Traction $13.00 + 1 hour = EXCELLENT traction on ice!!!!!

[Wal]

From my brief experience with my "screwed up" tires, I would say it is not neccesary to leave the screws slightly unscrewed. I got VERY effective results with them screwed all the way in. I would be afraid the head of the screws might tend to "snap off" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif if they are extended. I don't want to do "vice-grip surgery" to get headless screws out /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[MadReferee]

re:
just the question i was going to ask. but leaving them sticking, would that not make them more liable to expell from the tire?

Not really. When you got a 5/8" or 1/2" screw you still got plenty of thread inside the rubber. Hey, if they didn't come out racing motorcycles they should not come out on a slow moving tractor.

A lot of tracks banned this setup because they gave way too much traction. I can remember one time at Ft. Devens the tech inspector made me screw every one in all the way before I could run the final. Good thing I had a battery operated drill.

BTW, the screws we used were #7.

 

[Golfgar4]

Of course, Wal, you realize that you have now opened the door for everyone to call you...... Screwy Wal ! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[keeney]

I would be concerned that with any significant amount of driving on pavement or concrete, the screw heads would wear off, flatten, or otherwise deform such that removing them becomes a very difficult task.

It might be better to just plan on leaving them in. When they wear down such that they are no longer effecitve, just put some more fresh ones in.

For shoes, I have found that a simple office stapler can do a pretty good job of increasing traction on ice. In high schoool, we once caught a guy cheating at broomball during phy-ed class that way.

- Rick

 

[Inspector507]

Motorcycle weighs a lot less than a tractor too. I'd screw them all the way in /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MadReferee]

I'd screw them all the way in too. The point I was trying to make was that you get much, much more traction if you leave them out just a little. I never advocated running screws on a tractor that were not in all the way. However, you can also get more traction by adding more screws.

As for the screws wearing down, I ran 3 seasons on the ice, probably 30-40 race dates in all, and the screws were only slightly worn. The hex drive bit still had no problem removing the screws. In fact, I still have a coffee can full of used screws that I occasionally use for stuff around the house. I'm sure running on concrete or asphalt will significantly reduce the lifespan of the screws.

 

[Wal]

Rick,

Luckily, I ONLY operate my tractor on either dirt or our gravel road. The only concrete would be my barn floor /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> Dang, wished I hadn't had to cut some lengh off those chains, maybe I could'a returned them Oh well, live and learn . </font>

Wal,

Glad to hear of your success with those screws.

I could not help but think that you might still be glad you have those chains if you have slopes you want to work the tractor on when it is wet in early spring or later fall.

In mud, those chains will surely give you traction where the screws will not. Right tool for the job, so to speak.

Don't know what your needs are, but you may find a time in the future that you are happy you have those chains! Don't feel too bad about not being able to send them back... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Hummm...I could not find the duo-grip style chains for my B2910...tire size is just slightly different from the B7500...wonder if they would fit my b2910...where did you say you lived? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Wal]

<font color="blue"> Hummm...I could not find the duo-grip style chains for my B2910...tire size is just slightly different from the B7500...wonder if they would fit my b2910...where did you say you lived? </font>

Heh, heh . . . . .oh it looks like its about 650 miles or so from me to you /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Just an easy one days drive /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif.
Seriously though, you may be very right about the chains being useful in the mud and muck. At least, thats what I'm tellin' the wife /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[RalphVa]

My wife and I went to the Sapporo ice festival in about 1993. ALL the cars there had 4 wheel studded snow tires. The streets and sidewalks were not cleared of snow and ice. People just walked and drove on it. No chains on any of the cars.

I don't like the clonk-clonk with the chains, and I definitely don't like them catching on non-moving parts.

I called and ordered the 4 ag tires today and plan to stick 2 screws in each lug when I get them. I'm also getting new rims. So, when it's high and dry (sometime in the future; hasn't been for near a year around here), I'll put the turfs back on.

Ralph

 

[Rip]

Glad to hear your "screwwed-up" tires have a good bite on ice... at least for a few days while the screw heads are "fresh".

For a long lasting solution, take a look at

"Trail Grabbers" at www.Bergstromskegs.com

These are tungston cabide-tipped 5/16 hex head self tapping screws available in 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4" length made for snowmobile tracks, but they show them also for use on ATV tires and boots. They are not cheap, at $0.80 each, but should outlast regular screws by a long shot.

Rip-on-the-Mountain

 

[mopar]

i was going to suggest that,we use them on our sleds work great you may lose a few at high speeds but your tractor most likely will not see those kinds of speeds.we have taken them out of one sled after a year and reused them in the next new sled

 

[wvhillbilly]

You did pretty good there with the screw idea. They actually make "Ice screws" for 4-wheelers. You can buy them in "Dennis Kirk" ATV catalog. The only difference is that the inside of the screw head is kinda cone shaped leaving the outer edge of the screw like a little round sharp blade to dig into the ice better. But a trip to the local home improvement center for sheet metal screws is even cheaper yet!! And we all like to save money!! Good job..
Dave

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> Here is a link to tha web page...they have hardened screws there too
</font>

The 5/8 hardened [heat treated] screws sell for $56.00 per thousand... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Wal]

<font color="blue">These are tungston cabide-tipped 5/16 hex head self tapping screws available in 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4" length made for snowmobile tracks, but they show them also for use on ATV tires and boots. They are not cheap, at $0.80 each, but should outlast regular screws by a long shot.
</font>

Gulp /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I guess if I lived in a serious "ice belt" part of the country I would consider your suggestion. According to my cal-ca-la-shuns, I could put in a fresh set of "Mr. Cheapy" screws every winter for 12 years. Last winter we didn't even have an ice situation like this year, so I can most likely even skip installation on those years I don't need them. Shoot, it will only take less than an hour for both rears now that I know the routine /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[rambler]

This thread has been really interesting. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

So, if you did live in an icebelt, you would spin enough with the mild steel screws that you won't have any heads to grip to remove.... It does not take much spinning on a pavement to round the heads right off. The tungston heads will last several years.

I'm also curious, do you use the same hole every year, or do you need to make a new set of holes in your tires every year?

Really interesting to follow this.

--->Paul

 

[Wal]

<font color="blue"> So, if you did live in an icebelt, you would spin enough with the mild steel screws that you won't have any heads to grip to remove.... It does not take much spinning on a pavement to round the heads right off. The tungston heads will last several years.

I'm also curious, do you use the same hole every year, or do you need to make a new set of holes in your tires every year?

Really interesting to follow this.

--->Paul </font>

Paul,

Glad you're enjoying it /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
The only pavement my tractor ever hits is parking it on the concrete floor of my barn. Otherwise, its on either dirt, snow, ice or our gravel road. As far as the longevity of the "Mr. Cheapy" screws, all I can say is that its a "work in progress" I will be taking them out as soon as I feel sure /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif that the ice is gone for the season. Depending on the screws condition, I will save them for next season and attempt to insert them into the old insertion points. I have no idea if I will even be able to find the old insertion points after using the tractor all summer and fall. All I know for now is, I'm lovin' it.

 

[Mike_Dumond]

They make hardened screws with dual tapered edges especially for traction. Check with a local ATV or Snowmobile dealer, they should have them or be able to get them. My brother uses them on his forklift at the Ski Doo shop. Takes them out in the spring and puts them on in the fall.

 

[Mike_Dumond]

Darn, that's what you get for not reading page two. Now I see the other references. Must be old age creaping in. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Trouser Bark]

Too keep screw heads or chains from chewing up concrete the guys around here do two things...

1) Never spin the tires on the concrete

2) Carpet. It'll eliminates the problem and you can roll it back up to where the tractor is parked when you hop off.