12V diverter valve

Artisan · Jun 11, 2012

The FASSE version has all the outlets on 1 face of the valve instead of two. Check out my GrappleOmatic thread for all the details...

heviduty · Jun 12, 2012

Nice work, Artisan. Looks like the regen ckt. is not a problem with a diverter once you know the trick. Wish I'd seen that before. I would much rather have the ability to feather the grapple than just turn it on and off.

Oh, well, we live and learn.

J_J · Jun 12, 2012

Can anyone verify whether you have feather if you go past regen into the power lever position.

I always thought feather mode was in the first part of lever movement, and if regen is in the first part of lever movement, the port is full open when you get to power mode.

Some valves have regen to full right, so regen/fast dump does not come in to play until you are way past feather.

CJONE · Jun 13, 2012

heviduty said:
Sorry for jumping in late, bigballer. If your LA463 has fast dump, you may want to rethink the diverter valve. Fast dump uses a regenerative circuit which I have been told can cause a diverter valve to lock up. You could, however, install it in the boom circuit, but I don't fancy the idea of switching circuits on a raised boom. After thinking it over, I decided to use a directional valve for my grapple circuit. If you do install the diverter, I'd be interested in hearing how it works for you. Best of luck.

Sorry I missed this. If the valve locks up because of the backpressure from the regen circuit all you have to do is unplug the vent port [I know the Baily valve has this] and run it to tank, most valves have a vent port for shifting to solve this very problem. CJ

dstig1 · Jun 13, 2012

My FEL has regen on dump and works just fine with the grapple. The grapple jaw acts much the same as the bucket in dump, I guess, as gravity is trying to close the grapple jaw, just like in dump mode on the bucket. Mine is set up with a diverter switch on the joystick, so I push the switch and then the curl/dump is open/close grapple (respectively). It may not work so well if you plumb it reverse of that - not sure. I can feather mine just fine in the first stage with no need to go into the second position on the dump movement.

Willl · Jun 14, 2012

I gave up trying to finagle the regen and swapped mine to the boom circuit. Just me.

J_J · Jun 14, 2012

Willl said:
I gave up trying to finagle the regen and swapped mine to the boom circuit. Just me.

Since the new system will not let me submit a single post, I am using this post to submit a post.

For those that have regen in the first part of lever movement, although you have fast operation, you also have much less force for work.

If you need max force on the grapple, you will have to go past regen on the lever, and way past feather. When you go past the soft stop, you are in full power mode, and slower.

I think the ideal regen setup. is regen after the soft stop, or far right.. If you don't need power but speed, slam the lever fully to the right

If you are trying to lift a heavy item, and you are in regen, you limit your hyd system to about 50 % of available force.

If your regen is to the far right, then you can have feather at full power/force.

bigballer · Jun 16, 2012

i installed the system last night splitting the curl circuit. it seems to work either way curl/arm up or curl arm/down. it does take a bit of getting used to as the sequence must go as follows - press button, move stick in direction you want, center stick, release button. sometimes i was releasing the button before centering the stick which caused the grapple to slightly dump or curl depending on which way i was going. i did notice the regen working against me though, if i didn't move the stick all the way past regen the arm would not move and other times it would move in the opposite direction i expected, if dump was raise arm it would lower arm. i am guessing this was the regen doing exactly as it is intended to do. moving past regen corrected the problem and again allowed the arm to raise as expected. i do have feathering on while lowering but not raising in this setup as expected..

bigballer · Jun 16, 2012

bigballer said:
i did notice the regen working against me though, if i didn't move the stick all the way past regen the arm would not move and other times it would move in the opposite direction i expected, if dump was raise arm it would lower arm. i am guessing this was the regen doing exactly as it is intended to do. moving past regen corrected the problem and again allowed the arm to raise as expected. i do have feathering on while lowering but not raising in this setup as expected..

i ran some more tests this morning after reversing the connection and now i have feather (on arm down) and it seems to be operating more consistently.. i am going to run with this set up today and see how if it works better for me..

bindian · Jun 16, 2012

bigballer said:
has anyone installed this for use with a grapple? looks like a bosch/rexroth..

Surplus Center - 12 VDC 13.2 GPM SAE 8 DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE

Yes. You can read about my installation in this thread.................http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/229883-hydraulic-auger-mount.html
hugs, Brandi

Mistyridgefarm · Jun 16, 2012

That's the way my JD 500 series loader works. Normal valve until full right, then the regen kicks in. I use a single acting cylinder on that port all the time for the hay rake with no problems.

heviduty · Jun 17, 2012

Looks like you got it figured out, bigballer. Regen will extend a cylinder no matter which way you connect it, so having curl open the grapple, and dump close the grapple lets it work for you, not against you. My concern was the valve sticking when under pressure clamped on something. Sounds like that is not a problem. I'm happy it worked out for you.

I'll just have to be quick on the switch when I need to move a tiny bit with my electrically actuated 4-way.

bigballer · Jun 19, 2012

heviduty said:
Looks like you got it figured out, bigballer. Regen will extend a cylinder no matter which way you connect it, so having curl open the grapple, and dump close the grapple lets it work for you, not against you. My concern was the valve sticking when under pressure clamped on something. Sounds like that is not a problem. I'm happy it worked out for you.

I'll just have to be quick on the switch when I need to move a tiny bit with my electrically actuated 4-way.

yes, so far so good, spent a couple hours grappling ove the weekend and it worked really well. i am going to swap out the switch for something a little less hard to push as my thumb was injured.

i have a general question on the wiring as mine is not permanantly wired in yet.. are guys wiring these directly to the battery using an inline fuse or wiring them into a key switched fuse on the electrical panel?

CJONE · Jun 19, 2012

bigballer said:
yes, so far so good, spent a couple hours grappling ove the weekend and it worked really well. i am going to swap out the switch for something a little less hard to push as my thumb was injured.

i have a general question on the wiring as mine is not permanantly wired in yet.. are guys wiring these directly to the battery using an inline fuse or wiring them into a key switched fuse on the electrical panel?

I would do the keyed option first. Less chance of a dead batt if something happens. CJ

heviduty · Jun 20, 2012

Mistyridgefarm said:
That's the way my JD 500 series loader works. Normal valve until full right, then the regen kicks in. I use a single acting cylinder on that port all the time for the hay rake with no problems.

Normal first makes more sense to me, but Kubota, at least on the LA463, has regen first then normal after detent at full right.

a1Sabrina97 · May 13, 2013

Did you ever get a valve? I'm looking to find one to use for a power angle blade adapted to my quick change 200CX loader. I am looking to use the bucket curl/dump control to angle the blade left and right. Any input appreciated

MtnViewRanch · May 13, 2013

a1Sabrina97 said:
Did you ever get a valve? I'm looking to find one to use for a power angle blade adapted to my quick change 200CX loader. I am looking to use the bucket curl/dump control to angle the blade left and right. Any input appreciated

I can set you up for $400-$500. Valve, Plumbing, hoses, fittings, control grip for your joystick. The whole deal.

a1Sabrina97 · May 14, 2013

MtnViewRanch can you give me any details of the system. Where's the valve mount? How's it tapped into the system?

MtnViewRanch · May 14, 2013

a1Sabrina97 said:
MtnViewRanch can you give me any details of the system. Where's the valve mount? How's it tapped into the system?

The diverter valve can mount where ever you want, normally on the loader tower. Unplug the curl cylinder lines, 2 new lines go from the QDs on the tractor to the valve. Existing 2lines that you unplugged, plug into the diverter. New lines run from the diverter out to the middle of the cross bar of the loader with another set of QDs. You get an actual control grip with a button to control the diverter that replaces your OEM loader grip-knob.

Pretty simple and an overall easy installation.