1969 JD 1020 diesel

[PNW1020D]

Thank you very much Tx Jim. That is what I later thought after reading the post below from another fellow you helped out.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-ag-tractors/335217-jd-1640-2040-2240-rockshaft.html

My manuals, and online do not have the diagram that you attached for my 1020. Your diagram, and the previous post show another rod in the linkage. What are parts numbers 7, 17,18? My 1020 doesn't have them?

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Knocked out the load control shaft o-rings, seals, and new outer shaft bushings. I put the white plastic seals into boiling water, and installed them. I cannot believe how difficult it was. I used a blunt object to install them but I still beat the **** out of them during the install process. It doesn't show any leaks after the shaft is back in place, but I am skeptical due to my mangling. With the thrust washers installed, it looks like there will be zero play.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sorry for confusion but there's a meaning to my madness! IMHO that particular incorrect schematic makes explanation of correct location of cam follower in linkage much easier to explain & for reader to understand.

The reason you don't see items 7,17 & 18 is due to the fact that the schematic I posted is for a model JD utility tractor built for sales in European countries not N America. I chose that schematic because it shows correct location off cam follower in RS linkage that to my knowledge isn't shown for tractors built for sales in N. America.

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you Sensei. Lol

I really do appreciate the fact the you posted that diagram, and I found it in the other thread, because it was the only way the "click" moment happened for me working this past Sunday.

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Do I need to apply any permatex sealant or similar to the rockshaft housing gasket and mating surfaces?

I also really want to try and drive the roll pin out of the rear PTO lever, and replace the o-ring. I am just staring at it, and I want to fix the leak. The thread below from yesterdaystractors says its an "ornery" job haha, but doable with needle nose pliers? Its really tight in there....I am worried I'll drop the roll pin and lose it in the case.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1356856

 

[PNW1020D]

Hey all.

Ok, well you were right Tx. Jim. I couldn't get the roll pin punched out for the PTO engagement lever, so I couldn't replace the o-ring. I had long punches, short punches, long and curved needle nose pliers. It just wouldn't budge.

I finally moved on after staring at the wall, and cussing, and saying to myself how much I don't want to split the tractor to fix this small leak. Usually I cannot do this. If I know, or see something that is broken, I have to fix it.

Blah blah blah, everything is back together, minus installing the new rear rims/tires. It seems all the R/R has paid off, as the 3pt no longer bleeds off, and it seems to hold position better, no more floating, etc. Load control shaft doesn't leak (yet), and the rock shaft splined arm leak is gone as well.

Here is the question. I bought these male aux. hydraulic fittings to fit into my rear remotes (Pioneer VP5060-4 hyd tip for 1/2'' NPT hose). They don't fit? What are the proper ones to use with my old JD style rear remote ports?

Thank you in advance all!!! I want to get my 3pt hydraulic top link going.

 

[Tx Jim]

In order for those CORRECT male tips to be installed one must slide the barrels(item 6) rearward in cast housing so the retaining balls can spread out wide enough to accept male tips.

 

[PNW1020D]

HAHAHAHAHA!!!! I knew I was probably missing something, and you in fact led me in the right direction. :thumbsup::laughing:

Ok, so I got the left one to function as you described. I will try again this morning on the other side.

Thank you sir for all your help!!! I am going to go through the 3pt adjustment procedures today as well, see if I can get that dialed in.

 

[Tx Jim]

Please send some rolls of toilet paper!!!!!:drink:

 

[Zebrafive]

Also, the lever on the bottom must be moved to depress the ball or poppet of the male tip and ball of female coupler.
The lever has to be turned 90° from parallel to the hose. Counter intuitive. JD should have made them so when the lever is parallel to the hose you have flow, not turned 90°.

The "post" of the lever has indents )( for the balls of the couplers when parallel to the hoses.
Off topic; the posts of these levers leaked on my 2030. I have replaced the O-rings at least 3-4 times.

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you very much Tx Jim and Zebrafive for the clarification(s). I was able to get the hoses installed and the new hydraulic top link going.

Your post Zebrafive was perfect for me to understand what was going on. I looked at my manuals as well. I will try to do a better job of searching/reading my manuals before I post specific questions to you all. But truly, I appreciate all the support and willingness to help.

You tell me where to send some Tx Jim!!!! I will get them coming!!! :thumbsup::laughing:
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And here we go with more questions....

So I got the new rims and tires installed on the tractor. I installed them the exact way the old ones were done, and now I think I have made a mistake?

I don't know exactly what to call my style of rims (even after researching the JD parts catalog) but I am looking for clarification on the assembly that bolts the inner rims to the outer barrel. I have a square head bolt, nut, and these wedge style attachment clamps.

Here is a picture of how mine were, and are installed after I got the new tires and outer rim barrels.

I have the nuts showing on the outside. So the square head bolt goes through the wedge, and through the inner rim from the backside.

Per the picture below I got from another forum, are mine 100% backwards? Does it matter?

Per my research the part #(s) are as follows:

1. Square head bolt- 08H4694
2. Nut- 14H800
3. Clamp- A4388R

 

[beenthere]

How about a close-up pic of what/how you installed them?