1920 Cranks - Won't Fire

   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire #31  
Here are some pictures of the filter. I have the same machine and this is the position I run mine in. I resntly changed the filter and used the the filter bracket to purge the air, with the valve opened. I lost about a tablespoon of fuel.
This one started as if nothing had happened after the filter change.
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And the air cleaner
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   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire #32  
Why does the shutoff have 2 on positions...weird.
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire
  • Thread Starter
#33  
JC - Me no mess with fuel pump timing. Beyond my pay grade! The solenoid could be a suspect but it must be working fine if I'm getting fuel to the injectors.

That is my setup - Two on positions on the fuel selector. Don't know why two either but presently mine is in the 12 oclock position, not 9 oclock as your is. I don't remember which it was set at but on mine there is an off position as well. I will set to 9 oclock and see if what happens. The manual indicates the 12 oclock position in their pictures.

I've read up on testing the glow plug and that will be a step I take at some point. Upon reading the purpose of the GP, it simply heats the combustion chamber, but I've never really had to use it before in these mild climates out here. Nonetheless, the testing seems fairly simple and within my pay grade.

Appreciate the group help on this one. I've got some holes to drill!
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire #34  
Todd,

I remember that you said the spray pattern is good, so solenoid is operating like it should. Since timing was not messed up with, things should be about the same before you changed the filter. pull staring and you'll be making a bunch more heat due to friction of the rings against the cylinder walls in a much more robust manner than starter. Obviously you want to avoid damage to the pricey starter. Got nothing to lose by pull starting for sure.

Good luck,

JC,

as far as two on's, I have seen a shut off valve with a kind of 4 way valve where the porting allows a "normal on" that is may be 1" from the bottom of a fuel vessels and then there is an "emergency on" position that porting allows it to flow fuel in between 1" to .5" elevation and depending the foot print might translate to some gallons of emergency fuel. I'm not sure but would it be a emergency by-pass to allow fuel with fully clogged fuel filter? I'm speculating here.
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire #35  
How much black smoke do you get when cranking? Is it really thick black smoke, or mostly see-through? Does throttle position make any difference at all? I have yet to see a Diesel smoke black that *isn't* building enough heat for combustion since that should result in white/light gray smoke.

I would suspect, based on what I've read so far, that it isn't getting enough fuel for whatever reason especially since it ran fine before the fuel filter was changed. If the black smoke is heavy - i.e. can't see through it, then it probably is getting enough fuel and hard telling what the problem is (restricted intake would come to mind but sounds like that is not the case here). Good luck and keep us updated.
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire
  • Thread Starter
#36  
I wouldn't call it thick black - more like semi transparent black. I'm going to get my wife or daughter to pull me around for a spell today and see if I can't bring her to life. I'm beginning to wonder if maybe some or all of the injectors are plugged up or fouled in some way. I'll post an update after the big tractor pull!
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire
  • Thread Starter
#37  
OK Guys, My wife as it turn's out, is a wonderful tractor puller in the Jeep Rubicon. She pulled me along in 4th/3rd and the tractor stack was spitting out some awfully white smoke and after perhaps 1/4 mile or less she sputtered to life. After she caught the smoke turned black then cleared up out of the stack and I ran her up the hill and torque and power seemed fine. Sounded like she was running on all four.

When I got up the house, there was smoke, not thick and more like a thick vapor coming out of the tube that dumps out of the top of the manifold and runs down to below the engine block. It was dripping oil, not alot while the vapor, which I assume is burning oil spewed out of the manifold tube. The smoke out of the stack was clean, no problems there. Perhaps I got water in the oil and should change it out or is something worse going on?

It idled fine, revved up fine and again, power and torque seem fine. When I first start her up, the stack smoke is thick black for a few seconds then clears up, but I remember that always being the case on start up. It does seem to not catch fire as quickly as she used to. Now it takes a few seconds cranking whereas before she caught quickly within 2 seconds.
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Another Update - After letting the tractor sit for a while and cool down, I went back out to test a cold start up and she took alot of cranking, required full throttle to get her going. Something is definitely not right. Still smoke and oil drips coming out of the intake manifold breather tube. Ring's shot?
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire #39  
deffinately faster revs.. saves the starter too
 
   / 1920 Cranks - Won't Fire #40  
How is the battery and the connections? After all the misery you've had, could it be weak? That would slow the start.
 

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