1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working

   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #11  
jpilk99, I think you'll find that many folks on this forum are TOP NOTCH guys and know volumes of things from tractor repair to making jerky. JC-jetro is such a member and he has helped me tremendously. Why, he's the type to take a tractor down TOP to BOTTOM just to see how clean the insides are. HA!!!! I wish I had more of that know-how and curiosity.

Now, getting back to the topic/thread: had you been a bit rough on the 1700? I have one as well and absolutely LOVE it. I had a bit of a problem with my radiator steaming but that has been about the extent of it.................but I am rough on equipment. I say all of this cuz I have made my lil' 1700 work like a dog moving brushpiles and such and noticed that I would OFTEN go from reverse to forward quickly to get the job done. Sometimes, my gears would seem to stick but that was only because I was not giving it time and would even fail to engage the clutch fully. I'm sure this is not your problem since you guys have pretty much pin-pointed the culprit but I just wanted to know if I should expect the same problems due to my bad shifting habits. ANYONE?
Oh.....by the way, JC-jetro, I solved the problem with the steaming radiator (as you well know) and have enjoyed using my 1700 for over a year now BUT I did notice a slight GREEN trickle of water coming from the top end of my motor two weeks ago while using the finishing mower on the yard. I lucked up and saw this after getting down to move something out of my way. Other than that evidence of a problem, I have NEVER had water in oil or oil in water. I haven't used the thing since and suspect that I need to take the top off and replace a gasket..................what say you, Mr. JC-jetro? As you recall, I'm nowhere near your level of expertise but, as you may recall, I did completely tear my 42" riding lawn more down to unfreeze the motor over 20 years ago. HA! I'm not sure if I still have that sort of gumption now or not. At 46, I know that I don't even have a curiousity of how things work anymore (just as long as they work well for me). HA! I'm certainly nothing like you......the one who tears down their transmission just to see how that particular design works. HA!!!!! I'll PM you if you prefer. May do that anyway just to check on you and yours. ~Michael


Hey Michael,

How do? been so dang busy at work that have not had a chance to come here for looksey much. Before you go deep, let's look the simpler things with your tractor. Can you snap pic of where you see tell tale sign of green water? is it on radiator top or valve cover housing? there is a overflow from the radiator cap that has a rubber hose to safely discharge, do you see flow there? I open the radiator cap, run the engine so it would get warm some ( to open the T_stat) and try to observe flow in the radiator. Trying to see if you have full flow. What happens with the temp needle when you see coolant oozing out? so you're sure you are no mixing oil and coolant, right? report back and hopefully we can sort it out.

JC,:)
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #12  
It's dark now but I'll do that tomorrow. The leak I recently noticed and had never seen till now is coming from the very top of the engine (very top). I assumed it is some sort of a gasket BUT it is NOT having any oil in water and/or water in oil......positive on that. Now when you and I last talked about our 1700's you and I had done the same thing with an overflow that had never been there (poor design on the manufacturer's side). Anyway, the tractor did fine after that but my rubber hose going to the overflow did come loose and the week after that is when I noticed the small but steady leak. As with when I first bought the tractor, I checked the radiator flow for small or large bubbles and saw none but I'll check again. It'd break my heart to see that but we are talking about a 30+ year old tractor that has probably been worked hard. I know I've worked it pretty hard and have had a lot of fun putting in culverts, food plots, clearing brush piles and smoothing drive-ways. In keeping with the topic/thread, you may also wish to address my mention of improper shifting and such. Thought I'd get a response from the author on that one.

As for the Bodock tree.....it is also known as Bodark, Osage Orange, Horse Apple, Hedge Apple (which may be the hedge you mentioned having). I do know that Kansas has a good many of them. Texas and Arkansas have a good many as well but the further North and NW you go the better the chances. Anyway, I have a good stand of Black or Honey Locust (which make OUTSTANDING fence posts) but Bodock is not only good for that but they are allegedly good for deterring mosquito and/or spiders.
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #13  
Red,

I've got bunch of red osage. they burn so hot and very dense wood. I'll research on saving the seed of the oranges and will send as much as you want. I've got plenty of it to. I wondered if it is bit squirting from where the rubber hose connect to radiator.

JC,
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #14  
Red,

I've got bunch of red osage. they burn so hot and very dense wood. I'll research on saving the seed of the oranges and will send as much as you want. I've got plenty of it to. I wondered if it is bit squirting from where the rubber hose connect to radiator.

JC,
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #15  
If there is a lot of moisture as in humidity it is possible the clutch has stuck to the flywheel. It happens here on the Gulf Coast all of the time. The tractors came with a block of wood or a plastic block on a string to block the pedal down when the tractor was not used for a while. At the dealership where I worked, We had to keep blocks under all of the new tractors. It seems they were worse than older (used) clutches. Block the clutch down, put the tractor in High range 4th gear and while looking in the inspection hole try to rock the tractor back and forth. Or with the engine off, have some pull you with the clutch down in high gear and tap the brakes while they are pulling you. It should come loose.
Gary
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #16  
OK.....I get it, JC-jetro. You were simply making a play on words cuz I researched RED Osage and didn't find anything on the subject regarding hedge trees. HA!

Now for the topic: TRMECHAPT, that was very interesting about the tractors coming with a block of wood. This Mississippi moister is rough on most anything! HA!!! Speaking of this area......glad to meet a fellow Southerner. What part of the Gulf do you reside? I'm between Tupelo and Memphis in a lil' town called Ripley.
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #17  
Just Northwest of Gulfport a few miles.
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #18  
OK.....I thought you may be near Ocean Springs, MS where I have an Uncle, a cousin and her family of five. They lived in Biloxi for several years but re-located to the country 10 years ago or so and now have horses and the entire nine yards. HA!!!

Glad to meet a fellow Mississippian (whether in person or on the WWW). Good day to you sir!!! It is absolutely lovely here on the NE end of the State.
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Hi all. thank you for your guidance etc. JC-jetro, I read that other post and not sure it's the same situation as me. My 1700 was working fine, then stopped. I'm not even sure what to check first? Do I need to jack it up all the way off the ground like the other post suggests? It's on a hill right now, kinda stuck...
 
   / 1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working #20  
You say "stuck", how stuck? I would adjust the clutch for minimum freeplay, put it in gear, depress the clutch, and try to start the tractor. If you can start without movement then get it "unstuck." If the tractor tries to move because it is in gear even with the clutch depressed, then you need another tractor to get it unstuck and work on repairing/change the clutch.
 

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