2320 vs. 2520 - worth the difference?

   / 2320 vs. 2520 - worth the difference? #31  
As a 2520 owner, here's my thoughts. I could argue that there should be an advantage for the 2520/2720 over the 2320 when dragging an implement. This difference comes from the weight, tire size, and the larger transmission shared by the 2520 and 2720. But I believe the extra horsepower of the 2720 offers no advantage in this area.

When I drag my 5 foot blade behind my 2520, in clay soil with the blade facing forward, I can stall the tractor if I drop the blade too aggressively. By "stall", I'm not talking about the engine, but the limits of what the pressure relief system in the transmission will let me do. It won't let me break the transmission, at least not easily.

Since the 2520 and the 2720 have the same transmission, I'd expect the same limits on how far you can push it until it just won't pull any more. The extra horsepower of the 2720 would be most useful for PTO driven attachments. If you were looking at a tiller, I could argue for the 2720.
Now that is interesting. I think I had a similar issue with our 2320 and just shrugged it off as "what the heck was that all about". Tractor would not move forward and the tires would not spin, I had the tractor in 4WD and had excellent traction trying to load the front bucket from a pile of hard packed clay/soil with about 650 lbs of weight hanging off the back.
 
   / 2320 vs. 2520 - worth the difference? #32  
Yep, that happens on my 2520 also. Kinda annoying when you are really trying to work it hard with the wheels.
 
   / 2320 vs. 2520 - worth the difference? #33  
...... the pedals stick when depressed either direction and it's more than a little disconcerting to try to approach an obstacle or predict stopping by backing off the throttle, only to keep going at speed.......

My '10 BX2360 started doing this at 30 hours . I thought it wasn't
a BX##60 issue , and was annoyed/wondered if it was a Kubota SCUT
trait . Think I solved it by flushing out all the moly-grease on the
offending zerk with lithium grease . I reckon the remaining solids of
moly were filling the zerk-space and increasing the return time ..........
It's been OK for the 15 hours since I went mad with the lithium gun .
Without a doubt it's frightening to have to hit the brake when it keeps
going . Came within 2" of going straight in the pond ( 9' deep and the
front tires on that brown embankment ) and that was when I decided
to flush the zerk. Hope you didn't lose too much on the change of colour:thumbsup:
 

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   / 2320 vs. 2520 - worth the difference? #34  
My '10 BX2360 started doing this at 30 hours . I thought it wasn't
a BX##60 issue , and was annoyed/wondered if it was a Kubota SCUT
trait . Think I solved it by flushing out all the moly-grease on the
offending zerk with lithium grease . I reckon the remaining solids of
moly were filling the zerk-space and increasing the return time ..........

It's been OK for the 15 hours since I went mad with the lithium gun .
Without a doubt it's frightening to have to hit the brake when it keeps
going . Came within 2" of going straight in the pond ( 9' deep and the
front tires on that brown embankment ) and that was when I decided
to flush the zerk. Hope you didn't lose too much on the change of colour:thumbsup:

I have the same problem and use molly grease on that fitting. I am going to give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the tip.
 
   / 2320 vs. 2520 - worth the difference?
  • Thread Starter
#35  
OrangeRidge - wow! What a spot! The drop-off that I nearly went down was an embankment also about 9' in grade difference. But, not nearly as attractive as your pond. Instead of getting wet or worse, drowning, I would have ended up in a nice big patch of poison ivy.
 

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