OP
Homestead Blue
Bronze Member
It's just a single wire.
1964 Ford 2000 Parking Brake??
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Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
then just a wire from the charge stud to bat hot.
that's all the wires needed to run... ez pezy...
that's all the wires needed to run... ez pezy...
OP
Homestead Blue
Bronze Member
I think I'll go that route. I read your reply in another post about incorporating a charge light in there. Does that complicate things terribly?
OP
Homestead Blue
Bronze Member
Alright, so my Dad came over today to lend a hand with the electrical. What I didn't notice before, because I wasn't reading the meter while turning it over, was that the battery voltage is dropping almost in half. Now that I know that, I can hear how slow the motor is turning. We jumped off my car's battery to a different ground, bypassing the tractor battery altogether, and everything changed. So I'm getting a lot of resistance through rusted/dirty connections, especially the main ground. Also, we noticed no ground out of the distributor, the points were corroded. After some light cleaning and the new, temporary, ground I was able to get a spark, but very weak. I'm still with you Soundguy on running the new wires, but either way I have to get a good ground. So next step is to go back to cleaning contacts and running new wires.
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OP
Homestead Blue
Bronze Member
The lights all get their ground from the mounts right? So all they need is one hot wire coming from a switch right? Kind of like a trailer?
Soundguy
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- 51,575
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I like running seperate light grounds to the mounts.
I also lil running a separate bat ground to one of the mount ears on the starter
I also lil running a separate bat ground to one of the mount ears on the starter
OP
Homestead Blue
Bronze Member
I can run separate grounds, the wire I'm using is two conductor anyway. What about the charging indicator light? I didn't really follow you in that other post I found where you were talking about it.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Used on a 3 wire setup. You have a 1 wire. However SOME 1 wire alts can be ran as 3 wire.
Charge stud to bat, you already got.
Make a short jumper with a female spade terminal and a ring terminal.
Pry out the little rubber cap that covers 2 male spades marked 1 & 2
Jump 2 too charge stud with the jumper you made.
Now, wire from the coil side of the ignition key switch to a instrument lamp using something like a 194 lamp, the other lamp wire goes to #1
Key on, engine not running should light lamp
After startup, and rpm over 400, lamp should go out and alt charge.
If so, it is running lil a 3 wire, low rpm turn on.
If the lamp does not go out till you gun the throttle to 800+ ( and then stays out), then it I running as 1 wire, self exciting.
Charge stud to bat, you already got.
Make a short jumper with a female spade terminal and a ring terminal.
Pry out the little rubber cap that covers 2 male spades marked 1 & 2
Jump 2 too charge stud with the jumper you made.
Now, wire from the coil side of the ignition key switch to a instrument lamp using something like a 194 lamp, the other lamp wire goes to #1
Key on, engine not running should light lamp
After startup, and rpm over 400, lamp should go out and alt charge.
If so, it is running lil a 3 wire, low rpm turn on.
If the lamp does not go out till you gun the throttle to 800+ ( and then stays out), then it I running as 1 wire, self exciting.
OP
Homestead Blue
Bronze Member
Ok, I'll try it, thanks!!
OP
Homestead Blue
Bronze Member
Hey Soundguy,
You know what I realized today? My 2000 has an ammeter in place of the fuel gauge, so I actually don't need the light right, because it'll show me when it's charging? Is that correct? Would you still go with a light and replace the ammeter with a fuel gauge? I have the fuel sender in the back of the tank. I think that would be important too. I just hadn't really noticed till today when I was running new wires. On that front, I put my meter across my solenoid and determined I'm losing a lot of power there, so I'm going to drop a new one in. All new wires/connectors, a cleaned up ground, and a new solenoid should solve all my power issues!
You know what I realized today? My 2000 has an ammeter in place of the fuel gauge, so I actually don't need the light right, because it'll show me when it's charging? Is that correct? Would you still go with a light and replace the ammeter with a fuel gauge? I have the fuel sender in the back of the tank. I think that would be important too. I just hadn't really noticed till today when I was running new wires. On that front, I put my meter across my solenoid and determined I'm losing a lot of power there, so I'm going to drop a new one in. All new wires/connectors, a cleaned up ground, and a new solenoid should solve all my power issues!
