Doitnow
Member
Suddenly my old MF left me stranded in the field yesterday in neutral range. It seems to move ok into high range but won't engage and will not slide up into low at all. Can anyone suggest what an easy fix could be?
1975 165 stuck in neutral range.. How to Unstuck it?
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jaxs
Elite Member
This isn't uncommon after transmission gets worn (no need for repair or rebuild,just be more deliberate in following shift pattern while changing gears).
The problem is usually alignment with the 1-2-3 shifter.
Remove the oil fill plug near shift lever and you will see gears that slide back and forward. Move handle while observing gears on right and left to see how handle is supposed to alighn with gears on either side. Us a long screwdriver to slide gears back into sync lever.
The problem is usually alignment with the 1-2-3 shifter.
Remove the oil fill plug near shift lever and you will see gears that slide back and forward. Move handle while observing gears on right and left to see how handle is supposed to alighn with gears on either side. Us a long screwdriver to slide gears back into sync lever.
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
I don't think it will be that simple if the problem is with the hi/lo portion. Whether it's a six speed or eight speed, the hi/lo shift rail is on the far right side and can't be accessed through the filler plug opening. Can you feel the detent when you shift from hi to neutral and back again? If so, that would indicate you're moving the rail, but maybe not the shift fork. If not, the problem might be with the set bolt that secures the shift gate to the rail.
Did this happen while moving or at some point when you stopped and changed gears?
Did this happen while moving or at some point when you stopped and changed gears?
newbury
Super Star Member
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Had similar happen twice on my M4700.
First time I repaired it by spraying lube on the shifter rods underneath and tapping.
Second time I went to do that and discovered a small branch had gotten wedged in the mechanism. I posted it here years ago but the search function is so broke and the attachments of my prior posts are lost in the shoebox of pictures.
/edit
Check all the linkages and lube if needed.
First time I repaired it by spraying lube on the shifter rods underneath and tapping.
Second time I went to do that and discovered a small branch had gotten wedged in the mechanism. I posted it here years ago but the search function is so broke and the attachments of my prior posts are lost in the shoebox of pictures.
/edit
Check all the linkages and lube if needed.
Cycledude
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Have you checked the oil level in the transmission lately ?
My 8n Ford wasn’t shifting properly and when I checked the oil level it was quite low so I added a couple quarts and it’s been working perfectly ever since.
My 8n Ford wasn’t shifting properly and when I checked the oil level it was quite low so I added a couple quarts and it’s been working perfectly ever since.
Dmacleo
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got the multi-power on that one?
Was off the tractor briefly so not changing gears. I could feel it trying to engage into high if that's what you mean by indent then yes.... it clicks in a little but not normal, a bit loose might describe the feel when moving from high to neutral. then a bit sloppy going into low but not moving forward in either range. I would have put the 1,2,3 gear in neutral when dismounting. Then when back on it and shifting all gears before trying to move forward with pto engaged the whole time.
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
If that's the case, it may be the issue has something to do with the end of the shift lever, the gate it fits into, or the bolt securing the to the rail. You might be able to remove the lever by first removing the roll pin holding it into the casting, but it probably won't gain much except a vantage point to see a little more. To actually do anything, you will need to remove the shift cover. That's a project.
jaxs
Elite Member
It gos without saying but do not insert fingers or tools into transmission case while engine is running. A little "rear wheel rocking" by hand might help while attempting to reposition gears with screwdriver.
jaxs
Elite Member
I've accessed hydraulics in rear case by removing top cover beneath seat and side cover behind right foot but where is this shift cover you speak of?
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Where is it? It's right on top of the transmission, under the steering column and all that. The casting with two shift levers sticking up and the transmission filler plug you mentioned earlier. You don't know where that is?
PatrickS2222
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- MF35, MF135, MF203 with loader.
I reckon first checking if something is jammed with the neutral start switch. It's directly forward of the small lever, beneath the throttle lever area.
Yes, in the cover plate is where the lever is located, but the selector rail itself moves reaches right to the rear of the main gearbox, to a planetary gear set for high and low range. It's directly beneath where the shift pattern is cast into the casings. IIRC you can access it by removing the hydraulic cover, but for repairs to the actual reduction set the tractor will need to be split at the joint behind the gearbox - an easy job.
Selecting high range engages a drive collar to "bypass" through the gearset, low range engages the gearset.
Hope this helps.
Yes, in the cover plate is where the lever is located, but the selector rail itself moves reaches right to the rear of the main gearbox, to a planetary gear set for high and low range. It's directly beneath where the shift pattern is cast into the casings. IIRC you can access it by removing the hydraulic cover, but for repairs to the actual reduction set the tractor will need to be split at the joint behind the gearbox - an easy job.
Selecting high range engages a drive collar to "bypass" through the gearset, low range engages the gearset.
Hope this helps.
Attachments
PatrickS2222
Gold Member
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- MF35, MF135, MF203 with loader.
Just remembered that I have some pics of the gearbox from a friend's FE35 when I renewed all the bearings in it. I found these, thinking they might give you an insight to what yours looks like - it's the same as this one. They aren't as specific as I expected, but they're the only ones I have!
Pic 1 shows the low range reduction unit on the rear of the fully-assembled gearbox.
Pic 2 shows the same minus the selector cover.
Pic 3 is merely a closer pic of the selector rods and gate.
In Pics 2 and 3, the range change selector is at the bottom in each pic.
The square heads of grub-screws secured tight with tie-wire hold the selector forks and gate sections in place. They engage in recesses in the rods.
Hope this helps.
Pic 1 shows the low range reduction unit on the rear of the fully-assembled gearbox.
Pic 2 shows the same minus the selector cover.
Pic 3 is merely a closer pic of the selector rods and gate.
In Pics 2 and 3, the range change selector is at the bottom in each pic.
The square heads of grub-screws secured tight with tie-wire hold the selector forks and gate sections in place. They engage in recesses in the rods.
Hope this helps.
Attachments
Last edited:
These photos are great, gives me an idea what I'll be looking at when I take the cover off which I'm about to do... I've attached a photo with the bolts out and ready to lift it off. Is there anything I should watch for as the shift mechanism disengages from the gears?
Attachments
These photos are great, gives me an idea what I'll be looking at when I take the cover off which I'm about to do... I've attached a photo with the bolts out and ready to lift it off. Is there anything I should watch for as the shift mechanism disengages from the gears?
