1975 165 stuck in neutral range.. How to Unstuck it?

[PatrickS2222]

Drain gearbox oil from both plugs - about 5-6 gallons.
Remember to put wedges in both sides at the front axle to prevent the front half tipping to one side after it's separated. You should only need about a foot of space to repair whatever is wrong.
Remember gasket, sealant, and cleaning of surfaces.
From my hazy memory:
Have the selector cover off when you are reassembling the halves, range in low, gearbox is neutral, this allows you to line up splined shafts by turning gearbox output shaft by accessing internal gears with a prybar, and, if PTO is live-drive, by turning PTO shaft with PTO engaged. Practise this before reassembling halves of tractor. You may need assistants there, and you WILL need a hard surface to roll jack on to move REAR HALF away.
Be careful.

 

[jaxs]

Drain gearbox oil from both plugs - about 5-6 gallons.
Remember to put wedges in both sides at the front axle to prevent the front half tipping to one side after it's separated. You should only need about a foot of space to repair whatever is wrong.
Remember gasket, sealant, and cleaning of surfaces.
From my hazy memory:
Have the selector cover off when you are reassembling the halves, range in low, gearbox is neutral, this allows you to line up splined shafts by turning gearbox output shaft by accessing internal gears with a prybar, and, if PTO is live-drive, by turning PTO shaft with PTO engaged. Practise this before reassembling halves of tractor. You may need assistants there, and you WILL need a hard surface to roll jack on to move REAR HALF away.
Be careful.

You overlooked to warn about smashing fingers.

 

[PatrickS2222]

You overlooked to warn about smashing fingers.

Haha, and a heap of other hazards, like having half a tractor slip off a jack and fall onto you!
But seriously, it could be a good idea to also mention he blocks F & R of both front wheels.
I do worry about people hurting themselves, but he seems capable.

 

[Doitnow]

Harry's explanation is all correct.
Can you post a picture from above of the selector rails? I expected to see one rail for H-L and 2 rails for the main gearbox, but isn't there another?
As far as a trial run, just temporarily refit the cover with 2 or 3 bolts and see how that H-L selector works.

Drain gearbox oil from both plugs - about 5-6 gallons.
Remember to put wedges in both sides at the front axle to prevent the front half tipping to one side after it's separated. You should only need about a foot to repair whatever is wrong.
Remember gasket, sealant, and cleaning of surfaces.
From my hazy memory:
Have the selector cover off when you are reassembling the halves, range in low, gearbox is neutral, this allows you to line up splined shafts by turning gearbox output shaft by accessing internal gears with a prybar, and by turning PTO shaft. You may need assistants there. Practise th

Haha, and a heap of other hazards, like having half a tractor slip off a jack and fall onto you!
But seriously, it could be a good idea to also mention he blocks F & R of both front wheels.
I do worry about people hurting themselves, but he seems capable.

I'm on it, time allowing, all those precautions fully noted. Might be awhile before I tackle it but I'll take no chances when I do. And keep you posted here at least once a week. I actually did not try adjusting anything inside the box at the rear of the hi-lo range before the split. is there anything there to look for before taking this plunge? Forgive me for not being able to follow or re-find all the previous posts if something was suggested already. Unless I really have to.. I'm new here and only have an old phone.. thanks so much again. Your explanations have been great but will need to hear them more than once sometimes. Richard

 

[PatrickS2222]

That's Ok, don't rush anything, much less taking any short-cuts.

Disconnect brake linkages, lighting cables, remove foot-rests, etc.

Look at the drive couplings of both transmission shafts so you can picture what needs to happen whilst reassembling halves.

A dry run in reassembling halves might be a good idea, prior to applying sealant to surfaces etc and fitting gasket.

Remember the small points:
A bottle jack supporting the front - and heavier - half of a sizeable tractor needs to be on solid, smooth and level concrete, otherwise it tilts a little ... then topples over, and you can bet it's toward you while you're close and not expecting this!
Metal-on-metal surfaces - if one is a jack - will slip very easily with the smallest coating of oil. Securely and tightly block both sides of both front wheels so that they cannot move. One slip could mean death.

This is a golden opportunity to wash as much foreign matter as possible from gearcase and rear housing; also wash out re-usable filter (should be equipped) on 3PL pump. Ensure this is done!

Main gearbox in neutral, familiarise one-self with which gear to turn, and have prybar at the ready, range (once repaired) in high, live PTO in gear and maybe 12" adjustable wrench or suitable 5/16" shank screwdriver available to help turn PTO shaft.

The rear half is lighter and is more movable because it also has large wheels and tyres to help you roll it. You need at least two more assistants because you need to keep the garage jack straight - this is why the concrete needs to be smooth and level - and co-ordinate movements with the assistant on each wheel.

Small points, but essential that they are attended to when required, especially when reassembling halves, such as halves straight, heights correct, splines of axle and PTO shafts are engaged etc.

Don't over-tighten bolts during reassembly!

By the looks of that oil ... renew it! SAE90; 80W90 gear oil; Universal Tractor Oil ... various suitable options. Around 6 US gallons. Also, check - or better still change - the oil in your hub reduction units - there is a fill-level plug. A lot of people don't realise they are separate compartments.

The plan is to have it all go smoothly and attain the best possible result.
As points spring to mind, I will add another post.

 

[PatrickS2222]

How's progress? Any news yet?

 

[Doitnow]

Patrick! Sorry I missed your last post there. I (we) pushed the tractor in the barn for the winter and just getting back to it now. I have it ready to 'split' on solid jacks and support and was checking the helpful notes here to get ready for a local repair guy to look at the inside once it's apart (and a few other smaller things he can probably advise on). Thanks to you all again for the guidance getting this far. Your timely and accurate advice saved me $$$.00 for sure! I'll let you know the result in a couple of weeks when hopefully it's moving again. Have a great summer!

 

[Doitnow]

So I called the repair guy who is too busy to come out for 2 weeks... and he advised that I can get to the problem inside by removing the seat and access the gears by removing the cover as seen in the photos. One set back is there is one bolt (you can see the underside-view photo) that will not clear the hydraulics and lever housing. The rest of them are no problem. Suggestions?

 

[Doitnow]

The question I have now is: remove the hydraulics housing to allow the bolt to come out? (It isn't obvious how to do this and if I do it, does this affect the hydraulic pressure in the lines?) Or... should I do the split as originally planned? Everything is drained and supported and all the bolts are loosened. Think I prefer the former except for that one bolt.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Most people would simply remove the obstructing valve body from the lift housing before attempting to raise the housing. Putting it back with that bolt dangling will be nearly impossible, what with trying to get the standpipe back into place and the vertical links in place for the control valve as well?

You would be far better off ( and do less damage) to just split the tractor rather than continue as you are. You haven't really studied the service manual, have you?