1920 Cranks - Won't Fire

[jinman]

Todd, at least you seem to be making progress. I don't know if your problem is bad fuel, moisture, or something mechanical, but you ARE making progress. That has to feel good after this long. A running tractor is easier to diagnose problems than one that won't start. If things don't normalize soon, you'll have to move to the next step.

This is really a stretch, but do you suppose you might have had a hydraulic lock that relieved itself by breaking a ring? If so, a compression test should spot the faulty cylinder. In the meantime, I'll keep my fingers crossed that it is something a lot simpler.:thumbsup:

 

[JC-jetro]

Todd,

That's good progress so far. I'd myself would empty and store all the fuel in the tank for some other uses, say stating a burn pile or something. I'd make sure I have a chore that last couple of few hrs. Put new fuel in the tank and go to work non-stop for few hrs to get all contaminant , moisture out of the system and observe to see if same problems as you mentioned occur or not.


JC,

 

[DieselMonk]

white smoke sounds like there is not enough compression for what reason ever, or burning water from the inside. A stuck and dripping / squirting injector also could be making hard starts. Do a coolant pressure test before you rip stuff apart, then go deeper into things like a compression test on every cylinder etc. As for the starter not spinning fast enough, could be tired starter, cabling to and from the starter, and of course a weak (sulphated) battery.

 

[billfires]

Todd, any updates? Curious to see what the problem was. Bill C

 

[toddwulf]

Sorry guys, been busy around here. Per suggested and original thoughts on a fix, here is what I have done:

R&R Fuel Filter
R&R Oil and Filter
Fixed leaking fuel return lines from manifold and fuel pump
R&R Fuel - Drained and put fresh 5 gallons in
Ran tractor after drag start for about an hour and still spit out oil vapor at the breather tube

Not Done yet:
Water pressure test - How does one do this one and is it designed to check for a head leak?
Compression test - Reticent to remove injectors at this point. Can I use my gas engine compression tester for this?
Battery/Starter - The electrical seems OK - I'm bypassing at this point
Check voltage at glow plug. Again, I rarely have used GP in the past. Not tested yet.

I plan on running it harder and longer this weekend drilling some holes that need to be done before I call in a diesel mechanic to diagnose and fix. Will post an update if I can pry myself away from the playoff's this weekend to get a few hours in. Go Niners!

The symptom

 

[Jerry/MT]

Sorry guys, been busy around here. Per suggested and original thoughts on a fix, here is what I have done:

R&R Fuel Filter
R&R Oil and Filter
Fixed leaking fuel return lines from manifold and fuel pump
R&R Fuel - Drained and put fresh 5 gallons in
Ran tractor after drag start for about an hour and still spit out oil vapor at the breather tube

Not Done yet:
Water pressure test - How does one do this one and is it designed to check for a head leak?
Compression test - Reticent to remove injectors at this point. Can I use my gas engine compression tester for this?
Battery/Starter - The electrical seems OK - I'm bypassing at this point
Check voltage at glow plug. Again, I rarely have used GP in the past. Not tested yet.

I plan on running it harder and longer this weekend drilling some holes that need to be done before I call in a diesel mechanic to diagnose and fix. Will post an update if I can pry myself away from the playoff's this weekend to get a few hours in. Go Niners!

The symptom

The oil out the breather tube is a sign of excessive blow by. I'd think a compression check was due: worn or broken ring (s), burned or cracked piston crown, etc.

 

[toddwulf]

Well I ran the 1920 for a little over four hours today with the auger and sure enough, she still smokes out of the breather tube so there is definately a ring or piston issue. Been studying up the manual and a top end job looks easy enough. I suspect a compression test will tell if it's one or more pistons. If I redo the rings in one, should I do them all and do anything else while I'm in there.

 

[JC-jetro]

Well I ran the 1920 for a little over four hours today with the auger and sure enough, she still smokes out of the breather tube so there is definately a ring or piston issue. Been studying up the manual and a top end job looks easy enough. I suspect a compression test will tell if it's one or more pistons. If I redo the rings in one, should I do them all and do anything else while I'm in there.

Todd,

Issue might lie in your valve/seat and or piston ring. I don't think a compression will tell the difference other than not achieving the right psi. Once you pull the head you might be able to tell better. The oil being burned might be due to crankcase oil traveling passed the rings or from the oil migrating from the head area (rocker shaft lubrication) in to the combustion chamber. You'll be able to drop the pan , along with removing the head to do the ring job without taking the engine off. I hope your issue lies with a bad head gasket. I'd personally do all the rings even if I needed to replace one only.

JC,

 

[Jerry/MT]

Todd,

Issue might lie in your valve/seat and or piston ring. I don't think a compression will tell the difference other than not achieving the right psi. Once you pull the head you might be able to tell better. The oil being burned might be due to crankcase oil traveling passed the rings or from the oil migrating from the head area (rocker shaft lubrication) in to the combustion chamber. You'll be able to drop the pan , along with removing the head to do the ring job without taking the engine off. I hope your issue lies with a bad head gasket. I'd personally do all the rings even if I needed to replace one only.

JC,

Wet and dry compression testing can help sort out a leaking valve/ burned piston from worn rings. (You'll need a diesel compression tester because the pressure will normally be between 400 and 500 psi except on the bad cylinder(s). HF has them.) After running the compression test dry with an engine at operating temperature, you squirt several ounces of lube oil in each cylinder and immediately repeat the test. If the compression rises, rings are the problem. If there is no change, then a burned valve or a burned or cracked piston is the problem. Regardless of what the problem is, at that point, the head has to come off so you can verify whether it's a valve or a piston. It's not uncommon for a leaky injector to burn the piston crown.

 

[JC-jetro]

Wet and dry compression testing can help sort out a leaking valve/ burned piston from worn rings. (You'll need a diesel compression tester because the pressure will normally be between 400 and 500 psi except on the bad cylinder(s). HF has them.) After running the compression test dry with an engine at operating temperature, you squirt several ounces of lube oil in each cylinder and immediately repeat the test. If the compression rises, rings are the problem. If there is no change, then a burned valve or a burned or cracked piston is the problem. Regardless of what the problem is, at that point, the head has to come off so you can verify whether it's a valve or a piston. It's not uncommon for a leaky injector to burn the piston crown.

Good Info Jerry, I wish Todd had a less non invasive option. I agree the head has to come off first before going further after a compression test.

jc,