1978 Cadet 1650 Not Charging

[mark1]

Hey.check the plug that plugs into the regulator.there's a small regulator/rectifyer with a plastic plug and 2or 3 wires that plug into it.mine had a loose wire and got hot and no longer made good contact and of course stopped charging.when I fixed it all was well again.It's low on the side of the housing that's over the flywheel. let us know!

 

[ollie2009]

Just got back in from garage. Checked all wires and could not see anything apparent. Did a continuity check between the stator wires and good (very little resistance), actually did this through the plug at the rectifier(off the rectifier of course). Checked the resistance from the 3rd wire on the rectifier to the ign switch and good also. Any suggestions on how to verify the rectifier working with it removed from the tractor?

 

[The kid]

Just got back in from garage. Checked all wires and could not see anything apparent. Did a continuity check between the stator wires and good (very little resistance), actually did this through the plug at the rectifier(off the rectifier of course). Checked the resistance from the 3rd wire on the rectifier to the ign switch and good also. Any suggestions on how to verify the rectifier working with it removed from the tractor?

Clipped from member on smokestack.com.

Yes, You can bench test it with a Ohmmeter!

If it has three legs, two AC and one + as you indicate it would be a FULL WAVE rectifier! The + is POSitive DC output end of the rectifier!
Place ONE probe of the Meter (use the BLACK lead), (use RX1 scale) on the + and the RED probe to the AC terms, ONE at a time and compare the readings! They should read the same on the Ohms scale, either infinity (max) or both with same lower readings! Main thing is they both read the same as you leave the Black probe on the + term. Now reverse the probes (RED probe to pos+) and read as before, leaving the red probe on the + and the black to each AC term. The reading should be the same! When you reverse the red and black probes to take the readings if a or the readings stay low the or a diode is shorted! If the or A reading stays high their is a open! (their are two diodes in the epoxy with the diodes CATHODES+ tied together at the + terminal and each individual diode anode at the AC terminal! "

When reinstalling the rectifier. Make sure you secure the ground wire as it was. It won't work without the ground. I verified mine was bad with this procedure. To properly verify the stator the engine needs to be running to check for 28v AC across the AC terminals. The stator integrity could be damaged and the wire may not measure as open.

 

[ollie2009]

Hey Kid,
Back again from the garage, and just read your post. Thanks for the advice.
This afternoon I found a troubleshooting chart for my 1650 Cadet with a 15Amp stator circuit. For anyone else who may look at this thread here is the info it gives: 1). Remove connector from regulator (rectifier). Start and run engine at 3600 RPM, and measure the AC voltage across the stator wires. If the voltage is 28V or more the rectifier/regulator is faulty. If voltage is less then 28V problem probably in Stator. In my case I was gettin 32V, so Stator is Good, issue with the Rectifier.
2) you can check the Stator using an ohm meter with the engine NOT running. if the resistance is 0.1 / 0.2 ohms then the stator is OK. If resistance is infinity then stator is faulty. 3). Check resistance from each stator wire (one at at time) to ground. The resisitance should be infinity, if not the stator is shorted and is faulty.

Thanks to everyone who helped me out. Now I just have to find a supplier for an inexpensive unit. I'm from Canada, and here they want $76.00 then add anothe 13% for tax! Any one know of a good place to get one in the US (I live in Eastern Ontario on the Northern NY border)

 

[The kid]

Hey Kid,
Back again from the garage, and just read your post. Thanks for the advice.
This afternoon I found a troubleshooting chart for my 1650 Cadet with a 15Amp stator circuit. For anyone else who may look at this thread here is the info it gives: 1). Remove connector from regulator (rectifier). Start and run engine at 3600 RPM, and measure the AC voltage across the stator wires. If the voltage is 28V or more the rectifier/regulator is faulty. If voltage is less then 28V problem probably in Stator. In my case I was gettin 32V, so Stator is Good, issue with the Rectifier.
2) you can check the Stator using an ohm meter with the engine NOT running. if the resistance is 0.1 / 0.2 ohms then the stator is OK. If resistance is infinity then stator is faulty. 3). Check resistance from each stator wire (one at at time) to ground. The resisitance should be infinity, if not the stator is shorted and is faulty.

Thanks to everyone who helped me out. Now I just have to find a supplier for an inexpensive unit. I'm from Canada, and here they want $76.00 then add anothe 13% for tax! Any one know of a good place to get one in the US (I live in Eastern Ontario on the Northern NY border)

They are plentiful on ebay. Anywhere from $15 - $40. That's where I bought mine. Good luck and glad the repair won't be too pricy. -kid