3 Point Attachment Switching not enjoying.

beersngars · May 3, 2012

Had a Carters and liked it. Switched to a Speeco Quick Hitch and love it. :thumbsup: The Carters is just laying on my work bench and I may part with it. Shoot me a PM if interested.

CompactTractorFan · May 3, 2012

texasjohn said:
get a 3 to 5 lb hammer....makes a big difference sometimes....keep it in your tool box.

I have a dead-blow hammer for just this purpose...

Johndeere3720 · May 3, 2012

I bought my first imatch for use on my grandpa's tractor. After that, I got another, and another, and another. Eventually sold two of them and i have one from the Yanmar I sold that I will modify for use on my skid steer. I absolutely love the imatch, best implement I have veer bought, no need for a hammer or having to wrestle with your implement, plus it makes moving an implement out of the way a few second chore. :thumbsup:

jenkinsph · May 3, 2012

Noodlez914 said:
Ok, did my first change out today of attachments (Box Blade to 3 Pt Receiver Hitch). Just a quick briefing I am new to SCUT'S and 3point attachments! Ok is it really as much as a pain as I just experienced? I figured you pull the pins drive off attach the next. Seems like you have to twist turn and maneuver your attachment to get weight off of the pins. Am I missing any tricks? Should I be running out for this iMatch system? Doing all kinds of stuff around the house. I want to be able to be box scraping, be done with that, throw the 3 point receiver hitch on to trailer stuff around the property, quickly switch over to a heavy ballast to start moving boulders.

Just not looking to break down a schedule on when I am doing what because that attachments aren't as easy to get off as I thought. And I could see myself saying "Man I'm not dealing with switching out attachments, I'll do that next week."

I meant to ask you earlier if the attachments you have now are IMatch compatible? If so I would go that route. I would then by IMatch compatible implements in the future too. You can get the IMatch with auto connect for the pto too.

For years I used the 4x4, pinchbar and sledge hammer to attach implements. I am past that now, with roughly 20+ 3PH implements I don't hesitate to swap them out now.

Noodlez914 · May 4, 2012

jenkinsph said:
I meant to ask you earlier if the attachments you have now are IMatch compatible? If so I would go that route. I would then by IMatch compatible implements in the future too. You can get the IMatch with auto connect for the pto too.

For years I used the 4x4, pinchbar and sledge hammer to attach implements. I am past that now, with roughly 20+ 3PH implements I don't hesitate to swap them out now.

My Ballast Box is definitely iMatch compatible. My Box Blade was purchased from Deere (Frontier Brand). And my receiver hitch was purchased from Ebay. I think they would all work. I definitely have to invest in imatch or a compatible product. I'm not dealing with turning attachment switch outs into hour long chores.

ustmd · May 4, 2012

All this is good advice.

The only thing I can add is that like many things in life, when hooking up the 3 pt, some days you get the bear and some days the bear gets you.

vjcoppola · May 4, 2012

I find that using your head more and your back less is important. I will often change implements several times a day without a problem. If you have a cement floor the casters that a few have mentioned makes sense. If not or you are a cheapskate, like me, just drop your implement on 4x4 or 2x4 sleepers and even a heavy implement can be bumped a bit. Sometimes a long prybar helps. Learning to back up straight and centered is the main thing.

If you are having trouble removing the lift arms from an implement it's usually the top link that needs adjusting. Once it's off there should be no pressure on the lift arms

For me the pto coupling is more annoying than the hitch. Using a little grease makes it easier.

Noodlez914 · May 4, 2012

vjcoppola said:
I find that using your head more and your back less is important. I will often change implements several times a day without a problem. If you have a cement floor the casters that a few have mentioned makes sense. If not or you are a cheapskate, like me, just drop your implement on 4x4 or 2x4 sleepers and even a heavy implement can be bumped a bit. Sometimes a long prybar helps. Learning to back up straight and centered is the main thing.

If you are having trouble removing the lift arms from an implement it's usually the top link that needs adjusting. Once it's off there should be no pressure on the lift arms

For me the pto coupling is more annoying than the hitch. Using a little grease makes it easier.

I gotta tell ya, I did notice after my first attempt and finally getting everything off, my top arm was adjusted outwards way more than it should have been. Came from the dealer with the box blade on. Thought maybe there was a reason the top was pushed out more, but beginning to believe that they hooked it up wrong? Realized when sitting flat and trying to remove everything the top bar was the culprit in causing so much awkward pressure on the bottom pins.

RoyJackson · May 4, 2012

vjcoppola said:
If you are having trouble removing the lift arms from an implement it's usually the top link that needs adjusting. Once it's off there should be no pressure on the lift arms.

(Bolded phrase) Very true...
And another thing is the adjustable lower link (used for Up/Down leveling). Even with the top link loose or disconnected, the lower links can be bound by the adjustable link putting tension on the implement.
So, if one is not using a Quick Hitch or Pat's (or others), make sure everything is loose before trying to remove (or attach) an implement.