1969 JD 1020 diesel

[PNW1020D]

Thank you for the replies. I really appreciate your input and knowledge.

Tx. Jim and BukitCase, can you please dumb it all down for me lol? I am lost. Any guess on the weight of a model 47 loader? Or total approximate weight of my 1020D ballasted with the 47 loader?

Thank you for getting back to me Zebrafive. You can click on the images to enlarge them if that provides any clarity at all? With that being said, I will try to explain what I see (please excuse my terminology).

(Working from the FEL control block back)

1) Two hoses leave the FEL control block
2) These same two hoses connect or are plumbed directly into the side (outside face) of the SCV block.
3) Then I see one hard line that exits the bottom front of the SCV block and makes a connection to an area "just behind" my filter cover???
4) The yellow hard line that is shown then runs up to the front of my tractor and connects to my main hydraulic pump.
5) Here is what I believe is my "already" ported filter cover? What line gets connected into that "port", and what are the benefits, etc.? Knowledge please HAHA!!!

Thank you in advance!!!

 

[Tx Jim]

Routing FEL control valve return oil to ported filter cover puts return oil back into hyd oil charge circuit much quicker than any other method of returning oil. This will give the fastest FEL reaction time. It appears your FEL valve is supplied oil via the side of the SCV housing(see photo below).

 

[BukitCase]

Jim - "are you intending to hold lever of added valve while operating tractor scv control lever?"

No, there's no need - those valves stay in whichever position you put 'em. There are 6 ports total - no special "guts", each set of 3 ports act the same as an electrical 3-wire toggle switch. If we call one set of ports A, B, C then ONE position of the lever connects A-B, the other connects C-B. So if you plumb ONE (original) remote QD into B, then install QD's into ports A and C, those become your two choices of where that original port connects - Plumb the OTHER half of the selector the same way (using the OTHER original remote port going to B) and now, instead of having ONE pair of remotes to run ONE cylinder, you can move the selector lever to its OTHER position and operate a SECOND cylinder.

When you switch that selector to the OTHER pair of ports, it DEADHEADS the ports you LEFT; so, for example, if you're running a hydraulic toplink on ONE set and you switch the selector to run the hydraulic SIDE link, the toplink cylinder is blocked and won't change position.

AFAIK, a cylinder you connect to that pair of remotes would see pressure on ONE of its ports, and exhaust back thru the OTHER port; pushing the remote lever the OTHER way should just reverse which end of the cylinder gets pressure.

If all that is true, then anything you hook up to that original pair of QD's should work the same whether the tractor is open center or closed (like many JD's seem to be)

PNW, sorry for any confusion - a "closed center" system like your JD has a different type of pump than an "open center" system - in general terms, a closed center pump only moves hydraulic fluid when you "ask" for it by moving ANY control lever - in an "open center" system, the pump CONTINUALLY pumps fluid, but it just goes through each valve in the system WITHOUT GENERATING PRESSURE, because the "off" positions of ALL valves in that system is just a BYPASS; so the continual flow of fluid just keeps getting pumped from the sump (tank) thru the pump and back again, until you move a lever. When you move a lever, that valve's spool shifts, and redirects fluid flow to whatever that valve operates - that is the ONLY time an open center system generates any more pressure than just enough to keep the fluid recirculating.

From what I've read, pumps for closed center systems tend to cost more, but supposedly LAST longer - Jim can likely answer THAT for you considering his background - but for your purposes, it's probably immaterial unless you have or get a machine that's open center.

There used to be a couple tutorials floating around on the Hydraulics forum here, but I haven't seen 'em "float to the surface" in awhile - you might try searching THAT forum using JUST the word "tutorial" (more words just muddy the water, and make you look at 100 unrelated posts)

In the meantime, this freebie gets a bit deep, but if you're stubborn enough it'll start to make sense

http://www.derijcke.com/dl/manual.pdf

HTH... Steve

 

[Tx Jim]

Steve
Thanks for explanation on the operation of valve in your link. I didn't realize control handle was detented in 1 position or the other. Yes closed center pumps can operate for many hrs. My JD 4255 has over 11,000 hrs on speed-hour meter & hyd pump has never been touched since it was installed on tractor assembly line. I'll probably JINX that fact by posting this info.

 

[Zebrafive]

It does look like your loader valve is supplied off the out side of the SCV. Top is return, bottom, supply.

JD made a "Return to filter kit" for the SCV(s). It has plugs for the return normally used on the inboard SCV cover, and a hose to the ported sump cover. My two SCVs have this kit.


I could not tell if you have a priority valve (yellow line from front pump would hook to it) The a line from it,would go to the SCV, you show that line boxed in red. The Tee at the priority valve is how my loader is supplied.

I see no need to change your supply.


I would move your return to the ported cover.

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you all very much for the help.

I believe lol? I have tackled this. It may not be as clean as the factory install but it does work.

I ran the tractor with the new routing and I could actually tell a difference!!! It was noticeable to me while using the box blade and the FEL to grade an area in the pasture. I did feel there was better "action" in the FEL. And also, the entire time our family has had this tractor (shoot 20 years now) and since I have really been running it, I would always notice that if I went to open the control valve wide open to raise the bucket the hydraulics would "chatter"when the bucket would get to 75% max dump height, and I would have to back off. That symptom is now completely gone.

Zebrafive, since you mentioned that I didn't need to change my supply, or you thought it wasn't necessary, I didn't. I retained the two quick disconnects so that if I ever need to, or decide to drop the FEL, I still can with more ease, etc. It def. seems that I do in fact have a priority valve? Also, my "inboard" ports on my SCV that supply your FEL, on my 1020d supply/route to my two and only rear aux. ports that I plan to add a hydraulic top link to (one day...). Is this wrong? What happens if I use my "lever" to operate my rear aux. ports for my eventual top link? Does that mean the FEL no longer can be used/doesn't have hydraulic power? How do I add another set of rear aux. ports with my current hydraulic routing/plumbing system?

What do you think Tx. Jim? There must be a simply bolt in way? I just don't understand how my single aux. "lever" will be able to run two sets of rear aux. ports? Is there like a selector valve that must be added, to therefore divide each set of rear aux. ports, so the lever is only acting on one circuit at a time?

Anyways, check it out. Here are some before and after photos. Sorry, I don't know why the thumbnails aren't the right orientation. If you click of them, they are correct.



Finally, I was wondering? How would one go about adding a third function to my FEL? Is it as simply as teeing into my supply and return lines, and then adding a third spool section? I will need to take some pictures of my existing FEL control block. So I can pick your brains further.

What do you all think? Experiences? I wonder how I would have to modify my existing bucket? Meaning, welding on the two top grapple arms. Or maybe modifying a new grapple bucket to fit my model 47 framework?

Thank you all in advance for all the help and knowledge.

 

[Tx Jim]

Simplest,cheapest method to add extra hyd control circuits would be to add a 2 or 3 spool closed center valve mounted on a bracket bolted to axle housing plumbed into existing pressure/return ports. You could add 1 more SCV similar to original SCV by sandwiching valve body to existing SCV body but the valve bodies are fairly expensive even used.

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you for getting back to me Tx. Jim.

So if I understand what you are saying, that would mean that I could use the return port on the side of my SCV that I just plugged off, and route the new return line there for my future third function? Then I could either "T" into the the hard line that runs from my SCV to my priority valve as as Zebrafive described for my supply, or just "T" off the line that currently supplies my FEL. Right?

So I would in theory have this 2 or 3 spool closed center valve "block"(?) bolted to my rear axle(with what, U-bolts?), with lines as described above routing to it. Then another sets of lines that would route to my current location of my FEL 2 handle control block? Would there be a third handle there then for my grapple function?

Here is what my control block for my FEL currently looks like.



I am sorry, really gotta dumb it down for me :newhere: "Learning"

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds as if you have hyd's "figured out"!

 

[BukitCase]

Here's an example of a dual selector hookup - this one's on my Allis 160. Eventually (already have all the parts, waiting for time) I'll replace that with a 4 stack PB valve, to be inserted between the original remote and the 3PH (this will give me FIVE remotes, the 4 new ones will be 2 normal spring center and 2 with added float. I already need THREE remotes at times, and long term plans include a fully articulated back blade.

The side tilt cylinder has a 10" stroke, and allows my 7' Gannon box to be more than a foot higher or lower than level. It's already proven itself in re-contouring a 60' long area to drain AWAY from 2 shipping containers instead of TOWARD them.

Here's a marked up pic that will (hopefully) make sense... Steve

Couple other shots from different angles -



They look different due to keeping hoses controlled, plus I ALWAYS want the hyd toplink so there's no QD's on that line...

Oh, with your curved fenders TxJim's mount makes the most sense - a "pod" coming up from the axle, if you want the controls where you can actually USE 'em, might need a brace from the stiffest part of the fender to minimize wobble... Steve