2 acres of my property after selling the timber off of it 2 years ago. Not an easy task considering the huge loaders that cut and pulled the trees did some of the work in the rain, and there are HUGE ruts everywhere. It took me 5 hrs to do one area 4 ft wide and about 200ft long. But that one area is now level and stump free. Slow, careful work keeps the tractor together and get steady results. It is going to take a long time but I don't mind, not in a particular hurry and the satisfaction of doing it with my little tractor is .... well... satisfying!:laughing:

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate all opinions and input.

capt.

Im only saying this about my profession to put validity in what i say. Anyway, im a forester, and there is no way a logger would leave my woods or my jobs with HUGE ruts in the woods. I send them home if its getting that big and there is the understanding they are to fix any damage they have caused, which is smoothing the surface up, there is still hidden damage of soil compaction but its all you can do, thats the point why they get sent home! If you sold the timber yourself you still have the right to send them home, depending upon the wording of your contract at sale time, if it was a handshake deal you still have the right, its your land! They are use to "fixing damage" and will do this sort of thing when asked. But if not they will try and will leave without doing anything. Its part of the job. Your should have swapped the timber for having them push the trees vs cutting them, then all you would need to do is have them push them into a pile and you burn them.

Sorry i am 2 years late on this advice. I hate to see landowners get treated this way and the ones that do this give the logging profession that hated stigma that they have!

 

[capt1989]

clemsonfor, My ignorance doth abound.:laughing: They were actually a good group of guys and I harbor no ill will against them. They had a deadline to meet and we discussed the possibility of the property damage with the changing weather conditions. He did offer to go to another site till it dried up. I told them to go ahead and finish the job. I understand your point though. After re-reading my last post I can see how it might make the loggers look bad and that was not my intention. The property was not being used for anything and now that most of the stumps have had time to soften up I will attempt to clear and level it, and tie it into the part of the property that we live on. I am doing this mostly to have something to do with the tractor and it makes me feel productive. I work a 28/28 day schedule and when home I sometimes need something to keep me occupied and escaping on the tractor fits the bill. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

 

[clemsonfor]

clemsonfor, My ignorance doth abound.:laughing: They were actually a good group of guys and I harbor no ill will against them. They had a deadline to meet and we discussed the possibility of the property damage with the changing weather conditions. He did offer to go to another site till it dried up. I told them to go ahead and finish the job. I understand your point though. After re-reading my last post I can see how it might make the loggers look bad and that was not my intention. The property was not being used for anything and now that most of the stumps have had time to soften up I will attempt to clear and level it, and tie it into the part of the property that we live on. I am doing this mostly to have something to do with the tractor and it makes me feel productive. I work a 28/28 day schedule and when home I sometimes need something to keep me occupied and escaping on the tractor fits the bill. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Sorry were getting sidetracted, but you live in the south so im guessing that these are pines, most likely. Even a 8" pine stump i dont think your pulling up with a 2200lb 24 hp tractor! You may be able to cut and dig the 12" and smaller ones out, but even a D4 will struggle with stumps that are in the 19" inch range once the tree is no longer standing (for leverage). A better bet and my honest opinion, here is dont fool with it. Now if there small hardwoods and like first thin pine you may be able to do it, but will take forever!

What i would do is to wait another year maybe or maybe not, but get as big a drill bit as you can still turn, get or rent a 1/2 drill and drill maybe 5 holes for every 8" of stump diameter and pour your old oil and deisel fuel in them letting them soak several spplications up over a few days, then after a soaking rain, say maybe a few days later (in winter) go out there on a windless day and set them on fire with tthe rest of the piles. Those stumps will burn all the way down, removing the tap root and any big laterals, leaving huge holes to now fill. Way less effort involved. I have done this with a few old small stumps with great sucess.

Just a bit of info, this will not work on Hardwood stumps, unless you kill them with herbicide and then let them lay another 2-3 years, as the stump is still alive and to wet to burn out.

 

[rScotty]

Will these fit on the standard rims that come on the ym2000? I need better traction for the tractor and am looking at possibly going to a wider tire. Any information is helpful.
capt.

Ah, the perennial traction problem...It seems to me that a good tractor always has more power than traction. A good-fitting set of chains makes a worthwhile difference. A turns out that a 20/30 hp tractor is light enough to use automotive chains, although it will take an evening with a vise, pliers, and hammers to meld a couple of sets of old automotive chains into a good fitting set for the tractor. Sure is worth the effort though.... I've made them for all my tractors through the years. The 4wd models get front chains too...
rScotty

 

[clemsonfor]

Do chains help in say a loosely plowed field, i wouldnt think it would help?

 

[rScotty]

Do chains help in say a loosely plowed field, i wouldnt think it would help?

Well.... I've thought on this some. In a loosely plowed field regular the lugs on Ag tires normally work well just as they are. Of course it depends on the dirt, but working in a loosely plowed field is exactly what the Ag tire was designed to do. Weighted and pressured right, they should almost gear themselves to the ground. The Yanmar owner's manual shows some pictures of how much slippage is just the right amount for max traction with their Ag tires and hints on how to get there.

Chains help a lot when driving in sloppy mud or snow. I'm thinking that the reason is that both of those substances have low shear strength. Low shear strength allows lugged tires can sink deeply, but when we put the power to them we find that lugged tires alone don't allow the mud or snow to develop the resistance that would allow the tractor to drive forward. What happens is the tire just spins as each lug causes a compression shearing failure in the section of ground that it is pushing against. And to add to the problem, the dirt-oriented Ag tires have lugs are spaced a little too closely together for best use in mud and snow. So when one lug fails by collapsing the little ridge of mud it is pushing against, the next lug doesn't have the space to allow the material to flow to the proper shear angle to resist failure.

The result is that as as each lug slips in the mud it sets up a condition that causes the next one to slip as well. My guess is that putting on tire chains works so well because it is the portion of the chains that wrap radially across the SIDES of the tire that end up doing most of the work. Another piece of evidence is that traction doesn't seem to suffer a much as I thought it should when a portion of chain crossing the tire falls down between the lugs. That confused me for a long time. For years I would assemble my sets of used chain carefully making an "X" pattern to prevent the chain from falling between the lugs - until I found that it didn't seem to make much difference.
rScotty

 

[clemsonfor]

In a lthat weight of the machine will sink the tires down, but when I put power to the tires sink down, but tend to slip and spin as the lug forces exceed the shear strength of the material. ey shear the in the material in but have low shear strength and so the , but I'd think

WHAT?

 

[rScotty]

WHAT?

Good catch! I didn't look at it before posting. Have another go and see if it makes more sense now.
rScotty - Going out in 18" of snow to start the 336D now...

 

[capt1989]

Clemsfor, I hear what you are saying about the stumps. About 5 out of 10 of them, the pine ones, I was able to put the box blade against and while keeping forward pressure, lift the blade and pop them out. Got a few with the FEL but the real stump puller is a 3000 lb pull winch welded to the front bumper and a 5 part block and tackle. After it pulls the tractor forward and sinks the FEL a bit, the stump usually gives... but not always. They have to be rotten for me to just push them out, I have no illusions about trying to with the little yanmar, no matter how much weight I stack on it.

Thanks for all the comment guys, keep them coming.

 

[capt1989]

rScotty, say I go to the hardware store to get some chain to make into tire chains... What size should I get. Never seen them before. I have a welder, or would it be easier to buy and modify car tire chains.

 

[clemsonfor]

rScotty, say I go to the hardware store to get some chain to make into tire chains... What size should I get. Never seen them before. I have a welder, or would it be easier to buy and modify car tire chains.

Im thinking car chains. But even on ebay, im thinking there a bit pricy, unless you can find some old used sets. Im thinking car chains are in the 70-100 range for a pair.

Scotty may not have noticed but like you in my area there is a lack of car chains around, especilly old used sets. We just dont have um laying around like some colder climates do! Heck you cant even buy them, but maybe once a year at an auto store MAYBE!