14" Dry chop saws - any recommendations?
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BigBoyToys
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As others have said can't beat a Horz bandsaw. I've cut everything from 1/4" 3" square stock to rebar for a building I just formed and had the mono slab poured this week.
I grabbed one at HF on sale and used a 20% off coupon. Paid around $200...great deal.
I grabbed one at HF on sale and used a 20% off coupon. Paid around $200...great deal.
CNC Dan
Veteran Member
The part will stay cool, yes. But that's not what a true 'coldsaw' is at 1300 RPM. Typically coldsaws run at around 60 to 150 rpm, and have a sump with coolant pump. And they are crazy expensive.
https://coldsawbladestore.com/cold-saw-blade-guide/
Big Barn
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dragoneggs
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I use a Dewalt 14in chop saw with an abrasive blade. Does make a mess and would like to figure out some kind of collection chute for it. Recently bought a Milwaukee port-a-bandsaw and a SWAG offroad table to mount it vertically. Added a foot switch and I love the little unit and it's portability.
BethelHntr
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Hows that dry cut saw do for cutting straight? My dewalt abrasive saw never cuts straight or square, It has such a thin blade.
It cuts perfectly straight as the blade does not flex like an abrasive one does. The cuts are cleaner as well you don't need to dress the edges with a grinder after the cut. I have had mine nearly a year and am on the same blade. The blades are not cheap but they seem to last a long time if you don't have a gorilla pushing too hard on them. It doesn't make all the fine dust like a abrasive saw but still makes a mess with the cuttings but they don't go everywhere like an abrasive saw dust. It is pretty loud when cutting.
I liked it so much I also bought a Milwaukee dry cut metal circular saw. It works great too. You can use it to cut through metal tubing just like a regular circular saw through 2x4's.
I liked it so much I also bought a Milwaukee dry cut metal circular saw. It works great too. You can use it to cut through metal tubing just like a regular circular saw through 2x4's.
Teachu2
Platinum Member
Agreed - common misuse of the term. Google 12" makita cold saw and see what you get. Also 12" makita carbide metal saw
Big Barn
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If not already, try using a light "chopping" action as opposed to constant pressure. This doesn't allow the blade to deflect as bad as well as allowing it to cool somewhat prolonging blade life. Terry
Edit: referring to abrasive blades.
PILOON
Super Star Member
I bought the Makita 12" saw used from a pawn shop some 12 years ago.
You simply can't kill that beast! Paid $40.00 I believe.
Since most want the 14" version the local rental saves me all the slightly warn 14" blades and I get them for $1.00 ea. which is one great bonus.
Most folks do not realize that the same motor is used in the 12 as in the 14 so the 12 is much more HD, besides with techniques I do as much with my 12 as most folks dream of doing with the 14.
\One major consideration is the blades you use. Some are definitely better than others and price is not necessarily your guide. Only tests can prove it to you.
Thinner is not always better as well as the thin blade often deflects and makes a skewed cut.
The enemy is heat. Cut heavy gauge stock and it suddenly goes nowhere. Let it cool and go at it again and results are good.
You simply can't kill that beast! Paid $40.00 I believe.
Since most want the 14" version the local rental saves me all the slightly warn 14" blades and I get them for $1.00 ea. which is one great bonus.
Most folks do not realize that the same motor is used in the 12 as in the 14 so the 12 is much more HD, besides with techniques I do as much with my 12 as most folks dream of doing with the 14.
\One major consideration is the blades you use. Some are definitely better than others and price is not necessarily your guide. Only tests can prove it to you.
Thinner is not always better as well as the thin blade often deflects and makes a skewed cut.
The enemy is heat. Cut heavy gauge stock and it suddenly goes nowhere. Let it cool and go at it again and results are good.