1983 Ford 1700 - Clutch stopped working

[JC-jetro]

Hopefully this helps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEg5S1GJFl8

Yup, unfortunately your clutch is slipping. There can be two reasons for it. Either the clutch is always dispensed because of too tight of adjustment such as the pedal is always in. Second reason is loosing disk thickness to the point that there is slippage between pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel. All I see leads to that unless anyone else see it differently here. Before you decide to split I would try to loosen the clutch adjustment and try to turn the wheels with both gear and range engaged. if you can not turn the wheel adjustment is all you need most likely. if it turns freely then it is time for a new clutch.

JC

 

[jpilk99]

Thanks so much, JC. I think it is the latter. The pedal was not over-tight in its adjustment. Just to be sure, I'll back it off a bit, but, I believe it had ample play.

This is likely a ridiculous question, but, here goes anyhow: What's involved in putting in a new clutch? I assume it's a chore & a half...

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks so much, JC. I think it is the latter. The pedal was not over-tight in its adjustment. Just to be sure, I'll back it off a bit, but, I believe it had ample play.

This is likely a ridiculous question, but, here goes anyhow: What's involved in putting in a new clutch? I assume it's a chore & a half...

jay,

I agree with your statement "This is likely a ridiculous question", Yep it is chore and half and then some. For starter You need to take the loader off again, I'm sure you'll enjoy that. Search the forum and you'll find a lot of reference to the subject matter. There is an excellent thread started by on one of the guys that cover a lot of stuff but you'll end up seeing some good picture of the clutch. I also have a link to fleebay for a replacement for about $180 that you can not go wrong on that. Other than normal tools, engine hoist, floor jack, jack stand you will not need any thing special. If you were able to take the loader off and put it back on I'm sure doing a clutch job is very doable.

JC,



Ford Tractor Clutch Kit 1310 1320 1500 1510 1600 1620 1700 1710 1715 1925 TC29 | eBay


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ng/137188-1700-engine-rebuild.html?highlight=

 

[jpilk99]

Hi JC,

I'm about to start in on this project of splitting the tractor. At a high level, do you have a step by step outline you can think of. I'm figuring:

Disconnect loader & frame; support it in place with 2x6s.
Support front of half of machine, like jack it up and put a big fat section of wood/stump under it.
Disconnect everything that connects front half to back half; hydro lines, clutch linkage, steering linkage, etc.
Put a section of plywood under middle of rear half of tractor to, once jacked up and separated from front, can roll it back. (Doing this in my driveway - not perfectly smooth asphalt; grindings - old asphalt ground up. Solid/durable, not smooth like most "hot top" driveways).
Disconnect front from back, and separate....

Not sure when I might employ my engine hoist. Is there a step in here that you usually use one?

Thanks again; SO MUCH.

Jay

 

[jpilk99]

BIG QUESTION: (How's your Crystal Ball workin' these days?).

I'm standing around the tractor contemplating what awaits. This will be a BIG JOB just to get to the clutch. Then to remove/install clutch (which I've never done). THEN, put it all back together....... What if I did something wrong (here's where the crystal ball part comes in) and have to take it all back apart and start trouble shooting? I obviously can't, immediately after putting the new clutch in, start 'er up and test the clutch. Only way, I think, to test the new clutch - to make sure I did it correctly - is to recouple the front & back halves completely and then start it and test it. Right?

Seems pretty risky.

Unless installing a new clutch, (once you're in there), is like changing a lightbulb; next to nothing to screw up... Just take off the old, bolt in the new and yer done?!

I don't have enough money today to bring it to a dealer, (I assume it will be likely $1,000 repair), but may need to wait a few months until I can save up the money. I also don't really have 10 hours to just throw away if I monkey up the installation of the new clutch.

So. What is your gut reaction to my quandary? Obviously, you don't know my "repairman skills" or any of that. I actually think I'm far above average, but, even a pretty good 'driveway mechanic' could run into something and end up wasting a ton of time.

I look forward to your opinion. Thank you!

Jay

 

[JC-jetro]

Hi JC,

I'm about to start in on this project of splitting the tractor. At a high level, do you have a step by step outline you can think of. I'm figuring:

Disconnect loader & frame; support it in place with 2x6s.
Support front of half of machine, like jack it up and put a big fat section of wood/stump under it.
Disconnect everything that connects front half to back half; hydro lines, clutch linkage, steering linkage, etc.
Put a section of plywood under middle of rear half of tractor to, once jacked up and separated from front, can roll it back. (Doing this in my driveway - not perfectly smooth asphalt; grindings - old asphalt ground up. Solid/durable, not smooth like most "hot top" driveways).
Disconnect front from back, and separate....

Not sure when I might employ my engine hoist. Is there a step in here that you usually use one?

Thanks again; SO MUCH.

Jay

Well Jay, May the force be with you !! all you said above sounds good. Now I have done several clutch jobs on FW drive vehicles of my kids and that is one heck of pain. I have not done it on my tractor but I consider clutch replacement on a small tractor like Ford 1700 to be much easier as you have ample room to work around without being Houdini himself. I have looked at how I would have done on my tractor if I needed to as follow.

- Either front or rear need to be pulled away to separate. I think front is the only logical way to do it.
-it's best to keep rear steady and perfectly level as you can make it. I would hang something in the back. I would use carry all and set it on the ground with some weigh on it to keep the front from stooping low.
I would turn rate of drop lever to closed position so oil is trapped in the lift cylinder so 3 point would stay on intended position no matter what you do with the lift handle or separating hyd lines.
- reason for engine hoist is to give accurate adjustment of raising or lowering front to line up bolts on the bell housing. That can be achieved with a floor jack, but I feel engine hoist is a lot safer, as the back of the engine compartment want to drop because of the center of gravity is more toward the back. By having engine hoist I can only have one connection to keep the engine at the level I need. putting safety block is fine , but you need to be able to move the front at least 12" back and forth to take the clutch off the flywheel and then have to line up with the splines and push the front side toward the bell housing.
-use rubber wheel chocks if you have.

Jc,

 

[JC-jetro]

BIG QUESTION: (How's your Crystal Ball workin' these days?).

I'm standing around the tractor contemplating what awaits. This will be a BIG JOB just to get to the clutch. Then to remove/install clutch (which I've never done). THEN, put it all back together....... What if I did something wrong (here's where the crystal ball part comes in) and have to take it all back apart and start trouble shooting? I obviously can't, immediately after putting the new clutch in, start 'er up and test the clutch. Only way, I think, to test the new clutch - to make sure I did it correctly - is to recouple the front & back halves completely and then start it and test it. Right?

Seems pretty risky.

Unless installing a new clutch, (once you're in there), is like changing a lightbulb; next to nothing to screw up... Just take off the old, bolt in the new and yer done?!

I don't have enough money today to bring it to a dealer, (I assume it will be likely $1,000 repair), but may need to wait a few months until I can save up the money. I also don't really have 10 hours to just throw away if I monkey up the installation of the new clutch.


So. What is your gut reaction to my quandary? Obviously, you don't know my "repairman skills" or any of that. I actually think I'm far above average, but, even a pretty good 'driveway mechanic' could run into something and end up wasting a ton of time.

I look forward to your opinion. Thank you!

Jay

Jay, like I said before if you can successfully take the loader off and put it back on without maiming yourself then you have the mechanical aptitude. Look at my other post on directions. I tell you it will take more than 10 hrs if it is you first time. Any clutch I have done was at least two day job or two weekends. I did it in the garage where i had room, doing it outside without adequate protection from weather can be difficult. $1000 is not huge amount of money for the work. I doubt it would take more than 6-7 hrs top for a well equipped shop ans at about $75/ hr labor cost it already would be around 600-700 plus 200 for material. OEM part will be more expensive. I time was not an issue and had a garage/barn I'd do it a few hrs at a time and gradually finish it specially if it is a winter project and you don't need your tractor. By the way , I consider my labor free for my own project... I could never afford myself if I had to pay me prevailing wages.

JC,

 

[jpilk99]

Okay. Couple of questions then based on your response:

What do you mean, "hang something in the back"? As well, "I would use carry all"? Just don't know what you mean.
Not sure I understand the next statement either, "I would turn rate of drop lever to closed"? The hydro control that lifts/drops loader? How do I put it in a "closed" position?

If I move the front of the tractor forward... I'm not certain how I can pull that off with my driveway setup. Especially with the engine hoist (which is actually an engine-lift). The lift will have to slide in from the side, middle of tractor. With that, I won't be able to move the front of the tractor. I don't have a garage with an "over head" engine lift...

Last question: If I did have a way to move the front of the tractor away from the rear, this must obviously assume that I took the loader off ...and pulled it away from the tractor; enough to be able to move the front of the tractor forward after split; right? Not sure how I'd do that.

 

[JC-jetro]

What do you mean, "hang something in the back"? As well, "I would use carry all"? Just don't know what you mean.
What I mean is to put counter weight on the rear using carry all and some weight. This would guarantee the front from doing a teeter. now this is with the assumption of wanting rear 1/2 steady and move front 1/2 to separate.


Not sure I understand the next statement either, "I would turn rate of drop lever to closed"? The hydro control that lifts/drops loader? How do I put it in a "closed" position?
If you break the hyd line ( that is a must do), and if you manipulate the lift arm then you would drain the oil from the lift cylinder housing and doing so the lift arm will go limp and tractor might shift to find equilibrium, by closing the rate of drop (toward turtle) the flow out of cylinder is blocked and 3 point arms would not go limp, hence steady rear 1/2 of tractor.





If I move the front of the tractor forward... I'm not certain how I can pull that off with my driveway setup. Especially with the engine hoist (which is actually an engine-lift). The lift will have to slide in from the side, middle of tractor. With that, I won't be able to move the front of the tractor. I don't have a garage with an "over head" engine lift...
That is why I said it is really essential for this work to be done on flat ground. How would yo push the tractor up the incline to make both ends meet? with the engine hoist on flat ground you can only keep the back f the engine up and move forward and backward much easier as you can walk the engine hoist on wheels, that is the advantage of engine hoist. That can be done with floor jack also but not as safely in my opinion. doing it on on incline is not advisable

Last question: If I did have a way to move the front of the tractor away from the rear, this must obviously assume that I took the loader off ...and pulled it away from the tractor; enough to be able to move the front of the tractor forward after split; right? Not sure how I'd do that

your loader is connected to your bell housing so taking the loader off is a must. If loader was contacted to the engine like my Kubota then I's consider to move back the 1/2 rear of tractor rather than front. Any way you do it , can't do it safely on an incline

 

[jpilk99]

Not sure where I gave you the impression the tractor was NOT on flat ground. It is.

My driveway is a rough surface, not perfect smooth pavement, so moving is going to be a challenge.

I know I need to take the loader off - but I'm not sure how I'll get it away from the tractor so that I can, once split, I can roll the front of the tractor away from back half.

I now understand what you mean about putting a weight in the rear of the back of the tractor.

My engine lift is like this one: Amazon.com: Premium Steel 3 Ton 6000 LB Heavy Duty Engine Hoist Cherry Picker Shop Crane: Everything Else . It will certainly lift the rear section of the front half of the tractor, but, I will be coming at the tractor from the side, with the legs sliding under the tractor. I don't see any way possible, once it's there and holding up the rear of the front section ...how I can then roll the front of the tractor away from the back.

Once again, I don't understand how to close the 'rate of drop' by "by closing the rate of drop (toward turtle) ". What is the "toward turtle"? Do you mean throttle? The throttle is the little arm that comes out of the center of the steering wheel. The hydro controls are to the right of the throttle and only go up and down (I believe). Don't know how I'd put the up/down control to the left. (pretty confused on this one - sorry!).