2 bottom plow question

[PineRidge]

If anyone is interested I can furnish plow set up instructions that came from Ford for use with Dearborn plows. I believe this info dates from around the 40s or so. Some of this set up info I am sure can be carried over to the new plows as well. If there is any interest send me a PM .

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue"> the cost of repairs could go a long way towards a more reliable newer model </font>

The thing is, That the new plows sold today at $275 to $475 can never hold a candle to the older plows. There is no reason that a older plow with replacable points,shins,moldboards and landslides could not last for a hundred years (or longer) if properly maintained. --Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *Over 1000 New and Refurbished Implements in Stock*

 

[JerryG]

I know I have said this before but Ken is right again. More than likely the old plow, even if it is worn out will out plow the new one. The new ones are just made to look like plows. They can't be adjusted right, nor are they made to be.

 

[Egon]

Rimmer:

If you work real hard at it you can turn ploughing into a very difficult job.

Egon

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Around here, you can pick up a 2 bottom fergusson, ford or deere for around $200-$250. )</font> Where IS around here Logan? thanks, John

 

[beenthere]

Hopefully all will listen to Ken Sweet and you, as you are right on with the plows. New ones that I have looked at have no way to be adjusted, unless maybe a cutting torch and welder are considered. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Plowing with a well adjusted plow is very satisfying but if just slightly out of adjustment (or with a rusty moldboard that wont scour clean, or plow tips that are worn off), it is a torturing event. I would second the opinions that the older plows tuned up and adjusted are the way to go, and will (can) give satisfying results.

Adjusting a plow can be learned by trial and error, and some mechanical skills thrown in. Some good drawings and instructions can be helpful too.

A plow that is rusty needs to be used in sandy soil to get the rust off and then hope the shine comes back without too much pitting. The ol black clay dirt in Iowa was not very forgiving to a plow that was not perfectly shined and polished. Grease them every night or make a lot of jumps off the tractor to scrape them clean, and try again.

 

[MMILLER]

I was wandering if anybody could give me any input on an old trailer plow with rollover. Are thes as good as 3 point for limited use. I can pick up a set 4 about $10 and it has new cutters plus spares. This is a 2 bottom unit that I would use behind my TC40 .

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( rolling lanslide )</font>

Yes, it is indeed.. And mine is a dearborn plow.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. having had mine apart in pieces.. there was no structural damage to it.. just replaceable items were worn.. like landslide.. plowbolts.. moldboards.. etc..

Another big difference on plowing.. those old tractor.. like my ford 2n, 8n, and NAA had draft hydraulics on the 3pt.. that made for an awesome plow setup.. especially if you encountered underground stoppages.. like rocks and stumps.. as the draft sensing hyds lifted the plow over the stoppage..

A newer non draft machine might pretzle a new sheet-metal plow.. if your not carefull.

Soundguy

 

[djradz]

I have a Fergeson-Sherman, made in Dearborn, MI and have a question. When looking at the plow from the tractor-end looking back and perfectly in line with it, is there some distance, like an inch or two, of space/gap from where one plowshare/moldboard ends and the second one starts. If I was plowing only an inch or so deep, I think I leave a stripe, but when down 8-12 inches, that little thin piece just comes right along with the second row flip. Does yours seem to have this little gap, or does the second one begin where the first one ends, or is there even some overlap?