110V Electrical Question

/ 110V Electrical Question #41  
Thats correct ... not even outside. Couldn't fiqure that darn meter out, its a digital one and so many different setting's. Was also a little intimidated to be sticking those ends in places I wasn't sure I should be sticking them!!!

Maybe you should call a electrician.

This is nothing to be playing with if your not capable.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#42  
The white wire that is the neutral for the receptacles is not tied to the neutral buss bar. It looks as though it is tied to the box. Move that wire to the neutral buss bar.

I think it is ... if I am understanding you.
 

Attachments

  • 100_6190.JPG
    100_6190.JPG
    96.2 KB · Views: 151
/ 110V Electrical Question #43  
I work as a electrician and there is somthing wrong. Call your local contractor because he will be cheaper than the fire insurance claim that I hope never happens. I can not tell by the pictures but I think the neutral is floating at the source of the panel supply, not at the panel you have pics of.
Craig Clayton
 
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#44  
What is that white wire doing going to the bottom breaker?

That is going to the well ... The copper is on the bar, the black and white to the breaker.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Maybe you should call a electrician.

This is nothing to be playing with if your not capable.

Thanks Willl ... thats pretty darn sound advice!!
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #46  
I think it is ... if I am understanding you.

In the setup you have with your panel, each circuit is clasified as a main. You can legaly have up to six mains.

I would agree with an earlier poster as to a neutral issue. As for testing the incoming power with the meter, one lead would go on the neutral bus and the other would be on one of the screw terminals where the larger black wires enter the bottom of the breaker panel. You should have ~240 volts between the two terminals at the bottom of the breaker panel and ~120 volts from each to the neutral bus. As suggested, test this both with and without the heat lamps connected. I expect you will find that you have less than 120 volts to the neutral bus and the voltage will lower with the heat lamps connected. If I am correct, your issue is ahead of the breaker panel and an electrician will be required.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I work as a electrician and there is somthing wrong. Call your local contractor because he will be cheaper than the fire insurance claim that I hope never happens. I can not tell by the pictures but I think the neutral is floating at the source of the panel supply, not at the panel you have pics of.
Craig Clayton

I just got off the phone ... he's going to stop by tomorrow and trouble shoot this for me. Thanks I'll let you know the results.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#49  
In the setup you have with your panel, each circuit is clasified as a main. You can legaly have up to six mains.

I would agree with an earlier poster as to a neutral issue. As for testing the incoming power with the meter, one lead would go on the neutral bus and the other would be on one of the screw terminals where the larger black wires enter the bottom of the breaker panel. You should have ~240 volts between the two terminals at the bottom of the breaker panel and ~120 volts from each to the neutral bus. As suggested, test this both with and without the heat lamps connected. I expect you will find that you have less than 120 volts to the neutral bus and the voltage will lower with the heat lamps connected. If I am correct, your issue is ahead of the breaker panel and an electrician will be required.

Do you think I should also call the power company to have them check there end?
 
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#50  
It would really mess my noodle up if you got hurt/killed from my advice. :(

Probably would not do mine any good either ....
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #51  
I just got off the phone ... he's going to stop by tomorrow and trouble shoot this for me. Thanks I'll let you know the results.

Good choice. Now that I see the age of the equipment, and the troubleshooting you have done, it is time for the pros.

If it is a power company problem, the electrician will know pretty fast.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #52  
I just got off the phone ... he's going to stop by tomorrow and trouble shoot this for me. Thanks I'll let you know the results.

I agree with Craig's assessment. I suspect your electrician will find either a loose or corroded neutral in the meter panel or an issue with the feed from the electric company.


You may want to consider upgrading the panel if the cost isn't too high since you're going to pay for the service call any way.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #53  
I see a few problems with that panel that would concern me and with out actually being able to get a meter on it to check some of the connections, I'll echo what every one else has said, call a qualified electrician.

Don't play with fire (electricity) unless you know what you are doing.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #54  
Do you think I should also call the power company to have them check there end?

For now, let the electrician do his job of troubleshooting it. If it's on the power company's end he'll let you know and you can proceed from there.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #55  
It is unusual not to have a main beaker in the system

Is the panel a FPE panel? because they have been known to have problems.

I'm not 100% sure on the ground wire
I think I see one in the picture I marked up.


I would suggest you get some on in to change panel to a main beaker or add main breaker to it and have them diagnose and correct the problem

I still feel it is neutral/ground related or with the corrosion in the panel it could be the breaker connection on the buss
I would suggest you not mess with it with out being able to turn it off.


tom
 

Attachments

  • 100_6190a.jpg
    100_6190a.jpg
    115.2 KB · Views: 128
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#56  
It is unusual not to have a main beaker in the system

Is the panel a FPE panel? because they have been known to have problems.

I'm not 100% sure on the ground wire
I think I see one in the picture I marked up.


I would suggest you get some on in to change panel to a main beaker or add main breaker to it and have them diagnose and correct the problem

I still feel it is neutral/ground related or with the corrosion in the panel it could be the breaker connection on the buss
I would suggest you not mess with it with out being able to turn it off.


tom

Tom, The line that you marked ground is not the main ground that is the bare wire (neutral) to the well ...

Interesting that I see no good sized ground wire in the panel box HOWEVER there is a ground rod outside and a fairly good sized copper wire going into the bottom side of the meter box ... where it fastens in there ???? Shouldn't there be a ground coming out of the neutral bar to the driven in ground rod?
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #57  
Tom, The line that you marked ground is not the main ground that is the bare wire (neutral) to the well ...

Interesting that I see no good sized ground wire in the panel box HOWEVER there is a ground rod outside and a fairly good sized copper wire going into the bottom side of the meter box ... where it fastens in there ???? Shouldn't there be a ground coming out of the neutral bar to the driven in ground rod?


The ground could be tied in the meter socket but that isn't normal
but not having a main beaker isn't normal either either.

tom
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #58  
The ground could be tied in the meter socket but that isn't normal
but not having a main beaker isn't normal either either.

tom

Agreed, but not that uncommon for it's age. Either way, your electrician should advise you on what needs to be done to bring it up to current code and ensure that it is safe. If you have any doubts, feel free to ask for advice on his recommendations. You have at least three qualified electricians watching this thread and none of us have any reason to steer you in an unsafe direction.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Agreed, but not that uncommon for it's age. Either way, your electrician should advise you on what needs to be done to bring it up to current code and ensure that it is safe. If you have any doubts, feel free to ask for advice on his recommendations. You have at least three qualified electricians watching this thread and none of us have any reason to steer you in an unsafe direction.

Thank you to all ... I'll let ya know what he says, thought it would be late around 4:30 or 5 P.M.
 
/ 110V Electrical Question #60  
Thank you to all ... I'll let ya know what he says, thought it would be late around 4:30 or 5 P.M.

Works for me...

...here on the west coast, I won't even be off work yet.:D


Looking forward to hearing what he finds.
 

Marketplace Items

1997 JLG N40 Electric 40ft Articulating Boom Lift (A61567)
1997 JLG N40...
(2) UNUSED 14.9-24 TIRES W/6 LUG RIMS (A62130)
(2) UNUSED 14.9-24...
2007 JLG 600S SKYPOWER TELESCOPIC BOOM LIFT (A62129)
2007 JLG 600S...
UNUSED KUBOTA B2366 PIN ON QUICK ATTACH (A62130)
UNUSED KUBOTA...
2014 FREIGHTLINER CASCADIA 125 6X4 T/A MID ROOF SLEEPER TRUCK TRACTOR (A59908)
2014 FREIGHTLINER...
2005 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 (A62613)
2005 Ford Explorer...
 
Top