1969 JD 1020 diesel
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I didn't pressurize the system as Tx. Jim mentioned earlier in this thread, before I took the head off. Shame on me for being uneducated.
That being said,
I see antifreeze drips all around the liners and remnants that is has been leaking around them for some time.
So while I am in there, I told myself to do it right, and R&R everything.
The flat stock metal I used as a top plate for my liner puller started to bend before the liner moved.
I have increased the thickness of the flat stock and will try one more time after work tonight.
That being said,
I see antifreeze drips all around the liners and remnants that is has been leaking around them for some time.
So while I am in there, I told myself to do it right, and R&R everything.
The flat stock metal I used as a top plate for my liner puller started to bend before the liner moved.
I have increased the thickness of the flat stock and will try one more time after work tonight.
I was able to remove the liners. With patience, lots of it.
Now please see the horror.
It seems that we have some major cavitation going on and I need to address this issue.
I know the best would be to split the tractor and have a machine shop try and save the block but I just don't have the resources to perform such a task, and honestly its not like I make my living with this machine so its hard for me to justify.
Or tell me I am wrong in that thinking?
I have read about an epoxy fix? Fill holes and sand smooth, repeat process?
Any advice, knowledge, or past experiences would be great.
Now please see the horror.
It seems that we have some major cavitation going on and I need to address this issue.
I know the best would be to split the tractor and have a machine shop try and save the block but I just don't have the resources to perform such a task, and honestly its not like I make my living with this machine so its hard for me to justify.
Or tell me I am wrong in that thinking?
I have read about an epoxy fix? Fill holes and sand smooth, repeat process?
Any advice, knowledge, or past experiences would be great.
Please see the following excerpt from another tractor forum. I am confused on what liner design I have?
Do I have an older block that was made for only one black square cut o-ring at the bottom?
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"There has a been a lot of confusion over the years with sleeves in those engines - even with some Deere dealers. Shouldn't be, but there is.
You need to either go by the engine block #s, or pull apart and see what's inside. It goes like this.
All are wet-sleeves.
Early engines only had one seal per sleeve - a black o-ring that goes on the sleeve when you install it. These sleeves no longer exist anywhere - they were upgraded to a special "sleeve kit" that comes with three seals ON the sleeve - two black, one orange.
Later engines came OEM with three seals per sleeve -but - two fit into grooves in the block and only one goes on the sleeve when installing.
These sleeves look similar to the first early sleeves except the bottoms are rounded "bullet nose" - whereas the first sleeves that used only one seal are square/flat ended.
Seems many people working at Deere dealerships are young enough that they've never seen the original leak-prone single seal sleeves; thus the confusion."
Do I have an older block that was made for only one black square cut o-ring at the bottom?
------------------------------------
"There has a been a lot of confusion over the years with sleeves in those engines - even with some Deere dealers. Shouldn't be, but there is.
You need to either go by the engine block #s, or pull apart and see what's inside. It goes like this.
All are wet-sleeves.
Early engines only had one seal per sleeve - a black o-ring that goes on the sleeve when you install it. These sleeves no longer exist anywhere - they were upgraded to a special "sleeve kit" that comes with three seals ON the sleeve - two black, one orange.
Later engines came OEM with three seals per sleeve -but - two fit into grooves in the block and only one goes on the sleeve when installing.
These sleeves look similar to the first early sleeves except the bottoms are rounded "bullet nose" - whereas the first sleeves that used only one seal are square/flat ended.
Seems many people working at Deere dealerships are young enough that they've never seen the original leak-prone single seal sleeves; thus the confusion."
You do have the older block designed for one packing. As you have read, the new sleeves are made with oring grooves on the outside of the sleeves that seal in the block. Hard to tell from the photos how deep the cavitation is in the block. If it only affects the area the original oring seals on and not lower, the new sleeves might seal on the old block. Still wouldn't be an ideal situation for sure. Did the sleeves you removed have only one oring? I have no experience with any epoxy repairs in that area. I have seen some blocks brazed or welded and the remachined to like new condition and that works well if done properly. The best option may be to upgrade to a newer block or find a complete engine in good running condition. The cost of machine work and overhaul parts can get expensive.
ovrszd
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I dont believe the sealing surface on the block was ever machined smooth. Maybe an expert can chime in and verify? If not, I'd take the pics to an engine shop for suggestions...
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Saw a 1020 engine on ebay that might be of interest John Deere 3 CILENDER Diesel Engine for 1 Tractor 3 Backhoe and more | eBay
Tractor 3 Backhoe and more | eBayI will be going about trying to fix the block with some type of 2-part epoxy like a JB weld product. I will just have to ensure cleanliness.
If you are unable to tell from the thumbnail photo how bad the cavitation is, please click on it, as it should show you a more detailed view.
There is one spot where the chunk missing is pretty substantial (cylinder 1) but it is no where near the o-ring seating surface.
But truly I am only concerned about the mating surface where the liner o-ring meets the block.
The liners that I extracted only had two o-rings????? One that was red, and another that was black.
Regardless, what I am confused about is where the new liners (with 3 o-rings) are supposed to seat against the block.
Is the block supposed to to have multiple steps or seats? Or is it just one seat that is machined into the block at the bottom?
If you are unable to tell from the thumbnail photo how bad the cavitation is, please click on it, as it should show you a more detailed view.
There is one spot where the chunk missing is pretty substantial (cylinder 1) but it is no where near the o-ring seating surface.
But truly I am only concerned about the mating surface where the liner o-ring meets the block.
The liners that I extracted only had two o-rings????? One that was red, and another that was black.
Regardless, what I am confused about is where the new liners (with 3 o-rings) are supposed to seat against the block.
Is the block supposed to to have multiple steps or seats? Or is it just one seat that is machined into the block at the bottom?
